_{TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang}

揮舞著女權旗幟高喊口號的同時，有一群時尚藝術工作者們用服裝作為載體，以隱晦、抽象的方式表達出女性主義，明確且強烈的訴說著展現女性魅力與特徵沒有不對，大膽的袒露女性形象與張揚浮誇的戲劇效果，在現今時代下女性為了自己而著裝，不再為取悅男性而生。

極致曲線

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什麼決定了社會主流審美價值觀？總是陳腔濫調的說著健康美，主打著口號和各種提倡自然的文宣轟炸下，亞洲主流審美依然沒有受到太大的改變，即便是在文化反思下依然保存著亞洲市場單一的女性形象。推移到時裝歷史中，時尚鬼才 Jean Paul Gaultier 打破傳統美學，將緊身馬甲與錐形胸脯形狀躍於大眾面前，此舉動不僅僅是浮誇的視覺效果，更是顛覆道德與傳統底線。當年的天后 Madonna 總是一舉就能引領潮流，深植於80年代眾人的心。而 Jean Paul Gaultier 不按牌理出牌、沒有性別之分，沒有特定限制的藝術風格深受 Madonna 的喜愛，於 1990 年巡迴演唱會中穿上了來自 Jean Paul Gaultier 的錐形馬甲裝，此舉動轟動時裝娛樂圈，內衣外穿風潮也因為 Madonna 而成為經典。Madonna 的前衛與瘋狂提倡著擁抱身體，接納自己，活出自信。

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而看著極具裸露、貼身展現身材曲線與設計形象誇張的 Mugler，感到的是前所未有的自由風氣以及女人身體重獲解脫的自主權，Thierry Mugler 的作品中不見現今講究的實用性和功能性，反倒強調的多是對時尚藝術性和精神性的追求，我們可以看到大量刻畫的欲女形象，不避諱且毫不保留表達對於肉體的渴望，以藝術性的姿態不追求單一的身材審美，在秀中可以看到各種身型比例，各種膚色種族，各種多樣性風格呈現的模特，她們大膽且自信，極致性感危險，猶如玫瑰帶刺。

服裝與身題之間

今年 2021 LVMH prize 公布決賽入圍名單時，看到了許多新銳時尚設計師，其中包含唯一入圍的中國設計師 Rui，透過服裝展現「第二層肌膚」，看似柔軟單薄的針織布料緊貼於女性身上，流露出女性柔美的身形曲線。可以是剝落寂寥之感，可以是豐富層次綻放，色彩對比、破洞碰撞堆疊出一種看似不完美的完美。設計師 Rui Zhou 的作品有著濃厚的日本侘寂風格，宛如即將凋零的玫瑰花，有種絢爛過後寂靜孤寂的美感。 而 Rui 透露出設計背後的靈感來源於海洋，柔軟的海浪波打於肌膚，讓 Rui Zhou 的服飾呈現著優雅的波浪狀。她的設計受到了韓國性感女歌手泫雅、天后蔡依林、歐美流行歌手 Dua Lipa 等女星的賞識，在 MV與雜誌拍攝接可以看見 Rui 的設計。

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As society chants the slogans of feminism, a group of fashion artists are using garments as a medium to show their support through ways that are abstract and subtle. Straightforward and enthusiastic, they want to tell the world that there is nothing wrong with expressing the charm of femininity. Boldly revealing the concept of feminism through exaggerated thematic effects, women nowadays are no longer dressing to please men, but for their own satisfaction and self hood.

Body Says

What defines beauty? We are always advocating for health and beauty and bombarded with slogans and advertisements that are pro-nature, and yet, the trending aesthetics in Asia remain rather unchanged. The image of Asian females is preserved in its simplicity

Known for its fetishistic and exaggerated designs, Mugler is a brand that emphasizes an unprecedented freedom and the right for women to liberate their bodies. Straying away from functionality, Thierry Mugler’s work focuses more on the pursuit of art, fashion and spirituality that fully embraces bodily desires. At the runway shows, we also see models of all kinds of body shapes, ethnicities and styles. Bold, confident and seductive, they are like roses with stems that can be extremely dangerous. The brand’s current creative director, Casey Cadwallader has perfectly combined his renewed fascination with Thierry Mulger’s vintage work in his SS20 collection. Opening the show with Bella Hadid in a cropped jacket, net corset and derrière-lifting stockings, the look was said to be the most “Muglerian” to date. Meanwhile, a lover of architectural features, Cadwallader also combined 3D-printed fabrics to highlight each woman’s unique curves in order to avoid the uncomfortable feeling of being stuck in corsets and other tight-fitting clothing. Offering the ultimate comfort, his style is beloved by celebrities and fashion icons—Beyoncé, Billie Eilish, Dua Lipa and Blackpink’s Lisa—and celebrates feminine charm and beauty.

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In Between Bodies and Fabrics

Among the nominators of the 2021 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers was Rui Zhou, a New York-based Chinese designer who designed her clothing as a second skin. The seemingly soft and thin knitted fabric clings to the female body, revealing the beautiful, feminine curves. It can be a feeling of loneliness, a blooming of layers, or the clash between colors and peekaboo cut-outs that creates this imperfect perfection. With a Japanese Wabi-Sabi style, Zhou’s works, like dying roses, reveal a strength in their delicacy. Inspired by the ocean, Zhou wanted her designs to resemble the tenderness of waves and create a sensation of water brushing against the skin. Drawing the attention of big names in the industry, her clothes can be seen on celebrities and singers like Hyuna, Jolin Tsai and Dua Lipa.

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