TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
“Lights out, follow the noise. Baby, keep on dancing like you ain’t got a choice”
一首《physical》復古 synth-pop 開場，道出了2022 春夏時裝系列的解放趨勢。同樣有著迪斯可舞曲的律動感，彷彿回到80、90的美好時光，而千禧年時尚風格徹底回歸了！高飽和度的色彩搭配，低腰緊身褲與低腰迷你裙，無肩帶緊身上衣，這些極致裸露大量面積肌膚、極致的繽紛色彩玩味，這些標誌性元素再次亮相於時裝週伸展台，完美詮釋了後疫情時代的新性感。透露著享樂主義，解放自我，重獲新生的釋放。
疫情後居家運動的成果，也許在 2022 春夏就可以派上用場了！是否已經厭倦近幾年來的復古高腰風格，MiuMiu 2022 春夏時裝週以服裝大膽宣言，此次大秀無疑是超短低腰加上「炫腹」女孩的主場。一瞬間像是回到千禧年，背景音樂播放著朗朗上口的布蘭妮（Britney Spears）歌曲，搭配著摯愛的露肚臍超低腰裝，一個回眸都是時光靜止。MiuMiu 這一季不只是千禧年的時尚回歸，更是將無性別穿搭小男孩的志氣與小女孩的可愛平衡的恰到好處，沒有看到以往大量應用的蝴蝶結、荷葉邊、學生制服的套裝，取而代之的是卡其色、灰色、藍色、黑色等等的中行色調，性別模糊的設計風格讓回憶與現在交織，致敬著曾經叛逆的那個小女孩如今的張揚與柔軟渾然天成。
有些神經質、些許迷幻，Loewe 創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 將 2022 春夏女裝帶入一場全新的旅程，用極具藝術創意的手法，且充滿實驗意味，以刺激、感性、動感的筆調打破了以往的設計界線，扭曲、轉移的創作手法展現在一套套立體垂墜百褶剪裁的服裝，以雕塑與色彩的內涵進入屬於創作者獨特迷人的時空境界同時也展現了微妙變化的美學觀。一件件扭曲的服裝廓形、鑲嵌金屬胸甲的大衣，連身裙及襪褲，打破常規的服裝就看你敢不敢挑戰。而 Louis Vuitton 的廓形變奏宛如降臨 19 世紀，加入一段穿越時空的浮華舞會。創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 不僅回到過去，更是將 19 世紀的元素結合現代摩登，浮誇的襯裙有著俐落的角度，點綴著迷幻金色圖騰，宛如懸掛於天的幻彩水晶燈。廓形變奏不僅僅展現於服裝本身，更是體現於配件及包款上，各種經典包款的扭曲、放大、變形。敬請期待明年春夏，為一場不按牌理出牌的浮誇與藝術之旅。
才說著 2021的春夏是一場極簡、低飽和色彩的居家樂園，那麼即將迎來的 2022 則是遊戲場景與鮮豔亮色系的 Disco 舞廳，奔放體驗結合著視覺震撼效果。陽光黃、亮橘、海軍藍、豌豆綠與莓果色，鮮豔高飽和的色彩宛如萬花筒於秀場中央綻放。Dior 女裝創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 以前任創意總監 Marc Bohan 的設計歷程為藍圖，將 1961 年的 Slim Look 為核心，延伸至時裝本身。並在由藝術家 Anna Paparatti 打造的絢彩空間裝置藝術《The Game of Nonsense》（胡謅遊戲）中像是撞球檯上的花球被擊出般盡情碰撞，盡情閃爍、舞動。而 Versace 鮮豔本色的妖姬靈魂在本季中噴發，完全不隱諱的彰顯出屬於Versace 女孩的樣子，此次運用了大面積高飽和度的色彩，是撩人、性感、貼身也是活力四射、動感、激情。Valentino 也以對比性強烈的色譜令2022春夏系列這場「加法遊戲」更為豐富精彩。是時候以色彩大膽展現自我了！於後疫情時代展現每個女人瘋狂、狂放的自我魅力。
“Lights out, follow the noise. Baby, keep on dancing like you ain’t got a choice.” A line from the song “Physical” perfectly introduces the SS22 ready-to-wear collection and its liberating trend. With the same disco rhythm, it is as if we are back to the good times of the ‘80s and ‘90s—finally, Y2K fashion returns. From the high-saturated colors, low-rise jeans and miniskirts, to the strapless, tight-fitting tops, more skin is revealed and more colors are being used. This year, these iconic elements once again take over our runway shows and capture the “new sexy” of our post-pandemic world, an expression encouraging us to seize the day, liberate ourselves and enjoy this energetic rebirth.
The New Sexy
Boldly showcasing their feminine charm, modern day women are not afraid of exposing their body shape and skin. The “new sexy” sees sexiness as an attitude to life; instead of trying to please others, women dress for themselves, and themselves only. We have absolute free will and the freedom to live sexily. In this post-pandemic era, the liberating and sexy look takes over SS22 Fashion Week. As we see an array of cut-out tops, bras, high-waisted swimsuit shorts and tight-fitting maxi skirts appear on stage, a diversified feminine sensuality finally comes to light.
Low-Rise is Back
After all the working out during lockdown, perhaps it is time to show off our new body for the upcoming spring season. Straying away from the retro high-waisted style, Miu Miu SS22 ready-to-wear makes a bold statement with all the low-rise bottoms. With Britney Spears’s iconic songs playing in the background, the show instantly takes us back to year 2000 as models walk on stage with elongated midriffs. The new season not only welcomes the return of Y2K fashion, but also reintroduces a balance between boyish looks and adorable ladywear. Instead of ribbons, ruffles and preppy skirts, we see neutral colors like khaki, grey, blue and black. The gender neutral designs blend together the past and present, a tribute to the rebellious little girl residing in every woman’s heart, who had now grown up to be a mature, gentle and independent woman.
Neurotic and a bit psychedelic, Loewe’s SS22 collection embarks on a new journey. Experimenting with artistic creations, Jonathan Anderson outdoes himself again with exciting, sentimental and provocative designs. Playing around with draping and sculpting, he invites us to enter a temporal realm in which his unique sense of beauty is displayed. Sculptural dresses, coats incorporated with metal plates, exaggerated proportions—nothing is considered conventional. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton takes us back to the 19th century by presenting us with a grand ball of time. Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière not only travels back in time, but also incorporates the art nouveau details with modern fashion. Like a fantastical chandelier, the pannier dresses are embellished with mesmerizing gold totems. The play on shapes can be seen on garments, accessories and even on bags, setting us up for a sequel next year where the house will take us on another unpredictable journey of art.
All the Bright Colors
After a season of minimalistic style and low-saturated colors, we have now arrived at a 2022 colorful imaginary board game under swirling disco lights. From bright yellow, orange, navy blue, pea green to berry pink, the high-saturated colors together bloom like a kaleidoscope at the center of the venue. Looking into Dior’s archives, Maria Grazia Chiuri reimagines former creative director Marc Bohan’s 1961 Slim Look collection and expands it to her new season. Working with Italian artist Anna Paparatti, the show is surrounded by colorful decor and board-game-themed Pop art inspired by the artist’s work, “The Game of Nonsense.” On the other hand, Versace’s SS22 ready-to-wear collection proudly shows the world what it really means to be a Versace girl. Huge blocks of high-saturated colors radiate with a sense of seduction, but also with energy and passion, a statement calling for women from all over the world—it is time to show off our true colors and express our best and craziest self.