FASHION

2022 早春趨勢 濾鏡時尚 | SS22 Filter Fashion

無庸置疑的,在經過幾乎一年半的隔離情景,曾經唾手可得的畫面如今都像是電影場景,美好的旅行或是人與人之間的交流情節,如今看起來甚至如同隔世。套上一層網路濾鏡,真真假假,假假真真,濾鏡下的你我是否真實,似乎看來都不重要了。只管流淌在虛幻的美好之中,一切看似這麼真,卻又這麼遠。

夏日斑斕濾鏡

「從日出到日落,羅馬天空那一抹柔和的顏色是如此美麗,我想要讓它成為這個系列的焦點。」

— FENDI 男裝及配飾藝術總監 Silvia Venturini Fendi

FENDI 男裝及配飾藝術總監 Silvia Venturini Fendi 說道:「從日出到日落,羅馬天空那一抹柔和的顏色是如此美麗,我想要讓它成為這個系列的焦點。」 羅馬的天空總是耀眼柔美的艷陽光隨著天光變化不斷展現出地景地貌的無盡風華,突顯了夏日玩心似箭的心情,FENDI 2022春夏男裝系列再次將迷人的光暈效果揮灑於服裝,呈現出羅馬天空的魔幻,精緻淡雅的配色呼應著春天的植物和瞬息萬變的天空,檸檬和萊姆、冰藍、薰衣草紫、開心果綠和牡丹的粉嫩色彩,宛如一場度假時的美好白日夢,一覺醒來管他是真是假,就沈溺在孩子般逃避現實的玩心,一起享樂吧!

Prada 2022春夏男裝系列則是上演了一場不可思議的夏日逃脫之旅,尋求本質和直接的快樂,回歸單純美好。紅色擱淺物躺在佈滿花崗岩巨石的沙灘上,或漂浮於清澈的海面上,享受著原始的景觀,烏托邦式的,那單純去海邊的心情。

Prada 2022春夏男裝系列上演了一場不可思議的夏日逃脫之旅。

跳躍時空濾鏡

運動與文化、古代與當代之間的緊密結合,優美空靈的歌聲搭配著氣勢滂礡的管弦樂,在暗夜下,古希臘女神緩緩降臨。Dior 2022 早春度假時裝系列猶如金色與白色之間的無盡對話,突顯腰部曲線的褶襉造型和女神式袍裝以輕盈面料流淌出的流動感,彷彿古希臘神祇雕像中的身形堅毅卻又柔軟,混搭著運動風格單品的球鞋與配件,頓時之間跳躍於新舊時空當中,遊走於古典和自由之間的裁縫辭典。

Louis Vuitton 創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 從上任以來一直帶領著大家走向屬於他的科幻世界,大膽刻畫出復古與未來、現實與虛實之間。在 Louis Vuitton 2022年早春女裝系列中,同樣也可以看到Nicolas Ghesquière獨特的審美烏托邦,服裝上如同太空降落傘的立體剪裁,軍事元素、樂隊制服感的造型,彷彿踏上太空戰艦飛往未知。

軍事元素、樂隊制服感的造型,彷彿踏上太空戰艦飛往未知。

濾鏡下的科技反思 

真實和偽造、實質性和概念性、事實和虛構、偽造和挪用之間,科技創造了另一種現實和身份,一個數位化的克隆(clones)世界。Balenciaga 2022春季系列探討了有關濾鏡下為現實帶來的思考,那些被美化過的、被修飾、被同質化、被PS過的究竟是真是假無從得知,或許就一直活在一個大腦傳輸的虛擬時空,這都是所做的夢而已。為了傳達這一概念,此系列每一個造型都由藝術家 Eliza Douglas 演繹,利用數位化克隆形象出現,其中有些使用換臉技術,有些則是捕捉Eliza 的臉部影像,透過CG掃描來進行數位嫁接。服裝與配件上明顯將Gucci的標誌性圖案進行概念性演繹,成為Balenciaga的產品,融合了Gucci和Balenciaga的品牌元素,以此探索和質疑時尚對於原創、偽造與挪用的看法。服裝上以繭狀(cocoon)造型創造出各種趣味時尚感的獨特美學,在鬼才設計師 Demna Gvasalia的帶領下,勢必在2022繼續擄獲千禧世代的喜愛與芳心。

It is true that after almost a year and a half of social distancing, the familiar scenes in life seem like a fantasy. The beautiful travels or the connection we used to have with people now feels like a world away. After adding some filters, true becomes false, while false also becomes true. Underneath all the lenses, does it really matter if any of us is real? Let us roam free in this illusory beauty where everything seems so authentic, and yet so far away.

“The colors and the perspective are always changing – the soft palette of the Roman sky across the day is so beautiful and I wanted it to be a focal point of this collection.”

—Silvia Venturini, FENDI’s artistic director of accessories and menswear, sharing the inspiration behind the collection.

A Pastel-Hued Summer  

Highlighting the excitement of the summer season, FENDI’s SS22 Menswear series pays tribute to the colorful spirit of Rome through an array of pastel-hued tones. Like echoing the spring flowers with the ever-changing sky, the frothy kaleidoscope of pastel limes, ice blues, lavenders, pistachio greens and peony pinks comes together like a beautiful daydream. It doesn’t matter if it’s real or fake, just enjoy the escape from reality like a kid and have some fun!

Speaking of escape, Prada’s SS22 Menswear collection also invites us to go on a spectacular summer getaway to find the purest, simplest joy in life. Just like in the short film, after we emerge from the “meandering red tunnel” and arrive at a Sardinian beach, let us float on the clear ocean and appreciate the primitive of nature. It feels ideal, simple and hopeful. It is a sense of Utopia. 

Arrive at a Sardinian beach, let us float on the clear ocean and appreciate the primitive of nature.

Jumping through Time and Space 

The close integration between athletics and culture, ancient and contemporary, sings beautifully and ethereally like a majestic orchestra, like an ancient Greek goddess slowly descending from the dark night. Dior’s SS22 Cruise collection opens like an endless conversation between white and gold.

Tailored to showcase the curves of the waist, the pleated garments flow like Hellenic peplos with this tender strength that resembles the gods and goddesses of Ancient Greece. A blend of Greek classics and athletic style, the accessories and sneakers become travelers of the past and present, wandering between ancestry and freedom. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has been leading us towards his world of science fiction ever since he took office. He is always boldly imagining the past and the future and wavering between reality and fantasy. In Louis Vuitton’s SS22 Resort collection, we once again see Ghesquière’s unique vision of a utopia. The parachute pleats, the military features and the uniform-like tailoring, everything feels like it is taking us on a space travel heading towards an indeterminate future. 

Reflecting on the Lens of Technology 

In between real and fake, tangible and conceptual, truth and fantasy, forgery and appropriation, technology created an alternate reality for our identities: a world of digital clones. Balenciaga’s SS22 Spring Ready-to-Wear considers the shifting sense of reality through the filters of technology as Demma Gvasalia asks “What we see online is not what it is. What’s real and what’s fake?” After all the perfecting, modifying and photoshopping, it is almost impossible to tell real from fake and vice versa. Perhaps this is all just some sort of virtual reality transmitted by our brains; it is all just a dream. To illustrate that concept, every look in the new collection is presented by artist Eliza Douglas, and Douglas only. Through a variation of techniques deployed by the video producer, Douglas appears as a series of digital clones—some being deepfakes, while others photogrammetry-captured and CG-scanned onto real models. There is also The Hacker Project, in which Balenciaga reimagined its clothes and accessories with Gucci’s iconic signatures. Combining features of the two brands, Gvasalia explores and questions what originality, branding and appropriation really mean in the fashion industry. Through reimagining the classic cocoon construction and under the lead of Gvasalia’s brilliance and creativity, the distinctive aesthetic of Balenciaga will definitely continue to be the favorite of all Generation Z. 

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