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2022春夏趨勢  色彩王者|SS22 Trends Report: King of Colors

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

以色彩區分品牌識別實在是一種很獨到的手段,顏色衝擊著視覺最前線,年末璀璨星光的假日系列與2022春夏系列,以繽紛的瘋狂為題,為節日抹上一層閃耀;BOTTEGA VENETA 一波又一波的時髦浪潮襲捲全球,Daniel Lee 以他獨到風格詮釋了全新美學理念及靈感,全新的 SALON 03 Detroit 春夏大秀完全沒有留給喘息空間,就這樣使人迷失在 BV 的綠色風暴中

Distinguishing brands by colors is a unique way of identification. With colors directly impacting our visuals, the year-end series—the Holiday and SS22 collections—paints this cold winter with a dash of sparkle. Presenting us with various fashionable trends, Bottega Veneta becomes Daniel Lee’s distinctive reinterpretation of beauty and aesthetics. Without a moment for us to take a breath, the new Salon 03 SS22 in Detroit takes us on a journey as we venture into the house’s iconic Bottega Green.

SALON 03 系列,可以看出 Daniel Lee 以 BV 標誌性的綠色大做文章,各種綠色細節令人目不暇給。

綠色風暴

跳脫了時裝周的界線,BOTTEGA VENETA改以 SALON 來呈現主系列作品的方式和概念,展現超高工藝及精湛剪裁,並改以私密的小型時裝秀發表,回歸 SALON 沙龍一詞的傳統形式,同時也意味著高級訂製服黃金年代的私密展示。除此之外,這一概念也代表著踏上旅程 ,前幾季選址於倫敦與柏林,而此次全新的 SALON 03 Detroit 春夏大秀選擇於美國工業發源地底特律發表,生長在英國北方工業城里兹(Leeds)的創意總監 Daniel Lee 著迷於底特律的工業科技與創新能量,六年前初次拜訪便深受吸引,對工業城鎮充滿著無限的共鳴。也受到當地的背景氛圍與經典美式文化的啟發,SALON 03 Detroit 為​​ BOTTEGA VENETA 注入了當代新風貌,揮毫出全新美式文化篇章。

透過Salon 03系列,可以看出創意總監 Daniel Lee 以 BV 標誌性的綠色來大做文章,各種綠色細節令人目不暇給,從去年秋冬一路延燒的網球綠,蜥蜴綠與森林綠等等交織結合,在美式工裝、運動休閒風格服裝中,融合的恰到好處。就連配件中亦可感受到建築感剛硬與柔軟之間,硬挺的輪廓外型融合著澎鬆觸感,看似冷冽的未來風格其中帶有著滿溢的復古情懷,道出了相互融合的融洽與張力,完美詮釋新舊結合的無限可能。

濃厚的節慶滋味是柴火下的橙和橘、又或是屬於聖誕樹意象的紅配綠,綠色下的各種色調,有著酪梨綠絲滑奶色調,宛如掉進溫暖被窩,是文青的色澤也是溫柔的象徵,適合甜膩靜謐的冬天小木屋,也適合早春清爽冰涼的氣息 ; 叢林綠與松樹綠的交織玩趣,是森林中的迷航,擁抱大地的各種希望 ; 電光與螢光的綠色基調如暗夜叢林準備迎接瘋狂派對的狂歡者們,灑入一些神奇綠粉,一點一點攪和交織,在綠色謎團中奔放、爆炸。

璀璨星光

80年代的瘋狂、千禧年代的我行我素,亮片的閃耀重新刺入眾人的目光,舞台女主角總是需要閃耀、鮮豔與金屬光澤的奢華點綴,若你不想回到迪斯可80年代,那也一定想進入屬於紙醉金迷的美好年代。也許浮誇的美好留給過去那低調的奢華獻給此次 Versace 2022 春夏系列。當所有人都在追隨流行時,Versace就是那位不管趨勢為何者,依然我行我素的浮誇炫富豪門,充滿著野心及慾望的象徵,好似誰都代替不了,誰都遮掩不住屬於Versace的光芒,此次系列中除了品牌DNA底下的強烈、華麗以外,更是多了一絲低調與神秘,品牌設計師 Donatella Versace 運用了大面積的黑點綴隱藏於服裝下的濃艷色彩,宛如星空中劃破的一道流星,稍縱即逝的隱約與曖昧,不只將Versace狂野霸氣外露,更多了一層克制與心機,符合了既張揚又隱晦的女人心思,將年底收割揮灑屬於“新性感”的篇章。

The Verdant Craze

Breaking free from the conventions of fashion week, Bottega Veneta presents its main collection through Salon presentations, which also showcases the Italian house’s impeccable craftsmanship and tailoring. “Salon” is also a nod to the haute couture private showings commonly held during the Golden Age. Previously held in London and Berlin, the latest Salon 03 SS22 presentation is held in Detroit, the origin of American Industrialization. Born in Leeds, creative director Daniel Lee had always been drawn to Detroit’s industrial background and creative potential, ever since his first visit six years ago. Inspired by the cultural influence of the state, Salon 03 Detroit brings a new, contemporary feeling to Bottega Veneta and opens up a brand new chapter of interpreting American culture.

Through the Salon 03 collection, it isn’t hard to see Daniel Lee’s emphasis on the iconic Bottega Green. Mixed and matched, the various green shades—from last autumn’s tennis green to lizard green and forest green—are incorporated into American workwear and sportswear. Even the accessories are crafted with a mixture of architectural rigidity and tenderness. As the exaggerated silhouettes meet the puffy softness, the seemingly cold futuristic style is charged with an enriching retro ambience, a perfect interpretation of harmony and tension and the infinite potential when old is combined with the new.

The rich festivity is the wavering color of tangerine against the burning firewood, the red and green of the Christmas tree, the various hues hidden within each shade of green. Like falling into a warm quilt, the milky avocado green is a symbol of elegance and tenderness. Not only is it perfect for the sweet and quiet winter cabins, but it is also suitable for the refreshing atmosphere of early spring. On the other hand, the interwoven forest and pine green is a trek through nature that embraces the hopes of the Earth. As if ready for a raving party, the electric and neon green bases welcome the revelers with a dash of magic powder, inviting them to venture into this verdant craze.

A Stellar Night

Imagine if we’re back to the madness of the ‘80s and re-experiencing the unique ways of the Y2K generation, we will once again be surrounded by the sparkling sequins and have the opportunity to witness the actresses on stage who are embellished with the bright, glistening, metallic luster. If you don’t want to revisit the Disco ‘80s, then maybe the drunkening Belle Époque is what you need. While everyone is following the major trends, Versace chooses its own path and becomes the symbol of ambition and desire, irreplaceable and unable to be ignored. In the new SS22 collection, not only do we see the bold and lavish brand DNA, but we also find a trace of restraint and mystery. Donatella Versace used big blocks of black to embellish the rich colors hidden beneath the garments, just like a shooting star soaring through the starry night. Like a fleeting romance, the new season perfectly encapsulates the bold and obscure mind of a woman and becomes a manifestation of the “new sexy” at this end of year.

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