Boucheron | 春之自然饗宴 藏在經典裡的繆思 Natural Feast of Spring, Design for the Muse

TEXT | Jocelyne Liu

在此春暖花開之際,大自然萬物用百花齊鳴、蝶飛鳥羽讚頌春天,珠寶設計師們將這些美好凝結於寶石中,於是我們便能穿戴上滿身的春意盎然,愉悅迎接新的一年。

In this time of warm spring with flourishing flowers, all organisms are praising the spring via blossoming flowers, dancing butterflies and birds, we are then allowed to wear these spring sentiments on us to pleasantly welcome a new year when jewelry designers fuse these magnificence to the gems.

BOUCHERON 非常喜愛在品牌歷史裡取材,以當代美學、創新工藝技術,以及未曾運用過的新寶石來重塑經典作品,是BOUCHERON的強項也是特色,於是對骨董珠寶情有獨鍾卻又愛走在時尚尖端的珠寶迷來說,這絕對是一個最好的尋寶境地。

問號項鍊因為前所未有的「無搭扣」設計為 BOUCHERON 於1889年時一舉奪下世界博覽會「金獎」,從此以後該作品便不斷推陳出新以花朵、蛇、羽毛等各種題材重新創作,此次最新珠寶系列 Blé d’été 麥穗問號項鍊以「麥穗」為主題,傳達此作物所象徵的富饒、豐收、祝福等等美好含義,在設計線條上又更為輕盈流暢,讓麥穗項鍊更符合現代人力求簡潔易佩戴以及好搭配的生活型態。而另一款Lierre de Paris常春藤問號項鍊可以說是重現十九世紀晚期世人對植物學的熱衷,同時也參入了個人情感,因為常春藤就是品牌於巴黎皇家宮殿(Palais Royal)首家精品店外拱廊下的綠植,伴隨了創辦人菲德列克.寶詩龍先生無數創作歲月。此外,創意總監Claire Choisne還特別將問號轉化延伸至耳際,成為一副不對稱的Lierre de Paris 常春藤祖母綠耳環。另外一件不容錯過的佳作便是 Fleur de Nuit 丹泉石項鍊,主要材質砂金石礦物玻璃(Aventurine glass)的砂金效應,讓雕花花瓣宛如繁星倒影在花間,同時又與樣態真實的鑽石花蕊相應和,完全符合了人們對於黑夜的綺麗幻想。這三件絕佳作品都是過去早已藏在BOUCHERON的經典歷史中,如今則成為珠寶設計師的靈感繆思,讓他們有了豐沛的創作能量。

BOUCHERON loves to obtain inspirations from the brand history, using contemporary aesthetics, innovative workmanship with new gems to re-sculpt classic works, which is a characteristic and expertise to BOUCHERON. Therefore, to jewelry fans who prefer antique jewelry yet also love to stay as the pioneer in fashion, this is no doubt the ideal treasure-hunting land.

The unprecedented “buckle-less” design of the Point d’Interrogation (Question Mark) Necklace has earned the Universal Exposition gold medal for BUCHERON in 1889 and ever since then, the work has constantly been recreated and launched with all types of topics including flower, snake and feather…etc. The latest jewelry collection on Blé d’été Question Mark Necklace is based on the theme of “wheat,” conveying wonderful implications symbolized by this crop, such as abundance, harvest and blessings…etc., further demonstrating light and smooth design lines, thereby allowing the Blé d’été Necklace to conform to the lifestyle of simplicity, easy to wear and matches with everything as pursued by modern people. The other Lierre de Paris Question Mark Necklace can be said to be the reproduction of people’s enthusiasm towards botany in the late period of the 19th century with the addition of personal emotions, as ivy was the plant cultivated under the arc corridor outside of the brand’s first boutique store in Palais Royal, which has accompanied Frédéric Boucheron, the founder, for countless creative years. Moreover, creative director Claire Choisne has especially transformed the question mark and extended it to the ears to make a pair of asymmetric Lierre de Paris earrings paved with emeralds. Another piece of brilliant work not to be missed out is the Fleur de Nuit Tanzanite Necklace, where the aventurescence of the main material of Aventurine Glass allows the carved petals to resemble stars reflecting on the flower, while also corresponding to the vivid diamond stamens, thereby completely conforming to people’s fantasies towards the night. These three pieces of brilliant works were long hidden in the classic history of BOUCHERON, but have rather become the inspirational muses that endow jewelry designers nowadays with copious creative energy.