LUXURY

動物奇想 Fantasy Animal Jewelry

大自然是珠寶設計最好靈感泉源,結合絢麗的鑽石、彩寶與各種珍稀寶石,將自然界中不同動物獨特的體態、真實狂野的生命力、以及動物原生的繽紛斑紋色彩詮釋得奇幻魅惑,為頂級珠寶帶來更多元豐富的樣貌。

Nature is the best source of inspiration for jewelry design. Combining gorgeous diamonds, colored gemstones, and valuable precious gems, the unique body structures, original patterns, and colors of different wild animals can be depicted in the fanciful forms of charms, which have brought luxurious jewelry in diverse styles. 

透過珠寶看這些我們熟悉的動物,是一種奇異的感受,這些動物經過珠寶設計師的敏銳觀察以及獨到的藝術詮釋,總能讓我們看到平時沒有注意到的動物之美。珠寶的世界裡,每個品牌自有對動物的解讀,即便是同一種動物也能在不同品牌手中詮釋出不同的意義與美態,甚至進一步傳遞藏在動物意象中所代表抽象含義。而大自然賜予天下物種的多樣化色彩更常常令我們震驚並神往,鳥類的五彩斑斕、爬蟲類的千姿百態、動物身上為了偽裝的斑點紋路等,大自然中最能呼應生命多樣性的,恰恰就是各式華美眩目的珠寶。目前自然界中所發現的寶石,幾乎涵蓋了世間所有顏色:純淨透明的鑽石、鮮艷的紅藍寶石、青翠的祖母綠、藍紫色的坦桑石、橙色的托帕石,甚至還有具變彩效應的歐泊石等等,的確是一番神奇的對照。

在古老的年代裡,人們與動物的關係比現在要更為緊密,以動物為題製作珠寶配飾的歷史更是自古即有,羅馬人在西元前幾世紀就已經開始用蛇形的金質臂環來表現身分與地位,東方也多有以各種祥獸裝飾配飾擺件的文化。東西方文化中動物對人的含義雖有不同,但動物形象融入珠寶設計的美學卻又驚人地有著一致的品味,使一些動物造型系列的珠寶有著不墜的經典地位,這些經典的動物造型珠寶就如同圖騰,以超越歷史文化的亙久形象,深植我們的記憶。其中卡地亞的美洲豹堪稱經典中的經典,更是卡地亞令人一眼辨識的標誌性設計。雖說卡地亞的美洲豹早在1914年便出現在珠寶作品中,但卡地亞的美洲豹世界卻是由貞・杜桑女士於1933年至1970年間擔任藝術總監才真正開啟。貞・杜桑女士將美洲豹造型發揮得淋漓盡致,從胸針、手鐲、項鍊到腕錶,無處不見美洲豹的形象,從此美洲豹成為卡地亞最不朽象徵之一。隨著時光的推移,卡地亞詮釋美洲豹的形式也更加多元豐富,在二次元與三次元空間中以具象甚至抽象的方式展露美洲豹不同現象的魅力。

卡地亞將美洲豹詮釋得高貴又帶點野性,寶格麗則是把蛇這種讓人畏懼的生物,詮釋得既神秘且大膽又充滿叫人難以抗拒的強大誘惑魅力。先遑論蛇在東西方究竟各自代表了什麼含義,光就其獨特的身形輪廓就極其適合製作成珠寶,蛇舞動時身體可彎曲、可伸直、可盤旋、可纏結的自然形態,相比其他動物具有更高的造型可塑性,設計於戒指、手鐲、耳環、吊墜上皆易成形。蛇身的特質適合展現珠寶的律動與線條,蛇首的特徵更是鮮明造型的好題材,因此以蛇為題的珠寶作品其實相當多,不少品牌都曾推出過蛇造型的作品,其中以寶格麗Serpenti系列為最成功的代表。但寶格麗因為有著義大利狂野、多彩且大膽的品牌基因,加上大膽的設計創意,詮釋起蛇這一主題也就更顯得如魚得水,無人能出其右,尤其在寫實與寫意之間將蛇的形象取得了最佳平衡。在造型的運用上,寶格麗除了具象地將蛇形用在了設計上,還將蛇鱗抽象幾何化,使其成為其中的設計元素,即便沒有任何蛇的造型,仍能透過幾何線條感受到蛇的魅惑力。

卡地亞與寶格麗是將動物的野性美發揮得透徹的代表品牌,寶詩龍眼裡的動物,則多了溫柔與浪漫。動物珠寶一直都是寶詩龍擅長的題材,旗下的動物系列珠寶已發表數十種以上動物設計,這種珍禽異獸的生命靈動性在寶詩龍被詮釋得犀利透徹,有的設計則強化了動物的外型特質,有的甚至生動得彷彿時間瞬間停格在某一刻般栩栩如生。寶詩龍的動物題材多元豐富且各有寓意依託,從蜂鳥、刺蝟、鸚鵡、天鵝、變色龍、北極熊等皆有深度含義。

CHAUMET以非洲動物形象為主題的 《 動物狂想曲 》主題作品了結合工藝、趣味與異國情調於一身,這套作品由肯亞藝術家Evans Mbugua設計,除了腕錶之外,還包含了六枚造型生動活潑的動物胸針,有白雲環繞的長頸鹿,還有一改充滿雄性兇猛的獅子等。同樣以動物為題,CHAUMET另一個取材自日本文化的Parade新作,則以細膩的設計語彙詮釋鳥禽,將鳥類飛翔時輕盈且優美的體態以詩意華美的方式呈現。

同樣擅長詮釋動物的梵克雅寶,則是呈現出細緻溫和且帶著一絲俏皮氣息,梵克雅寶最早知名的動物作品要數1954年開始推出的La Boutique迷你動物小胸針,經過童趣演繹將獅子、老虎這類兇猛的動物轉化得可愛且平易近人,同樣的設計語彙也仍在近代梵克雅寶的作品中依稀可見。以挪亞方舟為靈感的L’Arche de Noé racontée par Van Cleef & Arpels系列是梵克雅寶近年最大的動物相關主題作品,所囊括的動物類型與使用的寶石種類都相當大量且個個精彩,尤其為呼應挪亞方舟故事中動物是成雙成對帶上船的細節,梵克雅寶此次所設計的動物也都是雙雙對對,更增加了難度,因為要將兩隻相同的動物並排,既要各有姿態又要彼此和諧,而且還要尋得可匹配的寶石運用其上,梵克雅寶在這一系列幾乎都只用細緻但簡潔的線條展現動物輪廓與特質,以畫龍點睛的質材妝點但所展現的主題完整性與美感,實在叫人不得不佩服梵克雅寶的精湛功力。

珠寶品牌的技與藝,從觀察他們如何藉由線條輪廓、寶石選擇及鑲嵌功力,將動物的靈動性與生命力表現在珠寶作品上,多少能看出高低端倪,既有外形上的惟妙惟肖,亦有神采中的渾然天成,而在寶石的掌握熟稔度上,又能適切地將動物的顏色特質畫龍點睛,動物珠寶的世界之精彩豐沛遠超過我們想像,也難怪年年都有相同主題的新款推出,而我們從來都難以抵抗其魅力。

It’s an extraordinary feeling when we look at animal-shaped jewelry. These depictions of animals require jewelry designers’ sharp observation and exclusive interpretation of art that ensures we see the beauty of animals we often fail to notice. In the world of jewelry, each brand has its interpretation of animals; different brands expose different meanings of animal postures, and they even further convey the abstract significance hidden in the image of animals. While the diversity of natural species makes us amazed and impressed, such as iridescent colors in birds, a variety of reptilian postures, spots, or patterns that animals use for camouflage, etc., jewelry is the best object that echoes the diversity of nature. So far, the greatest natural color ranges can be displayed by gems found in nature, pure and clear diamonds, bright rubies and sapphires, green emeralds, tanzanite in blue and purple, orange topaz, opal stones that come in many colors, etc. They reveal a magical color contrast.

In ancient times, people had more closely bonded interactions with animals. Making jewelry accessories in animal shapes has been found dating back to ancient times. The Romans began to show their identity and social status with gold snake armbands several years before Christ. In the East, there is a culture using a variety of auspicious animal displays and accessories. Although the meanings of animals are very different from Eastern and Western cultures, but there is the same consistent taste in the aesthetics of blending animal images into jewelry design. This has given animal-shaped jewelry a classic status ever since. These pieces of animal-shaped jewelry are like totems, which are beyond the long-standing image of history and culture and deeply remembered. Cartier’s panther is the one of the iconic designs of the brand. The panther was found in jewelry design as early as 1914, but Cartier’s world of panther started under design director Jeanne Toussaint during years from 1933 to 1970. She created brooches, bracelets, necklaces, and watches, with panther shape. With the passing of time, Cartier has created more diverse forms of the panther, in the world of two-dimensional subspace and three-dimensional space, the panther has shown its glamor in either concrete or abstract forms.

Cartier depicts the panther in elegance and wildness, while the scary snake is interpreted by Bvlgari in mystery and boldness to make it irresistibly attractive. No matter what meaning the snake symbolizes in Eastern and Western cultures, its unique body structure fits the design of jewelry. The natural postures of how a snake moves, bending, straight, spiral, and entangling, have better formability than other animals to be applied in the design of rings, bracelets, earrings, and pendants. The body of the snake is suitable for showing the rhythm and shapes of jewelry, snake head is a good characteristic for distinctive creation; the Bvlgari Serpenti collection is the most representative due to Bvlgari featuring the Italian bold character of wildness and colors as well as the audacious creativity that makes it easy to depict snake themes; in particular, Bvlgari has achieved the best balance between the real and artistic image of snakes. Besides the application of physical forms of snakes to the design, Bvlgari has made the snake scales become abstract geometry as elements of design; even though there’s no snake shape, the geometric structure have conveyed the fascination of snakes. Cartier and Bvlgari are the top brands that best fulfill the use of animals’ wild beauty. In the eyes of Boucheron, the animals are mild and romantic. Animal-shaped jewelry has been the best of the works of Boucheron, which owns an animal jewelry collection with dozens of designs. The characters of these rare and precious animals have been depicted perfectly by Boucheron. Some designs intensify the quality of animal shapes, and others are as lively as freezing the moment of the animals. Boucheron has a diversity of animal jewelry works that carry specific deep meanings, including hummingbirds, hedgehogs, parrots, swans, chameleons, polar bears, etc.

CHAUMET has launched the “Espiègleries”, which is themed by African animals and integrates craftsmanship, fun, and exotic beauty; this collection is designed by the Kenya artist Evans Mbugua, and in addition to watches, it includes six animal-shaped brooches featuring lively and cute designs, including a giraffe surrounded by the white cloud, a fierce lion, etc. The other collection that is themed by animals, CHAUMET has launched a new collection inspired by Japanese culture, Parade, which uses intricate design to depict birds and show the elegant postures of birds poetically and luxuriously. Van Cleef & Arpels, which is the other brand good at designing animal-shaped jewelry, is renowned for the launch of La Boutique mini animal-shaped brooches in 1954. These fierce animals like lions and tigers are transformed into lovely and amiable images with fun design elements, which can be seen in other contemporary works of Van Cleef & Arpels. There are a great amount of all animal shapes and types of gemstones and they look amazing. In particular, in response to the story of Noah’s Ark, all on-board animals are in pairs. Van Cleef & Arpels has to take the challenge to make the same animals stand next to each other and their postures are different but harmonious as well as the collection of suitable gems on the works. Van Cleef & Arpels uses subtle but simple lines to show the contours and the quality of animals, the highlighted decoration keeps the theme so sound and beautiful that Van Cleef & Arpels won everyone’s appreciation.The craftsmanship and art of the brands of jewelry can be observed from how they use lines to contour, the collection of gems, and the skills of mounting to show animal’s lively nature and vitality on the jewelry works. Some are the perfect imitation of the real animals, while others carry charm in the postures of animals. The tactful skills on the collection of gemstones fit the real colors of animals. The rich diversity of animal-shaped jewelry is beyond our imagination, which is why there are new collections launched every year and no one can resist their fascination.

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