TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
在真正的 Dior 時尚中，美存在於細節。而那些交錯複雜的刺繡工藝真的只能在 Dior 高級訂製中找到。 In true Dior fashion, beauty is in the details. As for the intricate embroideries? They can only be found at Dior Haute Couture.
安靜，是在看完 DIOR 2022 春夏季高級訂製系列後最直觀的感受。Maria Grazia Chiuri 創造的是那種能在你的衣櫥裡放幾十年的單品，那些經典流線型輪廓，那些歷史傳承著 Dior 標誌性元素的高級刺繡，那些簡單卻又基本的黑色、白色和灰色所令人產生的共感，我想非「安靜」莫屬。此次的作品不會讓人感到過度裝飾，留下的是最簡單的廓形，有著優雅雕刻的大衣外套，經典廓形的 Bar Jacket 搭配上雪白色直筒長裙，一件肩線到胸口呈現完美弧度的長晚裝，甚至是此季最標誌性的「緊身褲」作品。刺繡圖案仍然是這一季的核心元素，重塑高訂工坊熟稔的精湛技藝，跳脫原本只是裝飾性的點綴，揮灑刺繡工藝於面料之中，讓每一塊面料都可以完美貼合。Maria Grazia Chiuri 重申高訂工坊的編排語法及設計語彙，以純粹的線條頌揚高級訂製服的本質與精髓：為身形妝點霓裳。
另外，DIOR 2022 春夏季高級訂製大秀不僅展出由Maria Grazia Chiuri 設計的64套高級訂製服，其中大秀場景更是委託來自印度孟買的 Chanakya 工藝學校打造。在 Karishma Swali 的指導下將藝術家 Madhvi Parekh 與 Manu Parekh 的藝術創作轉譯為裝飾秀場牆面宏偉瑰麗的刺繡作品。Madhvi Parekh利用藝術建構了一個幻想世界，是一個對比陌生卻又熟悉的世界，現實和超現實的交會。在這個超現實的世界中，人和自然共生。而 Manu Parekh 的藝術一直以來帶領著觀眾穿越心靈層面的風景與精神抽象，其持續不斷的堅持使他成為當代印度藝術中最獨特的創作者之一。大秀中將刺繡幻化成語言，以不同的呈現方式詮釋出一場藝術與工藝之間的對話，也是對於工坊、藝術家、服裝設計師多個角色的重視與尊重。
Calmness is the most intuitive feeling after watching Christian Dior’s SS22 Haute Couture show. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has created pieces that will last for decades for their timeless silhouettes and designs. A testament of the House’s long-established history, the embroideries are retained in a muted palette of blacks, whites and grays. From the elegantly sculpted coats, the classic Bar Jacket with a long ivory skirt, evening gowns showing the perfect curve, to the iconic statement logo tights, the collection does not feel overly-decorated because what’s left are the simplest forms. A celebration of craftsmanship, the pieces demonstrate how embroidery is not just something decorative you apply on top, but a vital component in Haute Couture construction. Redefining the typography and design vocabulary of the artisans, Maria Grazia Chiuri pays tribute to the essence of Haute Couture with the purest silhouettes: we dress for the figures.
Besides demonstrating her latest Haute Couture collection through 64 pieces, Maria Grazia Chiuri also invited Chanakya, the school of crafts in India, to help construct the walls of her show space in the garden of Musée Rodin. Under Karishma Swali’s instructing, artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh decorated the venue in highly graphic, gorgeous embroidered tapestries. Madhvi Parekh used art as her tool to construct a fantasy world, in which reality and surreality blend together to create a sense of foreign familiarity. Meanwhile, Manu Parekh continues to take the audience on a journey through spiritual landscapes and spiritual abstractions with his artwork. His persistence allowed him to be crowned as one of the most unique creators of contemporary Indian art. Transforming embroidery into a language, the show offers a dialogue between art and craft through different methods, paying respect to all the people who made the show happen—the atelier, artists and fashion designers.