TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
A continual reinterpreting and reimagining regardless of the changing times are the reason works of classic can continue to tell the story of each brand. And of course, each brand has its own exclusive classic—Chanel’s tweed jacket, Saint Laurent’s Le Smoke pantsuit, Max Mara’s camel coat, Burberry’s trench coat, Dior’s Bar Jacket, and more. While each brand establishes its own ultimate classic, it simultaneously creates a new sense of uniformity, embedded deep in people’s hearts by defining its own unique aesthetic.
雋永 New Look
Bar Jacket 一直都是DIOR最經典代表單品之一，在 1947年，迪奧先生以幸運數字8的束腰輪廓，凸顯女性腰身的曲線，下擺則是如花苞般綻放，成就了時尚史中New Look新風貌的經典之作。如今依然可以看到DIOR Bar Jacket出現在秀上當中，也證明了再經過歷代創意總監的帶領下，深植人心的Bar Jacket依然是割捨不了的設計，甚至是2017年正式接任創意總監的Maria Grazia Chiuri 將Bar Jacket 塑造成女性堅韌的代表。而Bar Jacket 的製作過程繁複，完成一件作品需要一百多道工序，為了在移動中要保持優雅的體態，Dior的每位工匠在製作過程中絲毫不敢馬虎，也讓Bar Jacket 的剪裁宛如藝術品般精緻，且無可取代。
（左）DIOR Acacias suit 1949高定春夏系列（中）DIOR Bar suit 1947高定春夏系列（右）DIOR BAR JACKET Collection
A Timeless New Look
The Bar Jacket had always been the most iconic look of Dior. First introduced in 1947, Monsieur Dior sealed his success with the symbolic number 8-shaped fitting and bud-like hem that highlight the curves of femininity. An eternal emblem of the New Look, the style continues to be reinterpreted by the House’s artistic directors, proving that the deeply embedded Bar Jacket is still a design that cannot be forgotten. In 2017, the iconic piece was revisited once again by Maria Grazia Chiuru, who turned it into a representation of women’s resilience and tenacity. Requiring over a hundred different steps, the process of making the Bar Jacket is extremely complicated. The artisans of Dior are committed to perfect every detail of the piece, in order to achieve this balance of freedom and graceful movement and to turn the Bar Jacket into a manifesto of Dior’s ultra-modernity.
DIOR 2021秋冬女裝 DIOR AW21 Woman’s Collection
絲綢奧秘
絲綢是最美麗的布料之一，與是現今最愛用的面料之一，不只是絲綢在與其他面料疊加中可以創造出不同的層次美感，更是因為它的親膚舒適感受，讓時尚圈永遠逃離不了對絲質的熱愛。義大利向來以其絲綢製品聞名，義大利的熱那亞、威尼斯與佛羅倫斯更是主宰了西方織品市場幾百年之久。精美的絲綢印花融合著代表歷史皇室的優雅與奢華，令「義大利製造」之名推上了國際時裝與配飾的一線地位，創造出極具創意與精湛工藝的臻品。Salvatore Ferragamo作為以絲綢配飾、絲巾和絲質領帶為標誌性元素的義大利時尚品牌，將許多的創意融入了絲巾，運用了藝術以及手工傳統Ferragamo絲巾之美推向了極致。
(左)Ferragamo先生的女兒Fulvia Visconti Ferragamo形象圖（右上）Salvatore Ferragamo SETA絲巾展覽現場圖（右下）Salvatore Ferragamo絲巾創作手稿圖
Salvatore Ferragamo博物館
地點：Spini Ferroni費羅尼 • 斯皮尼，佛羅倫斯
展覽時間：即日起至 2022年4月18日
策展人：Stefania Ricci及Judith Clark
展品目錄製作（Electa出版社）：Stefania Ricci
The Wonders of Silk
One of the most beautiful fabrics and a modern day favorite, silk not only adds a different layer of texture and aesthetic to other garments, but also becomes the fashion industry’s most used material—thanks to its comfort and softness. Italy has always been known for its silk products, with cities like Genoa, Venice, and Florence holding their dominance over the western fabric market for hundreds of years. The exquisite silk print blends in with the elegance and grandeur of the royal families, making the name “Made in Italy” a top-notch status among the global fashion and accessory industry and creating an array of highly innovative and exquisite works of art. An Italian brand known for its silk accessories, scarves, and ties, Salvatore Ferragamo incorporates the gorgeous fabric with art and traditional craftsmanship, bringing the beauty of Ferragamo’s scarves to its peak and establishing a fashion emblem that will forever be celebrated.
經典制服
Thom Browne 將灰色達到了品牌識別性的極致色彩，也以經典的正裝剪裁、精緻考究的面料與設計細節，打造出既俐落又雅痞紳士的極致制服風格。Thom Browne的創作靈感來源於60年代的美國，他對西裝的詮釋宛如縮小尺寸般，達到最合身的效果，也不同於其他傳統西裝剪裁，而有了獨特見解的美學之道。袖身上的四條Bars和紅白藍的設計也成為品牌識別印象。
Thom Browne 的創作靈感來
源於 60 年代的美國，他對西
裝的詮釋宛如縮小尺寸般，
達到最合身的效果，也不同
於其他傳統西裝剪裁，而有
了獨特見解的美學之道。
Inspired by the working man’s
suit of the early ’60s, the
shrunken silhouette is how
Browne interprets fitted suits,
which is distinctive from the
traditional suit tailoring
在今年秋冬，Thom Browne 攜手上一季合作過的導演 Carissa Gallo 拍攝此系列影片，在雪地上悠然自在。美國高山滑雪運動員 Lindsey Vonn 穿著份量感十足的黃色羽絨禮服，像是在說到，儘管嚴峻的疫情肆虐，也沒辦法阻止我們做夢。另外，本季被品牌稱作一個關於黑色禮服的故事，在設計元素上依然加入了許多制服感受，例如此次系列的滑雪文化也融合著前幾季的運動精神，完美的詮釋於正裝美學中，甚至是加入了高訂技藝，由100多個裁片拼組一件羽絨半裙、一件百褶裙則多達209 個裁片，將高訂精神流淌於整季之中。
美國高山滑雪運動員 Lindsey Vonn 穿著份量感十足的黃色羽絨禮服，像是在說到，儘管嚴峻的疫情肆虐，也沒辦法阻止我們做夢。
Featuring American alpine ski racer, Lindsey Vonn, the film starts off with her wearing an extravagantly quilted down, golden yellow dress draped over the suit. It is as if the film is sending us a message, telling us that even the pandemic will not be able to stop us from dreaming.
Thom Browne RESORT 2021系列 Thom Browne RESORT 2021 Collection
The Classic Uniform
With no doubt, Thom Browne has successfully made gray the ultimate color of recognition. By using classic formal tailoring and exquisite fabric, the neat and elegant uniformity is thus created. Inspired by the working man’s suit of the early’ 60s, the shrunken silhouette is how Browne interprets fitted suits, which is distinctive from the traditional suit tailoring. In addition with the visual identifiers—the four white horizontal stripes or the red, white, and blue grosgrain—the label found its own understanding of aesthetics and established an exclusive recognition.
This year, Thom Browne once again collaborated with director Carissa Gallo to create a short film for FW21 Fashion Week. Featuring American alpine ski racer, Lindsey Vonn, the film starts off with her wearing an extravagantly quilted down, golden yellow dress draped over the suit. It is as if the film is sending us a message, telling us that even the pandemic will not be able to stop us from dreaming. Meanwhile, the new season of Thom Browne also reads like a story about black dresses. Preserving the iconic uniform-esque elements, the ski-themed collection also incorporates the sporty spirits from past series and even uses Haute Couture craftsmanship. The ball skirt made of layered puffers with more than 100 pattern pieces, the pleated trench coat requiring 209 patterns—the new season of Thom Browne radiates with uniformity, athletics, and the essence of Haute Couture.
Thom Browne RESORT 2021 系列 Thom Browne RESORT 2021 Collection
Raf Simons said
“The thing I have talked most about with Miuccia through all these months was uniforms.”
說到Miuccia Prada的設計，總會跟 uniform 制服這個詞聯想在一起，這也是Miuccia Prada體現她對於階級主義以及女性主義的詮釋，而 Raf Simons 正式加入PRADA後，在2021春夏系列中說到：「我思考這25年來PRADA帶給我的想法，而立刻想到的就是『制服』。」因此不管是2021春夏或是秋冬系列，都以「制服」作為出發點，保留最精簡的要素，去打造重複性和標誌性創造出屬於PRADA全新的制服感受。其中包含了在春夏秀上中看到以服裝圍繞身體，以手握緊的形式仍出現在2021秋冬系列當中。三角PRADA MILANO標誌更是提升了制服感，除了可以在春夏秀上看到服裝正面大型標誌外，秋冬系列也巧妙的運用在包款、手套、夾克外套上。甚至是男裝與女裝系列都在同一個場景中，同樣的配色和風格，服裝上相同的廓形、繭形西裝和西裝外套，一再的重複再重複，不只是為了強調男女裝的中性美學，更是為了達到極致制服感和完美詮釋全新Prada意象。
在春夏秀上中看到以服裝圍繞身體，以手握緊的形式仍出現在2021 秋冬系列當中。
In the FW21 show, we can still see models holding on to the garment with their hands, a way of presentation that has been used since the ’80s.
Speaking of Miuccia Prada’s design, it seems to always connect with the term “uniform,” embodying the creative director’s own interpretation on class consciousness and feminism. After joining Prada, Raf Simons’s take on the SS21 collection was something similar as well. He said, “The thing I have talked most about with Miuccia through all these months was uniforms.” Which is why for both SS21 and FW21 collections, uniform became the core inspiration—simultaneously keeping the minimalist features and creating a brand new Prada sensation with the recurring icons. In the FW21 show, we can still see models holding on to the garment with their hands, a way of presentation that has been used since the ’80s. Enhancing the uniform-centric feeling, the triangular PRADA MILANO plaque not only can be seen on the garments of SS21, but also appeared amongst the FW21 collection—on bags, gloves, jackets. Using the same color scheme and style, the menswear and womenswear collection were held with a similar style, with clothes of the same tailoring and the same cocoon-shaped suits and blazers. Constantly repeated, it not only emphasized the beauty of gender neutral looks, but also achieved the ultimate uniformity, the perfect interpretation of the brand new Prada concept.