LUXURY

2021 頂級珠寶饗宴 The 2021 High Jewelry Celebration

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

Dior摯愛玫瑰

「花朵是繼女性之後最神聖的造物。它們是如此精緻,令人著迷…。」Dior 先生敘述著,Victoire de Castellane 創造的作品就是最佳證明。從諾曼地Granville的童年花園,到母親繾綣澆灌的玫瑰花園,培養了迪奧先生珍愛自然的天性,特別是玫瑰。今年Victoire de Castellane以別富時代精神的手法,重新詮釋那朵朵在迪奧歷史中迎風開揚的玫瑰,由54款具象而詩意絢爛的玫瑰造型珠寶組成RoseDior系列,致意迪奧先生最鍾愛的花卉。

以玫瑰花為設計主軸,花朵、花莖和葉片組合出多種形態,不論是含苞待放或慷慨綻放皆有其美麗。除了滿鑲美鑽的奢華設計,花瓣邊緣以鑽石、鉑金勾勒出線條,讓花朵形象更為鮮明;一款在花朵一隅用祖母綠點綴的戒指也充滿巧思。花葉部件分層組裝,營造出層疊繁複的立體意象;純手工刻鑿的「霜金」效果、鏤空葉脈、吊膽鑽石鑲嵌成露珠,細膩擬真葉片和莖枝樣貌。為了勾勒出女子手腕的細膩曲線,手鍊和項鍊同樣以珍金打造,營造出近似植物的質感。部分項鍊款式可將主體轉作胸針使用;另一款可調節長度的項鍊則讓墜鍊瞬移成頸鍊。在巴黎高級珠寶訂製工坊裡,精細敲錘並施以拋光整飾的珍貴金屬玫瑰花莖,大小鑽石錯落如霜雪般鑲嵌其間,而玫瑰花瓣末端鑲有鑽石的La D de Dior神秘珠寶錶,則以鑽石與粉紅色藍寶石的錦簇花型為創作增光添彩。

RoseDior Rose Carmin 粉紅尖晶石鑽石項鍊,參考定價NT$24,000,000 RoseDior Rose Carmin necklace, recommended price NT$24,000,000.

The Beloved Roses of Dior  

“After women, flowers are the most divine creations. They are so gentle and so charming…” Monsieur Christian Dior once wrote, and Dior’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane is the best proof. From his childhood Granville garden in Normandy, to his mother’s beloved rose garden, the first seeds of Monsieur Dior’s love for nature, especially for roses, had been planted. This year, with a new twist, Victoire de Castellane reimagines the blooming roses in Monsieur Dior’s life. Consisting of 54 figurative and poetic rose-inspired jewelry pieces, the RoseDior collection is a tribute to Monsieur Dior’s dearest flower. 

With roses as its main muse, the collection is inspired by the variable forms of roses—the flower, stem, leaves—ranging from a bud picked in the morning to the beautiful petals at full bloom in the evening. The extensive series not only comes in the luxurious, full-set diamond design, but the rims of the petals are also lined with diamonds and platinum to bring out the shape 

of the flower. With the corners adorned with emeralds, the DiorRose Blanc Nacré ring is crafted with ingenuity. The leaves are assembled in layers, creating a complex, three-dimensional imagery that is true-to-life. A handcrafted Frost Gold effect, hollow leaf veins, teardrop-shaped diamonds mimicking dewdrops—everything imitates the image of natural leaves and stems. And to outline the delicate shape of a lady’s wrist, the bracelet and necklace are also crafted in precious gold to precisely capture the texture of a plant. Some of the necklaces can be transformed into brooches, while others can be adjusted into chokers. In the Parisian Haute Joaillerie workshops, the finely hammered and polished metal are transformed into rose stems adorned with diamonds of different diameters, intermittently paved and resembling snowflakes. The collection ends on a high note: the La D de Dior secret watch with petal tips embellished with diamonds and pink sapphire to add a dash of color to the elegant creations. 

(右)RoseDior Bleu Outremer 藍寶石鑽石戒指,參考定價NT$22,000,000 RoseDior Bleu Outremer ring, recommended price NT$22,000,000.

(左)RoseDior Rose Carmin 粉紅尖晶石戒指,主石:1.52克拉梨形切割粉紅尖晶石,參考定價NT$6,800,000

RoseDior Rose Carmin ring, pear-shaped pink spinel of 1.52 carat, recommended price NT$6,800,000.

CHAUMET 遨遊詩意花園

時值春暖花開之際,今年度世家CHAUMET獻上「LA NATURE EN MOUVEMENT」頂級珠寶和腕錶,自然主義決不侷限於靜態的展現和固定的靈感,以傳承240年的珠寶工藝捕捉生機盎然的大自然動態。隨風搖曳的麥穗、空中飛舞的蜜蜂、風雨欲來的奇幻天空、伸懶腰的草原雄獅,CHAUMET引以為傲的線條美學勾勒出大自然豐富的景色和動植物,賦予其出其不意的驚喜和生命力。

以精準的觀察力放眼自然景物,詮釋充滿無限可能性的生機,隨著不同佩戴者綻放獨特美感,每一顆寶石述說著私密訊息和個人宣言。例如麥穗項鏈象徵富饒的生活、栩栩如生的蜜蜂胸針代表著活力、而裝飾著山楂花和長春藤造型的冠冕則蘊藏春意盎然之美。每件匠心獨運的作品,皆因為深刻的意涵而成為護身符一樣的存在。

今年CHAUMET的詩意花園增添一名新嬌客,「陸蓮花」。結合世家鍾愛的自然主義傳統和對比強烈的設計風格,打造猶如雕塑般的Éclosion de Chaumet 系列以及Esquisse de Chaumet系列。兩系列擁有截然不同的色彩和風格,是世家為了歌頌藝術之美的構想,將其重視的色彩與線條藝術結合為一。

(左)Abeille 18K白金和18K黃金胸針,鑲嵌1顆梨形橙色璧璽、1顆梨形鈣鋁榴石、圓形錳鋁榴石和多顆明亮式切割鑽石,參考定價約TW$1,472,000 Abeille brooch in 18K white gold, recommended price NT$1,472,000. 

(中)Abeille 18K黃金和白金吊墜,鑲嵌1顆梨形錳鋁榴石、1顆梨形橄欖石、圓形黃色剛玉和橄欖石、圓形錳鋁榴石和沙弗萊石以及多顆明亮式切割鑽石,參考定價約NT$ 4,658,000。Abeille pendant in 18K white gold, recommended price NT$4,658,000.

(右)Esquisse de Chaumet 18K白金戒指,鑲嵌1顆重4.70克拉的橢圓形藍寶石、128顆重1.21克拉的明亮式切割鑽石、丹泉石、縞瑪瑙和多顆圓形藍寶石,參考定價約TW$5,115,000。Esquisse de Chaumet 18K white gold ring, recommended price NT$5,115,000.

CHAUMET’s Poetic Garden 

As the spring flower comes to full bloom, CHAUMET presents its High Jewelry and watch collection, “LA NATURE EN MOUVEMENT.” The idea of naturalism is never limited by static display and fixation. Instead, it captures the vibrancy and rejuvenation of Mother Nature with the Maison’s 240 years of jewelry craftsmanship. Wheat swaying in the wind, bees dancing around the flowers, the sky of fantasia welcoming the changing weather, the lions stretching on the prairie—everything beautiful about nature’s flora and fauna is portrayed by CHAUMET’s outline aesthetics, injecting it with an unexpected vitality that is full of surprises. 

With a keen observation, the French jeweler takes in the natural scenery and expresses it with this vitality that is full of infinite possibilities. Along with the wearer’s own unique beauty, it is as if the gemstones each tells its own private message and personal statement. Like the wheat sheaf necklace symbolizing a prosperous life, the true-to-life bee brooch representing energy, or the ivy-shaped tiara adorned with hawthorn flowers embodying the beauty of spring—each unique work of art becomes a talisman, providing spiritual support and delivering a deeper, more profound meaning. 

This year, CHAUMET added a new gem to its poetic garden of jewelry—the Persian Buttercup. Combining the Maison’s beloved naturalism and the contrasting design styles, the artisans created the sculpture-like Éclosion de Chaumet and Esquisse de Chaumet collections. With distinctive colors and styles, the two series pay homage to the beauty of art and exemplify the Maison’s dedication to combine the aesthetic of line art with the essential colors.

(左)Offrandes d’été 18K白金項鏈,鑲嵌720顆重43.03克拉的明亮式切割鑽石,參考定價約NT$18,632,000。Offrandes d’été 18K white gold necklace, recommended price NT$18,632,000.

(右上)Mélodie Nacrée18K 白金冠冕,鑲嵌1630顆重35克拉的明亮式切割鑽石,參考定價約 NT$14,613,000。Mélodie Nacrée18K white gold crown, recommended price NT$14,613,000.

(右下)Diane 18K白金冠冕,鑲嵌2500顆重67克拉的明亮式切割鑽石,參考定價約NT$17,536,000。Diane 18K white gold crown, recommended price  NT$17,536,000.

De Beers天然非凡美鑽

繼De Beers於去年宣布將於2030年底前提供關於開採及出售的每一顆天然美鑽的來源和其帶來影響的資料。為了實現這項目標,由De Beers所研發的強大科技平台「Tracr」結合了區塊鏈、人工智慧以及高級安全性技術,創建了可在整個價值鏈中追踪鑽石的歷程且防止篡改的記錄。Tracr™平台現已使用於追溯1888 Master Diamonds系列美鑽的工藝歷程,這是第一個受益於此項嶄新技術的De Beers Jewellers作品系列,顧客可以透過照片和影片探索每一顆1888 Master Diamonds系列非凡美鑽的蛻變過程,從剛被發掘的天然鑽石原石型態,到經歷切割和拋光後的各階段樣貌。

而值得一提本次THE 1888 MASTER DIAMONDS系列,一顆無與倫比的大型鑽石原石重 129.71克拉,源自位於波札那共和國的De Beers鑽石礦區,經過三個多月的精心規劃過程後才進行切割,共切割成了10顆拋光鑽石,每顆拋光鑽石的顏色均為最高等級的D色,並且其中有4顆為重達10克拉以上,且淨度內外無瑕的頂級美鑽,切割自此顆鑽石原石的10顆拋光美鑽中,共有4顆被納入1888 Master Diamonds系列。天然鑽石從未經打磨的鑽石原石,在 De Beers精妙絕倫的匠心工藝打造之下,進而蛻變成為可佩戴的藝術傑作。更重要的是,De Beers在製造天然美鑽生產過程中,能夠同時為社會創造積極影響及長久的社會財富,品牌目標致力於在2030年底前能夠在非洲南部幫助超過10,000名的女性微型創業家,以及積極保護生態多樣性、採用大膽創新的舉措以應對氣候變遷和其帶來的負面影響,藉此守護自然環境,為社會帶來永續正面影響的「建設永恆」。

(左)De Beers DB Classic 高級珠寶鉑金上丁方形切割鑽石戒指,中央主鑽為 1888 Master Diamonds 系列 21.32克拉上丁方形切割美鑽。De Beers DB Classic Asscher-cut diamond ring adorned with an Assher-cut diamond of 21.32 carats from the1888 Master Diamond collection. 

(右)源自波札那的129.71克拉鑽石原石。Natural diamond of 129.71 carats from Botswana.

Natural Diamonds of De Beers 

The 1888 Master Diamonds collection conveys the core value of the brand through “truthfulness” and names the latest High Jewelry series after the year De Beers was founded. Through the artisan’s fine polishing and inlaid work, these natural diamonds went from being unpolished gemstones, to becoming the highest standard of beauty that evolves into wearable works of art. Perhaps through the cutting of the diamonds, it doesn’t place emphasis on the weight. But rather, it is to highlight the beauty and exquisiteness of the gems. 

Diamonds of large carats are exhibited in this year’s The 1888 Master Diamonds series. Originated from mines in Botswana and Canada, the eight natural diamonds range from 35 to 130 carats. And judging from the cut design and polishing process, it takes about two to three months to craft the beautiful diamonds ranging from 5 to 26 carats with various styles—the classic pear-shape cut, the emerald cut creating a Grande Galerie effect on the insides, and the most romantic heart-shape cut. The origin of the most romantic cut comes from the 16th century, when Mary Queen of Scots gifted Queen Elizabeth a heart-shape cut diamond ring, an emblem symbolizing their friendship and promising goodwill. 

Sustainable development has now become the trend of the world. As a pioneer in the diamond industry, De Beers has already fulfilled many of its corporate societal responsibilities. The atelier is committed to keep its promise of “Building Forever” by prioritizing the protection of the natural environment in the process of achieving sustainability. Through each mining operation, De Beers ensures that each diamond crafted will create a positive, long-lasting social wealth and allows its customers to feel confident when collecting these naturally beautiful gemstones pieces. 

(圖一)彩色鑽石原石與拋光美鑽。Employee at De Beers inspecting the diamonds with a magnifier.

(圖二)De Beers 員工手持鑽石放大鏡進行鑽石原石的分揀。The colorful, natural gemstones and polished diamonds. Offrandes d’été 18K white gold necklace, recommended price NT$18,632,000.

MIKIMOTO以珍珠妝點世代

My Mikimoto, My Style頂級珠寶展,詮釋珍珠珠寶的多變與不變。My Mikimoto, My Style High Jewelry collection expresses the variety and tradition of pearls.

珍珠是一種風格,不受年齡、性別、種族或性格所限,更不拘泥於任何時尚。「用珍珠妝點全世界女性頸間」的夢想,百餘年前,品牌創始人御木本幸吉 (Kokichi Mikimoto) 發明了世界上第一顆人工養殖的珍珠,珍珠一直以來,是溫潤、純粹、優雅與永恆的象徵,它具有其他寶石所沒有的獨特魅力。無須經過打磨拋光,自帶光芒,最能表現出配戴者的內在之美與強大有力的能量。除了彰顯配戴者的性格,珍珠的造型穿搭也能帶來許多樂趣,各種場合、造型皆能搭配,為珠寶創造更多的可能性。「My Mikimoto, My Style頂級珠寶展」在不斷進化及蛻變的過程中,不僅跨越性別與世代,更以經典樣貌詮釋每個人的獨特風尚。

本次Mikimoto Natural Pearl頂級珠寶系列,孔克珍珠南洋珍珠長鍊,表面以瓷釉般晶透,又帶有粉紅火焰紋飾而令人驚艷。孔克(Conch)一詞原意為「海神的響螺」,當海神欲呼喚海中的精靈與神祇時,便藉著海螺傳達,因此由海螺所孕育的孔克珍珠,彷彿是海神欲訴說的浪漫故事,充滿奇幻想像。MIKIMOTO以細膩的金工製作出蕾絲花朵、鏤空織品般的樣貌,華麗與柔美兼具。在墜飾的貴金屬線框邊緣,刻出細小而連續的紋路,並透過顯微技術將其打磨修飾,整體視覺上層次鮮明,宛如輕盈且富有生命力的蕾絲花朵;中央更以一顆粉紅色的孔克珍珠,讓整個作品更添優雅尊貴。時至今日,MIKIMOTO與時俱進,定義著全新的珍珠珠寶風格,致力於「以珍珠妝點每一個人,無論性別或世代」,而這是屬於MIKIMOTO開放與兼容並蓄的印記。

(左)刻飾貴金屬的動作讓這件作品更生動,Mikimoto將貴金屬的設計也視為重要元素之一,Mikimoto Natural Pearl頂級珠寶系列,孔克珍珠南洋珍珠長鍊,參考定價NT$11,600,000。With precious metal as one of important design elements, Mikimoto incorporates it into its Mikimoto Natural Pearl High Jewelry collection; Conch Pearl long necklace, recommended price NT$11,600,000. 

(中)記憶中總有那麼一條緞帶,鮮明地印刻在腦海中,傳達著歡樂的氣息,訴說著當時的美麗故事。Mikimoto Jeux de Rubans頂級珠寶系列,孔克珍珠蝴蝶結造型胸針,參考定價NT$2,900,000。There is always such a ribbon in our memory that celebrates happiness and tells the beautiful story of past joys. The Conch Pearl Bow brooch from the Mikimoto Jeux de Rubans collection, recommended price NT$2,900,000.

(右)Mikimoto Milano頂級珠寶系列,巴洛克珍珠項鍊,參考定價NT$1,590,000。Mikimoto Milano High Jewelry collection, Baroque Pearl necklace, recommended price NT$1,590,000. 

Mikimoto’s Age of Pearls

Pearls are a style that is not limited by age, gender, race,  personality, and certainly not one single type of attire. “To adorn the necks of all women around the world with pearls” was the dream of Kokichi Mikimoto, founder of Mikimoto. Back in 1893, he successfully created the first cultured pearls of the world. An emblem of tenderness, purity, elegance, and eternity, pearls have this unique charm that no other gem has. Without the need of extra polishing, pearls come with a natural shine that perfectly brings out the wearer’s inner beauty and power. Besides highlighting the personality of the wearer, pearls also bring a lot of fun to styling. Suitable for any occasion or outfit, pearls open up an infinite possibilities and combinations. In the process of improving and evolving, Mikimoto not only breaks the gender norm, but also celebrates every single individual’s unique style through its classic—this, is the core of “My Mikimoto, My Style.”

In the latest Mikimoto Natural Pearl High Jewelry collection, the Conch Pearl long necklace amazes us with its enamel clarity and pink flame patterns. Legend has it that whenever Poseidon desires to call for sea fairies and other gods, he would blow his conch shell to send his message, which gave birth to the magical conch pearls. Originally the call of Poseidon, conch becomes the embodiment of the God of Sea’s romantic history that is full of fantastical imagination. With impeccable craftsmanship, Mikimoto’s artisans crafted these gold lace flowers to make them appear hollow and fabric-like, the perfect combination of splendor and femininity. On the metallic rim of the pendant, we see the miniature and delicate lines that were polished and modified by microscopic technology. Like a lace flower that is light like a feather but charged with life, the visual effect is taken to its peak. The center of the piece is adorned with a pink conch pearl, adding a touch of refinement and nobility. Even till today, Mikimoto still keeps its pace with times and continues to reinterpret the image of the precious pearls. Committed to “adorn everyone with pearls, regardless of gender or time,” this is the manifesto of Mikimoto’s openness and inclusiveness. 

 

發表迴響

%d 位部落客按了讚: