FASHION

療癒意象 A Therapeutic Construct

創意,是不停的迸發,在不同的時空與不一樣的考驗中,激盪出專屬於當下的獨特火花。在疫情尚未緩解之前,時尚品牌相對應的做出許多的對策,除了更加注重環保、永續議題外,心靈的療癒與舒適感受更是為疫情其間為心靈底層中注入了治癒良藥。童年的稚嫩回憶、藝術的感官衝擊以及劇作的發表體現,都是在艱難的時日最好的靈感療癒,看看品牌們在年初的開端以不同的面貌演繹出獨特時尚創意。

Creativity is all about this non-stop production of ideas, that clashes with one another to generate sparks exclusive to the moment, regardless of the different times and challenges. In the wake of the coronavirus, fashion brands had responded to the pandemic with various countermeasures. Besides environmental protection and sustainability, creating a remedy for the soul and this comfort for the body had become a therapeutic way to get through this time of unsettlement. The best childhood memories, art’s clashing of the five senses, and the expression presented by cinema and drama—all of which becomes a soulful remedy for this especially difficult period. In the beginning of 2021, let us take a look at how each brand manifests its own fashion creativity with a variety of different features.

舒適感受

舒適感受成為了在疫情期間的時尚熱門關鍵字,一股「Comfort is the best fashion style」風潮就此展開,Home day look也成為了現在穿搭的指標。Jacquemus在疫情間推出了家居服系列並與加拿大SSENSE電商合作 ; Dior在去年年底推出了家居服裝Chez Moi系列,Fendi 和 Versace在Holiday系列中同樣都推出了睡袍以及各種家居生活小物。品牌抓住了趨勢出了家居系列商品外,在2021春夏秀場也可以看到許多品牌以舒適潔淨的白與溫和的米色、褐色,各種充滿生命力的自然色系,打造一個既溫暖與療癒的視覺饗宴。以材質與簡約剪裁植入人心的Max Mara 在2021春夏系列當中將舒適與文藝復興的美學元素結合,柔軟的的羊絨長大衣、匠心剪裁的西裝、質樸的府綢襯衫融合了新廓形,再現十六世紀肖像畫中的復古風情。簡約優雅的 Jil Sander將材質帶入了更多的透視元素,像是柔軟的紗與冰涼的緞面,不僅柔化了服裝的輪廓,更是令觸感更具親密感受。在Daniel Lee帶領下的 Bottega Veneta 以家庭意象為主題打造2021春季系列「一號衣櫥」,期望貼近一般的日常,像是純色系的老奶奶鉤織毛衣、療癒色系的薰衣草紫色與粉嫩色、像是地毯的厚重針織,都像是在建構一個家的形象,一個舒適安心的親暱安全感。

Stay Comfy at Home

Amidst this global pandemic and with the rising trend of “comfort is the best fashion style,” the home day look became the most popular style to follow. Jacquemus collaborated with SSENSE to launch the exclusive loungewear line, while Dior introduced its first capsule collection, Chez Moi, entirely dedicated to loungewear. Fendi and Versace included nightgowns and other home accessories in their Holiday collection. Besides having acutely captured what’s on trend with the launch of home goods, these brands also utilized the clean white colors, gentle beige and brown, and the lively earthy tones—all together creating a warming and therapeutic visual feast. Best known for its minimalist tailoring, Max Mara combined the beauty of the Renaissance with comfort in its SS21 collection. The soft cashmere coat, the intricately tailored blazer, and the poplin shirts with a new silhouette design recreated the vintage style of a 16th century painting. Simple but elegant, JIL SANDER chose materials to create a see-through effect. By using fabrics such as the soft sheer or the refreshing satin, not only did it soothe the sharp lines, but it also created a more intimate touch. On the other hand, Daniel Lee channeled his inspiration from the idea of family to design Bottega Veneta’s SS21 show, “Salon 0,” in the hopes of getting closer with the quotidian. A grandmother’s monochromatic crochet sweater, therapeutic colors of lavender purple and pastel pink, and thick-gauge yarns—each element came together to construct the image of a family, a safe haven that is comfortable and intimate.

童心未泯

「今時今日,大家都渴望能見到令人心溫暖的美事。」LOEWE 創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 說到。童年的回憶就像是深埋在庸碌日常底下的渴望,似乎像是打開存放已久的玩具盒、開啟回憶的日記本般,將最真摯的情感以及精靈奇妙世界鑰匙打開,進入過往的童貞世界。擁有豐富歷史底蘊的時尚品牌與童年熱愛的卡通、動畫聯名,不斷的創新與重組,像是在述說著獨特堅毅的職場大人們也是有可愛的一面。今年年初包含了 LOEWE 與吉卜力工作室代表作《龍貓》聯名,從角色出發,突顯出動畫主題與特色 ; GUCCI 則是與調皮可愛的哆啦A夢融入一系列單品之中,誰的童年沒有可以變出各種道具的哆啦A夢呢? Coach 與 Disney Mickey Mouse x Keith Haring最強聯名,除了有童年最受歡迎的米奇外,也與新普普藝術家Keith Haring重新詮釋Mickey Mouse插畫。

A Child at Heart

“There is a natural longing for heartwarming feelings right now,” Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s creative director, stated in one of his interviews. Childhood memories are like the earnest desire buried deep within our daily hustle. Like reopening your favorite toy box, revisiting your old diaries, we unlock the fantastical realm of fairies with our most genuine emotions and travel down memory lane, back to our childhood. With a long history, many luxury fashion brands launched collaborations with different animated films and cartoons—symbolizing the playful side of each hardworking, independent working adult. Earlier this year, LOEWE worked with Studio Ghibli’s “My Neighbor Totoro” and introduced the exclusive capsule collection inspired by the iconic characters by highlighting the animation theme and distinguished features. Meanwhile, the jocular and cute Doraemon joined GUCCI for the brand’s Epilogue collection—who doesn’t love the cat-type robot with all kinds of secret gadgets? Back with another Disney capsule collection, Coach brought in American artist, Keith Haring, for one of the most anticipated collaborations. Together, our childhood favorite, Mickey Mouse, and Haring’s illustrations became a brand new interpretation of the iconic cartoon.

藝術饗宴

透過藝術家的獨到想法,將擁有優雅視覺的 Lady Dior 重塑出屬於每個藝術家不同的形象,以及他們想傳達出的概念。我們可以在藝術饗宴下,將一切拋開,把思想和心靈丟給感性,連結與藝術的感官認知。Dior與多位藝術家透過雕塑藝術創作打造Lady Dior As Seen By藝術展,即便已經順利落幕,藝術的氣息氛圍,還是值得一再細細品味。其中,藝術家安潔莉卡·勒費弗爾以特殊材質蟬翼紗創作Lady Dior藝術作品,以清透感半透明的全白,像是在描述變化多端的千萬世界,顯得虛幻不真實,在潛意識下漸漸遠離了當代的觀感。出生於泰國的拉塔納·薩利則是以不鏽鋼材質,以鋼筋將Lady Dior形體形塑重組般,將Lady Dior的籐格紋紋理反映出繁華城市的結構。藝術與Lady Dior的結合,除了是擁有以外更是欣賞無價的藝術之美。另外,Lady Dior在早春也推出了以義大利小鎮燈光圖騰的風格包款,更是在寓意著、Lady Dior像是多變化的精靈,翻轉了印象中的原有定義。

Grand Celebration for Art

Through the artist’s unique perspective, the reinterpretation of the graceful Lady Dior became expressions of different artistic concept and the story each artist wishes to tell. In this grand feast of art, abandon all thoughts and allow our minds and soul to be embraced by sensitivity, our sensory to be in sync with art. Worked with artists from all around the world, Dior designed the exclusive Lady Dior As Seen By exhibition. Though the art exhibition had already ended, the artistic atmosphere is still worthy of revisiting. Amidst all the given carte blanche, French artist Angélique Lecaille chose the special garment organdie to create her own Lady Dior bag. Clean, white, and semi see-through, her work expressed the ever-changing world and its unrealistic illusory that drifted away from the modern perception in the subconscious mind. Meanwhile, Thai artist, Rattana Salee, used stainless steel to reshape the structure of the Lady Dior bag and reflect the thriving Bangkok city through the iconic Cannage pattern. The combination of art and Lady Dior transcended into an appreciation of all these priceless artworks. Moreover, Lady Dior also launched the brand new cruise collection for 2021—reimagining the radiant landscapes of southern Italy with flamboyant totems and sculpted leatherwork, it transformed Lady Dior into this ever-changing genie that cannot be defined by any static stereotype.

身歷其境

從2020年的高訂時裝週開始,大秀結合數位,以線上發表系列大作已成為了一種趨勢。用第三人稱的角度去感受品牌們想傳達的概念以及想法,以電影美學的方式呈現,包含了微電影、概念電影、短片等劇作來傳達出創意總監在這系列中想構思的訊息。Burberry隆重推出了節慶微電影《心春由你》,由品牌大使周冬雨與宋威龍演繹出探索未知與擁抱大自然的感官連結,身穿著Burberry格紋經典單品的周冬雨,在微電影中融合著大自然的綠與藍,特別的是將帶有禮讚佳節色彩的紅、黃、黑與白融合完美的注入在這次系列當中,經典標誌TB也融入了牛年佳節氣息,看似越發用色大膽與潮味的Burberry在微電影中完美融合了清新元素,周冬雨以細膩與惆悵的口吻將觀眾帶入了濃烈的情緒,導演曾國祥更是開啟了五官的所有知覺,讓這次的佳節微電影染上了一抹舒心與暢意。

An Immersive Experience

Ever since 2020’s Haute Couture fashion week, runway shows have incorporated digital features, making virtual presentations and online launch events the trend. Feel the brand concept from a third person point of view, and understand each artistic director’s message behind the collection through cinematic expressions such as theatrical art, microfilm, concept film, short film, and more. Dedicated to this festive season, Burberry released “A New Awakening,” a microfilm starring brand ambassadors Zhou Dongyu and Song Weilong, actors who successfully expressed the sensory connection between exploring the unknown and embracing mother nature. Wearing Burberry’s iconic tartan pieces, Zhou Dongyu blended in with the microfilm’s green and blue colors of the earth. What’s special about the film presentation is the perfect incorporation of the year of the ox’s festive hues of red, yellow, black, and white, into the latest collection and the classic TB logo. Using bold colors and trendy features, Burberry successfully added refreshing elements into the microfilm. Zhou Dongyu’s soft and nostalgic voice set the scene for the audience, while director, Derek Tsang, explored new ways to work with our sensory—together, adding a touch of comfort and solace into the festive microfilm, “A New Awakening.”

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