TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
In our previous issue, we reviewed the major fashion events and how the industry responded to this difficult time with amazing creativity and retrospection. Right when everyone thought minimalism and natural, low-saturated tones would be the trend of 2021, several brands caught us off guard with a surprise: surrealism. The new SS21 collections invite the audience to detach from reality and enter the abstract, fantastical realm created by the artistic directors; perhaps pulling away can inspire more creativity, beauty, and artistic forms. So let’s dance! In this marvelous dream world and allow the dazzling, complex designs painted with saturated colors to become the center of everyone’s attention.
2021春夏時裝秀Versace帶大家來到了深海神殿世界，一窺梅杜莎的時尚美學。在奔放的色彩與張揚的性感間來回舞動，像是跟著水流般在最深處展開一場時髦的party，好似回到了Versace那最浮誇且豪放不羈的年代。Donatella Versace打造了一個性感誘惑又具休閒運動感的超現實維度世界，從秀上的開頭以具飽和感的螢光繽紛色彩點綴於深海感的深藍、黑，而繽紛色系交雜著現代黑白圓點線條感，也像是光彩濃烈的墨西哥色彩。荷葉感的波浪狀 ruffle 褶飾，隨著步伐上下彈動，更像是美人魚般與海底動物，既充滿自然元素又充滿女性妖嬈風情。
Deep Dive into an Aquatic Wonderland
In the SS21 ready-to-wear collection, Versace takes us to the mythical Atlantis and gives us a peek into Medusa’s fashion aesthetics. Diving into the deep waters to attend a grand celebration and swimming with the free-spirited colors, the outspoken allure—it is as if we have arrived at Versace’s most extravagant and unrestrained era. Donatella Versace created this surreal, multi-dimensional world that is provocative and leisurely. She starts off the show with the oceanic navy blue and black garments embellished with neon hues, the dazzling colors weaved into monochromic line designs. Blazing Mexican colors bouncing on the wavy flounce-hem ruffles, as if mirroring the graceful movements of a mermaid and sea creatures to showcase the natural elements and this luscious femininity.
Moschino的創意總監Jeremy Scott帶來了如此觀點「當世界似乎沿著接縫分裂，新事物的內部做工細節被全然揭露。」現今的時尚似乎更多的是取決於創意內容，是不是除了更要懂得設計服裝以外，創意的比重已經遠遠大過於服裝本身，這點，也正好是擁有童趣與跳耀思維風格的Jeremy Scott一個很大的優勢，包含了前幾季秀上的浮誇的瑪麗安東尼皇后，猶如行走的三層生日蛋糕般 ; 又或是一場畢卡索式的藝術饗宴，Jeremy Scott一直很懂得抓住這個世代的眼球，每一次的秀都可以創造話題與版面。
A Puppet-Sized Fashion Show
“We won’t call it a fresh start so much as it is a new start. Inner-workings are being laid bare; how these mechanics exist and evolve will change.” This, is Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott’s perspective on 2021.
Nowadays, fashion seems to place more emphasis on creative content and not merely on clothing design. Creativity had gradually outweighed the garment itself and this trend happens to work to Jeremy Scott’s advantage. Youthful and dynamic, his signature style is exemplified by his previous shows—Marie Antoinette’s glamorous, three-tier birthday cake, a Picasso-inspired artistic jubilee—and proves how he never fails to become the talk of the show by becoming the center of every spotlight. In the SS21 collection, the focus is not only on an unprecedented runway show brought together by the marionettes and puppeteers, but also on the intricate details and impeccable craftsmanship of the miniature clothing. For the first time, Moschino demonstrates practicality and diligence in its design. So perhaps this mini fashion show is not a surreal representation, but the perfect invitation to escape reality and set foot into the fantastical, pocket-sized realm of the marionettes.
在2021春夏滿是自然原色與極簡主義時，Dolce & Gabbana完全給了春夏一個嶄新且截然不同的玩味色彩，Domenico Dolce和Stefano Gabbana展現了西班牙、阿拉伯與諾曼人的不同層次與不同文化。最一開始之時，想著在這已經夠混沌的一年，到底還要多繁複多複雜呢? 但就在充滿藝大利西西里色彩與文化的拼接色塊與圖騰背景下，模特一個個揮灑著藝大利工藝與文化的裁縫與色彩，融為一體讓人不禁掉入魔幻色彩的國度，像是逃離現實般被視覺衝擊所吸引，那既和諧又激發起無限風格之美感。是阿，誰說疫情之下只能有一種面貌? 金色與螢光點綴，拼接色調牛仔褲與立體花型復古頭飾在秀場上呼應相襯，色彩果然是最好的療癒。
The Blazing Colors of Sicily
While many SS21 collections collectively settle on natural colors and minimalism, Dolce & Gabbana decides to take on a different approach. Together, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana explore with brand new color coordination to express the dynamic cultures of the Spanish, the Arabs, and the Normans. At first, the complex idea may seem overwhelming in such an unsettling year. However, under the patchwork of Sicilian hues and layers upon layers of cultural tokens, the models march on stage armored with the Italian artisanal culture, luring us into an enchanted kingdom and simultaneously leading us away from reality with a visual surprise. A beauty that is harmonious but awe-inspiring—who said we are to be confined by the limitations of a pandemic? With a dash of gold, a stroke of neon, let the patchwork jeans echo the floral brocades and allow the colorful spirit to be your best remedy.
Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow 玩家登錄中
走在巴黎街頭的Balenciaga 2021夏季秀場致力發揚永續時尚外，設計師Demna Gvasalia更是強調男女可混穿的無性別風格，在暗夜的巴黎展開了一場帶未來與科技感的獨特時尚美學。另外，Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列就這樣跑在最前頭，隆重登場了! 以超現實的虛擬電玩遊戲，名為《後世：明日世界》（Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow）打造了一個2031年為背景的未來國度，延續春夏的永續發展，並加入更多的科技元素。不只是打造了一個意象式的超現實時空，更是直接將科幻變成現實，有如親眼看見了未來般的注入在我們的生活中，拿起手機或是打開電腦就可以身入其境。
“我討厭時尚電影（fashion film）這概念，我覺得那非常過時。 — Demna Gvasalia”
“I hate the idea of fashion film,” Demna Gvasalia, designer of Balenciaga, says directly, “I find it very dated.”
Player Ready for Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow
Against the Paris backdrop, Balenciaga’s SS21 collection not only emphasizes on sustainable fashion, but Gvasalia also takes it one step further by making most pieces unisex—kick-starting a futuristic and tech-centric aesthetic in the dusky City of Love. Meanwhile, the brand also launches its FW21 collection by taking us on an adventure to Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow, a video game set in 2031. Showcasing the new collection in virtual reality, Balenciaga continues the concept of sustainability through technical elements. Not just constructing an allegorical dimension, Afterworld turns fantasy into reality—an incorporation of futuristic features into the quotidian with the easy accessibility through phones and computers for a full-on, immersive experience.
想像著跳舞時肢體上和服裝上的皺褶，像是可以推看他人過去般。Maison Margiela 2021春夏時裝系列以超現實的暗黑詭譎角度，幻想著19世紀南美婚禮的照片與探戈舞姿，舞吧!舞吧! John Galliano 將探戈的神韻刻劃成一場月光舞姿，展現獨特氛圍的戲劇張力與幻境感。在這個影像新時代，John Galliano延續7月的秋季服裝推出了全新 S.W.A.L.K. II，像是服裝製作紀錄片又像是電影，訴說著靈感故事與魅惑視覺，並延用上一季開始使用的濕透效果與Co-Ed白標系列不分男女的中性款式，為2021春夏締造出精采融合與解構的新思維。
Unveiling a Genderless Crimson
Imagine if you could sense the lives people had lived, through the way they dance, or the creases worn into their clothes. From an eccentrically surreal perspective, Maison Margiela presents the SS21 ready-to-wear collection by reinterpreting tango dancing and the South American wedding photographs of the 19th century. Cinematic, peculiar, and ravishing—John Galliano transforms the essence of tango into a dance soirée under the moonlight. In this new era of moving images, he continues his July chronicle of the fall collection and launches the sequel, S.W.A.L.K. II. Call it a fashion documentary or a film, it tells the story of visceral inspirations with an alluring visual. By carrying on the “wet look” of last season and the genderless Co-Ed collection, Galliano successfully creates a new hybrid of merging and deconstructing for the spring and summer collections of 2021.