FASHION

尋古典之夏 In Search of Summertime Classics

2021春夏季高級訂製系列 SS21 Haute Couture

高級訂製服裝週在男裝週之後悄悄揭開了序幕,面對疫情品牌也不再是手忙腳亂,對於一場結合著發想理念和匠心傳承的高級訂製服裝週,品牌帶著絕妙的對策,發揚著精緻工藝的永恆價值。Chanel以充滿女性韻味的沙龍前身為靈感,打造一場宛如私人夢幻庭園的婚禮 ; Dior再次以魔幻意象投入塔羅牌的神秘氛圍 ; Kim Jones於FENDI 的第一場高級訂製服系列,以二次元模糊的小說《奧蘭多》作為發想靈感,在雌雄難分的柔美與陽剛中綻放 ; Valentino在創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli的華麗與繁複薰陶下,跳脫了浮誇,結合了大膽輪廓與極簡藝術,時尚詩人Pierpaolo Piccioli總不按牌理出牌,挑戰著大膽的審美衝突。

Quietly kicked off after the men’s fashion week, the Haute Couture fashion week regained its steps to face the changes brought by the pandemic. Combining inspiring concepts and this enduring ingenuity, high fashion brands had taken excellent countermeasures that embodied the timeless value of exquisite craftsmanship. Inspired by the feminine salons, Chanel’s show was like a private wedding in a fantastical village, while Dior channeled the mystical spirits of tarot cards. Meanwhile, Kim Jones chose Haute Couture to make his FENDI debut and used Virginia Woolf’s Orlando as his key inspiration—a show that married the feminine sensibility with masculine charisma. And lastly, under Pierpaolo Piccioli’s lead, Valentino redefined its usual flair and complexity with the combination of bold silhouettes and minimalistic art. Once again, Piccioli surprised us by opening the door to the future of fashion by creating an undaunting clash of aesthetics.

Dior心靈塔羅牌

塔羅牌的神秘氛圍,好似一場無止盡的深淵,跳進去就再也出不來,周旋在魔幻國度,漣漪起想像。從上一季Dior 2020秋冬高訂,逃離了疫情的困惑與艱難,以數位方式帶領大家沈醉於神話與慢節奏的精緻浪漫想像中。Maria Grazia Chiuri 再度與義大利知名導演 Matteo Garrone透過時尚與電影的交融,描繪出塔羅牌的奇幻角色,展演 45 套全新服裝,並製作長達15分鐘的《The Tarot Castle》概念電影。

迪奧先生熱衷於占卜,並對命運徵兆無比癡迷,現在的處境猶如時代的輪迴,也許我們不像那個年代經歷戰爭的苦痛,但隨著疫情肆虐著全球,逃避與脫離現實,成了人們內心一小部分的依靠,Dior抓住了此想法,將塔羅牌視為打開神秘世界的鑰匙,藉此探索未知事物並大膽審視潛在內心深處的自我意識。電影其中,我們看到了塔羅牌中的女祭司(High Priestess)、皇后(Empress)、正義(Justice)及愚者(Fool)等角色,在猶如催化劑般的音樂下,跟著角色的服裝擺動下緩緩陷入,蕾絲鑲嵌手繪裝飾、金色天鵝絨蘊藏星座元素、點點繁星灑落細膩的緹花面料,五彩斑斕的羽毛綻放於斗篷大衣,栩栩如生的 3D 立體效果在概念電影下令人著迷,如癡如醉。

Dior’s Spiritual Tarot Cards

The mysterious aura of tarot cards lures like a bottomless abyss, a mesmerizing magical realm that creates ripples of imagination—once you enter, there is no resurfacing. In last season’s FW21 Haute Couture show, Dior escaped the hardship and confusion of the pandemic and led us into a mythical, romantic imagination with a digital runway show. This year, Maria Grazia Chiur once again worked with the renowned Italian director, Matteo Garrone, to produce a 15-minute concept film, “The Tarot Castle.” With the collaboration of fashion and cinema, the movie portrays the fantastical characters appearing on tarot cards and presents 45 brand new looks exclusive to the collection.

Monsieur Dior was a huge believer of fortune-telling and was fascinated with reading the signs of destiny. Perhaps we are way past the pains and suffering of warfare, but this global pandemic is like a reincarnation of history—an escape from reality becomes a secret remedy that everyone yearns for. Dior captured this desire and chose tarot cards as the key to a mystical realm, a safe haven for us to explore the unknown and to examine our deepest consciousness. In the film, we see iconic characters such as the High Priestess, Empress, Justice, and Fool, slow-dancing along with the catalytic melodies. Follow the iconic figures sublimated to celebrate the art of weaving—lace inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet adorned with elements of the zodiac sign, jacquards sprinkled with stars, capes with multicolored feathers—and enjoy the true-to-life 3D concept film that invites you into Dior’s medieval fantasia.

FENDI穿越奧蘭多

想到Orlando奧蘭多,你會先想到什麼?是俊俏臉龐悠然坐在樹下看著書的他、單手拿著書在充滿書香氣息的房間裡的他,又或是宛如凡爾賽皇后般的蛋糕蓬裙與脂粉的她。Kim Jones於FENDI推出首個高級訂製服系列,將穿越時空與二次元模糊的小說作為這個系列的中心主題,雌雄難分的柔美與陽剛流淌在系列的每一件華美服飾之間,除了舉辦高訂秀外,同時還舉辦了由 Peter Harrington Rare Books 的 Sammy Jay 所策劃的期間限定珍本圖書手稿展。

在秀中可以看到Kim Jones的超大號招力與影響力,出場的模特與藝人包含Demi Moore、Kate Moss與女兒Lila與好久沒在秀上看到的超模Cara Delevingne,緩緩地踩著步伐,優雅自信的走進玻璃陳列櫥窗中,把櫥窗變成了自己的房間,自在的翻起書、凝視著遠方,每個面向都像是看見了奧蘭多的樣子。而每套秀服也如同奧蘭多般,猶如穿梭在幾個世紀之間,可以自由的變換不同的性別。

Fendi’s Transcendencethrough Orlando

What comes to mind when you first hear the name Orlando? Is it the handsome boy who sits under the tree reading, the pondering intellect pacing around the study, or the queen of Versaille wearing a layered skirt and beautiful makeup? His first venture into FENDI women’s Haute Couture, Kim Jones focused on making time traveling and the blurring of the two dimensional space as the central themes of this collection. No single piece could be defined as feminine or masculine, tender or virile, as he designed each piece with this free flow of gender. Besides the couture show, he also presented a literary exhibition curated by Sammy Jay of Peter Harrington Rare Books that showcased an array of rare, hand printed manuscripts.

From the SS21 show, it wasn’t hard to see Kim Jones’s appeal and influence in the industry. His cast of models included models and celebrities such as Demi Moore, Kate Moss and her daughter Lila, and Cara Delevingne, who hadn’t made her appearance on runway in a while. With slow steps, they walked among the glass maze with elegance and confidence. Making each window display their own room, they flipped through the pages with leisure or glanced at the faraway distance—it was like every look became a reflection of Orlando. Switching between different centuries, each look echoed with the coed Orlando that fluctuated between the two genders with freedom and no restraint.

Valentino時間法則

刪繁就簡,這次Valentino高訂系列柔化了我們的視覺。創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli所說的真實且純粹的美,都讓Pierpaolo執掌的高訂秀像是任性的藝術饗宴般,不跟隨流行只創造出屬於自己的審美,我的國度我自己主宰。此次也因為疫情的緣故以線上方式播出,選址於義大利羅馬科隆納宮(Galleria Colonna),在Massive Attack樂團的配樂背景之下,一套套高訂秀服就此展開。靈感來自創意總監 Pierpaolo Piccioli 與英國藝術家 Robert Del Naja 將古老馬雅曆的「時間法則」變成一場大秀。隨著音樂響起,單純以廓形方式烘托高訂服的純淨與簡約,剝除繁覆的裝飾和印花,模特兒踩著極高跟鞋,透過亮色系的色彩點亮重點,將修長的輪廓刻畫在這一季視覺中。另外,更是可以看到工藝技術與傳承的結晶,像是服裝上的扭結細節,前幾季可以看到應用在包款配飾上的手工縫製玫瑰花瓣轉至服裝上,立體花瓣隨著模特兒們台步步伐重生。

Pierpaolo Piccioli此次還有另一個創舉,男裝風格也納入高訂系列的設計中,看不到太過陽剛的氣質,反而是模糊了性別界線,將無性別時尚加入於其中。沒有界限沒有束縛的Pierpaolo Piccioli像是位吟遊詩人,總是可以帶給大家滿腹創意和藝術激盪。

Valentino’s Law of Time

Abandoning complexity and aiming for simplicity, Valentino’s Haute Couture collection softened our visualization. Artistic Director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s advocacy for this true and pure beauty turned his Couture show into a capricious art feast that only followed his own sense of beauty and no one else’s—we are the only sovereign of our own kingdom. Presented on digital platforms due to the pandemic, the show took place at the opulent Sala Grande of the Galleria Colonna in Italy. With the band Massive Attack’s background music, an array of artistic couture pieces began to unravel. In dialogue with British artist Robert Del Naj, Piccioli’s “Code Temporal” was inspired by the ancient Roman and Mayan calendar. As the music started to play, the minimalist silhouette stripped away all the excessive embellishments and print and echoed with the couture garb’s purity and simplicity. To contrast the voluminous features, the models balanced on sky-high heels with fiery hues that emphasized this season’s slender visualization. Meanwhile, the collection also offered a detailed display of the craftsman’s impeccable skills with the twisted fabric and last season’s handwoven rose petals transformed into clothing that came to life on stage with their 3D shapes.

And then Piccioli surprised us with another curveball—he included menswear features into his Haute Couture collection. Nothing too masculine, but instead, he blurred the lines distinguishing genders by adding unisex fashion. Unable to be restrained by the shackles of convention, Piccioli is just like a wandering poet that never fails to bring us an unending collection of creativity and clashing of art.

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