FASHION

In Style: A Revolutionary Uproar 革命喧囂

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

經典隨著時間的年輪推進,在新的時代重現。
Advancing with time, the classics are reinterpreted in this new era. 

流動風暴

已故的義大利《Vogue》主編 Franca Sozzani 曾如此評價說:流蘇不會消失,它總會回來,不管以何種方式。流蘇的更迭不過 5至10 年就會回來一次,像是在說道流蘇就是時尚王道,從來不會過時。隨身體擺動而搖曳生姿的流蘇,在服裝可以起到很好的點綴作用,一件在普通不過的大衣,也會因為流蘇的點綴增加時尚效果,可以是自然不羈的波希米亞遊牧風格又或是粗毛絨流蘇的冬季摩登感,甚至是細絲流蘇如水的流動線條感,在每個動作的擺動下綻放悠然的美感。流動的線條在精巧、細膩的羽毛中體現的淋漓盡致,羽毛常運用於高級訂製服中,羽毛刺繡的精巧工藝,展現浪漫溫柔的豐盈飄逸效果。由 Daniel Lee 執掌的 Bottega Veneta 分為 Wardrobe 以及 Salon 系列,而 Salon 靈感是源於高級訂製服黃金年代的私密展示,往後的每季也都將延續此概念發表新作。其中 Salon 02 最為吸睛的鴕鳥羽毛造型套裝皆採純手工縫製,每件單品上皆有著多達4,000根羽毛裝飾,耗時100小時才能完成。完全展現了Bottega Veneta的工藝追求。在隨風飄逸的流動風暴中,增加秋冬風格的層次感受。

(左圖 BottegaVeneta Fall 21)

捲土重來

時尚秀永遠在重播,Foldover Boots 的熱潮才剛要開始。2021 秋冬鞋款趨勢驗證了一點:時尚永遠是輪迴的,設計師於昔日的基礎上,設計出更多佳作。畢竟時尚永遠不能被複製,但可以被追隨。談論起復古輪迴,2021 秋冬系列與 2022 春夏系列不約而同訴說著 80、90 年代下的黃金時尚年華。Foldover Boots 在秋冬掀起了革命,早在 2000 千禧年時成為了明顯的趨勢,在傳統鞋靴加上一層包裹的裝飾,例如針織面料、皮草、皮革等等,泡泡襪風格也在當時成為了主流,成為了千禧世代的時尚靈魂。其中 Maison Margiela 更是在解構風中將靴加入了牛仔拼接與繫帶,Chanel 於2010年推出褲管靴設計,Givenchy 早在 2012 年秋冬秀場中推出雙層錯視長靴,在 2017 秋冬系列復刻了2012年長靴,更是將它進化一管到底直接遮蓋住腳掌,多出了一分秋冬季凜冽感。到今年2021秋冬秀場中,略微誇張的寬筒靴再次回歸,硬挺的皮革加上 Givenchy 獨特的鎖扣標誌,融合復古廓形與現代摩登風格。JW Anderson 也推出新形式的褲管靴,今年秋冬的時尚輪迴,由一雙靴款訴說,經典隨著時間的年輪推進,在新的時代重現。

(左圖 JW ANDERSON褲管靴)

色彩王者

有一種綠叫「 BV綠 」。今年潮流色是什麼?也許望相由 Daniel Lee 執掌的 Bottega Veneta 就知道了!這股綠色風潮在時尚界發燒,奠定了Bottega Veneta 於時尚圈的非凡影響力。此季,正是要大聲宣布 BV 電波藍的色彩革命即將來襲。以高光澤度的漆皮加上帶有湖水色調的藍,折射出太陽灑下那波光粼粼的美感。一眼望去變過目不忘,想必在過不久屬於 BV 的電波藍便能轟炸社交媒體圈,成為今年秋冬的色彩王者。

肩上輪廓

秋冬的盛宴以極簡輪廓加入經典品牌基因,從 2020 年起腋下包的風潮一路推向最高點,且似乎完全沒有減退的意思。在復古風潮與千禧年風的盛行下,腋下包的輕巧的背在肩上,解放雙手外,又能容納許多小物品,完全是時尚潮人們的首選。CELINE TABOU CLUTCH小牛皮革鎖頭肩背包,以半橢圓的包身輪廓加上鎖釦展現出別緻典雅,另外推出經典老花帆布以及小牛皮款式,無論是肩背或是手拿都一樣能散發優雅氣息。在秋冬的時刻,也可以挑選長背帶的肩帶包,在冬季厚重的衣身外,完美的肩背款式滿足現代、強大的女性時尚氣場,又能夠實現機能性的渴望。

(左圖 CELINE TABOU CLUTCH小牛皮革鎖頭肩背包)

Feather Craze 

The late editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, Franca Sozzani once said fringes will never disappear because they will always come back, no matter what. Returning every five to ten years, it is as if it never goes out of fashion. Adding this simple feature, a plain coat becomes fashionable and chic, an everyday look becomes Bohemian, nomadic, or winterly modern. Even the garments becomes a leisurely beauty that flow like rippling water. In a similar way, feathers also create this delicately flowy feeling. Often used in Haute Couture, feather embroidery becomes the embodiment of a gentle romance. Under the hands of creative director Daniel Lee, Bottega Veneta introduces two different series—Wardrobe and Salon. Inspired by the private showings of Haute Couture held during the Gold Age, the Salon collection channels the same concept of privacy into all of its lines. One of the most noteworthy pieces of Salon 02 is definitely the hand-sewn ostrich feather jumpsuit. For this collection, 4,000 feathers are used per garment, with 100 hours of work—a proof of the Italian fashion house’s persistence towards impeccable artisanship. 

Major Comebacks 

Fashion shows are like a replay of trends because foldover boots are about to make a comeback. The AW21 shoes trend proved one point: fashion is an unending cycle. Drawing inspirations from past collections, designers are reimagining classics. Although fashion cannot be replicated, it can be followed. Speaking of the return of vintage looks, both AW21 and SS22 collections are paying their tribute to the Golden Age of the ‘80s and ‘90s. Having already made their appearance in 2000, foldover boots are making their way back to this upcoming season. By adding a layer above traditional boots with materials like knitted fabrics, fur and leather, foldover boots were often styled with loose socks, an iconic look of Y2K fashion. Following the trend of deconstructing, Maison Margiela incorporates denim patchworks and laces into its boots. While Chanel introduced calf high boots back in 2010, Givenchy also added the iconic gaiter boots into its AW12 collection, which was reinterpreted again in 2017 by extending them so that the leather covered the feet entirely. And now, arriving at AW21, the exaggerated wide boots are back and adorned with Givenchy’s unique emblem, a blend of vintage and chic modernity. JW Anderson also launches a collection of new foldover boots with a distinctive design. With a single pair of footwear, we see the return of past trends, a reinterpretation of a classic that is back with a touch of novelty. 

Color of the Year 

What is the color of the year? Could it be the racing Bottega Green? Let Daniel Lee tell you his answer. Becoming the polarizing shade of this year, this new tint of green is a testament of Bottega Veneta’s influence on the industry. This season is all about the craze over this bold emerald hue that can be seen everywhere. With the glossy patent leather, Bottega Green precisely captures the reflecting water under the blazing sun. Unforgettable once it catches your attention, this shade has already made its way onto every social media platform, undeniably becoming the pioneer in this game of colors. 

Shoulder Silhouettes 

Incorporating iconic brand DNAs into minimalist designs, hobo bags had already inspired a trend in 2020 and it seems like it’s not stopping. With the rise of retro fashion and Y2K trends, the underarm bag is convenient and the perfect choice for any occasion with its excessive storage space. Half-moon shaped, the CELINE Tabou Clutch in calfskin is the definition of elegance with the addition of a decorative lock. This model also comes in the emblematic Triomphe canvas and smooth calfskin, both equally graceful and chic. In the upcoming season, why not add an extra layer to all the heavy winter clothing with the perfect shoulder bag, an instant boost of feminine individuality that also fulfills the need of functionality. 

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