Peter Lindbergh | 光影詩人 A Poet of Light and Shadow

我常常認為,過去膠卷的年代,更容易看到照片傳遞出人性深層的情感、以及所謂的真實。數位攝影技術與硬體的普及,常常讓人忘了拍照是一門極其專業的技術,或許是因為按快門這個動作在膠卷攝影世界,需要更多的講究才能執行,一張好的照片,通常還是來自於執行按快門這個動作的人,是如何看待鏡頭下要呈現的本質,世上有許多優秀的攝影師,也不乏殿堂級的攝影作品,但創時代的攝影師卻屈指可數,而傳奇攝影大師Peter Lindbergh,便是屈指可數中最重要的其中一個。

來自德國的Peter Lindbergh是世界上首屈一指的肖像攝影大師,崛起於80年代,2019年9月3日突然離世的消息傳出震驚整個時尚與攝影圈。Peter Lindbergh還在世時便已被世人稱為「最偉大的黑白攝影第一人」和「魔力詩人」,他所拍攝出的照片即便被世人廣泛效仿,但其所創造出的畫面張力與情感溫度始終無人能及,尤其在他的鏡頭下,光鮮亮麗的時尚被漂洗得虛無矯飾殆盡,只留下最純粹、直白與真摯的本質。

I always believe that in the old days of plastic film, it was easier to deliver the true sensation deep inside humanity that is known as the truth. Popularized digital photography and hardware have often made people forget that photography requires highly-professional skills. Perhaps the reason is that releasing a shutter button in the world of photography requires a lot more knowledge than simply using it. To take a good photo, it usually depends on the person who executes the action of releasing the shutter button and how he wants to express nature through the lens. 

Many spectacular photographers in the world have created famous works, but very few of them take photography itself to a new era. Peter Lindbergh was one of these legendary photographers.

The German photographer Peter Lindbergh was one of the best photographers of portrait photography in the world. He became well known in the 80s. The message of his death on September 3, 2019 shocked the whole world in fashion and photography. In life, Peter Lindbergh was known as “the greatest and first photographer of black-and-white photography” and the “magical poet.” The photos he took are widely known and followed by others, but the tension in image and warmth in emotion are unmatched. Through his camera, even the fanciest fashion wear were reduced to its purest, truest, and sincerest nature.

素顏入鏡無後製

Peter Lindbergh拍照最大的特質在於,一直以來他在拍攝時尚大片時,絕大多數都要求模特或明星素顏出鏡,而且幾乎不使用後製修圖,他甚至認為PS技術是一場人間慘劇。也似乎只有Peter Lindbergh能在數位修飾的年代,有能力讓巨星超模們能接受素顏入鏡,並直面真實的自己,所呈現的照片在不加後製修飾的情況下仍能觸動人心,在Peter Lindbergh眼中,他認為不完美也是一種獨特的完美與詩意,他以獨特的感性的視角去詮釋審美,他鏡頭下的主角永遠散發著自身的特點與魅力,他曾經這麼說:「當今的攝影師應該承擔起幫助女性從年輕和完美的恐懼中解放出來的責任。因為年輕和完美並不是美麗的定義。」

Peter Lindbergh鏡頭下的明星們,褪去矯揉造作,還原樸素、自然、大方的本真,展現出原始而撩人的姿態,即使有皺紋、雀斑、黑眼圈,即使不夠白皙、不夠細嫩,卻依舊迷人,每一張照片都有自己的情緒。

或許正因為Peter Lindbergh如此堅定地對美麗有著如此明確的信念,並且重視每個被拍者的靈魂與個性,Peter Lindbergh透過了他的鏡頭,定義了所謂的真實的美麗,而這種不加修飾所散發的美麗直指人心且強勁有力。「真正的美是一種情感表達,是對自我的認同,無論身形幾何,都能怡然自得。」

Peter Lindbergh在這個多彩紛呈的時尚界,以及特效後製層層堆疊的攝影圈中,以他犀利卻又洞察人心的雙眼、以最純粹的明暗對比以及不同層次的黑白,闡述了他眼中的靈魂與情感的本質,在他離世前,他從未停止拍攝與創作,將近40年的攝影歷程裡,他貫徹自己對美的哲學,成就了屬於Peter Lindbergh式的美麗定義,數十年後他曾經拍過的這些照片,依然會因為其所呈現的真實人性,而始終綻放著美麗的光芒。

No make-up, no post-modification

The most special trait of Peter Lindbergh’s photo when taking fashion shooting, was that he demanded that the models or celebrities come without make-up. He rarely used any post-modification, and he believed that PS technology is a disaster. It seems like only Peter Lindbergh was capable of persuading supermodels and celebrities to show their true selves on camera in the era of digital modification. His work, even without modification, could touch the hearts of people. In the eyes of Peter Lindbergh, he believed that the uniqueness in imperfection is in some way is perfect and poetic. He took a unique sensibility and perspective to express aesthetics. The characters in his camera always exuded their special characteristics with charisma. He once said, “This should be the responsibility of photographers today, to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection. Because youth and perfection are not the definition of beauty.” 

The celebrities through the lens of Peter Lindbergh, females removed their artificiality. They restored simplicity, nature, and generosity. They show their original and attractive posture. Even if with wrinkles, freckles, and dark circles, or the skins are not bright or smooth enough, they still look charming. It seems like every photo has its own emotions. Perhaps because Peter Lindbergh strongly placed his faith in beauty, and he treasured the soul and personality of each person in shooting, through his lens he defined the true meaning of beauty. It was this plain and unaltered beauty that has a straightforward and powerful influence. “True beauty is an expression in emotion. It is a way of self-acceptance. Beauty can be natural regardless of the body figure.”

Peter Lindbergh lived in this colorful world of fashion, he saw the special effects modified behind photography. With his keen and insightful eyes, he pursued the purest contrast between light and darkness; layers between black and white. His work expressed the nature of the soul and emotion in his eyes. Until he passed away, he never stopped shooting and creating. For nearly 40 years of life as a photographer, he followed his philosophy of beauty and created the definition of Peter Lindbergh’s style of beauty with his name. Even a few decades later, the photos will still shine brilliantly because of the true humanity they reveal.