FASHION

電影時尚學 The Art of Cinematic Fashion

經典電影與影集的永久不衰,不只是在觀眾的心中留下一席之地,更是成為許多設計師眼中的靈感繆思與激發創作來源。視覺與聽覺的藝術表現,層層敘事與時間軸的記憶,融入著聲光享受,時尚與人文歷史文化電影下的效果,這些靈感之源容我們慢慢欣賞。

The timelessness of classic films and TV series not only holds a place in our heart, but also becomes the source of inspiration for many fashion designers. Through the visual and auditory artistic expressions, the unraveling of the narrative and memories, combined with the enjoyment of light and sound, we see the blending of fashion and humanities that eventually becomes our personal muse for us to appreciate. 

經典電影與影集的永久不衰,不只是在觀眾的心中留下一席之地,更是成為許多設計師眼中的靈感繆思,更是激發創作來源。視覺與聽覺的藝術表現,層層敘事與時間軸的記憶,融入著聲光享受,时尚與人文歷史文化電影下的效果,這些靈感之源容我們慢慢欣賞。

Carrie Bradshaw –「紐約的女人都在這個城市裡尋找兩樣東西:愛情(love)與標籤(label)。」

在90年代的熱播美劇《Sex and the City》 慾望城市的熱潮下,直到現在翻翻衣櫥,甚至都還有慾望城市主角們的影子。四位曼哈頓女郎,擁有截然不同的時尚風情,更是因為鮮明的個性,讓觀眾們深深刻畫著他們的模樣,從時裝秀到街頭依然可以感受到慾望城市瘋狂且恣意奔放的影響力。

翻翻衣櫥內,是否也有一件Carrie喜愛的芭蕾舞裙,在愛鞋成痴的Carrie求婚場面一定要有的一雙Manolo Blahniks高跟鞋,以及Carrie背著Fendi 的 Baguette法棍包說著 “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette”在經典台詞的背後是Fendi  Baguette的隨性以及優雅,在冬日下雪的紐約能夠駕馭住的那件厚實又時髦的皮草大衣,無一處不是受了慾望城市的影響,將慾望城市的經典收到自己的時尚口袋中。

Cyberpunk 賽博龐克風格在近幾年可以說是關注度達到了頂峰,以低端生活結合高科技,展現出一種信息高度發達的未來人類社會,充滿了詭譎卻霓虹的科幻色彩,像是電影《銀翼殺手2049》就被看作是賽博龐克風格中最典型的例子,也與《駭客任務三部曲》、《攻殼機動隊》、《頭號玩家》等成為科技潮流靈感來源,人們開始注重帶有運動及機能屬性的服裝,高科技面料與漆皮亮面塑膠風格的追求,而引發了這種極具未來感的造型潮流。像是Balenciaga 2020秋冬、 2021春夏以及2021秋冬直接深入最愛打電動的一群,甚至推出了遊戲以「後世:明日世界」為名,結合著未來感元素與街頭腐敗、暗黑的末日之感。

公路電影中的瀟灑與恣意應該是所有人的幻想,也成為了眾人眼中的時尚靈感來源,好像可以拋開所有世俗的眼光,就讓塵土飛揚自由自在、無拘無束地奔馳,《Thelma and Louise 》末路狂花這部在 1991年的片子,可以說是公路電影當中經典中的經典。

兩個女人跳脫好萊塢90年代下的男性視角,全片就由女主角Thelma和Louise帶著觀眾豪放奔馳,在與警方的來回公路交戰中,把主角們的個性刻畫真實且浪漫,像是一個既強勢又中性對比著溫柔隨性的打扮,成為了許多設計師中的靈感來源,尤其是片中的牛仔元素同時展現了兩位女主角叛逆又青春的靈魂。另一部《Bonnie and Clyde》我倆沒有明天也是著名的美國公路的經典,一對亡命鴛鴦的時尚至今依然雋永,像是Clyde西裝套裝搭配牛仔感的軟呢帽與Bonnie 的收腰是西裝套裝與法式貝蕾帽都像是革命般,開啟了好萊塢最有創造力的十年也流傳於時尚成為設計師們的靈感繆思。

Long after the 90’s sitcom Sex and the City ended, we still find the shadows of the main characters lurking in our closet. The four iconic girls from Manhattan with completely different fashion styles left a long lasting impression on the audience with their distinctive personalities. From runway shows to street styles, we can still feel the crazy and unrestrained influence of Sex and the City. 

Going through your wardrobe, do you happen to find Carrie’s favorite tiered tutu, a pair of Manolo Blahniks heels she wore in the proposal scene, and a Fendi Baguette? It is almost impossible to look at the bag and not think of the signature line: “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette!” What the iconic line embodies are the Baguette’s carefree nature and absolute elegance. We see girls pulling off those chic and thick fur coats in the snowing New York City, a manifestation of the show’s influence as they bring all the classics into their own fashion closets. 

Blade Runner 2049 starring Ryan Gosling (right) and Ana de Armas (left).

The cyberpunk style can be said to have reached its peak in these past few years. Combining low-end life and technology, it predicts a future society overflowing with highly developed information and this enigmatic, neon sci-fi color tone. The film Blade Runner has always been regarded as the most iconic cyberpunk example. Other movies like The Matrix franchise, Ghost in the Shell, Ready Player One have also become the source of inspiration for technological trends. People started to focus on clothes with functional, athletic features and began pursuing high-tech fabrics and the patent leather style—leading to an uprising of the futuristic fashion trend. Like Balenciaga’s AW20, SS21, and FW21 collections, they all dived deep into the world of video games. The brand even launched the “Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow,” an immersive video game that combined futuristic features and the corrupted, dark feelings of the apocalypse. 

The freeing and willful road movies are perhaps everyone’s fantasy and the source of fashion inspiration. Imagine if we can disregard societal norms and just drive away without a care for the world. A 1991 American road crime film, Thelma and Louise is perhaps the most iconic road movie of all times.

Instead of the usual Hollywood footloose fellas, we get Thelma and Louise, two female characters taking the audience on a crazy ride as they are being chased by the police. Their personalities were honest and romantic—with one being strong and independent, while the other, gentle and carefree—and the rebellious but young denim features soon became a source of inspiration for many designers. Speaking of road movie classics, one simply cannot forget Bonnie and Clyde as the fashion of the infamous couple still lives on, even till today. Whether it’s Clyde’s suit and retro fedora, or Bonnie’s pencil skirt and beret, the fashion influence of the pair was revolutionary as it opened up Hollywood’s most creative decade and became a timeless muse for the succession of designers that followed.

發表迴響

%d 位部落客按了讚: