為客人烹製美味料理，一生專注做一件事，並將其做到極致。日料職人，用十倍苦心，做最突出一個，他是林振昌，廚藝界的鬼才，世人口中的小林師父，今年42歲。店名「都鮨蘭奢待」，意指將料理沉香氣息，注入都鮨內。
Cooking delicious dishes for guests, focusing on doing one thing well in your life, and taking it to the ultimate. This Japanese cuisine chef has given his all to become a most prominent Japanese culinary expert. He is Lin Chenchang, renowned in the culinary world as Master Little Lin. This year he turns 42 years old. The name of his restaurant is “Sushi Ranjatai” meaning treated luxuriously.
天才日料職人
從小喜愛看日本卡通美食，沒有受過正統料理訓練，生於南投，不愛讀書，完全靠熱愛與偷學，國中畢業便到台中當學徒，22歲憑著天賦與自信，自成一格開店。5年前遊歷京都，無意間受到日本料理店「秋山」啟發，一個念頭讓小林師傅萌生從桃園轉身來台北開店，兼具傳統與創新的日式料理，在空間上營造了濃郁的日式風情，餐廳裡是溫暖的原木色，樸實卻高級。一個完美偏執狂打造的品質料理店，追求的是三味一體，即人之味，料理之味和店之味，讓客人五感滿足，在心中留下餘韻，這在小林師傅身上一覽無遺。
精緻減法美學
打破料理制度，做給懂的人吃，沒有冷凍，不要庫存。真正的日料，追求的是食材本身的味道，選用當季時令食材，追求原汁原味，保證食材的新鮮度，刷新人們對日料的味蕾與口感，一切調味作用，都是最大程度地發揮食味。以最簡單的烹飪方式，鮪魚刀法，如削冰淇淋，刀是有弧度的，細微的變化，魚肉和飯粒的服貼度會更好。選用台灣黃檜作為吧台沾板，做完一場就要磨掉，不然會藏污納垢。溫度也是一項重要的調味，熟成魚利用熟成讓魚料增加旨味，在對的時間供應給懂吃的客戶，這就是日料師傅的技術，每道料理都是細緻考究。
重塑日料靈魂
無菜單式料理，堅守傳統的日料風味基礎上做些改變，從開業到現今近十多年，每天菜品幾乎都不一樣，將許多熟悉的食材原味創新搭配，演繹出另外一種風格，碰撞出別樣火花。在採訪之中小林師傅坦言，獨創屬於自己味道的日本餐，一開始會有很多質疑的聲音，「看到客人吃得開心，對我來說也是一種滿足。」而探討美的定義，海螺的鮮味、北海道的生蠔、白酒濃縮，小林師傅擁有一套秘密搭配美學，變化性多元，將各種食材原味腦海表格化，組合成一道道精緻風味料理。
傳承培育新秀
時光的淬煉，最重要的是態度，不僅僅是對於烹飪料理，更是對人生。作為一個草根，靠著自己的多年的摸索與打拼，他呼籲國人吃的美感已經逐漸消失了，期許能培養出懂吃的食客。而回歸本身，料理要如何去呈現更完美，作為自學鬼才，平時喜歡閱讀料理書、食材圖鑑。最美味的純粹，在這浮躁的世界，他計畫著用親切與對食材的講究，由徒弟開設分店，主打烤鰻魚和握壽司，亦是對於日料匠心精神的另一種解讀與延續。
Genius Japanese cuisine Chef
Since I was a child, I have loved watching Japanese cartoon foods. I have not received any orthodox cooking training. Born in Nantou, I didn’t like to read, graduating from junior high school, I went to Taichung as an apprentice. At the age of 22, I opened a shop on my own with talent and confidence. Having visited in Kyoto in 2015, he was inadvertently inspired by the Japanese restaurant “Akiyama”, which compelled Master Kobayashi to move from Taoyuan to open a shop in Taipei with both traditional and innovative Japanese cuisine creating a strong Japanese style in the space for a restaurant with warm wood color, that is simple but high-end. This high quality culinary restaurant is created by a perfect paranoia of pursuing the integration of three flavors, that is, the tastes of the guests, the cooking and of the restaurant. It satisfies all five senses of the guests and leaves a compelling aftertaste in the heart, reflecting all that is Master Little Lin.
The Simplest Pleasures of Life
The cuisine overcomes the traditional cooking system, instead preparing astronomy for people who appreciate it, with no freezing and no stock. Authentic Japanese cuisine pursues the taste of the ingredients. Only seasonal ingredients are selected, while original taste is sought, and freshness of the ingredients is guaranteed, pleasing people’s taste buds with refreshing tastes of Japanese ingredients. All seasoning effects are maximized to give full play to taste. In the simplest way of cooking, or the tuna knife method, which is like cutting ice cream, the knife is curved, and the subtle changes will make the fish and rice more sticky. Taiwan yellow juniper was selected as the dipping plate for the bar. It must be sanded off after finishing each session, otherwise it will hide dirt. Temperature is also an important seasoning, as aged fish uses maturation to increase the flavor of the fish and offer it to customers who know how to eat it at the right time. This represents the skill of the Japanese chef, and each dish must be meticulous.
Reshaping the soul of Japanese gastronomy
The no menu-style cuisine, ensures some changes will have been made but on the basis of adhering to the traditional Japanese flavors. From the opening to the present day, for nearly ten years, the dishes are almost different every day. The original flavors of many familiar ingredients are innovatively matched to create another style and collide to forge different sparks. During the interview, Master Little Lin said frankly that when he created his own taste of Japanese food, there would naturally be many doubts at first. But”seeing customers eating happily is also a great source of satisfaction for me.” While discussing the definition of beauty, the umami taste of conch, Hokkaido oysters, and concentrated liquor, Master Little Lin has a set of secret collocations for aesthetic versatility, and the original taste of various ingredients in mind, are combined into a delicately flavored cuisine for each guest.
Teaching and developing newcomers
For the tempering of time, the most important thing is attitude, not only for cooking, but also in life. At the grassroots, relying on his own years of exploration and hard work, he has found that Taiwanese customers gastronomic aesthetics have gradually disappeared, so he hopes to cultivate diners who will know how to eat. And return to cuisine itself, or how to present the cooking more perfect, as a self-taught expert, he usually likes to read cooking books and food illustrations. In this impetuous world, of the most delicious and pure, he plans to use kindness and special attention to ingredients to open branches by his apprentices, focusing on grilled eel and nigiri sushi, which is another interpretation and continuation of the ingenuity of authentic Japanese ingredients.
INFO | 都鮨蘭奢待(02)2700-0099 /地址: 台北市大安區敦化南路一段295巷10號