TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
With this year coming to an end, 2020 is no doubt a year filled with unsettlement, but to some, it is a chance to reflect and restart. Even after all the challenges and obstacles, we have faith in the fashion industry to return with a brighter shine. How do we make fashion more meaningful? And how should fashion be reevaluated and exceed its limits in the midst of a global pandemic? By reviewing the major fashion events, the grandest runway show is about to begin, so let us take the front row seats and enjoy 2020 in retrospect.
今年因為疫情，時尚界都籠罩在一片愁雲慘淡之下，時尚是否因為疫情而變調? 除了大眾對於時尚兩個字重新審視以及定義外，品牌也致力於翻轉形象並更深入的思考時尚價值。Gucci首當其衝的將時尚不分季退出時裝週體系（seasonless），Gucci創意總監亞歷山德羅米凱萊（Alessandro Michele）為時尚圈投下第一顆震撼彈，也讓人不禁想著，是否時尚可以更加的自由，更加的創意與永續。而在疫情下面臨到的第一場高訂時裝週，首次將時裝週轉向了線上發表，CHANEL以龐克公主的姿態以一分多鐘的數位影片展現 ; Dior則是以概念電影方式建立一個神祕魔幻的迷你超現實世界 ; Valentino 創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli在艱鉅的時日而改變的數位大秀卻真實的讓大家感受到了所謂純粹的時尚本質。疫情下，高訂線上發表的開端可以說是不負眾望的給了大家一個嶄新的詮釋。
Rediscovery During A Pandemic
In the wake of coronavirus, a cloud of gloom looms over our fashion industry — is it possible for a global pandemic to drastically change fashion? Besides the public’s reevaluation towards fashion and its meaning, the brands are also working on creating a new impression with a more indepth meaning. Being a first, Gucci abandoned the ritual of seasonalities and announced its decision to go seasonless. The brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, surprised the industry with his bold decision and opened up a question: can fashion embody more freedom, creativity, and endurance than it already has? Meanwhile, amidst the pandemic, this year’s Haute Couture Fashion Week took on a digital format for the very first time. Chanel brought back the 70’s punk princess look via its one minute short film, while Dior presented its new collection through a conceptual film creating a surreal world filled with fantastical miniatures. Valentino’s creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, was able to accomodate to the special condition and created a hybrid show combining the digital and physical to express the purest features of fashion. Despite the ongoing global pandemic, Haute Couture’s virtual presentation still established a brand new interpretation without disappointment.
時尚圈更極力實踐實質的永續改變，從數位時代的演變和趨勢下，快時尚一詞成了近幾年的購買指標，也讓一線精品需要滿足新世代的胃口而壓迫著推陳出新，現在永續時尚的崛起也讓人重新思考是否需要這些緊湊的浪費，讓慢時尚取代快速購物。對應上這幾年開始流行膠囊衣櫥（Capsule Wardrobe以及Minimalist Closet）這個單詞，意思是如膠囊般濃縮自己的衣櫃，留下一些經典必備單品來組合出更多的搭配，現今可以說是越來越懂得Less is more這個道理。Gucci推出首個可持續系列OFF THE GRID，選用再生、有機與生物基材料而製成的再生尼龍。另外，Prada不只是將2020秋冬男裝系列使用再生尼龍外，更是致力發表從明年開始再也沒有Re-Nylon這個系列，因為Prada的所有尼龍單品全數皆為再生尼龍，把再生變成了自然意識形態。
Preserve To Sustain
For years, the fashion industry had been working hard to put the idea of sustainability into practice. With the digital world’s evolving and changing trends, “fast fashion” had become the norm for shopping, pressuring high fashion brands to pick up their pace to fulfill the new generation’s appetite and style. Now, with the rise of sustainable fashion, people start to reconsider whether or not “fast” outweighs “wasteful” and the possibility of a full convert to slow, sustainable fashion. Perfectly fitting the trend of capsule wardrobe and a minimalist closet — meaning to condense your closet like a capsule and to only keep the essential classics — the “less is more” motto becomes a popular concept. For the first time, Gucci introduces OFF THE GRID, a new sustainable collection using only regenerated nylon made of recycled, organic, and bio-based materials. Meanwhile, not only did Prada change its 2020 Fall/Winter menswear collection to only using regenerated nylon, but the brand also announced the cancellation of the Re-Nylon collection. Why? Simply because Prada will be replacing all of its nylon pieces with regenerated nylon, a bold statement making sustainability the new normal.
就在今年10月Kenzo創辦人高田賢三染疫81歲逝世，傳奇人生落幕令人不勝唏噓，讓人連想起今年一連串的噩耗，包括了今年年初意外驟逝的NBA傳奇球星Kobe Bryant，以及大家最喜歡的國標舞女神劉真以及台灣藝人小鬼的離世，國內外眾星走下人生舞台，當大家籠罩在悲痛當中，疫情下的防疫寶寶潮像是今年生機的一線曙光，包含突然驚喜宣布懷孕的Nicki Minaj 和Katy Perry，還有時尚超模Gigi Hadid、Karlie Kloss維密超模Romee Strijd、 Elsa Hosk和辣模Emily Ratajkowski，以及時尚界的icon包含法國女人的指標Jeanne Damas、義大利網紅始祖Chiara和丹麥時尚教主Pernille Teisbaek 都相繼再今年公布喜訊，時尚界還沒停止的震驚與悲傷，就又感性的擁抱新生命的誕生，人生或許就是如此，懂得學會放下過去並且擁抱新的未來，祝福每個新生命的誕生，緬懷今年來不及說再見那天上耀眼發光的星。
A New Lease On Life
Earlier this October, Kenzo’s founder, Kenzo Takada had passed away at the age of 81, leaving the world in shock and disbelief. The closing curtain of the designer’s legendary life reminded us of all the losses this year: a true NBA icon, Kobe Byrant, our favorite ballroom dancer, Serena Liu, Taiwanese artist with the biggest heart, Alien Huang, and many more.
While the world was trapped in this collective grievance, unable to accept the departure of our favorite stars, the newborns of the next generation became an emblem of hope and life, a silver lining reminding us not to lose faith. Celebrities of this quarantine baby bloom include first time moms Nicki Minaj and Katy Perry, supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss, Emily Ratajkowski, and Victoria Secret models Romee Strijid and Elsa Hosk. Fashion icons from all around the world are also becoming mothers, such as French women’s stature, Jeanne Damas, Italian fashion entrepreneur, Chiara, and Danish influencer, Pernille Teisbaek. While the fashion industry is still recovering from the sorrow of loss, we are also embracing the arrival of new life with sentimentality. Perhaps that is the lesson of life, to learn to let go of the past and welcome the new future. So let us celebrate the coming of every newborn with blessing, and remember the fallen stars that had bid farewell but still left a shining sparkle that will live on forever in our heart.
舊去新來，或許有些人會感到惋惜，有些則是欣喜，而有些搭配則是讓人耳目一新，在更迭交替如此快速的時尚圈裡，時尚輪替像是坐上了翹翹板，沒有人知道接下來會發生什麼樣的變化，或許這也是時尚最迷人的地方。也因為前段時間Kenzo創始人高田賢三的辭世，讓Kenzo新創意總監Felipe Oliveira Baptista回到矚目的焦點下，期待著他能帶領 Kenzo走下另一個傳奇。繼Clare Waight Keller四月宣告離開Givenchy創意總監一職後，Givenchy在今年六月宣布Matthew M. Williams接任新創意總監，身為時尚潮人都愛的美國設計師Matthew M. Williams將帶領充滿時尚經典的Givenchy進入現代而包容的新時代 。
而在Dior Men表現相當突出的Kim Jones，近月宣佈成為Fendi 女裝高級訂製時裝、成衣與皮草系列的創意總監，而Fendi 家族第三代傳人Silvia Venturini Fendi則是繼續設計包款配飾以及男裝系列，我們將可以在2021秋冬女裝系列看到由Kim Jones加入後的第一場大秀，不知道Kim Jones能為擁有美麗歷史蘊含的義大利老牌做出什麼樣的改變，實在讓人期待不已。Prada 2021春夏大秀則是以雙創意總監的方式登場，也是在二月宣佈加入品牌團隊的Raf Simons第一場與Miuccia Prada的線上時尚大秀，以發佈影片的方式在秀後進行一場問答座談，兩位創意總監在鏡頭面前侃侃而談，將作品理念以及想法像是朋友聚會般告訴觀眾，也讓我們在這一場《對話Dialogue》主題的大秀中找到更舒適以及獨特的觀賞方式。除了創意總監的更迭，LVMH 收購Tiffany & Co.的驚人消息也為今年的時尚震撼彈，其中蜿蜒曲折的收購之路與精品世紀聯姻破局更成為大家的輿論話題，最後也在今年年底宣告和解，沒有意外將會於2021年落槌定案，無論如何有新的改變總是好的，相信並且期許接下來的新年中時尚界會有不一樣的美妙光景。
Reset And Renew
The old is always replaced by the new. Some may feel regret, some may feel joy, while others are excited about the new collaborations and upcoming changes. In this fast-paced, high-elimination rate industry, this rotation is like a seesaw. No one knows precisely what’s coming up next and perhaps this unpredictability is the beauty of fashion. With the passing of Kenzo Takada, the spotlight had returned to Kenzo’s new creative director, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, with high hopes and aspirations towards him to lead the brand into creating another legendary era. Meanwhile, after Clare Waight Keller’s resignation, Givenchy appointed its new artistic director, Matthew M. Williams. As an American designer who had successfully captured the cultural zeitgeist, Williams will sure be able to take the classics of Givenchy to the next level. Excelling with great work at Dior Men, Kim Jones had recently become Fendi’s new creative director of the women’s Haute Couture, ready-to-wear, and fur collection while Silvia Venturini Fendi, a third-generation member of the Italian brand, will continue as creative director for accessories and menswear. With Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection becoming the first presentation after Jones’s join, the industry is looking forward to seeing the changes he’s going to bring to the Italian brand of rich, historical beauty. At Prada’s Spring/Summer 2021 virtual fashion show, Raf Simmons made his debut as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada, the anticipation of the year since the announcement back in February. Taken in the form of a Q&A session, the post-show interview unveiled the two directors’ values and ideologies as they chatted like friends and gave us a unique and comfortable viewing experience of the “Dialogue” themed presentation. Besides the changes in creative directors, the ultimate surprise of the year is definitely the news of LVMH successfully acquiring Tiffany & Co.. The complicated history and rumors are now settled with this agreement between the world’s leading luxury group and the global luxury jeweler. In the end, change is always for the better. As we wave goodbye to 2020, let’s march into the new year with faith and aspiration as an excitingly brand new future for fashion awaits.