LIFESTYLE People

吳盈憲Nick Wu |Finding the Persistence for the Best Taste 從城市中找到對風味的偏執

近幾年台灣飲食文化大幅提升,每一個人適合的場域都不一樣,了解目的,了解預算,你就知道要去哪?才會有所選擇。這是吳盈憲對於時下餐酒消費的解讀。也許你對調酒有偏執尋覓滿足味蕾需求的元素,或也許你只是想跟朋友找個待著沒有壓力的喝酒地方,Bar Mood吧沐是個值得一再光顧的安心選擇。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

Over the past few years, the dining culture in Taiwan has been growing at a fast pace. So how do we find the suitable restaurant? First figure out the occasion, then set a budget. The right choice will come. This is Nick Wu’s understanding of modern day consumerism when it comes to food and drinks. Perhaps you have a love for cocktails and are looking for elements that satisfy your taste, or maybe you just want to find a place to drink with your friends and de-stress. Regardless, Bar Mood is definitely the place that is worth repeated visits and will be the answer to your needs.

藏身小巷的隱密

舒適與低調,細緻和層次,進入這家隱身於忠孝復興sogo後方小巷的Bar Mood吧沐,連續兩年蟬聯亞洲50大酒吧,讓人陶醉的不只有酒,還有它用空間及味道交織出的獨特氛圍。按下按鈕,暗門開啟,以木製桌椅營造「有溫度」的氛圍,整體環境低調有質感,打造私人奢享空間,有隔板可以縮放自如。店裡的植栽設計,每周固定請花藝師以當令的花材設計桌上以及吧台後方的植栽,讓都市人能在短暫放鬆的時刻得到更深一層的療癒。視覺延伸到手繪式的酒單menu,中西對應呈現台灣味,例如:馬告對應胡椒、台灣烏龍對應南非國寶茶,九層塔對應羅勒葉等,精采程度猶如一本酒版米其林指南,讓酒客有更活潑多元的選擇。

調酒技法沒有速成,必須反覆練習,熟練掌握並形成肌肉記憶。
It’s necessary to practice repeatedly, create proficient muscle memory, and also try to understand the purpose and effect of each movement.

定義新酒吧美學

對於2016年世界調酒大賽冠軍的吳盈憲Nick來說,調酒技法沒有速成,必須反覆練習,熟練掌握並形成肌肉記憶,而且還要去思考理解,每個動作的目的與產生的效果。從調酒師轉身為品牌負責人的身分,他坦言考慮的視野與廣度也有所差異,喜歡探索風味,突破框架的他,致力於將Bar Mood打造成飲酒交際的載體,放鬆認識更多的人,學習懂得在何時點什麼樣的酒,之於他而言人生就是一場學習的過程,每一個階段性任務都不一樣。

海上花(左) ,加百列的呼喚(中) 、季之花(右) 。
Blossom of Sea (left), Call of Gabriel (middle), Season of Flower (right).

談起當初開設Bar Mood時,在台灣餐酒文化是一個新形態的模式,並不被長輩們理解,他透露家人其實很反對他做bartender,吳盈憲對著家人說道:「你們不贊成沒關係,店沒開成,我還有兩雙手,讓我試試看,我會證明給你們看。」或許生活是一個非常難拿捏得命題,擁有一套邏輯思維的吳盈憲喜歡追根究底,時常反問自己為何這樣做?並嘗試印證理論,自我對話。後來他的確將品牌做起來,破除世人對於酒吧產業的迷思,努力將品牌更國際化,也學習更懂得享受生活。

傳承培育新世代

根在台灣,而市場要遍佈全亞洲,永遠保持感恩的心,對吳盈憲來說,未來他想做一個教學機構,「你沒有賺錢,你不要談理想。」把品牌做成功,才有辦法實踐自己想做的東西。訪談之際,他多次表示感謝他的Mentor,國際級調酒大師Hidetsugu Ueno上野秀嗣,不僅是技術上的學習,更多是人生的哲理,「以前我認為做調酒不能做一輩子,而遇到他之後,我相信只要努力去做,你可以做一輩子。」想起在日語中,「一生懸命」 (いっしょうけんめい) 的意思是日復一日投入與專注,為追求專業的極致而執著努力。或許因為愛,便深愛,吳盈憲提到餐酒行業沒有永遠的績優股,積累十年磨一劍,取之於社會,用之於社會,他想透過教育的力量,讓年輕一輩能夠對酒吧文化解讀出不一樣的風味。

按下按鈕,暗門開啟,打造私人奢享空間,有隔板可以縮放自如,整體環境低調有質感。
Press the button to reveal the hidden door and the private space for indulgence;
the flexible partitions make the whole environment more low-key and aesthetic.

A Hidden Gem amidst the Alleys 

Comfortable but low-key, delicate but with layers, Bar Mood is hidden in the alleys near Pacific sogo Fuhsing. Ranked as one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars for two consecutive years, what’s captivating about Bar Mood is not only the drink it serves, but also the unique atmosphere weaved by space and taste. Press the button to reveal the hidden entrance of the bar, you will fill the warm ambience created by the wooden furniture. Sophisticated and low-key, Bar Mood is more like a private space for indulgence. Besides the moveable partitions that were designed to make the environment much more flexible, the planting design is also another detail worthy of attention. On a weekly basis, florists would bring in fresh, seasonal flowers, and change the plants that can be seen on the table and behind the bar, to create this deep remedy for the city dwellers who’d decided to come here for a moment of relaxation. Moreover, the hand-painted drinks menu showcases a collection of Eastern and Western elements. Makauy versus pepper, roasted oolong versus rooibos tea, Taiwanese basil versus sweet basil, and more—the brilliance of exploring opposites reads like a Michelin guide for drinks, providing customers with better and more diverse options. 

Redefining Bar Aesthetics 

As the winner of the first prize of Diageo’s World Class 2016, Nick believes there are no shortcuts to mastering bartending. It’s necessary to practice repeatedly, create proficient muscle memory, and also try to understand the purpose and effect of each movement. From a bartender to becoming a brand manager, Nick admits that his perception and point of view had to change. As someone who loves to explore and break conventions, he is committed to establish Bar Mood as a medium for drinking and socializing, and a place for everyone to meet more people. For Nick, learning to understand the right drink for each occasion is like lessons in life that change in accordance with each stage we are in.

When Nick first opened Bar Mood, the culture of bistro in Taiwan was still a rather new concept, something that was not accepted by the older generation. In fact, his parents were actually against his decision of becoming a bartender, but he told them, “It’s okay if you don’t approve, because even if the store doesn’t work out, I still have my two hands. Just let me try, I’ll prove it to you.” Perhaps life is a difficult lesson that everyone is trying to master. Following his own logical thinking, Nick always tried to get to the bottom of things he didn’t understand. He often asked himself, why did he do what he did? Like being in a conversation with the self, he consistently tried to prove each theory he encountered. As a result, he successfully established his own brand and broke the stereotypical thinking people had on the bar industry. Now, as Nick works hard to globalize his brand, he is also learning how to better enjoy life. 

Cultivating Stars of the Next Generation 

The roots are set in Taiwan, but the market must expand to all of Asia. Always grateful, Nick aspires to open an educational institution because he believes that establishing a successful brand is the key to achieve what he wants to do. “If you’re not making money, don’t talk about your ideals.” Throughout the interview, he reiterates his gratitude towards his mentor, Hidetsugu Ueno, one of Japan’s most famous master bartenders, not only for his superb techniques, but also the philosophy of life he taught him. “I used to think that I can’t be bartending for the rest of my life. After meeting him, I realized, as long as I am diligent, I can do this all day.” This reminds me of the Japanese saying, “いっしょうけんめい,” meaning a timeless devotion for the best of the best in English. Perhaps because of love, we love; it is that simple. With the power of education, he wishes that the younger generation will be able to cultivate something new from the bar culture. Because there are, metaphorically, no permanent “blue-chip stocks” in the bistro industry, as Nick points out, which is why it is important to utilize what we have learned throughout the years and turn it into something of our own to stay on top of this fast-paced world. 

📍Bar Mood Taipei 吧沐
地址:台北市大安區敦化南路一段160巷53號
電話:0905 773 621

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