LUXURY

鐘錶慈善盛事 Only Watch Charity Auction

Only Watch慈善拍賣是鐘錶產業罕有的慈善盛事,自2005年由摩納哥肌肉萎縮症防治協會首度發後,連續十多年來每兩年舉辦一次

Only Watch慈善拍賣是鐘錶產業罕有的慈善盛事,自2005年由摩納哥肌肉萎縮症防治協會首度發後,連續十多年來每兩年舉辦一次,號召各鐘錶品牌共襄盛舉,所捐出的獨一無二款式最終將在日內瓦拍賣,並全數捐出為杜氏肌肉萎縮症研究募集資金。

The Only Watch charity auction is a rare fundraiser event in the watch industry. Since 2005 first organized by the Monegasque Association against muscular dystrophy, the biennial fundraiser event has continued for over a decade by inviting various world-renowned watch brands to donate their unique watches for auction in Geneva. The funds raised will all be donated to the Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy Research Fund.

每兩年一次的Only Watch慈善拍賣從2005年首度舉辦至今,今年已邁入第八屆。本屆共襄盛舉參與的品牌也是歷年各屆之最,共有52個品牌投入此活動,每一個鐘錶品牌不僅專為這一活動打造出世上唯一的一只錶款,還不計成本將錶款捐出拍賣,所拍得的金額全數捐出做慈善之用。本次參與的52只錶款將於11月9日在日內瓦由佳士得舉行公開拍賣,而在拍賣會開拍前,所有錶款將會在全球幾個城市巡展,讓對收藏孤品錶款又希望投入公益的愛錶者,可以在競拍前親自近距離鑑賞這些珍稀錶款。

The Only Watch fundraiser was first organized in 2005, and this year will be its 8th auction. This number of brands involved in this year’s fundraising auction is the highest for all times. A total of 52 of the finest watch manufacturers joined the event, and each of the watch brands crafted a unique luxury timepiece specifically designed for the event. The watches and the funds raised will be fully donated for charity purposes. The 52 luxury timepieces will be auctioned in Genoa on November 9th by Christie’s. Before the auction begins, the luxury watches involved in the auction will be showcased in various cities for collectors and watch lovers who want to participate in charity to appreciate these unique luxury timepieces.

難得一見天青湖水藍

Only Watch以獨一無二的錶款為訴求,許多愛錶人士都相當期待看到各品牌會推出哪些市面看不到也買不到的Only Watch孤品款式,今年Only Watch以天青藍為主題顏色,也因此部分響應慈善的品牌更是為了切合主題而推出了難得使用的天青藍Only Watch款式,例如過去形象硬朗以獨立製錶師出身的Speak-Marin,便推出了天青藍面盤的計時碼錶,新興前衛風格的Rebellion也一改品牌向來機械感十足的冷酷樣貌,推出鏤空面盤裝飾天青藍錶橋以及同色相膠錶帶的Only watch的獨一錶款。Blancpain寶鉑則是為自家標誌性潛水錶五十噚的時標與指針上妝點一抹淡淡的天青藍;Zenith則適逢旗下經典的El Primero高振頻計時碼錶問世50週年,推出唯一一只30分鐘計時盤為天青藍的復刻款式,錶帶亦搭配了相同的淡藍色縫線。以製造彩蛋知名的俄國王室御用珠寶品牌FABERGé,今年推出了同樣也採用天青色的凜冬款Compliquée腕錶,天青色的珍珠母貝面盤結合藍色孔雀開屏逆跳分鐘顯示功能,與此次Only watch 主題不謀而合,Fabergé針對這一單獨款式不僅在面盤與錶冠旁裝飾了藍色寶石,特別將機芯的主要螺絲燒製為淡藍色,使錶款正面背面都切合Only Watch本屆主題。

向來大玩色彩的Hublot,不乏各種繽紛鮮嫩的用色,此次Only Watch天青藍主題,HUBLOT用在了今年最新推出的藍寶石水晶陀飛輪款式上,通透的藍寶石水晶錶殼加上錶圈鑲滿方型切割的藍色托帕石,搭載自製鏤空陀飛輪機芯,更加突顯了這個天清湖水藍的清透感,是本屆Only Watch款式中相當吸睛的一件孤品。

A Rare Design in Pale Blue

The selling proposition that Only Watch offers is the uniqueness of the luxury timepieces. Once in two years, many watch lovers look forward seeing the unique watch designs offered by famous brands that cannot be bought in the market. This year the Only Watch uses pale blue for its main theme. For this reason, some of the brands that rarely uses the pale blue color, such as Speake-Marin, that is renowned of its tough and original style, has designed a chronograph watch with a pale blue dial for the event. Rebellion watches, a brand renowned for its bold design and mechanical perfection, offers a unique skeleton dial design decorated it with lug and strap in pale blue color for Only Watch. Blancpain takes its design of the Fifty Fathoms series and decorated with a light pale blue color on the watch dial and hands. Zenith celebrates the 50th anniversary for its classical high-beat watch El Primero, designed a unique vintage edition with a dial of only 30 minutes in pale blue color, and applied the same colored thread on its strap.

Fabergé is a brand renowned for manufacturing jeweled eggs for Russian royalty. This year, their Compliquée winter watch design also used pale blue as the major color. The pale blue pearl dial and peacock with retrograde feature happens to match the main theme of Only watch this year. Fabergé focuses on this unique design not only on the dial but also decorated the crown with sapphires. The screws are coated with pale blue in the caliber to match the Only Watch theme on both the front and back sides. Hublot, a colorful brand that never gets dull, also uses pale blue to match with the Only Watch theme. Hublot crafted the newest watch with sapphires into the Classic Fusion Tourbillon. Polished sapphire crystal case decorated with baguette-cut blue topazes on the bezel. The watch uses the Hublot’s own skeleton tourbillon movement to highlight the tranquility of the pale blue color. The one-of-a-kind timepiece definitely is one of the major attractions in the Only Watch this year. 

藝術跨界更顯珍貴

在鐘錶收藏領域中,除了複雜功能以及罕有款式具有收藏價值之外,結合展現精湛手工底蘊的藝術創作款式,向來也是鐘錶收藏家追逐的對象,本屆Only Watch在藝術性的表現上有幾件作品特別值得關注,其中一件是LOUIS VUITTON與國際級琺瑯彩繪大師Anita Porchet合作的Escale Spin Time Only Watch腕錶,這款腕錶的翻轉時標一直是LOUIS VUITTON的標誌性功能,這次結合Anita Porchet的巧藝,在盤面中央與時標外圍運用內填與微縮琺瑯工藝,繪製出一朵與LV標誌交疊纏繞的豔紅玫瑰,尤其盤面上有代表出自大師親手繪製的A.Porchet簽名加持,無論就趣味性、藝術性與象徵意義,這款Escale Spin Time Only Watch腕錶都是值得拍下珍藏的難得佳款,更何況還僅有一只。

關注獨立製錶的頂級藏家可能會注意到,這屆Only Watch其中有一款是相當相當罕見由DE BETHUNE與URWERK這兩個獨立製表品牌合作的作品:Moon Satellite Only Watch 2019腕錶。這款腕錶基本上是強強聯手的組合,以URWERK衛星式走時結構加上DE BETHUNE最吸引人的立體雙色月相,實在是夢幻中的夢幻逸品,不僅全球僅有一只,估計以後也再難見到。

與Only Watch合作多年的MB&F,今年與其座鐘夥伴L’Epée合作為這一慈善拍賣推出一個融入特殊人物造型的Tom & T-Rex機械座鐘,這個坐在座鐘上的人形金屬雕像是MB&F對肌肉萎縮症病童的詮釋與化身,小雕像騎行與他一同度過患病時光的T-Rex的身上,T-Rex是Tom的夥伴也是兇悍的守護者。這是本屆拍品中與慈善主題連結性最強的作品且寓意深遠,一向在工藝與美學上細膩講究的MB&F,更將這件作品推向更具人文與藝術深度的境界。

Artistic Crossover

In the world of timepiece collection, other than complicated features and rare designs deemed priceless, timepieces with highly advanced craftsmanship and artistic creativity are often loved by timepiece collectors. A few very special luxury timepieces participating in the Only Watch this year are worth mentioning. One of these exceptional watches is Louis Vuitton’s Escale Spin Time Only Watch that with the dial created by Anita Porchet, one of the greatest independent enamelers in fine watchmaking. The Grand Feu champlevé enameling and miniature painting are applied on the center and the hands. The delicate design forms the stem of a rose on this dial overlapping the LV logo. On the dial itself is enameled the A.Porchet signature. The Escale Spin Time Only Watch represents a playful and artistic watch, which is also a prestigious timepiece that will catch the interest of collectors especially when the watch is only one-of-a-kind. 

A unique timepiece that collectors may also take notice of this year at the Only Watch auction is an extremely rare work collaborated by two unique watchmaking brands De Bethune and Urwerk known as Moon Satellite Only Watch 2019. This watch basically is the combined effort of two independent master watchmakers. The Urwerk’s unique satellite displays and De Bethune’s spherical moon combination is the only dream watch ever existing in the world, and most likely will be the only one ever made.

MB&F has cooperated with Only Watch for years. This year, MB&F collaborated with its clock making partner L’Epée for this year’s charity auction to offer a special figure Tom & T-Rex mechanical clock. The tiny figure sitting above the clock made by MB&F is a representation of the children with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The little figure Tom rides on the T-Rex and fights the sickness, where T-Rex is Tom’s companion and a formidable guardian. This extraordinary piece of art represents a strong connection and meaningful creation in the Only Watch auction. MB&F has always been renowned for its delicate aesthetics. This fantastic work further deepens the connection between culture and art. 

淺月傳溫情

本屆Only Watch有不少品牌不約而同選擇了浪漫柔美的月相功能做發揮,而其中以BOVET取名 Récital 23“希望”腕錶的拍品最為動人。這只腕錶是BOVET總裁Pascal Raffy專門針對Only Watch所量身設計,錶殼呈現橢圓型,面盤12點鐘放置了半球形月相顯示,上方雕有精緻的立體繁星,可透過放大鏡裝置細細欣賞。時間顯示盤則繪製了一個坐在月牙上的小仙女圖案,盤面上的鑽石與流星象徵著BOVET對患病兒童所傳遞的祝願。

今年初愛馬仕在SIHH錶展中以同時顯示南北半球的Arceau月讀時光腕錶驚艷日內瓦,在即將到來的Only Watch慈善拍賣中,愛馬仕便結合此次主題色推出Only Watch限量款。這款Only Watch Arceau L’heure de la lune月讀時光腕錶使用了隕石製成面盤,愛馬仕特別將日期與時間盤的指示改為淡淡的天青藍,在隕石面盤與飾有飛馬圖案的兩個月相盤相輝映下,彷彿融合了魔幻與真實兩個世界,在意境上呈現絕美之餘還充滿暖意,也被認為是今年Only Watch所有款式中最美的錶款之一。

在所有今年結合月相功能的錶款中,H. MOSER & CIE.所推出的Endeavour Moon Concept Only Watch恆動月相概念腕錶,可說是其中最純粹也最凸顯月相本質的一只作品。這只腕錶表面上完全沒有時標、品牌名或任何裝飾,僅有深邃的黑突現6點鐘位置的月相視窗,H. MOSER & CIE.採用了被譽為世界上最黑的人造物質的Vantablack®材質打造面盤,據說能夠吸收99.965%的光線,在極度的黑盤中襯托月相的皎潔,H. MOSER & CIE.的月相在精確性更是首屈一指,每1027年才會產生一天的誤差,H. MOSER & CIE.選擇一只如此純粹的月相功能獻給Only Watch慈善拍賣,也正好呼應這一慈善拍賣活動最初的單純善念與初衷。

Warmth Delivered from the Moonphase

Many brands have chosen to emphasize the moon phase feature this year in Only Watch. The extraordinary unique piece of Bovet named Récital 23 “Hope”, as shown by its touching beauty. This fine timepiece is specially designed for Only Watch by the Bovet CEO Pascal Raffy. Inside the oval case is a dial with upper area shows a hemispherical moon phase at the 12 o’clock position. Exquisite sparkling stars are crafted on the moon phase and can be seen through the magnifying glass. On the dial sits a fairy above a crescent moon. Diamonds and shooting stars on the dial represent the hope delivered by BOVET to the children with Muscular Dystrophy.

This year, Hermès showcased a surprising timepiece that displays the moon phases of both the southern and northern hemispheres simultaneously with its Arceau L’Heure De La Lune at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva. In the upcoming Only Watch charity auction, Hermès combined its new series with the color theme this year to create this limited edition timepiece. The Only Watch Arceau L’heure de la Lune puts a meteorite on its dial. Hermès replaced the date and time dial display with pale blue, and the meteorite dial is adorned with the image of Pegasus. The dreamer-design combines the real and magical worlds that its ultra-beauty delivers a warm concept. I personally believe that this is the most beautiful timepiece of all in this year’s Only Watch.

Among all of the timepieces with the moon phase feature, Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Only Watch made by H. Moser & Cie. is said to be one of the finest works that purely focuses and emphasizes the moon phase feature. No dial, brand name or any decoration mark the dial on this timepiece. Only a crescent moon at the 6 o’clock position on the whole deep black dial. H. Moser & Cie. used an artificial material known as Vantablack® that is said to have the blackest color in the world to create the dial. The material can absorb 99.965% of light. The white moon contrasts perfectly with an absolute black color. Also, the moon phase precision of H. Moser & Cie. is known to be extremely accurate, with just one day’s deviation in every 1,027 years. Selecting a timepiece that pursues pure precision in its moon phase feature for Only Watch charity auction also reminds people of the pure purpose of this charity auction.

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