FASHION

2022男裝春夏趨勢 只是孩子|SS22 Menswear Trend Just Kids

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

一場歷史傳統的時裝品牌與時代潮流的藝術對話,像是永遠都不會長大的大男孩,走入深夜搭配著背景迷幻的音樂與絢爛的色彩,在享樂的夜晚持續發光,持續的危險、大膽並充滿慾望。

夜行動物

我看見一個粉色男孩,夜遊感卻又漫無目的的幻覺,不同於現實的平行時空中,藝術家的氣息,瀰漫在這個愉悅的氛圍當中。夜行動物的霓虹、夜黑、髒白、糖果粉紅、紫及藍,夜行動物的狂放不羈,好似所有畫面化成扭曲。

LOEWE 2022 春夏男裝以玩樂之夜為題,以德國藝術家Florian Krewer作品為靈感,延續著品牌的享樂、玩趣風格,用鮮豔飽和的顏色訴說著這季的概念,並揮灑於服裝上 ; 而 Dior 2022 春夏男裝則是將磅礡的大峽谷和浩瀚無垠的沙漠景象注入了秀場,並轉化為一座奇異​怪誕的仙人掌花園,完美的碰撞出柔和的粉嫩色調與夜行刺激的霓虹的火花,Dior男裝創意總監 Kim Jones 與與音樂製作人 Travis Scott 攜手合作,以嶄新的結合推出全新Dior Oblique圖騰,Travis Scott將Dior經典元素替換成「JACK」字母,甚至將品牌經典的Toile de Jouy法式印花也轉變成Toile de Cactus,以經典融合創新為新的春夏季節注入一絲活力激情。

潮流至上

Virgil Abloh 一直引領著年輕世代,對於製造話題與爆款可以說是得心應手,擅長以服裝探討嘻哈與次文化的他這次就給了大家一個時髦重擊!Louis Vuitton 2022 春夏男裝與Nike Air Force 1球鞋世紀聯名,融合球鞋經典符碼以及路易威登經典元素,對形塑著他的嘻哈文化致敬。此次以「Amen Break」為主題,從銳舞(Rave)、武術、嘻哈音樂等文化元素貫穿於LV 2022春夏男裝系列當中,在服裝表現上更是刻意製造出極端的對比效果,重新定義了服裝概念,像是探討對比的西裝與運動服、街頭與正式等等,都是想打破成見與傳統,在各種寬大浮誇的輪廓線條中,找到最合適自己的樣子。與潮流結合勢必要提到此次Dior男裝創意總監 Kim Jones 與潮流音樂製作人Travis Scott 2022 春夏男裝的攜手合作,除了服裝外,全新登場的配件絕對是Dior 2022春夏男裝系列的精采亮點,像是以滑板鞋為靈感打造全新運動鞋款,包款上更是將經典馬鞍包以堅硬的新面貌登場,結合著堅固的馬鐙提把,翻玩經典圖紋、復古90年代,都替 Dior 2022 春夏男裝系列增添了街頭與潮流氛圍。

PRADA 2022春夏男裝。
PRADA 2022春夏男裝。

禁錮之野

隱隱約約的性感,在迷人的外表下藏著頑皮、野性的心。在Sex Life 影集之中,是否讓許多人掉進了迷幻的氛圍,那份危險卻又張揚的迷戀,是否讓人成癮、揮之不去。看像此次 Burberry 2022 春夏男裝,第一眼那份優雅的美感,內斂卻又低調,但仔細去品嚐細節時,發現魔鬼藏在細節裡,充滿叛逆不羈的野性美。

透過人造穿孔配件與黑色皮革繞頸式背心、外套和三角褲詮釋,傳達出青春實驗風格與性感魅力。流動的線條、隱約的露出肌膚與亮色作點綴,如同創意總監Riccardo Tisci 所說的「期望展現青春的自由精神、誠懇與大膽的態度,以及那種實驗和流動感。其中有強烈的團結意識,也不乏個體性,鼓舞和激勵彼此自由地表達自己。這是一種富有感染力、令人期待、生機盎然的原始力量,如同覺醒。」而Prada 則是在俐落的剪裁輪廓下,找尋極端的本色,一種烏托邦式的自由理想,在經典的皮衣下搭配著寬鬆的短褲、敞開的胸脯更是加入了針織元素,在每一個看似平凡裡藏著即將迸發出的火花。

An artistic dialogue between long established fashion brands and the trend of the times. Like kids who never grow up, we walk into the night with psychedelic colors and fantastical music as the night of enjoyment continues to shine, dangerous, bold and full of desire. 

Nocturnal Animals

I see a boy in pink, wandering around with no apparent destination in a parallel universe. The ambience of an artist lingers in the joyful atmosphere. Neon colors, pitch black, dirty white, candy pink, purple and blue—the colors of a nocturnal animal roam free amidst the distorted visualization.

Inspired by the works of German artist Florian Krewer, LOEWE’s SS22 menswear collection continues the fun style of the brand and transforms it into a rave-inspired presentation filled with saturated colors. In the meantime, the Dior SS22 menswear show took place in a recreation of the majestic Grand Canyon and dusty deserts, which later evolved into an eerie-looking cactus garden: a perfect clash between the sun-bleached-palette and the hues of exciting neon. The brand’s menswear creative director Kim Jones collaborates with famous musician Travis Scott and together they introduce the brand new Dior Oblique totem. Scott reimagines several Dior icons, including the Cactus Jack motif and the reinvented Toile de Cactus. As the classics are combined with innovative features, this new spring-summer season is fueled with vitality and passion.

Trendsetters of the Generation

A Gen Z icon, Virgil Abloh never fails to come up with creations and collaborations that become an instant fashion craze. Always exploring subcultures and hip-hop through clothing, he once again presents us with a shocking surprise. For its SS22 collection, Louis Vuitton menswear teams up with Nike Air Force 1 and combines the iconic sneaker model with classic features of the French fashion house. It is a tribute Abloh wants to pay to hip-hop culture. Titled as “Amen Break,” the new collection draws inspiration from rave culture, martial arts and hip-pop music. In terms of the clothing presentation, it deliberately creates an extreme contrast that redefines the concept of fashion. Like the clash between suits and tracksuits, the collection is meant to break conventions and stereotypes and offers us a chance to find our own image among all the exaggerated silhouettes.

And speaking of combining trends, we have to mention the collaboration between Kim Jones and Travis Scott. Besides the reimagined clothing mentioned earlier, another key to the Dior SS22 menswear collection is definitely the accessories. From the new kicks inspired by skate shoes to the fresh-takes of the classic Saddle bag covered and its retro ’90s print and stirrup handle, everything adds a touch of streetstyle to the new menswear collection.

A Forbidden Wildness

Subtly sexy, a naughty and wild heart is hidden underneath the charming appearance. In the tv show Sex Life, did you also get caught up in the same mesmerizing ambience, the dangerously addicting secret romance that is impossible to get over? Just like Burberry’s SS22 menswear collection, at a first glance it appears to be elegantly reserved. However, after paying closer attention to the details, we will find a rebellious beauty hidden right under the garments. Through the display of utilitarian accessories, black leather vests, jackets and briefs, a youthful and sexy charm is in full bloom. Through the fluid silhouettes, the revealed skin and bright color adornments, creative director Riccardo Tisci said, “I wanted the collection to capture that free spirit of youth and its honest and daring attitude, that sense of experimentation and fluidity… It’s a very raw energy that’s infectious, exciting and full of life — like an awakening.” Meanwhile, Prada is in search of the ultimate originality through the sleek tailoring and shapes. Like a utopian freedom, the classic leather jacket is layered upon loose shorts and open-vested shirts with knitwear features, turning the ordinary into something spectacular.

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