LUXURY

奢華巡禮 A Journey to Luxury Jewelry

花語星卉

香奈兒女士特立獨行、叛逆的品味喜好,山茶花此種雌雄同株且模稜曖昧,同屬於紳士與名媛的花朵,正好最能詮釋香奈兒女士的個人特質。香奈兒眾多作品中皆融入了山茶花元素,這朵她所摯愛的白色花朵,除了不可撼動的經典地位,更呼應了品牌精神。香奈兒女士曾提及在13歲時就深受法國舞台劇暨電影女星莎拉‧伯恩哈特(Sarah Bernhardt) 所主演的茶花女(The Lady of the Camellias)所感動。但香奈兒女士之所以青睞這傳奇性的花朵,是因為她畢生摯愛的情人卡培男孩(Boy Capel) ,獻給其第一簇花束即為山茶花。香奈兒全新高級珠寶《Bouton de Camélia》以兩個子系列共九件新作,呈現山茶花流暢的幾何圓形花體,細膩圓潤的線條,簡單俐落的風格,在女士的指間、頸項與耳畔,完美詮釋香奈兒女士的山茶花,同時也讓她對於山茶花珠寶的無限熱情得以延續。

而除了山茶花,星星也是香奈兒女士鍾情元素,她曾如此說道:「我要以群星裝扮女人。星星!大大小小的星星……看看這些彗星,星星在肩上閃亮,星尾從肩後繞過,宛如一片星雨灑落胸前」。早在1932年初的巴黎,香奈兒女士受邀設計並展出一系列以鑽石、鉑金為主的高級珠寶鑽石珠寶系列(Bijoux de Diamants),對於珠寶她堅守著與高級訂製服同樣信念:「不能把女性禁錮在盔甲裡,必須賦予自由」,以無扣頭的六尾彗星項鍊宣告了一個珠寶新紀元的到來。她選擇了璀璨耀眼的彗星以及繁星圖案作為首次高級珠寶設計的圖騰之一。2019年,CHANEL全新Comète高級珠寶,以品牌經典元素彗星,飾以18K白金、黃金、鑽石與日本養珍呈現色彩與材質的「對比」概念,其中,單邊耳釦以流星形式延著耳廓洩流而下,不對稱的耳環形體,突破傳統珠寶設計規範,大膽詮釋多樣化穿戴,展現出乎意料的現代美學。

The Language of Flowers and Stars

Ms. Chanel is independent-minded and she prefers defiant styles, such as the camellia, a bisexual flower for both gentlemen and ladies; and, it’s the best for interpreting the personality of Ms. Chanel. Camellia is the recognizable element in most of Chanel’s works; the white flower she dearly loves has an unshakable classic position that responds to the brand spirit. Ms. Chanel has always mentioned that at the age of 13, she has been deeply influenced by the French actress Sarah Bernhardt, who played in the drama and movie “The Lady of the Camellias.” However, what really makes Ms. Chanel prefer the legendary flower is that her first bouquet was the camellia which her beloved lover Boy Capel gave to her. Chanel’s brand-new high-class jewelry collection “Bouton de Camélia” has 2 branch collections with a total of 9 new works presenting the smooth circle geometric figure of the camellia, refined and round lines with a simple and sleek style. When they’re worn on the fingers, around the neck, or on the ears, they perfectly present the camelia of Ms. Chanel; at the same time, they carry on her infinite passion for the camellia jewelry.

In addition to camellia, the star is one of Ms. Chanel’s favorite elements. She has said, “I want women to wear stars. Stars! Large or small stars… Look at these comet-like stars shining on the shoulders, and the tails of stars bypass the shoulders like a rain of stars scattering over the chest.” As early as the beginning of 1932 in Paris, Ms. Chanel was invited to design and display a collection of luxury jewelry pieces made with diamonds and platinum, the Bijoux de Diamants. For the jewelry design, she sticks to the same concepts applied to the custom-made apparel, that is “Never confine women in an armor; women must have the freedom to dress up.” A necklace with a set of six comet-like tails announced the arrival of a new generation in the world of jewelry. She chose the dazzling and glorious comet and the pattern of stars as the totems in her first design for luxury jewelry. In 2019, Chanel’s brand-new Comète luxury jewelry collection used the brand’s classic element, the comet, and the works of the collection are made with the 18K platinum, gold, diamonds and Akoya pearls to deliver the “contrast” concept in the presentation of colors and materials. Among the works, the single-sided ear clip is designed in the form of a shooting star gliding down along the earlobe. The unbalanced design of earrings has broken the norm of traditional jewelry design; it’s a courageous presentation of diversity in wearing and modern aesthetics is thus achieved beyond all expectations.

協美色彩樂音

自從1999年以來,Dior不斷從品牌精神中擷取靈感,將珠寶創作注入無限詩意,以其滋養著彩色寶石,而Victoire de Castellane更是以怪誕敘事手法,一再為每一次創作注入奇異思想,Dior 全新高級珠寶系列著實可說是為珠寶部門劃下20周年的時代註解。Gem Dior 宛若一曲環繞著協美色彩組合的礦物樂音,交匯著由幾何形狀與鑲嵌工藝所譜寫的抑揚頓挫。全系列一共高達99件創作,為Dior珠寶部門創立迄今最龐大的巨構,內容包含了寫意抽象、線條幾何以及透過詩意滿盈的鑲嵌、不對稱的視覺效果、撩撥情感的色彩光譜與童稚的未來主義,完整傳達了Victoire de Castellane的敘事宇宙。「就像是將我過往二十年的創作系列全數放進搖骰的搖缸,呈現的是凝結框架與巨大的像素化特寫。」她進一步解釋:「最後駐留的是原石般地創作與色彩。」

Gem Dior 其英文中定義著寶石的”Gem”,與法文裡表意著「我愛……」的”j’aime”兩相成對,以一場同音異語的文字遊戲,朗聲宣讀了新系列的出場。無論寶石指述的為鑽石、紅寶石、紫色或錳鋁石榴石、粉紅剛玉及黃色剛玉、祖母綠、沙弗來石、石榴紅或鈷藍尖晶石、坦桑石、紅碧璽或帕拉伊巴碧璽,Gem Dior 是對寶石及它們無窮色調的情愛宣示,不論其所炫示的是由幽微光影所烘托出的濃郁單一色彩,或繁麗似錦的視覺震撼。當中我們可見 Framboise、Coquelicot、Tilleul、Jonquille……,所有寶石以其主導顏色冠名,像是覆盆子、罌粟、冰柱、石灰、水仙花……,皆開展出一系列表情達意的詩意詞彙表。

除此之外,寶石切割方式亦與這些色彩序列兩相呼應,包括長方型、方型、梨型、欖尖型、枕型及橢圓型,應用錯置的結構將寶石以隱匿鑲爪的方式細膩疊加。緣於此,正如 Victoire de Castellane 所揭示的,一系列的戒指創作「恍若一個直接放置於手指上的迷你寶石封包,寶石的隨機編組猶如擲出骰子。它們彼此層層傾覆卻也分裂叢生,營造出份量與峰巒,如地落交錯的地質層或黃鐵礦之流的特定礦物,展現出一種極致的幾何結構」。

Harmonious Association of Color with Music

Ever since 1999, Dior has been continuously inspired by its brand spirit in the jewelry creations that are infused with poetic infinity used to nourish the colored diamonds. Furthermore, the designer Victoire de Castellane uses her peculiar way of storytelling to once again infuse eccentric ideas into her creations. It’s said that Dior’s new luxury jewelry collection has given a definition of the time for the 20th anniversary of its jewelry department. Gem Dior is like the melody of minerals that circle a harmonious color combination, it’s the assembly of cadence created by geometric shapes and inlaid crafts. The collection has up to 99 pieces of works, it’s the largest collection ever since Dior established the jewelry department. The works have completely delivered Victoire de Castellane’s way of manifesting her universe by imagination and abstract, geometrical lines, poetic inlays, unbalanced visual effects, sensational color spectrum and naive futurism. “It’s like putting every collection I created in the past 20 years into a dice shaker and the results show a freeze-frame and a pixelated close-up,” a further explanation said she, “the last thing remaining is the gem-like creation and color, the Gem Dior.”

Gem Dior, “Gem” an English word means gemstones, and it’s “j’aime” in the French language meaning “I love…”. It’s a word game of homophone that grandly introduces the launch of the new collection. No matter if the gemstone refers to diamond, ruby, purple or aluminum-manganese garnet, pink and yellow corundum, emerald, tsavorite, pomegranate-red or cobalt-blue spinel, tanzanite, rubellite, or paraiba tourmaline. Gem Dior is the love statement of gemstones and their infinite tints by either the mellow single color highlighted by the faint lights they set out or the gorgeous visual impact they bring about. In the collection, we can see Framboise, Coquelicot, Tilleul, Jonquille, etc.; every gemstone is named after the name of its main color, such as raspberry, poppy, icicle, lime, daffodil, etc. to start a series of poetic terms.

Moreover, the gem-cutting methods and the color array respond to each other; including the shapes of rectangle, square, pear, marquise, pincushion and oval, the application of mismatched structure inlays the gemstones by a hidden prong setting. As the result, it’s exactly what Victoire de Castellane has unveiled, “The collections of ring is like a mini diamond packet placed on the finger and the arrangements of the gemstones is just like a dice throw that creates random combinations. They are not only the overlaps but also the branches of extension in the creation of volume and fluctuation; looking like the intertwined geological strata or specific pyrite minerals, a presentation of an extremely geometric configuration.”

漠地之美

伯爵向來喜愛以旅行為主題,將旅程中的美景和自然萬物變化刻畫於珠寶創作當中,這次則帶領我們前往沙漠境地,一探漠地裡你不曾想過的極致景象。全新《Golden Oasis 燦金綠洲》頂級珠寶系列是一份對於自然的禮讚,一共以「Play of Lights 光之嬉戲」、「Desert Minerals 漠地之泉」及「Native Bloom 原生之花」三個主題作為靈感來源,藉由奇思妙想和工匠技藝展演品牌最令人讚譽的黃金工藝與濃郁寶石之中。「Play of Lights 光之嬉戲」靈感源自高懸於奔騰波湧沙漠上的無盡長空,從閃耀著熾熱光芒的艷陽日,到滿佈點點繁星的靜謐夜,皆透過了閃爍著迷人光彩的寶石與黃金,呈現出彷若於天堂舞動的聖潔之光。正如「Golden Hour–黃金時刻」項鍊捕捉了太陽攀升於日正之空的光芒瞬時,寶石大師花費了一年的時間收集到最能代表黃金時刻的鑽石,才能創作出如此匯聚了珠寶金工藝術的精湛作品。「Desert Minerals 漠地之泉」則在於詠嘆原始生命的純粹一面,並藉由濃郁色澤、精彩設計以及細緻繁複的外型細節勾勒出此系列全景。其中湛藍瀑布項鍊(Blue Waterfall Necklace)為一件主石14.61克拉枕形切割藍寶石18K白金項鍊。伯爵寶石大師提到這枚源自於馬達加斯加的藍寶石時,堪稱為他一生所見之最。這枚古典枕形切割藍寶石展現出優於其他有色寶石的顏彩,其濃郁的程度已然謂為彩色寶石之極致,而長墜型的項鍊設計,更在漸層色彩的襯托下,宛若真實飛濺於綠洲山谷間的一抹幽藍碧潭。湛藍瀑布項鍊(Blue Waterfall Necklace)所呈現的墜鍊式設計,在墜飾上更運用匠心獨具地採以可拆卸式細節,而如此極富巧思的特色,更如實地呈現出泉水活潑多變的自然之貌。最後,「Native Bloom 原生之花」充滿著對自然萬物中,各種完美形象所存在的獨特韻味致敬,更從在逆境中仍孤挺生長的沙漠花卉獲取創作能量,這些取材自沙漠當中的花卉珠寶作品,充滿著令人驚嘆且璀璨之光彩。當中綠洲項鍊(Luxuriant Oasis Necklace)散發著一片蔚鬱艷綠的色彩。項鍊細膩微妙的弧線設計呼應著蜿蜒東流的河岸,最終匯聚於一枚3.01克拉明亮式梨形切割鑽石,而卸下的這枚鑽石更能搭配18K白金鍊單獨配戴。馬眼形切割則源自於女人的笑容,橢圓形由兩端逐漸消失的尖頂構成了女人最美麗的一抹微笑,寶石火光從作品的正中心逐漸地向兩旁蔓延,完全展現出珠寶工藝的深度美學視角。

The Beauty of the Desert

PIAGET has been in favor of taking travel as the theme, beautiful scenes along the journey and the changes of natural things are depicted in the jewelry creations. This time, we’re guided to the desert, an exploration of extraordinary scenes that are beyond your imagination. The brand-new “Golden Oasis” collection of high-class jewelry is the celebration of nature. It’s inspired by 3 themes, Play of Lights, Desert Minerals and Native Bloom. Through whimsical and craft techniques, the exhibition shows the brand’s most recognized gold crafts and gemstones with mellow colors. Play of Lights is inspired by the endless sky over the desert that is covered by dunes and sand waves; from the scene of a bright and scorching hot sunny day to the quiet starry nights, the creations use the glittering and attractive gemstones and gold to present the heaven-like light of purity. The necklace Golden Hour captures the ray at the moment when the sun reaches its highest position; the master of gemstones spent a year acquiring the best diamond representing the golden moment; therefore, the creations are the assembling of brilliant works of jewelry and gold. Desert Minerals chant the life in purity, and it uses the rich colors, marvelous design and exquisite details in their appearance as the style of the theme. The Blue Waterfall Necklace in the collection, it’s an 18K platinum necklace with a pincushion-cut blue diamond weighing 14.61 carats. Whenever the gemstone master of PIAGET mentions the blue diamond from Madagascar, he praises it as the best diamond that he has ever seen in his life. The classic pincushion-cut blue diamond has a color that is superior to other colored diamonds; with its rich color, this diamond is the greatest of all. As to the long drop necklace design paired with gradient colors, it makes the diamond look like a blue lake hidden in the green mountain valley. The Blue Waterfall Necklace presents the design of the pendant necklace and the unique pendant has detachable details made by unique crafting techniques. Such an artful and ingenious touch depicts diverse and lively changes of natural spring water. The last theme, Native Bloom   pays tribute to the unusual charms of each perfect image in natural things. It’s inspired by the flowers that grow in the desert and overcome adversity. The jewelry pieces use the desert flowers in the design with impressive and dazzling colors. The Luxuriant Oasis Necklace of the collection giving out a bright green color hue has a refined design of a curve line that looks like an east flower river that ends at the pear-cut bright diamond weighing 3.01 karat, which can be detached and paired with an 18K platinum necklace. The horse-eye cut diamond originally inspired by a lady’s smile, the oval shapes ending at the tips on both sides is a formation of a woman’s most beautiful smile. The fire in the diamond spread to the sides from the center, it completely presents a deeper aesthetic perspective of the jewelry craft.

發表迴響

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