BEAUTY

綻放香調 | Blooming Fragrances

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

法國詩人波特萊爾曾於他的詩中《通感》探討不同的感官可以感知到自然界事物中不同性質與關係,而這些感知事實上有共通之處,就是所謂的共感 (synaesthesia),比如聽見聲音就像是可以看見色彩,在音樂中感受顏色。而香調也有異曲同工之妙,在香調各種嗅覺的感知下,依循著嗅覺的規則,找尋隱藏成份、連結氣味的主觀感受和情境故事聯想。二月份同時也是充滿浪漫的季節,在浪漫主義的美學當中應用嗅覺投射情感,感受那無與倫比的浪漫因子嗅入靈魂,提煉青春。

In the poem “Correspondences,” French poet Charles Baudelaire explores the way our sensory perceives the variety of properties and relationships in nature. The truth is, these senses all have a common property, the so-called synesthesia. For example, we find colors in music because certain sounds might remind us of a specific color. Similarly, fragrances can achieve the same. Through different olfactory experiences, we follow our scent to discover the hidden ingredients, the subjective emotions and the stories connected to it. As we arrive in February, a season filled with romance, we project our emotions onto our sense of smell. In the aesthetics of romanticism, perceive the unparalleled romantic factor and infuse it with the soul, a refinement of youth is thus created. 

Jo Malone London全新玫瑰花語系列 浪漫巨獻

愛,是一朶花。

香調,可以依照香水最主要的氣味特徵與主要的成分香料劃分成不同的類別,如花香調、果香調、木質香調與清香調,花香調讓人聯想起春日的庭院,玫瑰花園,捧花與特別的浪漫節日,diptyque十年暢銷經典「玫瑰之水淡香水」以輕盈的摩洛哥玫瑰揉合大馬士革玫瑰,彷彿徜徉於花園香氛間的漫步,裙擺親吻清晨露水。diptyque在今年將全新「玫瑰之水淡香精」作品加入玫瑰香調大家庭,以優雅姿態為這一經典系列錦上添花。調香師 Fabrice Pellegrin 對玫瑰花卉瞭若指掌,他遴選其中最馥郁芬芳的鮮花,以最自然簡約的方式創造玫瑰之水淡香水:將整朵玫瑰浸泡於清水中,加入綠葉、少許刺棘與初生的花蕾,緩緩釋放出輕盈果香與酸澀綠意。Fabrice Pellegrin 與 diptyque 攜手調製的這款全新淡香精在演繹原初兩種玫瑰原料的同時,將其萃取為濃縮精華,令香氣更顯馥郁,這是對玫瑰每一部分的歌頌,也是對現代簡約風格的致敬。

DIPTYQUE 2022情人節限量系列
DIPTYQUE 2022限量玫瑰之水淡香水100ml_NT4,250包裝

此外,英倫香氛品牌Jo Malone London 首次推出全系列以玫瑰為主題的「玫瑰花語系列」,以最具代表性的玫瑰成份為靈感,從清新柔美到神祕性感,將代表愛與美麗風華的典範幻化為四款別具獨特意義的玫瑰香氛,以限量玻璃瓶身設計,透過深淺不同的玫瑰花為瓶身色調靈感,Jo Malone London全球香氛創意總監Céline Roux 表達:「玫瑰花語系列為展示不同深度和層次的玫瑰花香,每款香水皆由不同的調香師所調製,各自向為愛的玫瑰致敬。」玫瑰的不同層次在Jo Malone的獨特調配下創造了浪漫主義下的不同感知,甜美、溫暖、現代和性感。

Jo Malone London品牌好友林依晨浪漫演繹玫瑰花語系列

甜溢曖昧

清新的果香調常以帶有振奮精神的柑橘香為基底,包括檸檬、柳橙、葡萄柚及橘子,聞起來充滿活力氣息清澈,令人聯想起炎炎夏日海邊的微風,若是添加蜜桃的甜美,那就變成曖昧迸發的火熱夏日。TOM FORD 「BITTER PEACH蜜桃狂想」以捕捉蜜桃果肉最甜嫩多汁的熟成美好時刻為靈感,散發象徵誘惑與歡愉的蜜桃香氣,更添加了血橙和岩玫瑰,讓岩石泉涌,讓沙漠開花。

TOM FORD私人調香系列 BITTER PEACH 蜜桃狂想 50ML NT$11,800

而另外一種的曖昧,則是初聞此景則心醉了然,每一年一月到四月,自日本國境之南的沖繩開始,到最北端的北海道,日本人都會跟隨櫻花漸次盛開的腳步逐櫻賞花,這個習俗稱為「花見」,即賞花之意,是遍及各年齡層和背景的國民慶典,眾人總邀集親朋好友聚在櫻花樹下,讚嘆那雪白或粉紅的花冠。嬌蘭抓住在月光下欣賞櫻花那春日禮讚特別感人的一刻,轉移至香調當中,品牌調香師以如月光下的櫻花瓣一般純淨的香調重現,溫柔的櫻花、迷濛的紫丁香,以及薄暮時瀰漫在空氣中的茉莉,乘著朦朧的白麝香香跡,一如櫻花乘著微風紛飛,無數的月光花瓣點亮了夜空。

嬌蘭 花綻舞櫻淡香水 高訂精繡蜂印瓶_工藝情境圖

叛逆靈魂

若是一款中性香調可以完美詮釋法式簡約與優雅叛逆,CELINE 高級訂製香水就是箇中翹楚,品牌藝術總監 Hedi Slimane 選擇了精緻而內斂的和弦,是一種輕輕掠過皮膚的嗅覺感,界定出年青少年的優雅、尋找靈魂,以提煉青春的精髓。 而每一款高級訂製香水打破了男女性別隔閡,無性別時尚的香氣與 CELINE 服裝相輔相成,那種隨性不羈,略帶有侵略性的風格,打破所有常規,交出一張讀一而二的試卷,今年高級訂製系列推出全新香氛 – RIMBAUD,首次將溫柔帶進香調中, 凝神的薰衣草加入苦橙、鳶尾草黃油、小麥香、麝香和香草味,希望能夠喚起烏托邦、喚起青春的本質。 Hedi Slimane 靈感來源於一張ARTHUR RIMBAUD的肖像,他在17歲時由攝影師 Étienne Carjat 拍攝,並用來象徵詩歌、青春、叛逆或浪漫主義,而 ARTHUR RIMBAUD 儼然成為一個具代表性的象徵,這也是 Hedi Slimane 對於香調細節當中的人生調味,那種對於生活的渴望、對自然的熱愛和青春的靈魂。

celine高級訂製香水

Love is a Flower 

Fragrances can be divided into different categories according to the main ingredients and components, such as floral, fruity, woody or clean notes. Reminding us of spring courtyards, rose gardens and flower bouquets, the floral note is perfect for the upcoming romantic festivals. A celebration of diptyque’s tenth anniversary, the classic Eau Rose collection is an infusion of the finest damascena and centifolia roses. The French parfumerie Maison adds a new member to the rose family—the Limited Edition Eau Rose. The rose petals are immersed in clear water, along with its green leaves, stem and buds to reveal its rosy delicateness, fruity accents and acidulated green notes. Together, perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin and diptyque’s collaboration pays tribute to the beauty of roses and the timelessness of modern simplicity. 

DIPTYQUE 2022情人節限量系列

Meanwhile, British perfume brand Jo Malone London launches a brand new collection dedicated to roses. Inspired by the queen of flower beds, the series offers scents that range from fresh to seductive. Four different rose fragrances are encapsulated in a specially designed limited edition bottle to pay homage to the iconic flower. “The collection of scents offers a fragrance for everyone, celebrating the many facets of a timeless classic. To really demonstrate its depth of character, each fragrance was created by a different perfumer offering their own unique take on the flower,” says Celine Roux, Global Head of Fragrance. Through Jo Malone’s reinterpretation, the rose becomes sweet, warm, modern, but also sexy. 

Jo Malone London品牌好友林依晨浪漫演繹玫瑰花語系列

Luscious Sweetness 

The fresh, fruity notes are often based on uplifting citrus notes, including lemon, orange, grapefruit and tangerine, and smell vibrant and clear, reminding us of the ocean breeze on a hot summer day. Capturing the slick sweetness of a bitter peach at its luscious peak, the Tom Ford Bitter Peach contains notes of intoxicating pêche de vigne and Sicilian blood orange oil, while a surge of patchouli and sandalwood calls to our deepest desires and inner sensuality. 

TOM FORD私人調香系列 BITTER PEACH 蜜桃狂想

Every year from January to April, Japanese people follow the footsteps of sakura from Okinawa to Hokkaido. This is a national celebration called Hanami, a traditional custom of admiring the transient beauty of flowers. Capturing the particular touching moment in which family and friends are enjoying the cherry blossoms, Guerlain introduces the new Cherry Blossom 2022 Millésime. A celebration of springtime, the Maison’s perfumer recreates the purity of sakura through notes of cherry blossom, lilac, jasmine and white musk. Like cherry blossom petals wavering in the breeze, the fragrance lights up the moonlit sky with elegance and a touch of refreshing nature. 

嬌蘭 花綻舞櫻淡香水 高訂精繡蜂印瓶_工藝情境圖

A Rebellious Soul 

When it comes to capturing the minimal elegance and stylish defiance of the French, no one does it better than Celine’s new Haute Parfumerie collection. Creative director Hedi Slimane chooses an olfactory sensation that defines the elegance of youth. Breaking the conventional gender roles, the collection is comprised of 11 androgynous perfumes that complements Celine’s line of clothing. A brand new addition to the high perfumery, the Rimbaud fragrance is made up of lavender with delicate vanilla and musk notes. The scent is a call to our inner utopia and symbolic of the fragility of being between childhood and adulthood. Inspired by a portrait of Arthur Rimbaud photographed by Étienne Carjat, Silmane wanted to capture the emblem of poetry, youth, defiance and romanticism brought by the French poet. The fragrance is a declaration of our desires in life, our love for nature, and our youthful soul that will live on forever. 

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