FASHION

In Style 派對巡禮

秋冬除了厚重的大衣與份量感的層次外,配件一切以輕量為好,像是畫龍點睛一般,點綴上小巧精緻的裝飾,宛如一顆古典優雅的珠寶盒添加了一點可愛,鏈條與繫帶感的隨性輕盈感,鞋履上的黃金年代與經典珍珠,服裝上的繭型輪廓,在這漫長的秋冬深夜裡,隱藏了蠢蠢欲動的靈魂與派對狂歡的餘韻。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

透過這套系列,我想使用單品,喚起Fornasetti藝術世界的持續現代感。

Louis Vuitton 女裝創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière。

迷你當道

受不了塞不下任何東西的迷你包了嗎?如果是,那可能又要被「只裝得下可愛」的時髦魅力轟炸一嚇了!從 Dior Micro Bag 迷你包的小巧優雅到LOEWE迷你珍藏版禮盒,就連今年秋冬Louis Vuitton 與義大利藝術工坊 Fornasetti 聯名款式中,都可以發現迷你的影子,包括了以變形皮革製作的迷人版本 Cannes 包,上面有 Fornasetti 黑白建築素描的美麗浮凸,讓人想起文藝復興時代翡冷翠的洗禮堂,並重新加工Petite Malle,看起來就像是膨脹後,蒙上了圓頂印刷金屬皮革,創造出驚人的光學幻影,迷你童趣的讓人不知所措。

除此之外,2021秋季,Coach執行創意總監Stuart Vevers重新推出Rogue手袋系列,以經典Signature緹花織布或是光滑鞣製皮革為質材,鑲嵌各種自然童趣的動植物圖案,在迷你可愛的同時,依然保持著童趣與活潑的時髦風格。甚至是擁有歐洲皮件百年歷史的 Moynat 也加入了迷你的行列,縮小了 Moynat 各種經典包款,像是微型行李箱包款 Little Suitcase、以備用輪胎為靈感的圓型 Wheel 與詮釋女性優雅力量的 Voyage 包款都紛紛成為了袖珍代名詞,迷你形象加上粉嫩新色,任誰都抵擋不住的可愛浪漫攻擊。

金色盛宴

讓人聯想起美好年代的沙龍與派對,紙醉金迷的繁華讓大亨小傳片段在腦海裡重燃,熱情如火、揮金如土,夜夜笙歌,重複過去的奢華夢想,用一抹金色燦爛繼續做夢。Valentino的精緻奢華,在一片一片手工藝縫線的玫瑰花瓣中綻放,證明著美麗的事物不僅僅只是奢華更是匠心傳承。而 MANOLO BLAHNIK 承載著品牌精緻典雅的底蘊,為歡慶50周年,推出黃金膠囊系列,重構了年復一年品牌愛好者們珍愛的經典,曼妙飄揚的羽毛與引人注目的奢華金箔相得益彰,又或是加入了施華洛世奇黃水晶元素,增添了金黃閃耀光芒,而經典的 PARINEW 瑪莉珍鞋則是採用糖果包裝紙般的裂紋金箔鞋面,巧妙地捕捉並反射光線,將光采奪目的斑斕色彩流淌而出。

優雅珍珠

經典傳奇時尚 icon 黛安娜王妃也曾說過,如果女人只能擁有一件珠寶,那必定是珍珠。珍珠經歷長時間的磨練而成的結晶,富有珍貴與永恆的美好寓意。魅力不僅僅是經典更是歷久彌新,而鞋子與珍珠碰撞結合,腳上更是如同行走的藝術。Jimmy Choo以大大小小的珍珠錯落,點綴於不同典雅的鞋款上,時而增添盎然趣意,時而增添夢幻色彩,珍珠於不同材質上跳舞,各種元素鑲嵌、拼接與錯落,除了體現品牌一貫的女性優雅,更是增添活潑氣息與摩登感受。

繭型輪廓

品牌時裝屋在歷史文化傳中有承著屬於品牌辨識度的經典廓形,像是 Dior 於 1950 年代 H 字型與1955年發佈的A字型輪廓,Dior 雋永精緻的服裝廓形堪稱50年代女性風尚的完美縮影,又如同提起 Yves Saint Laurent 就會想到那傳世經典Le Smoking吸煙裝,擁有極具辨識度的服裝能夠一眼辨認品牌風格定調,直到今日依然無法抹滅,已然成為了品牌文化遺產。而說到繭型輪廓必定會想到 Cristóbal Balenciaga 於1942年誕生的 Cocoon Coat 繭型外套,以流線感的肩線輪廓並加大加寬肩袖,光滑且流暢的建築感輪廓風格,再也不必受緊身線條所限制。Balenciaga 在最新的高訂時裝大秀中也重塑了經典 Cocoon Coat ,延續著品牌悠久的高訂歷史。而 Louis Vuitton 於2022早春秀中和2021秋冬大秀中都展現了許多繭型風格,搭配著舒適感受,更加符合現代,看來今年秋冬寬大且浮誇的輪廓會成為一股轟烈的時髦趨勢。

In contrast with the heavy coats and layering of autumn and winter, the accessories are best to be small and exquisite like the finishing touch on a dessert. It is as if we added a dash of cuteness to the classic jewelry box. While the chain and lacing effect highlight the lightness and flow, the pearls on the shoes signify the classic Golden Age. Let us put on the cocoon-shaped attire and delve into this long autumn night, as the eager soul awaits to be discovered in the aftertaste of this raving party.

The Smaller the Better

Can’t stand a mini bag that doesn’t fit anything? If so, we apologize for another wave of miniature bags because it seems like it will once again be taking over our life! From the compactly elegant Dior Micro Bag, LOEWE’s special edition nano bags box, to Louis Vuitton and Fornasetti’s AW21 collaboration, the features of miniature are everywhere to be seen. One absolute gem is the Cannes bag in transformed leather, which is embellished with a Fornasetti monochrome architectural drawing and reminiscent of the Renaissance-era Baptistery in Florence. Adding a reworked Petite Malle, the bag appears to have been inflated and is covered with a dome printed metallic leather, creating a captivating optical illusion that is child-like and fun.

Meanwhile, for the autumn season of 2021, Coach’s executive creative director Stuart Vevers reintroduces the Rogue handbag series. Using materials like the signature jacquard and glovetanned leather, the bag is adorned with prints of various plant and animal patterns. Not only minute in size, but it is also fun, energizing and chic. With a century-old history of making European leather goods, Moynat also hops on the mini bag trend. Shrinking the size of its classic designs, the brand launches a collection of mini bags, including the charming Little Suitcase, cylindrical minaudière Wheel BB and the elegant Voyage bag. Several models also come in an array of new matte colors, welcoming its customers with a wave of sweet and romantic ambience.

A Golden Feast

Reminiscent of the salons and parties of the Belle Époque, the drunkening prosperity reminds us of the scenes in The Great Gatsby. Passionate like fire and luxurious like gold, the nights unravel our aspirations and continue our dreams with a touch of gold veil. The exquisiteness of Valentino blooms within the rose petals and handcrafted stitches, a proof that beautiful objects are not only a luxury, but also an inheritance of artisanship. On the other hand, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, MANOLO BLAHNIK launches a gold capsule series that reconstructs the beloved classics of the brand. Graceful, fluttering feathers complement the eye-catching gold foil, while the addition of Swarovski yellow crystal details brings out a sparkling shine. In addition, the “PARINEW” Mary Jane pumps feature a candy wrapper-like, cracked gold foil that perfectly portrays the brilliance of colors and captures the reflection of light.

Pearls of Elegance

A legendary icon, Princess Diana also said, if women can only own one piece of jewelry, it must be a pearl necklace. As a product of long-term crystallization, the iconic gem is also a emblem of preciousness and beauty. Not merely relying on being a classic, a pearl’s charm is also about eternity. And when combined with shoes, it becomes a walking art. Using pearls of all sizes, Jimmy Choo embellishes its shoes with the white gem in order to create a mixture of fun and fantastical colors. As the pearls dance on different materials, the elements clash with one another and become an embodiment of Jimmy Choo’s femininity, exuberance and modernity.

The Cocoon Silhouette

An inheritance of history and culture, fashion houses are emblematic of the brand’s recognition and classics. Like the H-shaped silhouette of 1950 and the A-shaped clothing of 1955, Dior’s timeless and exquisite style is said to be a perfect representation of women’s fashion in the ’50s. Meanwhile, if we mention Yves Saint Laurent, we are instantly reminded of the classic Le Smoking attire. Becoming a heritage of culture, the clothing is so highly recognizable that it allows us to identify the brand even till this

Valentino FW21-22 Haute Couture Collection.
Balenciaga Fall 2021 Couture Collection.

And if we think of cocoon-shaped silhouettes, our minds go directly to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1942 creation—the Coccon Coat. With a flowing shoulder line and exaggerated sleeves, the architectural design is no longer limited by tight-fitting tailoring. Balenciaga reimagines this classic shape in its latest Haute Couture collection, while continuing the brand’s long-established history of high fashion. And lastly, Louis Vuitton also incorporates many cocoon-shaped designs into its 2022 Pre-Spring and AW21 collections. With an emphasis on comfort, these clothes align more with modernity and boldly predict a future trend of broad and exaggerated silhouette that will appear in the upcoming autumn and winter seasons.

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