FASHION

2021 秋冬高級訂製系列 詩意篇章|FW21 Haute Couture A Poetic Chapter

每次高訂時裝週的到來,就像在現實中歇息片刻的插曲,可以肆意地做夢,那些認為不可能、存在於童話故事中的服裝以及場景,由精緻工藝的工匠師們將一幕幕變為了真實。記得小時候很喜歡的童話故事驢皮公主,其中由國內最成名的裁縫將千變萬化的天空顏色化做成連衣裙,蔚藍的天空再配上金色的雲彩,甚至比真實的天空還要漂亮。這一段故事就如同高級訂製服的想像,匠心工藝傳承著高訂精神,打造一個無與倫比美妙的無限遐想。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

羅馬氛圍

「帕索里尼觀察到羅馬的氛圍變得更為現代摩登 –這引發了我的興趣:串連起每一個時代,新與舊,過去與現在。」

FENDI 藝術總監 Kim Jones

以羅馬歷史建築為靈感,擁有輝煌歷史的羅馬是一座迷人的城市,羅馬電影導演 Pasolini 作品中的世界觀不斷吸引和啟發著,這也是 Fendi 藝術總監 Kim Jones 為這次高訂秀開啟的序幕,並邀請《以你的名字呼喚我》導演Luca Guadagnino執導短片,可以看到導演以他的鏡頭視角體現出詩意般的美感,揉合羅馬文化的古典基調中。除此之外,服裝上也感受到濃烈的中世紀羅馬風情,以一片片珍珠母貝鑲嵌而成的馬賽克藝術層層堆疊在薄紗洋裝、包款及鞋履上,純白極簡的色系襯托出繁複的浮雕曲線,將羅馬建築裝飾濃縮在第二層皮膚上,特殊的羅馬拱門鞋型鞋跟與馬賽克鑲嵌的Peekaboo包款、珍珠浮雕Baguette手拿包,甚至是以大理石雕刻作為靈感,幻化成藝術品般的耳飾、手環、頸飾等等,擷取眾多古典的雕刻線條融合著現代氣息,傳遞著 Kim Jones 的摩登設計的美學,將過去的詩意變成今天的樣子。

刺繡精神

睽違許久,終於迎來了回歸實體秀形式,DIOR 女裝暨配件創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 意在解封之際重申高級訂製服的底蘊神髓,選址於巴黎的羅丹美術館,一套套刺繡的顛覆性語彙穿梭於織布上形成一種表演,在風格、律動與態度的交界處形成詩意般的歡頌。

以織品面料的重要性為重點靈感發想,探索著一系列不同織法與尺寸的作品,格紋、毛呢在黑白色錯落中交織出創意的經緯。為襯托秀場的恢弘氣度,禮服以迪奧先生鍾愛的粉藍或裸色調設計,裝飾巧奪天工的褶襉、花邊和手工編結圖騰。美不勝收的作品還包括另一襲飾有華麗刺繡的綠色洋裝。 柔美與精緻一直都是我們對於Dior的想像,在高訂這個將夢幻轉變為現實的手工傳承技藝中,也將羽毛、透紗以及珠飾工藝點綴於編織、刺繡,在繁複魅力中展現一針一線的高訂精神。這系列也是受到策展人Clare Hunter的書籍《Threads of Life》啟發,書中談論著編織與刺繡的必要性,也成為Maria 最珍視的價值,編織與刺繡承載了歷史,自信展現了工藝低調又永恆的美學。

Balenciaga 高級訂製冬季21系列最受矚目的一環為與女帽製造商 Philip Treacy 合作的頭飾,寬大的廓形與  Balenciaga 的服裝廓形不謀而合,以復古卻帶有現代感姿態將一套套服裝展現。

沙龍時裝屋

今年的時尚震撼彈非Balenciaga 莫屬!睽違了53年Balenciaga 高訂系列重返秀場,自 1967 年創始人 Cristóbal Balenciaga 先生離開時尚界後,品牌第一次重啟高級訂製系列,品牌創意總監Demna Gvasalia,特別選址於巴黎喬治五世大街10號(10 Avenue Georges V)的品牌創始時裝屋舉行。為了還原1960年代的復古樣貌,除了整修品牌時裝屋內的沙龍外,高訂秀以毫無配樂的方式在時裝屋沙龍中展出作品,延續著品牌悠久的高訂歷史。在螢幕中看秀的我們,也像是去到了復古年代般,感受法式沙龍時裝屋的傳承。本季 Balenciaga Couture Winter 21 正式成為品牌第50季高級訂製系列,同樣也是藝術總監Demna Gvasalia執掌下的首個高級訂製系列。

以建築衍生的剪裁靈感賦予服裝全新風貌,也延伸著匠心技藝的傳承像歷史致敬。Balenciaga高級訂製冬季 21系列最受矚目的一環為與女帽製造商 Philip Treacy 合作的頭飾,寬大的廓形與  Balenciaga 的服裝廓形不謀而合,以復古卻帶有現代感姿態將一套套服裝展現。除此之外,裹身大衣被做成了毛巾浴袍的感覺,更是以不同的面料量身打造,以標誌性的繭形(cocoon)輪廓或蕩領裁剪(swing-back)構建出了服裝與身體的無限空間感。最後,面紗新娘禮服是傳統的高級訂製壓軸作品,本季呈現的新娘禮服設計靈感源自於Cristóbal Balenciaga 先生 54 年前呈獻的最後一季設計,意為從過去到現在,超越了時間界限,始終都是永恆經典的傑出設計。

面紗新娘禮服是傳統的高級訂製壓軸作品,本季呈現的新娘禮服設計靈感源自於Cristóbal Balenciaga 先生 54 年前呈獻的最後一季設計。

藝術連結

在歌手 COSIMA 優美歌聲中揭開Valentino 2021秋冬高訂大秀序幕,一場選址於浪漫水都威尼斯的威尼斯軍火庫(Arsenale di Venezia)製船廠,四周環繞著古建築與水光反射,從創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli從工作坊的概念出發,以「Valentino Des Ateliers」計畫邀請17位來自不同國家、擁有不同創作風格的

Valentino 2021 秋冬高訂系列秀圖。

藝術家合作,展開了一場高級訂製服的藝術對話,表現出工藝、交流以及團隊合作的重要性,並在不同創作者的創意及激盪火花中,完美展現了高訂精湛工藝精神與多元的想像色彩,此次秀中可以看到許多服裝剪裁 A 字型與 O 字型輪廓,鮮豔濃郁的飽和色彩,堆疊出氣勢之感,將繁複的設計轉變為線條與幾何,頭戴 Philip Treacy 設計的超巨型飄逸羽毛帽飾,隨著光影的變化,一套套服裝的展現都宛如訴說著屬於自己的故事,在悠揚的歌聲當中,聆聽著內心的激動與感受。

Whenever the Haute Couture week arrives, it offers us to take a break from reality so we can roam free in our imaginations. Everything that seemed impossible—the fairytale dresses and settings—comes true in the hands of the craftsmen. Like in our favorite childhood fairytale Peau d’Âne, when the famous tailor turns the ever-changing sky into dresses and paints the sky blue colors with golden clouds, the result turns out to be even more beautiful than reality. This story embodies the high spirits of Haute Couture artisanship and creates this spectacular, delightful and limitless fascination that invites us to take part in.

A Roman Ambience

“Pasolini observed Rome become modern – and that is what is happening to me: connecting eras, the old with the new, the past with the present.”

— FENDI creative director Kim Jones

With glorious history, Rome is a charming city that inspired the works of Roman director Pier Paolo Pasolini and encouraged him to expand his worldview. Opening his Haute Couture show with Pasonlini’s perspective on reality, Fendi’s creative director Kim Jones also invited the director of Call Me By Your Name, Luca Guadagnino, to shoot a visual presentation for his second couture show. Through Guadagnino’s lens, the poetic beauty of the Eternal City is transcended and perfectly blended with the classic tones of Roman culture.

Meanwhile, Jones also incorporated his own love and passion towards the Ancient Roman spirit into the FW21 couture looks. The use of Mother of Pearl mosaics are layered across tulle dresses, handbags and shoes, while the minimalistic white tones highlight the intricate curves of the sculptures. Heels shaped as Roman archways, Peekaboo bags adorned with mosaic, Baguette handbags with pearl reliefs, even the marble-inspired earrings, bracelets and neckpieces—everything is a modern take on the classic Roman heritage. Through Kim Jones’s modern interpretation, he bridged the old with the new and brought the past to the present.

The Spirit of Embroidery

Long last, Dior returns to in-person shows after three seasons of virtual presentation. Reclaiming the values of Haute Couture, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri held her show at the Musée Rodin in Paris. Through her design, the language of embroidery is weaved into a project that becomes a performance, while the style and movement come together as one poetic praise. Inspired by the materiality of fabric, Chiuri explored an array of different techniques and sizes and found her unique creativity through the interwoven plaid, wool and the black and white patchwork.

Echoing the vast panoramic hand-embroidered backdrop, the dresses are designed in Monsieur Dior’s favorite pastel blue and nude tones and adorned with delicate pleats, laces and hand-loomed tweeds. An absolute gem of the new collection is definitely the green wedding dress embroidered with shimmering feathers, as Dior once again transformed our fantasy into reality. With impeccable craftsmanship, the spirit of high fashion is fully expressed through the weaving and embroidery embellished with feathers, organza and gemstones. Textile artist and curator Clare Hunter’s Threads of Life was also a huge source of inspiration. Her book highlighted the importance of weaving techniques and embroidery as means of sharing memories and history, which is something Chiuri holds dear as they manifest the confidence of the craft and the timelessness of art.

The Charm of Salons

For the first time in 53 years since Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his couture house, Balenciaga returns with creative director Demna Gvasalia’s debut Haute Couture show. The show took place at 10 Avenue Georges V, where Balenciaga first opened his Maison. The fashion brand not only restored the original 1960 salon, but also held the show in complete silence. As we viewed the show through our screens, we were taken back to the retro era and invited to dive deep into the charming heritage of the French salons.

This FW21 collection marks Balenciaga’s fiftieth and also Gvasalia’s very first Haute Couture show. Drawing inspiration from architecture to reimagine the garments, the looks also pay tribute to the glorious history of craftsmanship. One of the most iconic pieces is the hat made by British milliner Philip Treacy—the wide-brimmed shape perfectly matching Balenciaga’s signature silhouette. Meanwhile, we also see the coats being remade through different materials and echoed the master couturier’s creations such as the iconic cocoon or the swing-back tailoring, all of which expand the garments by creating a sense of space. The most exciting pieces from Gvasalia’s Haute Couture offerings were definitely the wedding dresses, which were inspired by Balenciaga’s last design back in 1967. From past to present, the brand continues to break the construct of time and presents us with designs that are timeless, classic and outstanding.

An Artistic Connection

With her plangent voice, British singer Cosima opened Valentino’s FW21 Haute Couture show, which took place in the Arsenale di Venezia. Drawn to the location’s haunting beauty, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli invited 17 different artists from all over the world for the Valentino Des Ateliers.

A dialogue with artists, this collaboration highlighted the importance of teamwork, connection and artisanship. Through the clash of different creative ideas, it perfectly conveyed the impeccable spirit of Haute Couture and the colorful imagination that comes with it. In Piccioli’s show, we see an array of A-cut and O-shaped silhouettes, exaggerated and saturated colors, geometric and line designs, sizable marabou feather hats designed by Philip Treacy and so much more. Through the changing lights and shadows, every look from the show tells its own story amidst the serenade that sings beautifully and poetically.

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