FASHION 未分類

經典年代 The Classical Era

穿著鞋履輕盈的走在街道上,每一步往前都像是時光縮影,鞋型的立體結構中隱藏著每個年代訴不完的故事,懷舊蔓延的年代,10年間文化的對話,時間流轉的循環,鞋型以完美的比例、創意的構思、經典的延續與精緻的細節和線條,在人們踩著鞋履走過的每一步,保存下了每一段記憶,如同一場經典回顧,喚起追憶年華。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

Strolling down the streets with our shoes on, our every step taken becomes a microcosm of time. The three dimensional structure of each pair of shoes is an embodiment of the endless stories of each era. Like a conversation that goes on for a decade, the reminiscing of the retro eras continues as time flows. With perfect proportions, creative ideas, a continuation of classics, and delicate details, the shapes of our shoes become a preservation of our memories. The steps we have taken gradually transcend into this classic retrospection that evokes the golden times of our past.  

經典傳奇女星

一場與傳奇的時尚icon飆戲的影片《Do We Show?》「邀請」了來自不同年代的傳奇經典Icon加入了 Roger Vivier 的2021秋冬設計的全新系列,其中包含了50年代最流行的性感象徵之一的瑪麗蓮夢露、摩納哥王妃葛麗絲凱莉、30年代的中性女神Marlene Dietrich、30跟40年絕代佳人Josephine Baker 與法國香頌天后 Édith Piaf,由五位跨時代名人的模仿者從外型、神情甚至是說話方式都模仿的唯妙唯肖。Roger Vivier 創意總監 Gherardo Felloni 打開了導演魂將經典年代女星的浪漫注入於此系列,復古華麗的設計風格大膽又魅力四射,光澤感的緞面材質、華麗的羽毛,和經典水晶方釦。晚宴系列更是隆重推出 Cover Buckle Platform Boot 一款細跟過膝後底長靴,配有由匠人手工巧製、極具代表性的真皮飾扣。也如同Grace Kelly 片中所言:「夢想擁有無與倫比的力量!」每個年代都擁有一個令人如癡如醉的傳奇女星,讚頌她們的輝煌,耀眼的窈窕淑女。

Roger Vivier 2021秋冬系列形象圖。Roger Vivier FW21 Collection

The Legendary Female Icons 

A film starring five legendary women, Do We Show? “invited” fashion icons of different eras to join the latest Roger Vivier FW21 collection. A 50s icon Marilyn Monroe, Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly, legendary actress Marlene Dietrich, world-renowned performer Josephine Baker, French musician Édith Piaf—impersonators of five emblematic personalities that precisely capture each iconic figure’s appearance, expression, and even vernacular. Roger Vivier’s creative director, Gherardo Felloni channeled his inner director soul and decided to incorporate the glamour of these female legends into the collection. Everything radiates with a retro and grandiose design style that is bold and charming—the glistening silk material, gorgeous feathers, classic crystal square buckles. Moreover, the Evening Selection introduced the Cover Buckle Platform Boot that is over-the-knee with stiletto heels and paired with the iconic leather buckle that is handcrafted by the artisans. Like Grace Kelly once said, “Dreams have incomparable energy!” Every era is crowned by its own legendary female figure, praising their brilliance and celebrating each and every amazing lady who had successfully made her name. 

(左)Roger Vivier 2021秋冬系列女鞋單品圖,價格待定。Roger Vivier FW21 Woman’s Shoes Collection, open price.

(右)Roger Vivier 2021秋冬系列女鞋形象圖。Roger Vivier FW21 Woman’s Shoes Collection.

輝煌古羅馬

綁帶羅馬鞋又要回潮了嗎,Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬女裝大秀中似乎是表現得很清楚了。象徵著輝煌年代的古羅馬時期,文化中融合著希臘古羅馬與古典歐洲的血液,在風格與時尚輪轉中不停的經典重現,都讓人有種瞬間來到古代舊時期的錯覺。古羅馬風格總是在時尚輪替個幾年之後回潮,帶有結構建築感與比例協調感隨著不同的年代下,展現新元素的古羅馬風格。Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬女裝鞋款同樣運用了古羅馬風格,羅馬涼鞋被重新賦予了新的意象,與亮面科技感的銀色、金色與皮革材質融合,甚至是多了俏皮感的蝴蝶結元素。另外,鉚釘也是古羅馬風格當中的一個特色之一,利用鉚釘結合拉鍊長靴款式,側面加上了拉鍊元素,跟著人體擺動的弧度創造出不同的皺摺,宛如趣味雕塑一般看似堅若磐石卻又曲線似水。

(左) Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬時裝。 Louis Vuitton FW21 collection.

(中、右) 鉚釘也是古羅馬風格當中的一個特色之一。(left & right) Rivets are also a special feature of the Ancient 

利用鉚釘結合拉鍊長靴款式,側面加上了拉鍊元素,跟著人體擺動的弧度創造出不同的皺摺,宛如趣味雕塑一般看似堅若磐石卻又曲線似水。Zippered knee boots adorned with rivets create different wrinkled leather that changes according to the body’s movement, like a fun sculpture that is simultaneously sturdy and water-like flexible. 

The Glorious Ancient Rome

Are the Roman gladiator sandals back in style? The answer seems pretty clear with Louis Vuitton FW21 ready-to-wear show. Symbolizing the glorious days of Ancient Rome, the mixture of culture includes Greek, Roman, and classical European elements that reoccurs in the rotation between style and fashion, instantly taking the wearer back to the ancient times. Regardless of the changing sense of structure and proportions, the Ancient Roman style comes back every few years with new, improved features. Similarly, the Louis Vuitton FW21 women’s shoes collection incorporated Ancient Roman styles. The shiny, futuristic silver, the blending of gold and leather materials, or even the playful bow-tie features—a new meaning is given to the traditional caligae. Meanwhile, rivets are also a special feature of the Ancient Roman look. Zippered knee boots adorned with rivets create different wrinkled leather that changes according to the body’s movement, like a fun sculpture that is simultaneously sturdy and water-like flexible. 

Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬女裝鞋款同樣運用了古羅馬風格,與亮面科技感的銀色、金色與皮革材質融合。Louis Vuitton FW21 women’s shoes collection incorporated Ancient Roman styles. The shiny, futuristic silver, the blending of gold and leather materials.(右) Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬時裝。 

(左) Louis Vuitton 2021秋冬時裝。 Louis Vuitton FW21 collection.

(右)羅馬涼鞋被重新賦予了新的意象,甚至是多了俏皮感的蝴蝶結元素。The playful bow-tie features—a new meaning is given to the traditional caligae.

1920

Ferragamo先生於1927年在替好萊塢多位巨星製鞋後回到義大利的途中,觀察他所搭乘的遠洋客輪的船尾,迸發靈感創造出了像是懸浮在太空中輕盈般的F形楔型鞋跟,如此特殊的形狀需要專業工匠繁複的壓接重複12次以上,並只用一塊皮革完美包覆F形鞋跟,才能夠完美貼合鞋款。如此費勁心力與創意的發想讓當時第一雙「F形鞋跟」鞋在1947年獲得了時尚界的奧斯卡「雷門馬可斯獎」,可以說是很有歷史意義的設計細節。印證了創意總監Paul Andrew所說:「這是一款經典的作品,也將長期作為Salvatore Ferragamo的基石。」每個品牌都有標誌性的設計元素讓人一眼辨識,而對於Salvatore Ferragamo來說,F形鞋跟就是其中最具代表性的產品特色。

Salvatore Ferragamo 2021春夏系列。Salvatore Ferragamo ss21 Collection.

Back to the 20s

Back in 1927, when Mr. Salvatore Ferragamo sailed home to Italy after finishing business in Hollywood, he was inspired by the prow of the steamer he was on and went on to design the iconic F-shaped heel, which creates this impression that the wearer is floating in space. To make such a unique shape, the crimping process has to be repeated up to twelve times to ensure that the single piece of Napa leather is a perfect fit. A novel creation that required insurmountable effort and skills, the first pair of “invisible sandals” received the Neiman Marcus Award—the Oscar of the fashion industry—in 1947, adding more historical meaning to the already special shoe design. This is a testament to creative director Paul Andrew’s belief that “This is a classic piece, it will forever be a cornerstone for Salvatore Ferragamo.” Every brand has its own iconic element that is recognizable at first glance, and to Salvatore Ferragamo, it’s the F-shaped heels that is the emblem of significance.

(左上)Salvatore Ferragamo F形楔形跟隱形涼鞋(1947年)。Salvatore Ferragamo F Heel Invisible Shoes, 1947.

 (右上)Salvatore Ferragamo SANSU黑色小羊皮珍珠裝飾F形鞋跟涼鞋,參考定價NT$35,900。Salvatore Ferragamo SANSU F Heel Sandals , recommended price NT$35,900.

(左下)Salvatore Ferragamo 2017秋冬系列黑色天鵝絨金色F形楔形跟靴。Salvatore Ferragamo FW17 F Wedge.

(中下)Salvatore Ferragamo 2018早春系列Arsina金色山羊皮F形楔型跟涼鞋。Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Spring 2018 Arsina Sandals.

(右下)Salvatore Ferragamo 2021春夏米蘭秀STEFFIE駝色小羊皮F形鞋跟涼鞋,價格待定。Salvatore Ferragamo ss21 Camel F Heel Sandals, open price.

1970

70年代代表著自由之氣,嬉皮風格的開端也造就了80年代的搖滾巔峰,女性主義也在此時崛起,女孩們隨性不羈的衣著與喇叭褲的走紅更可以體現當年的解放熱潮,也乘著嬉皮風格的熱度奔放了起來。LOEWE Flow運動鞋以70年代田徑運動場的流暢設計為靈感,推出了設計風格簡潔、鞋頭延伸至後跟的波浪鞋底、與全新中性色調的Flow系列鞋款,其中有尼龍、麂皮及光滑小牛皮鞋面,三色鞋底,皮革延伸的後跟保護等現代感設計細節,塑造出解構時尚氣息。2021春夏款式中還多了亮麗新色,以棕褐色、米白色與黑色為主拼接各式皮革,在濱海的豔陽下,呈現了70年代那自由自在、遠離凡俗,輕鬆寫意的好心情。

Loewe 2021春夏Flow球鞋形象圖。Loewe ss21 Flow Runner Image.

A 70s Manifesto 

The 70s is an era of freedom. Hippie Fashion that led to the peak of Rock & Roll in the 80s, the rise of the idea of feminism, girls in free-spirited tops and boot-cut pants—everything gave way to this liberation that welcomed the arrival of Hippie Fashion. Inspired by the smooth design of a 70s track and field stadium, LOEWE Flow Runner launched its minimalist model with a signature rubber waved sole curving around the heel and toe. The brand new neutral tone Flow runner sneaker is made of nylon, suede, and calfskin and incorporates modern details that not only protects the ankle, but also creates this special fashion aesthetic that is simple and practical. LOEWE also introduced new models that come in bright colors in the SS21 collection. As if lying under the blazing coastal sun, the seasonal colorways of brown, off-white, and black becomes a manifesto of the 70s ambience that is free, relaxed, and delightful.  

Loewe 2021春夏Flow球鞋單品,價格店洽。Loewe ss21 Flow Runner, please contact the store for price.

1990

雖說厚底並不是起源於1990,但是1990的厚底之風如高峰般席捲了所有人的目光,在鞋王Ferragamo於30年代尾打造了一款超前衛彩虹厚底鞋款,引領當年的風潮,甚至是70年代嬉皮盛行將厚底涼鞋的時尚魅力推向了頂峰,而1990更是帶領了日本辣妹風潮,人腳一雙的厚底鞋成為了時尚指標。今年秋冬趨勢我們可以看到 Versace以黑色皮革為主調,創造出了簡潔俐落的厚底鞋款,Chloé Woody系列也推出了厚底涼鞋與楔型涼鞋,甚至是在Valentino 2021春夏高訂大秀中,都可以看到防水台極高的高跟厚底設計,給更迭快速的時尚界重重投下了震撼彈,厚底風潮看來會在未來鋒芒嶄露。

(左)Versace 2021秋冬系列秀圖。Versace AW21Collection.

(中右)Valentino 2021春夏高定秀圖。Valentino ss21 Haute Couture Show.

1990’s Trend Report 

Although platform shoes were invented long before 1990, it began to establish itself as the center of attention in the same year. In the 30s, the king of shoes, Salvatore Ferragamo introduced the avant garde, rainbow platform shoes that set the fashion trend. In the 70s, the charming platform sandals became a necessity for Hippie Fashion. Even in 1990, the specific design became Japanese girls’ favorite, a fashion icon that can be seen everywhere. This year, using black patent leather, Versace introduced the sharp and clean-cut High-octane platform boots in its FW21 collection. Meanwhile, in the Chloé Woody collection, we also see an array of platform shoes and wedge sandals. Even in Valentino’s SS21 Haute Couture fashion show, many of the outfits were completed with a pair of sky-high platform heels that surprised the fashion industry and definitively predicted the glorious return of the platform trend. 

(右)Chloé Woody白色厚底涼鞋,參考定價NT$18,500。Chloé Woody Sandals, recommended price NT$18,500.

(中)VERSACE 2021早秋系列黑色厚底高跟鞋,價格待定。VERSACE Pre-Fall 2021 Black Platform Shoes, open price.

(左)VERSACE 2021早秋系列黑色皮靴,價格待定。VERSACE Pre-Fall 2021 Black Leather Boots, open price.

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