LUXURY

經典的構成 How Classics Are Made

所謂經典,不外乎外觀設計的優異性獲得了廣大市場的共鳴,經歷長時間考驗仍能持續受到歡迎的款式,說白了,就是百看不厭。在鐘錶世界裡以男性消費者為族群的設計中,不乏教人津津樂道的經典設計,但充滿故事性的經典女錶卻也不少。

A model can be regarded as ”classic” if it possesses superior design that greatly resonates with the market, and has been popular for a long period of time. Simply put, one never gets tired of it. In the world of watches in which most designs have been based on male consumers, there exist many delightful classic designs and many classic women’s watches abundant with stories.

寶璣那不勒斯王后系列

提到經典的女錶設計,寶璣的那不勒斯王后系列可說是這十多年間聲勢最旺的代表。寶璣那不勒斯王后系列從其外觀設計、設計來源到系列名本身,都充滿著傳奇色彩。那不勒斯之名來自拿破崙的妹妹卡洛琳 • 繆拉,因他後來貴為那不勒斯王后而有此稱。卡洛琳 • 繆拉是寶璣檔案中名聲顯赫的收藏者之一,相關文獻中記載有多次她購入寶璣錶的紀錄,她本身對鐘錶也擁有高度的鑒賞力。卡洛琳 • 繆拉於1810年(此時她已貴為那不勒斯王后)向寶璣大師下訂了一個特殊的錶款,需專為她而量身製作,在寶璣的銷售紀錄中有粗略地記錄這款腕錶的形貌:鵝蛋形外殼並搭配了由極細的金線編織而成的鏈帶。根據需求,那不勒斯王后希望寶璣大師為這款時計安上鏈帶以便佩戴在手腕上,這是當時世上未曾出現過的腕錶形式,如果沒有新的歷史紀錄被翻查出來,這只時計可被定義為世界上第一只“腕錶”。寶璣根據這一歷史紀錄,於2002年時推出了Reine de Naples那不勒斯王后系列,其外觀造型與歷史文獻相當接近,是漂亮特殊的鵝蛋型外殼,在2002年時也是市面上極其罕見的設計,這一系列的特色設計還有錶冠位於4點鐘位置,以及擁有偏心式時間顯示盤等。 在這十多年間,那不勒斯王后系列錶款變化出了各種不同功能與設計,從適合日常佩戴到高端鑲滿鑽石的頂級珠寶款,甚至搭載複雜功能的錶款皆有,成為當代辨識度極高的經典女錶代表。

Breguet Reine de Naples Collection

Speaking of classic women’s watch designs, the Reine de Naples collection of Breguet has been the most popular representative in the past decades. From the design of its appearance, to the origin of its design, the name of the collection itself is full of legends. The name Naples originated from Caroline Murat, the sister of Napoleon Bonaparte who was the Queen of Naples. Caroline Murat is one of the most prestigious collectors among Breguet’s archives. According to related archives, there were many records of her purchasing Breguet watches. She herself also had a good eye for them. In 1810, Caroline Murat (who had already become the Queen of Naples) ordered a special style of watch that needed to be specially customized for her from the maestros of Breguet. The design of this watch was roughly described in the sales record of Breguet: oval-shaped case coordinated with a bracelet woven out of extremely fine gold lines. According to her request, when the Queen of Naples wanted the bracelet to be added to the timepiece so she could wear it on her wrist, it was a kind of wristwatch that had never existed before. If no other new historical records are reveled, this can be regarded as the first ”wristwatch” in the world. According to this historical record, Breguet released the Reine de Naples collection in 2002 to reinterpret contemporary women’s sense of high class machine watches. The appearance of the Reine de Naples collection highly resembles those in historical archives, which had a beautiful and unique oval-shaped case, which was rare in the market. Other featured designs of this collection included that the crown is located at the 4 o’clock position and with off-enter display. In the past decade, the Reine de Naples collection has released various different functions and designs from those suitable for daily life to a deluxe jewelry style with plenty of diamonds installed on it, and watches with complicated functions. It has become the representative of the classic women’s watch with great identity.

卡地亞Ballon Bleu de Cartier 藍氣球系列

如果寶璣的那不勒斯王后系列是設計上的經典,那麼卡地亞肯定是女錶作品中的品牌代表,卡地亞幾乎從創立初期便開始了鐘錶的事業,在超過160年的歷史裡,卡地亞創造過各式豐富多樣的鐘錶作品,無論在造型上,功能或顯示方式的表現,卡地亞驚人豐富的創造力積累出今日的卡地亞擁有充滿自我風格的魅力。卡地亞旗下的許多系列幾乎都有精彩的故事,以及被足以稱之為經典的設計,從早期的Santos、Tank到近代的Ballon Bleu de Cartier藍氣球系列,其中以圓形為基礎的Ballon Bleu de Cartier藍氣球可說是近代一推出便成名的代表作。卡地亞的Ballon Bleu de Cartier藍氣球系列推出於2007年,在此之前卡地亞的錶款以造型不拘形式且多變大膽聞名,Ballon Bleu de Cartier藍氣球以全新設計的新系列之姿,一推出便受到各方推崇。這一系列的命名與設計靈感,來自1783年在法國凡賽爾宮花園內,蒙特哥菲爾兩兄弟放飛了一隻刺繡有金色圖案的藍色熱氣球,這是人類歷史上的一隻熱氣球,在天空上整整飛行了8分鐘,代表著人類首度掙脫地心引力的控制可以翱翔天際。卡地亞取自這一偉大的紀錄,設計了一款似圓非圓的異型錶殼,但又能呈現出十分優雅的流線造型的Ballon Bleu de Cartier藍氣球系列。其外形最突出的亮點便在其錶冠處,錶殼到包覆錶冠的護橋以渾圓的線條一體成型,錶冠處的面盤錶圈則有一個獨特的內凹設計,形成了像是在錶殼上嵌入一個圓球體的結構,在辨識度上相當鮮明,也突顯了所鑲嵌的人造藍色尖晶石的圓潤,如同兩百多年前放飛的那顆藍色熱氣球,浮動在空中一般。藍氣球問世以來,其另闢蹊徑、別開生面的殼型受到了眾多明星人物、名媛貴婦的喜愛和熱捧,再加上其遠遠便能一眼辨識的設計,堪稱卡地亞這十多年間所創造的最經典的女錶代表了。

Ballon Bleu de Cartier Collection

If Breguet the Reine de Naples collection represent the iconic women watch designs, then Cartier is definitely the brand representative of women’s watches. Cartier started making watches nearly since its founding. In its 160-year history, Cartier has created an abundant variety of watches. Regardless of its presentation in the watches’ design, function, or display, the astonishing and abundant creativity of Cartier has accumulated into its self-styled charm of today. The many collections of Cartier’s watches all have brilliant stories and designs that can be regarded as classic, from Santos and Tank in its early days, to the recent Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection. Among them, the round-shaped Ballon Bleu de Cartier is a recent masterpiece that has been famous since its release. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection was released in 2007. Before then, Cartier was known for making bold styles of watches that came in different shapes, and the brand-new design of the new collection of Ballon Bleu de Cartier has been highly praised by many since its release. The naming and the design of this collection was inspired by the blue hot air balloon sewn with golden patterns released by the Montgoflier brothers in 1783 at the garden of the Palace of Versailles. It was the first hot air balloon in human history and flew for 8 minutes in the air, symbolizing that this was the first time that mankind could defy the grasp of gravity and soar in the air. Inspired by this magnificent record, Cartier designed the Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection with a seemingly round case with an elegant streamline design. What stands out most on its appearance is its crown, in with the protector that covers the crown is in one piece with the case. The round surface of the crown has a unique inner-adverted design, resembling a sphere structure embedded onto the case. This design has made the watch highly recognizable and highlighted the roundness of the embedded artificial blue spinel, just like the hot air balloon that floated in the air 200 years ago. Since the release of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier collection, it has created a different path and the refreshing watch case has been liked and praised by many celebrities and ladies. In addition to that, its highly recognizable design has also made this the most classic women’s watch to represent Cartier for the past decade.

伯爵Limelight系列

在高級精品領域,伯爵是少數以專業製錶起家再跨足珠寶,並在兩個領域皆獲得巨大成功的品牌。珠寶與鐘錶這兩個世界密不可分並且緊密相連,它們在製作上不僅共享類似的製作基礎,還可謂相得益彰的一體兩面:前者為鐘錶基礎架構添上精緻裝飾,後者則展現驅動整套系統的魔法。另一方面,高級珠寶世界充滿詩情畫意般的創意靈感,而鐘錶世界則關乎符合邏輯的結構關係,兩者在想像力的界面交會,使現實的精密美學與感性得以平衡,而伯爵透過一系列Limelight錶款的美妙設計,成為悠游其中的最佳代表。珠寶腕錶系列在市場上屢創佳績且層出不窮的設計創意,讓伯爵珠寶錶完全自成一格,建立了自己在珠寶錶領域屹立不搖的地位, Limelight系列等錶款尤其是伯爵呈現創意與施展鑲嵌功力的一方園地,伯爵將各種奇思異想幻化成不同主題,發揮在Limelight系列之中,無論是輕轉錶殼便可變換樣貌姿態的Limelight Magic Hour,或是以神秘腕錶形式展現的Limelight珠寶腕錶,皆可領略伯爵千變萬化的不同姿態,成為伯爵女裝珠寶腕錶的經典系列。

其中Limelight Gala系列,擁有叫人難忘的流線輪廓,錶殼外緣具有上下自然流洩的順暢弧度,錶殼上鑲嵌上大小不一的美鑽,是款形式上看似簡約卻又蘊含高度製造工藝的作品。且其所散發的華麗與風韻,自有鎮壓全場的女王范氣場。伯爵這一不對稱錶耳的設計靈感是取自伯爵1970年代首批推出的珠寶腕錶,其類似橢圓形的錶殼,從鑲鑽錶圈延伸出的左上右下錶耳以及隱身於錶殼下的錶冠,都被重新演繹為當代的Limelight Gala系列,也成為此系列腕錶的重要特色,自2012年首度推出以來,旋即成為伯爵旗下享有最高知名度的女錶代表。

Piaget Limelight Collection

Among deluxe accessories, Piaget is one of the few brands that started off as a professional watch maker before entering the jewelry industry, and it has gained great success in both fields. The two worlds of jewelry and watches are inseparable and closely related. They not only share similar manufacturing fundamentals, but also bring out the best in one another. Jewelry adds exquisite decorations on simple watch structures, while watches demonstrate the magic the runs the whole system. On the other hand, the world of deluxe jewelry is one filled with poetic creativity and inspiration, while the world of watches is one with logical and structural operations. Both sides intertwine on the interface of imagination, hitting the balance between precise aesthetics and sensibility in real life. With the beautiful design of the Limelight collection, Piaget is the best representative of one that swims freely between both sides.The outstanding performance and endless design creativity of the jewelry wristwatches collection has made the jewelry watches of Piaget unique and established its sound status in the field of jewelry wristwatches. Watches such as the Limelight collection especially demonstrate Piaget’s creativity and embedding skills. Piaget is capable of turning all sorts of fantasies into different themes and put them in the Limelight collection. Whether it is the Limelight Magic Hour that can change its appearance by lightly twisting its case, or Limelight jewelry wristwatches that are presented in the form of mysterious wristwatches, one can comprehend all changing postures of Piaget, making it the classic collection of Piaget women’s wristwatches. Among them, the Limelight Gala collection possesses an unforgettable streamlined contour with its natural vertical fluid flowing curve on the edge of its case. Beautiful diamonds in different sizes are embedded on the case, making it a simple-looking yet highly skilled art craft. The glamour and flavor is disseminated in a queen-like aura that impresses everyone. The asymmetric pusher design of Piaget was inspired by Piaget’s jewelry wristwatches first released in the 1970’s. Its oval shaped case, the diamond-embedded bezel that extends to the upper-left and lower-right pushers, and the crown hidden under the case are all re-interpreted in the contemporary Limelight Gala collection, thus becoming the features of this collection of wristwatch. Since Piaget first released this collection in 2012, it soon became the representative women’s watch of Piaget with a great reputation.

蕭邦Happy Diamonds

美鑽的光華總能帶來加乘的效果,鑽石的火光與閃光交錯的光芒,可以直射入人心,鑽石運用在腕錶設計上,除了各式鑲嵌之外,蕭邦是率先想到讓寶石脫離固定鑲台而延伸使用到錶款設計的品牌,也就是經典的Happy Diamonds系列的問世。蕭邦Happy Diamonds的靈感來源也相當有趣,源起要回到1976年,當時蕭邦的裝飾師兼設計師羅納 德・庫洛斯基(Ronald Kurowski)有一天在德國黑森林散步,他看到瀑布激起的水珠在太陽下閃動耀眼的光芒並且折射出宛如彩虹般的光彩,於是他靈光一閃突發奇想:如果可以讓鑽石也像這些水珠這樣飛濺該會有多美,於是他決定讓鑽石擺脫鑲台,可以自由地隨人體的動作自在地滑動,也就是Happy Diamonds最早的開始(當時其實命名為「觸摸鑽石」(Touching Diamonds)),而且有趣的是,這個作品,一開始還不是女錶,而是針對男性設計的。

在Happy Diamonds的面盤上,鑽石與鑽石相互搭配, 時而激烈碰撞、時而翩然分離、時而緩慢流動,宛如一場華美的現代舞蹈。Happy Diamonds 讓鑽石自在躍動的關鍵在於使用了兩層藍寶石水晶鏡面, 一顆顆單獨鑲嵌的鑽石放置在兩層鏡面的中間,每一顆單獨的鑽石採用了環鑲技術鑲嵌在獨立的金質鑲座上, 當手錶隨人體晃動時,鑽石在這中間便可悠然流動。Happy Diamonds的設計迷人靈動,除了實現最初希望鑽石如水珠濺散的視覺效果,也成為女性趨之若鶩的奢華逸品,至今始終都是蕭邦名聲最大也最暢銷的經典之作。

Chopard Happy Diamonds

The glamour of beautiful diamonds can bring about additional effects. The sparkles and shining rays of diamonds can directly enter one’s heart. When diamonds are used on wristwatch designs, besides all sorts of embedding designs, Chopard was the first brand to come up with the idea of allowing jewelry to leave its stationary setting and utilize it on wristwatch designing, which resulted in the release of the classic Happy Diamonds collection. What inspired Chopard Happy Diamonds was also pretty interesting. Back in 1976, when Ronald Kurowski, decorator and designer of Chopard, was walking in the Black Woods of Germany, he saw shiny drops of water caused by the waterfall reflect rainbow-like colors under the sun. This inspired him and made he thought of how beautiful it could be if diamonds could move around like these drops of water. So he decided to remove the stationary setting of diamonds and allow them to slide around freely along with the possessor’s movement. This was the earliest beginning of Happy Diamonds (it was named ”Touching Diamonds” at that time). The most interesting thing was, these works were not initially made on women’s watches, but were designed for men.On the surface of Happy Diamonds, diamonds coordinate with one another. Sometimes they collide against one another; sometimes they are separated, while sometimes they move slowly. The movement of diamonds resembles a glamorous modern dance. The key to Happy Diamonds’ free movement of diamonds is that it uses two layers of blue diamond crystal mirrors and each individual diamond is embedded between the two layers of mirrors. Each individual diamond is embedded on an independent gold setting utilizing ring setting techniques. When the watch moves along with the human body, the diamonds are able to flow freely in between. The design of Happy Diamonds is attractive and astonishing. Besides realizing the initial intended visual effect of making diamonds move like water drops, it also has become a luxurious boutique that many women are fond of. As of today, it is the most famous and most popular classic masterpiece of Chopard.

積家Reverso翻轉系列

雖然積家近幾年女錶主推約會系列,也著實成為了旗下女錶的新一代經典代表,但積家旗下另一個歷史悠久的Reverso翻轉系列在某種意義上更能稱之為經典。積家的Reverso有獨特可翻轉的錶殼設計,部分的款式將兩面盤面設計為不同樣貌,或是鑲鑽與不鑲鑽的差別,佩戴者可以根據需求與服裝場合選擇適合的盤面,也因此一只腕錶有雙面風情便成為Reverso翻轉系列的招牌特色。Reverso翻轉系列的設計歷史相當悠久,在1931年時,為了因應當時盛行的馬球運動配戴所需,積家設計了可將錶殼翻面的結構以保護錶鏡,避免馬球運動員配戴運動時造成鏡面碎裂,這個以實用性為出發點的概念,也從此成為積家最知名的系列錶款之一至今。Reverso翻轉系列除了延續當年翻轉的結構之外,在外型上也始終保留著當時Art Deco盛行的俐落簡約搭配幾何線條的設計風格,即便已誕生近90年,Reverso翻轉系列仍是百看不厭的經典。

或許每個人對何謂經典心中的自有定界,但經典構成的要件除了外觀,絕對少不了消費者的肯定與時間的淬煉,而這些長期在市場上受到大多數女性青睞的款式,除了設計有其過人之處外,那些令人津津樂道的靈感緣起,恐怕也是構成經典的要素之一吧。

JLC Reverso Collection

Although women’s watches of JLC have focused on the Rendez-vous in recent years, it has really became a new generation of classic women’s watches. However, the historical Reverso collection of JLC is that one can really be regarded as a classic. Reverso collection has a unique reversible watch case design. In some models, both sides of the surface are designed differently or have the difference of being embedded with diamonds or not. The possessor can choose the appropriate surface they need according to their demand, dress code, and occasion. Therefore, one wristwatch with two styles has become the greatest feature of the Reverso collection. The design of the Reverso collection also has a long history. Back in 1931, due to demands of the popular sport of polo, JLC designed a reversible watch cast that could be used to protect the surface, preventing polo players from breaking them. Starting from this practical concept, it has become the most well-known watch collection of JLC as of today. In addition to extending its reversible structure, the Reverso collection has also maintained its Art Deco style with the designing style of simple geometric coordination. Even after nearly 90 years from its release, the Reverso collection is still a classic watch one never gets tired of. Maybe everyone has different thoughts on what is classic to them. However, for something to be regarded as classic, besides its appearance, it definitely needs the approval of consumers and must pass the testimony of time. As for styles that are popular among women for a long time on the market, in addition to having outstanding designs, their interesting origins is probably one of the reasons that has made them classic. 

發表迴響

%d 位部落客按了讚: