大自然的魔法師 | Tiffany & Co. 珠寶奇才Jean Schlumberger

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

大自然生態經常被珠寶設計師作為靈感泉源。不同時期、不同文化、不同藝術流派,詮釋大自然的方式都不同。然而最擅長以大自然作為珠寶題材的設計師中,有一個你不可以不知道的名字:Jean Schlumberger。

提及這位1907年出生於法國東北部Alsace區一個紡織世家的Jean Schlumberger,許多人最先聯想到的便是美國高級珠寶品牌Tiffany & Co.。他為人相當低調,除了擅長以大自然作為設計題材,其作品用色大膽、輪廓立體豐腴,和1920年代盛行的裝飾藝術風格、以及1930、1940年代熱門的「機械風格設計」形成強烈而新鮮的對比。他雖然看似與當時的主流背道而馳,卻成功樹立了自己獨一無二的風格。這在當時被視為非常前衛,但即便在今時今日看來,依然充滿現代感,完全不像是近一百年前推出的珠寶設計。

第二次世界大戰後,Schlumberger遷居至美國紐約,並開設了自己的小型珠寶專賣店。他的作品深受當地創意名流圈,隨後於紐約時尚圈名聲大噪的Schlumberger更引起了Tiffany & Co.的關注。1956年,他正式受聘於這家紐約最著名的珠寶商,除了給予他創立自己部門的權益之外,Tiffany & Co也提供Schlumberger大量的「彩色寶石」,以及一切他所需的資源,供他發揮創意,創造出自己心目中最美麗、夢幻的璀璨珠寶。在Tiffany & Co.任職三十餘年的Jean Schlumberger,創造了許多讓人為之驚豔的作品,其中有許多至今仍被視為品牌旗下最經典的珠寶。尤其是他的海洋生物珠寶系列(例如鑲滿彩色寶石的海星、海葵胸針),用色大膽的各式花型珠寶,以及深受已故美國第一夫人賈奎琳肯尼迪(Jackie Kennedy)喜愛的黃金搭琺瑯手鐲等,至今於珠寶界仍被視為經典名作。

Jean Schlumberger的作品,以豪邁的體積、多變而立體的造型與不對稱的輪廓著稱;哪怕跨越百年,感覺依然新穎、耐看。當然,Jean Schlumberger為Tiffany & Co.設計過最著名、辨識度最高的珠寶,應該莫過於Bird on the Rock胸針。實際上,如果你深入了解Tiffany & Co.之所以能在珠寶界鑲有今時今日的地位,Jean Schlumberger的設計天賦是功不可沒。

Mother Nature has often served as a source of inspiration for jewelry designers. Regardless of the time period, culture or artistic genre, everyone has his or her own way of interpretation. Among all nature-themed designers, there is one name you must recognize: Jean Schlumberger.

Born into a prominent family of textile manufacturers in Alsace, France, Jean Schlumberger was best known for his role as Tiffany & Co.’s jewelry designer. Having always kept a low profile, he not only drew inspiration from nature, but also incorporated bold colors and three-dimensional designs—a strong contrast with the Art Deco style that prevailed in the 1920s and the popular Industrialism-inspired art in the 1930s and 1940s. Although his work didn’t fit with the mainstream, Schlumberger successfully established a style of his own. Considered as avant garde during his time, his legacy is still being considered as modernistic and innovative in our present time, making us forget that they were created over a hundred years ago.

After World War II, Schlumberger found his way to New York City and opened up his own jewelry shop. Not only was his creativity beloved by celebrities and socialites, his designs also caught the eye of Tiffany & Co., one of the most established jewelry companies in the city. In 1956, Schlumberger was hired as a Vice President of the company, given his own customized design studio and provided with an unlimited supply of the finest color stones. During his 30 years at Tiffany & Co., he created some of the most spectacular jewelry designs, many of them are still regarded as the most classic collections of the brand. A few of the notable collections are the Colors of Nature series, which includes the Five Leaves earrings and the Sea Anemone brooch, and the Paillonne bracelets beloved by Jackie Kennedy.

With their noticeable volume, variable designs and distinctive silhouette, Schlumberger’s works are still innovative and timeless. And of course, his most acclaimed and renowned jewelry piece is definitely the Bird on the Rock brooch. It is undeniable that Jean Schlumberger’s talent, brilliance and legacy is one of the reasons Tiffany & Co. achieved its eminent position in the industry today.


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