FASHION

奔放靈魂 | 2022 春夏紐約時裝週 SS22 NYFW

「我認為我們都已準備好享受愛所帶來的簡單卻巨大的樂趣,這裡的愛包括 – 浪漫的愛、對彼此的愛、對我們所在城市的愛,對我來說,這個城市就是紐約。」  設計師 Michael 先生。

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

超模Kendall Jenner 參與MICHAEL KORS 2022春夏時裝秀。

寧靜綠洲

我們在這座城市生活,在這座城市相遇,在這座城市相戀,生活當中的酸甜苦辣都有這座城市作為背景。後疫情時期好久不見的MICHAEL KORS SS22 時裝秀場中,揮別了數位呈現,印入眼簾的是一片綠蔭盎然、鬱鬱蔥蔥的城市綠洲,不同於度假感給人的放肆與不羈,在這場秀中看到的是一般生活中繁忙的小憩片刻,又像是短暫的午餐約會。Michael先生說道,他想透過這個系列向他所熱愛的城市中屬於春天的一切致敬,在時髦都市的快節奏、吵雜、喧囂之中,也能夠停下腳步,體會屬於春夏的都會羅曼史與『愛』。愛的概念貫穿於整場秀中,萬綠叢中一點紅,一款特別設計向慈善組織God’s Love We Deliver致敬的羊毛衫,這是 Michael 先生心目中最親近的慈善組織,而此件羊毛衣的所有銷售收入都將捐贈給God’s Love。

另外在服裝設計方面可以看到時髦都市人士的影子,包括中性幹練感的開襟夾克和大衣,女性浪漫元素的連身裙、抽褶、英格蘭刺繡、蕾絲等多種工藝與材質,充分展現出受到城市紐約滋養,自信、浪漫、別樣的無限魅力。

重返戲劇紐約

當一切加入神秘故事元素時,空氣當下會凝結成你幻想中的樣子。Thom Browne 2022 春夏男女裝系列注入了迷幻色彩,遊走在一座幻象花園,模特兒宛如一尊尊被花卉包圍的雕像,由裝扮著浮誇廓形與騎著腳踏車戴著馬匹頭套的人們開啟了序幕篇章。此次秀場靈感來源於英國小說家 J.G. Ballard 的短篇故事《The Garden of Time》,在輕柔浪漫的時間線裡,以細節說故事。故事裡頭有著博物館中的珍藏藝術品因歷史年代久遠都會有的缺失與損傷,例如服裝造型中半隻袖子的造型與直身的簡約輪廓,甚至是龜裂斑駁的妝容都在致敬博物館中雕塑的意象。而最具有 Thom Browne 風格的經典灰色西裝也以多種變奏曲呈現,加入了無袖、格紋、裙裝的元素,將制式、極簡的 Thom Browne 融入了新思維與柔性魅力,極簡的服裝中搭配著精緻繁複的花卉妝容達到衝突美感中的和諧,感受著 Thom Browne 的極致魔幻,重返這座城市新的靈感、新的故事。

下午茶派對

每到時裝週,編者總是很期待 Moschino 的時裝系列,在繁雜且一成不變的日子中,創意總監 Jeremy Scott 的無限想像與趣味性總能使人會心一笑,即便如此天馬行空,Moschino 創造出來的世界總是快樂、無憂無慮的。而現代人需要的不就是偶爾的脫離現實,盡情享受嗎?

2022 春夏系列可以看到超模 Gigi Hadid 穿著童趣繽紛動物形狀的連身裙,在 Ladies Who Lunch 茶會派對中霸氣咬著奶瓶包,瞬間成為社群網站中重複轉載的寵兒。不僅如此,此次秀場還以 1990 年代法蘭德瑞雪經典老電影《天才保姆》為靈感,新奇卻又高雅的時尚花園、宛如芭比套裝、針織連衣裙等等,每一套造型融入滿分驚喜的名媛復古午餐元素與童趣娃娃感,不論是放風箏的小熊,戴花冠的貴賓犬  ,頭頂條紋沙灘球、無憂無慮的海豹,還有拉著佈滿鮮花的手推車的長頸鹿,這些是春季的壓軸合奏,也是甜膩的反諷。甚至是加入各種浮誇配飾,包含奶瓶、冰淇淋桶、方塊積木,就讓我們甜蜜睡去,作個白日夢吧女孩們!

美式經典

說到美式時尚,Coach 的形象就是美式風格的代名詞,Coach 創意總監 Stuart Vevers 深知品牌影響力,以大膽前衛的手法體現紐約市堅毅果敢的創意能量。 最新這一系列就以美式經典出發,重新詮釋春季美式風格服裝與包款,透過當代視角顛覆傳統風格。而美式經典最具代表性為多元化社會,在紐約這座活力、快速的城市當中,以多樣化的精神打造風格。這場秀如同一封寫給紐約的情書,不僅向中央公園、Zabar’s、Serendipity和布魯克林大橋等知名地標景點致敬,更突顯紐約市激發全球創意人士的豐沛力量。服裝設計方面看到經典大膽的顏色,千鳥格與格紋,街頭元素的牛仔褲等等,重新回憶起紐約地鐵中形形色色的人群,更加街頭也更加隨性。另外 Coach 深知數位為時代趨勢,將電視結合實體走秀,推出本季特別節目「Coach TV:Public Access」歌頌著現代、樂觀活潑的精神,期盼能有更美好、光明的未來。

Tory Burch 2022 春夏系列。

嘉年華會

看著 Tory Burch 全新春夏大秀,不需要背景音樂就能夠隨性起舞。睽違已久的實體時裝秀以「街區派對」為主題,想必後疫情時代下大家都悶壞了。Tory Burch 秀場兩側街邊設有餐飲攤位供與會嘉賓一同享用,隨著音樂緩緩響起,穿著最新春夏系列服飾的模特兒魚貫走出。在看著一套套的服裝,繽紛大膽的色系與獨特的輪廓線條,不禁給人一種異國風情之感,甚至帶有南美洲嘉年華會的氣氛。 Tory Burch 鄙棄了女性一直以來被認定穿著的服裝,以全新自由想法、鼓勵展現自我,賦予女性一股堅定又優雅的休閒力量,如同此次秀場的靈感來源 Claire McCardell,一位二十世紀的時裝設計師,他改變了女性長久的服裝禁錮,帶來美式休閒運動服的問世。又如同此次秀場讚揚著女性休閒之美,布料輕盈、飄逸,隨性卻又大膽。

Peaceful Oasis

he city that never sleeps, we live, meet people, fall in love and get our hearts broken. It is a place that has been through all of our peaks and valleys. After 18 months of the pandemic, Michael Kors returns with an in-person SS22 fashion show. Transforming Tavern on the Green into a city oasis, the show took place in Central Park, where life blooms in abundance. Different from the past vacation-styled runways, this one is more like a hiatus from our hustling life, a much-needed lunch break with our special someone. Kors wanted to pay homage to everything he loves about New York City. It is more than a representation of love “in” the city, but “of” the city’s romantic history. The collection also features a special edition wool turtleneck sweater that is a tribute to charity God’s Love We Deliver, whom Kors had been supporting for a long time. In terms of the design, we see many details of a modern city-dweller—jackets, trench coats, swing dresses, eyelet embroidery, lace and more—that embodies the nourishments of city life and the confident charm of a city that is essentially irreplaceable.

A New York Theatricality

Once the element of mystery is added, all the stories come true. Set in a fantastical garden, Thom Browne’s SS22 ready-to-wear collection is filled with mesmerizing colors as the models are surrounded by statues of flower-covered sculptures. The show opens with models in horse-shaped headpieces, cycling down the runway. Inspired by British novelist J.G. Ballard’s short story, “The Garden of Time,” Browne’s design is a salute to the damaged sculptures and works of art that appeared in the story—the half-sleeve look, straightly tailored pants, or even the exaggerated makeup with paint strokes across the face. And of course, Thom Browne’s iconic suit is present in the show too, but with many twists. From the trompe l’oeil detailing, sleeveless suits, to dresses and skirts, these elements add a feminine, innovative touch to the original minimalist style. A love letter to American fashion, Thom Browne’s SS22 show is a celebration of a clashing beauty and marks the new chapter of the designer’s return to his hometown city.

Afternoon Tea Party

When it comes to fashion week, it is always a pleasure waiting for Moschino’s ready-to-wear collection. Creative director Jeremy Scott always channels his unlimited imagination and fun heart to create a world of Moschino that is happy and carefree, regardless of how impossible it is. Isn’t this what we need, to momentarily escape our reality to enjoy some fun?

Entitled “Ladies Who Lunch,” the show features model Gigi Hadid wearing a strapless gown printed with friendly cartoon animals, paired with yellow heels and a large baby bottle, a look that instantly stole the show. Moschino’s show is also a nod to Fran Drescher’s 1990 classic movie The Nanny. From the innovative but elegant flower crowns, ’60s preppy style skirt suits, to knitwear dresses and more, every look is a mixture of lady-like style and childish fun. The kitschy motifs—cubs with kites, poodles topped with flower crowns, seals playing with striped beach balls, giraffes handling flower carts—are all a celebration of spring and a subtly sweet irony that is inviting us to never stop daydreaming!

American Classic

Speaking of American fashion, Coach is basically the synonym of American classic. With a bold, avant-garde style, Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers perfectly expresses the creative energy of New York City. This new collection is based on American classics and reinvents traditions through a modern perspective. The best representation of American culture is perhaps versatility and New York City is the perfect example. Like a love letter addressed to the Big Apple, Coach’s SS22 collection not only celebrates iconic landmarks such as Central Park, Zabar’s, Serendipity, Brooklyn Bridge and more, but also highlights the way the city serves as a global muse for creators from all around the world. In terms of the designs, we see brighter colors, houndstooth patterns, plaid and street style jeans, a reminder of all the different people we see every day on the subway. Meanwhile, following the growing digital trend, Coach also live broadcasted the show as a special episode on Coach TV: Public Access. As if honoring modernity, it embodies a positive, uplifting spirit that aspires for a better and brighter future.

Tory Burch SS22 collection.

Welcome to the Carnival

We probably don’t even need music to start dancing at Tory Burch’s SS22 ready-to-wear show. Finally returning to in-person, the new collection is inspired by the iconic block party that we haven’t had for months. Taking over the streets of SoHo, Tory Burch’s block party invited diners at a slew of local bars and restaurants to join the fun. As the music started, models wearing the latest SS22 collection walked down Mercer Street casually. With bold color blocks and unique tailoring, the clothing gives off feelings of a foreign country with a touch of South American carnival ambiance.

We probably don’t even need music to start dancing at Tory Burch’s SS22 ready-to-wear show. Finally returning to in-person, the new collection is inspired by the iconic block party that we haven’t had for months. Taking over the streets of SoHo, Tory Burch’s block party invited diners at a slew of local bars and restaurants to join the fun. As the music started, models wearing the latest SS22 collection walked down Mercer Street casually. With bold color blocks and unique tailoring, the clothing gives off feelings of a foreign country with a touch of South American carnival ambiance.

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