FASHION

擁抱身體 Embrace the Body   

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

揮舞著女權旗幟高喊口號的同時,有一群時尚藝術工作者們用服裝作為載體,以隱晦、抽象的方式表達出女性主義,明確且強烈的訴說著展現女性魅力與特徵沒有不對,大膽的袒露女性形象與張揚浮誇的戲劇效果,在現今時代下女性為了自己而著裝,不再為取悅男性而生。

極致曲線

什麼決定了社會主流審美價值觀?總是陳腔濫調的說著健康美,主打著口號和各種提倡自然的文宣轟炸下,亞洲主流審美依然沒有受到太大的改變,即便是在文化反思下依然保存著亞洲市場單一的女性形象。推移到時裝歷史中,時尚鬼才 Jean Paul Gaultier 打破傳統美學,將緊身馬甲與錐形胸脯形狀躍於大眾面前,此舉動不僅僅是浮誇的視覺效果,更是顛覆道德與傳統底線。當年的天后 Madonna 總是一舉就能引領潮流,深植於80年代眾人的心。而 Jean Paul Gaultier 不按牌理出牌、沒有性別之分,沒有特定限制的藝術風格深受 Madonna 的喜愛,於 1990 年巡迴演唱會中穿上了來自 Jean Paul Gaultier 的錐形馬甲裝,此舉動轟動時裝娛樂圈,內衣外穿風潮也因為 Madonna 而成為經典。Madonna 的前衛與瘋狂提倡著擁抱身體,接納自己,活出自信。

而看著極具裸露、貼身展現身材曲線與設計形象誇張的 Mugler,感到的是前所未有的自由風氣以及女人身體重獲解脫的自主權,Thierry Mugler 的作品中不見現今講究的實用性和功能性,反倒強調的多是對時尚藝術性和精神性的追求,我們可以看到大量刻畫的欲女形象,不避諱且毫不保留表達對於肉體的渴望,以藝術性的姿態不追求單一的身材審美,在秀中可以看到各種身型比例,各種膚色種族,各種多樣性風格呈現的模特,她們大膽且自信,極致性感危險,猶如玫瑰帶刺。

超模Bella Hadid 為Mugler 2020春季時裝系列走秀。

現任 Mugler 時裝設計總監 Casey Cadwallader 正是把 Thierry Mugler 的極致魅力融合了現代輪廓,2020 春夏秀場系列 Bella Hadid 以短款夾克、網狀緊身胸衣和提拉褲襪開場,不僅在社交媒體圈廣為瘋傳,更被認為是最極具 Muglerian 風格,同時也奠定了Casey Cadwallader 以獨到設計風格塑造了屬於他的 Mugler 。另外,熱愛建築元素的 Casey Cadwallader 將服裝透過 3D 針織面料結合身體強調每個人獨特的女性曲線,也讓穿著者更加自由和輕鬆,不必為了營造身體曲線而被馬甲勒緊或是為了達到美,不舒服也在所不惜之感受。他的設計風格讓所有女性,包含時尚Icon、巨星歌手都深受喜愛。天后碧昂絲 Beyoncé 穿著 Mugler 若隱若現的緊身衣登上英國版《Vogue》封面,怪奇比莉 Billie Eilish 一改寬鬆休閒作風,穿上 Mugler 黑色透視裝,展現極致性感。新生代 Dua Lipa、韓國天團 Blackpink 成員 Lisa 穿著 Mugler 展現無與倫比的女性魅力與獨特性感。

服裝與身題之間

今年 2021 LVMH prize 公布決賽入圍名單時,看到了許多新銳時尚設計師,其中包含唯一入圍的中國設計師 Rui,透過服裝展現「第二層肌膚」,看似柔軟單薄的針織布料緊貼於女性身上,流露出女性柔美的身形曲線。可以是剝落寂寥之感,可以是豐富層次綻放,色彩對比、破洞碰撞堆疊出一種看似不完美的完美。設計師 Rui Zhou 的作品有著濃厚的日本侘寂風格,宛如即將凋零的玫瑰花,有種絢爛過後寂靜孤寂的美感。 而 Rui 透露出設計背後的靈感來源於海洋,柔軟的海浪波打於肌膚,讓 Rui Zhou 的服飾呈現著優雅的波浪狀。她的設計受到了韓國性感女歌手泫雅、天后蔡依林、歐美流行歌手 Dua Lipa 等女星的賞識,在 MV與雜誌拍攝接可以看見 Rui 的設計。

Nensi Dojaka 2021春季時裝系列。

除此之外,2021 LVMH prize 最終贏家由阿爾巴尼亞裔英國籍時裝設計師 Nensi Dojaka 獲得大獎,Nensi Dojaka 的設計與 Rui 有著異曲同工之妙,兩個人的相似之處皆探索著人與服裝、社會與尺度的關係,挑戰著衣服與身體產生的空間可能性。Nensi Dojaka 用服裝證明她筆下的女性並非以誘惑為目的,她的設計主要來自於 90 年代,以不規則剪裁、黑色薄紗層次堆疊、垂墜的透明材質,彷彿貼身內衣般向女性線條致敬,她的設計從來都不是為男性而生。最後,美就是不停在變化的,比起外顯、張揚,女性思潮如今更佳細膩,女性對於身體的解放更是藝術與精神化,宛如第二層肌膚纏繞於身體,擁抱自由,擁抱多樣化的女性形象。

As society chants the slogans of feminism, a group of fashion artists are using garments as a medium to show their support through ways that are abstract and subtle. Straightforward and enthusiastic, they want to tell the world that there is nothing wrong with expressing the charm of femininity. Boldly revealing the concept of feminism through exaggerated thematic effects, women nowadays are no longer dressing to please men, but for their own satisfaction and self hood.

Body Says

What defines beauty? We are always advocating for health and beauty and bombarded with slogans and advertisements that are pro-nature, and yet, the trending aesthetics in Asia remain rather unchanged. The image of Asian females is preserved in its simplicity

Madonna wearing Jean Paul Gaultier’s pink conical corset during her Blond Ambition tour in Japan, 1990. (Source: online)

On the other hand, if we look at the history of ready-to-wear, Jean Paul Gaultier had always been challenging traditional beauty standards with his frequent use of feminine corsetry and conical bras in his designs. This was not only a demonstration of visual effect, but also a dismantling of morality and conventions. Gaultier’s unpredictable, genderless and unrestrained style became Madonna’s absolute favorite. An ’80s icon, she chose to wear the emblematic pink conical bra designed by Gaultier on her Blond Ambition tour in 1990. Subversive and iconic, her take on the undergarment quickly became the new trend that was calling for everyone to embrace their body and live with confidence.

Known for its fetishistic and exaggerated designs, Mugler is a brand that emphasizes an unprecedented freedom and the right for women to liberate their bodies. Straying away from functionality, Thierry Mugler’s work focuses more on the pursuit of art, fashion and spirituality that fully embraces bodily desires. At the runway shows, we also see models of all kinds of body shapes, ethnicities and styles. Bold, confident and seductive, they are like roses with stems that can be extremely dangerous. The brand’s current creative director, Casey Cadwallader has perfectly combined his renewed fascination with Thierry Mulger’s vintage work in his SS20 collection. Opening the show with Bella Hadid in a cropped jacket, net corset and derrière-lifting stockings, the look was said to be the most “Muglerian” to date. Meanwhile, a lover of architectural features, Cadwallader also combined 3D-printed fabrics to highlight each woman’s unique curves in order to avoid the uncomfortable feeling of being stuck in corsets and other tight-fitting clothing. Offering the ultimate comfort, his style is beloved by celebrities and fashion icons—Beyoncé, Billie Eilish, Dua Lipa and Blackpink’s Lisa—and celebrates feminine charm and beauty.

In Between Bodies and Fabrics

Among the nominators of the 2021 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers was Rui Zhou, a New York-based Chinese designer who designed her clothing as a second skin. The seemingly soft and thin knitted fabric clings to the female body, revealing the beautiful, feminine curves. It can be a feeling of loneliness, a blooming of layers, or the clash between colors and peekaboo cut-outs that creates this imperfect perfection. With a Japanese Wabi-Sabi style, Zhou’s works, like dying roses, reveal a strength in their delicacy. Inspired by the ocean, Zhou wanted her designs to resemble the tenderness of waves and create a sensation of water brushing against the skin. Drawing the attention of big names in the industry, her clothes can be seen on celebrities and singers like Hyuna, Jolin Tsai and Dua Lipa.

Nensi Dojaka Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection.

Meanwhile, Nensi Dojaka, an Albanian womenswear designer based in London, was the one who stood out among the nine finalists and won the LVMH Prize. Similar to Zhou’s work, Dojaka also focuses on exploring the space between the skin and the fabric. By challenging the boundaries of societal expectations, she lets her designs prove that women do not dress to seduce. Drawing inspirations from the ’90s, Dojaka’s designs pay homage to female undergarments with her deconstructed, sheer black materials that blur the line between underwear and eveningwear with a touch of mystery. In the end, beauty is ever-changing. The idea of feminism is more delicate than ever and the liberation of the female body has transcended into a form of art and spirituality. Like a second skin embracing the body, we can finally welcome this new found freedom through a variety of feminine images.

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