FASHION

復古曲線 Fine Lines of Vintage

時尚是一場更迭流轉的循環,近幾年的復古風格回潮,像是發展到最極致程度般,跟著Gucci 賈姬包 Jackie 1961 跨越半個世紀,vintage Prada Hobo又再度印入眼簾,Fendi 的 Baguette法棍包將90年代腋下包重回風潮,甚至是在每個年代都可以看到的夏日草編包和雋永純手工藝包款,跟著永不停歇的時間流轉,一起訴說著舊時代故事。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

Fashion is a cycle of change and circulation. In the past few years, we see the vintage trend returning, as if having been developed to its extreme. Follow the Gucci Jackie 1961 handbag through half a century, see the vintage Prada Hobo bag come back in the picture, and welcome the return of the 90s shoulder bag with Fendi’s iconic Baguette. The summer raffia bags and the timeless handicraft designs can also be seen in each year’s collection. As time continues to pass, let us continue to tell the evocative stories of our past. 

90風潮

回顧起90年代的熱播美劇《Sex and the City》,Carrie背著Fendi 的 Baguette法棍包說著 「It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette!」,像是隨性地在街上夾著法棍麵包,如此經典的台詞道出了近幾年來的復古趨勢。半月型的輪廓,以圓潤的曲線呈現,將鋒利的俐落感變得隨性恣意,與這幾年的舒適感受融合,也像是翻開了媽媽的舊衣櫥,在玩味復古的新感受。而Prada的 Cleo系列包款在2021春夏時裝首度登場,宛如結合了古典與未來主義般,將復古感十足的半月型腋下包變得現代簡約,既不會有太強烈的衝突感,又可以在過去與未來中跳耀。另外,CELINE 的凱旋門金屬浮雕鎖釦系列 TRIOMPHE 也加入了短肩帶腋下包,1970年代的圖徽與腋下包型結合,將復古魅力推向了極致,也為今年種下優雅兼具的嶄新韻味。 

(左)KIWI李函選用CELINE Triomphe焦糖棕小牛皮短背帶肩背包,參考定價NT$ 77,000。KIWI chooses CELINE Triomphe Shoulder Bag in natural calfskin Tan, recommended price NT$77,000.

(右)Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬時裝秀圖。Louis Vuitton FW21 collection.

The 90s Trend 

Thinking back to the iconic 90s sitcom, Sex and the City, when Carrie held on to her Fendi Baguette bag and said “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette!” Like strolling on the street with a baguette in hand, her iconic line perfectly captured the vintage trend that follows. The curved half-moon shape softens the sharp sleekness and fuses perfectly with our everyday comfort. Like going through our mothers’ old wardrobe, we are welcomed by the playfulness of the retro elements. Combining classic and futuristic features, Prada debuted the Cleo bag series in its SS21 ready-to-wear fashion show. The vintage half-moon shoulder bag is reimagined into a modern and simple model, which isn’t conflicting but perfectly epitomizes both the old and the new. Meanwhile, CELINE relaunched its classic TRIOMPHE Ava shoulder bag by combining totems of 1970 with the hobo crescent bag shape. Thanks to these brands, the charm of vintage bags has been heightened to its extreme and sets the tone for the rest of this year with elegance and innovation. 

(左)CELINE Triomphe黑色小牛皮短背帶肩背包,參考定價NT$77,000。Triomphe Shoulder Bag in shiny calfskin Black, recommended price NT$77,000.

(中)Prada Cleo手提肩背包,參考定價NT$ 62,000。Prada Cleo Bag, recommended price NT$ 62,000.

(右)VERSACE 2021早秋系列粉色La Medusa小型肩背包,價格店洽。VERSACE La Medusa Bag, please contact the store for price.

優雅信封

信封就像是留下了舊時代的慢生活標誌,一封情書、等待已久的消息、又或是紙筆水墨與肌膚油脂滑拭過的痕跡,手拿信封袋,宛如美好年代那沙龍之夜的迷幻優雅,舉手投足都是舊年代的象徵。DiorDouble 信封袋在2021春夏時裝登場,以精緻小牛皮搭配鑲嵌品牌縮寫CD字樣,隨性的手拿款式,完整了今年復古感的優雅姿態。而Burberry誇張比例設計的信封型Pocket包將傳統皮革細節發揮的淋漓盡致,正面壓縫皮革細節,硬挺提柄、亮澤金色金屬配件,帶有Burberry傳統精神與現代潮流感做結合,也呼應了創意總監Riccardo Tisci 的靈感來源於對品牌傳統和未來的展望,在今年勢必可以感受到信封包款帶來的獨特品味魅力。

(左)Burberry正面壓縫皮革扁型 Pocket 包,參考定價NT$89,000。Burberry The Pocket Bag, recommended price NT$89,000.

(右)DiorDouble細節形象圖。Details of DIOR Medium DiorDouble Bag.

An Elegant Envelope

An envelope is like a lifestyle magazine that documented the nostalgic times. A love letter, an anticipated message, or the traces of smudged ink—the things an envelope embodies sing like the beauty of Belle Époque, a symbol of past times. In its SS21 collection, Dior launched the new DiorDouble bag and with its shiny calfskin, the famous “CD” signature, and pouch design, the elegantly retro look is thereby completed. Meanwhile, Burberry introduced the compact Pocket bag that highlights the traditional leather bag details. The front is embossed with the logo and features a sturdy top handle and polished metal hardware. A new addition to the Pocket family, the new model also echoes with creative director Riccardo Tisci’s vision of the brand’s tradition and future—a definitive statement of the charm and unique taste of the envelope designs. 

(圖一)Burberry中型皮革軟式 Pocket 托特包,參考定價NT$79,000。Burberry Pocket Bag , recommended price NT$79,000.

(圖二)Burberry海軍藍刺繡格紋格紋帆布 Pocket 翻口包,參考定價NT$65,000。Burberry Embroidered Check Canvas Foldover Pocket Bag, recommended price

(圖三)Burberry中型棉質帆布及皮革軟式 Pocket 托特包活潑鈷藍及黑色,參考定價NT$69,000。Burberry Medium Cotton Canvas and Leather Soft Pocket Tote Black, recommended price NT$69,000.

(圖四)Burberry中型棉質帆布及皮革軟式 Pocket 托特包柔和淺黃褐色及暖沙色,參考定價NT$69,000。Burberry Medium Cotton Canvas and Leather Soft Pocket Tote, recommended price NT$69,000。

(圖五)Burberry迷你皮革軟式 Pocket 托特包暖皇家藍,參考定價NT$59,000。Burberry Mini Leather Soft Pocket Tote Warm Royal Blue, recommended price NT$59,000.

(圖六)DiorDouble藍色小牛皮中型鍊帶手拿包,參考定價NT$105,000。DIOR Medium DiorDouble Bag , recommended price NT$105,000.

軟呢草編

在傳奇女星 Jane Birkin 的舊照片中,總可以看到她隨性提著菜籃子,也就是所謂的草編包出現在各個不同的夏日背景當中,就連我們讚頌著她與 Serge Gainsbourg 的愛情,都可以看到菜籃子的身影。不需要聽從流行趨勢改變著崛起與沒落,夏日一到,草編包就是所有年代的時尚配件,也因為老照片的各種年代,草編自動帶入了復古的韻味。菜籃子也是法式風格的象徵,人手一袋的走上大街,在市集中挑選著新鮮食材,隨意的放入籃中,優雅的舉手投足都成了法式風格的標誌。Chloé 的 Woody 編織提籃就如同讚頌著法式韻味,每只Woody編織提籃都是獨一無二的手工作品 ; 而 Loewe Paula’s Ibiza系列靈感來源於都市夏日的影像,多款天然纖維織籃以夏日繽紛氣息化作色彩,趣味性的水果形織籃豐富著視覺,玩味著整個盛夏。

(左)Chloé Woody咖啡色皮革飾邊中型托特包,參考定價NT$29,900。Chloé Woody Medium Tote Bag, recommended price NT$29,900.

(中)Chloé Woody世界公平貿易組織合作條紋編織提籃,參考定價NT$21,300。 Chloé Woody basket, recommended price NT$21,300.

(右)LOEWE 2021 Paula’s Ibiza最新系列形象圖。LOEWE introduces the new Paula’s Ibiza collection.

The Softness of Raffia

In the old photos of legendary star Jane Birkin, we always see her carrying a raffia basket with leisure. The everyday bag also appeared in various summer scenes and photo memories of her loving relationship with Serge Gainsbourg. Putting aside the rise and fall of each fashion trend, whenever summer arrives, the raffia bags become the go-to accessory of each year. Perhaps because of the tones of the old photos, the raffia patterns radiate with this vintage glamour. An emblem of the French style, the iconic basket shows up on the arms of pedestrians as they stroll through the farmer’s market while picking fresh ingredients—each elegant gesture becomes a symbol of the French lifestyle. The latest Chloé’ Woody basket celebrates the lovely French allure perfectly with each piece being a unique work of its own. On the other hand, inspired by the fresh shapes of summer, of basket bags in raffia, palm leaf, and other all-natural materials painted with summer colors. The playful fruit baskets surprise the visual and allow us to enjoy this upcoming summer with fun and savoir-faire.

P62:

(圖一)Maje M Basket棕色織籃包,參考定價NT$7,650。Maje M Basket, recommended price NT$7,650.

(圖二)Chloé Woody水壺套(附水壺) ,參考定價NT$29,900。Chloé Woody bottle bag, bottle included, recommended price NT$29,900.

(圖三)LOEWE 2021 Paula’s Ibiza鳳梨造型包款,價格店洽。LOEWE 2021 Paula’s Ibiza Pineapple woven-leather shoulder bag, please contact the store for price.

(圖四)CELINE Lunch Box小牛皮背帶織籐包,參考定價NT$135,000。CELINE Lunch Box, recommended price NT$135,000.

(圖五)LOEWE 2021 Paula’s Ibiza最新系列。 LOEWE introduces the new 2021 Paula’s Ibiza collection.

手工傳承

在不遠的過去,旅行箱不僅僅只是工具,更是自由精神的載體。舊早期時尚大片中經常出現附有鑰匙老皮箱、塑料手提旅行箱、和各種木箱,裝著旅行的期待與新地域的渴望。到了現在,這些手工藝也如同古董,有著故事和生命。行李箱以塗料繪製,再以皮革勾勒出邊緣,遵循著精密的鑽孔工藝和19世紀木雕工藝的流程,製作出完美和諧的手作作品。MOYNAT 創始人Pauline Moynat循著如此,將女性的柔美氣質注入於由男性主導的奢華旅行箱設計當中,把手工藝推向最極致,與今日的設計師 Nicholas Knightly撰寫全新傳奇篇章,像是訴說著品牌故事仍在繼續,永不停息。

(左)周雨彤選用MOYNAT FLORI天空藍肩背包,參考定價NT$139,000。MOYNAT Flori Bag, recommended price NT$139,000.

(右上)MOYNAT FLORI 形象圖。MOYNAT Flori Bag.

(右下)MOYNAT WHEEL TOILE 1920 碳黑與古銅,參考定價NT$147,000。MOYNAT Wheel Toile 1920, recommended price NT$147,000.

Handcrafted Inheritance 

Not long ago, suitcases went from being just tools, to carriers of free spirit. In many retro fashion films, we see old suitcases with locks and keys, plastic carry-ons, and various wooden trunks—all containing the anticipation for travel and this desire for exploration. Until now, these exquisite handcrafted pieces are like precious antiques that are rich in stories and life. First coated with paint, outlined with leather, then completed with a precise drilling process, all of which follows the 19th century wood carving method, producing an array of perfect and harmonious pieces. Following the same practice, the founder of MOYNAT, Pauline Moynat, decided to incorporate lovely feminine features into the male-dominant luxury suitcase designs. Bringing craftsmanship to its extreme, the newly appointed creative designer, Nicholas Knightly, opens up a new legendary chapter, telling the world that the story of MOYNAT will continue without stopping.

(左)MOYNAT FLORI山雀藍肩背包,參考定價NT$139,000。MOYNAT Flori Bag, recommended price NT$139,000.

(中)MOYNAT LITTLE SUITCASE TOILE 1920 碳黑與古銅,參考定價NT$139,000。MOYNAT Little Suitcase Toile 1920, recommended price NT$139,000.

(右)MOYNAT BALUCHON深海藍水桶包,參考定價NT$98,200。MOYNAT Baluchon Bag, recommended price NT$98,200.

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