未分類

Genderless | 消除性別上的隔閡與限制 終讓精緻的皮囊化作詩意的語言

TEXT by Keira & Coco | TRANSLATION by | Eugenia Yang

消除性別上的隔閡與限制,終讓精緻的皮囊化作詩意的語言,悄然訴說著:美,不僅僅只有一種樣子。
By eliminating gender barriers and limitations,the appearances are transcended into a poetic language quietly stating that beauty is not defined by singularity.

Dior 2022 秋冬男裝系列

躍動靈魂Vibrancy

作為時尚精品龍頭的 Louis Vuitton,於2022年首季再度推出中性系列珠寶 Volt,以全新 Volt Upside Down Play 系列呼應現下 Z 世代求新求變的動感能量,將經典的 LV 標誌解構、結合,打造棱角分明的線條和立體輪廓,形成多款大膽奪目的躍動珠寶。其各色編織手鐲帶出日常的愜意休閒,以別緻設計巧妙凸顯兩個藝術化鎖扣的嶄新連結,藉相互映襯的黃 K 金、白 K 金抑或鑲嵌美鑽的墜飾,將簡潔俐落的字母線條化為愉悅旋律,搭配特有的鎖扣方式一展動人自信與鮮明性格,為現代人渴望追求的靈魂輪廓。

模特兒配戴圖。
Model wearing the Volt Upside Down Play bracelet.

時髦風采Modernity

身為 BVLGARI 經典之一的 Serpenti 珠寶系列,七十年來不斷重生進化,運用華麗設計與前衛工藝持續散發迷人魅力,以最新的超現代幾何蛇鱗鑲嵌璀璨鑽石,蜿蜒蛇身環繞於手腕上的迷人設計,不僅跨越性別上的性感,其豐富靈動之姿更令人難以抵抗。深受年輕世代喜愛的 B.zero1 系列,為近年中性珠寶的一大時髦代表,燃燒對於大膽材質的熱情,注入玫瑰金與黑色陶瓷中,以幾何鉚釘致力打破傳統框架,展現無懼創新的強大精神與獨立態度。

BVLGARI Serpenti Viper情境圖。
BVLGARI Serpenti Viper collection.

卓爾自我Extraordinary

作為伯爵最具指標性的旋轉設計,Possession 系列延續充滿愉悅與趣味的旋轉元素,為佩戴者捎來幸運時刻,也喚醒人們內心最細膩的觸覺感受。全新推出的 Possession 系列前衛結合嶄新材質,將經典融合黑白陶瓷,運用簡約線條勾勒當代摩登美學,優雅格調中不失剛毅特質,鼓舞人們展現卓爾不凡的真實自我。全新 Piaget Polo Skeleton 鏤空腕錶也展現了同樣風采,超薄機械結構和鋪鑲鑽石彰顯高級製錶與珠寶藝術的精湛工藝,不僅象徵著精緻高雅與無拘無束的生活態度,也為勇於探索自我和樂於享受之人獻上最高敬意。

伯爵形象大使陳昊森情人節形象照。
Piaget brand ambassador Edward Chen. 

裝飾男孩Boyhood

於女性意識的時尚認知當中關注到1920年代Coco  Chanel擺脫束腰造型和打破常規提倡褲裝,接連的女性主義與女性意識的抬頭,不只讓女裝迎來了無性別時尚,更是在更迭的時尚循環當中,也同樣找到了男裝新方向,在女裝中尋找男性穿著的靈感,在越來越多元化社會中找尋新領域。男女之間的界限被打破,人們渴望透過穿搭、造型來表達自己的想法與個性,時尚因此產生了無性別差異「Unisex」風格。設計師打破性別刻板印象,Thom Browne 大膽玩味標誌性的百褶男裙, Louis Vuitton、Burberry、CELINE及Rick Owens 和 Raf Simons 等都曾將 feminine menswear 概念帶入其中,甚至這場無性別時尚發酵風暴即將席捲至高級珠寶界。如同時尚寵兒 Harry Styles,他以華麗的珍珠、鑽石搭配蕾絲甚至是荷葉邊襯衫、網襪,大膽詮釋裙裝等等成功駕馭屬於中性調性別的時尚感,跳脫框架的大膽風格創造出衝突的美感,本身陽剛的氣質平衡了優柔華美的服裝。新生代男星 Timothée Chalamet 眉眼中透露著陰柔的氣息,宛如憂鬱冷淡的王子,模糊性別的造型讓熱愛神秘的時尚圈傾倒。

LOEWE 2022秋冬男裝系列。
LOEWE FW22 Men´s Collection.

紳士顛覆Gentleman

Dior 2022 秋冬男裝系列適逢品牌誕生75周年之際,男裝創意總監 Kim Jones 挖掘品牌歷史,在過往中尋找創意靈感,其中更是將迪奧先生經典 Bar Jacket 女裝中的 New Look形象設計輪廓以及女裝常有的禮服披肩融合至男裝中,禮服披肩搭配的方式讓正面的造型顯得蓬鬆,並增加了份量感。風衣大衣中領口的圓弧形也同樣致敬了Dior歷史女裝中的線條,並且在翻轉女裝輪廓與線條的同時,加入了寬鬆街頭感的工作寬褲,以及休閒感受的勃肯鞋來平衡中性時尚。

Dior 2022 秋冬男裝系列。
Dior FW22 Menswear.

另外也將迪奧先生其所鍾愛的元素重新演繹,其中包含了花卉、星星、藤格紋、豹紋與愛犬Bobby等元素。過往出現在女性服裝當中的優美線條,以法式高級訂製服手法裁剪出屬於紳士的全新輪廓,色系以漸層灰和粉彩色淡化男裝陽剛的意象,並運用現代運動與科技面料元素,以出乎意料的方式呈現正式與優雅感,慵懶和非正式的對比。

在無性別時尚當中不只是服裝的展現,其中男裝高級珠寶也是現今的重點趨勢,本季秀上珠寶創意總監Victoire de Castellane再次攜手韓裔珠寶設計師好友 Yoon Ahn 合作,細緻鑲嵌的鑽石及祖母綠的手環出現在細節的搭配上,在服裝與鞋子細節中也能夠感受水晶及各種礦石的點綴,此次品牌運用更高級、華麗的珠寶,強烈宣示屬於男裝的奢華來臨。迪奧先生經典 Bar Jacket 女裝中的 New Look形象設計輪廓以及女裝常有的禮服披肩融合至男裝中,禮服披肩搭配的方式讓正面的造型顯得蓬鬆,並增加了份量感。

調皮軀殼Mischievous

打破性別限制的框架有很多種方式詮釋,獵奇的前衛設計也是其中一種。在看完 LOEWE 2022 秋冬男裝大秀後,怎麼彷彿掉進了荒誕有趣的藝術電影當中,讓人茫茫然感受、虛實感交錯的模糊反應。Loewe 2022 秋冬以「身體」為主軸,可以看到男模特兒穿著剪裁貼身又緊身的極少布料,大面積裸露身形,甚至是裸身肉胎裝、解放乳頭愛心上衣、Flamenco 手袋改造的鞋款單品,完全是一場奇妙的怪誕盛宴。創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 靈感來源於現今凡事皆可能的數位時代,在社群當中,什麼是真什麼是假已經無從得知,完美可以偽裝出來,而瑕疵也可以刪除抹去,這樣的現象也呼應了 Netflix 紀錄片《Tinder 大騙徒》、Netflix《創造安娜》這樣的題材,新型態社會的文化、商業驅動輪轉下,都隱藏著不同的危機與恐懼,科技的進步同時也伴隨著負面聲浪,以一種黑色幽默的看法,傳達設計師想訴說的概念,玩味現今社會下的虛實,究竟是反對的失控還是正向的幽默,我們也無從得知。

LOEWE 2022 秋冬男裝系列。
LOEWE FW22 Menswear.

Vibrancy

One of the most renowned brands in the world, Louis Vuitton presents the LV Volt, a brand new collection of unisex jewelry where the Volt Upside Down Play series perfectly echoes with the Generation Z’s pulsating energy. The iconic LV initials are split apart, combined together and intertwined in a myriad of textures, volumes, finishes and dimensions, offering an array of bold, brilliant jewelry pieces. Offering five different shades, the bracelets come with two graphic clasps that celebrate renewed connections and complement the yellow K gold, white K gold and diamond studded pendants. As the symbolic letters transform into a joyful melody, the sharp lines radiate with absolute confidence and modernity, a symbol of energy and movement that we are all yearning for. 

Modernity

As the ultimate emblem of BVLGARI classic, the Serpenti jewelry collection continues to redefine itself by proving its ability to take infinite forms even after 70 years. In its latest incarnations, the ultra-modern geometric scales are adorned with dazzling diamonds, a demonstration of its enchanting design and impeccable craftsmanship. Wrapping the wrist with their sinuous coils, the Serpenti bracelets not only overcome the gender barriers, but also become an irresistible force of charm. Meanwhile, a collection beloved by the younger generation, B.zero 1 is considered as one of the chicest unisex jewelry series. Choosing classically unconventional materials, the creations are finished with precious pavé diamonds, cutting-edge black ceramic inserts and irreverent gold studs, a dedication to those who welcome innovation and new inspirations. 

Extraordinary

With Piaget’s signature turning cylinder design, the Possession collection celebrates elegance that is playful and free. Like a lucky charm, it reminds us of our most fortunate moments and our deepest, most intimate emotions. The brand new Possession series combines innovative materials like black and white ceramics with classic, minimalist designs to highlight the beauty of modernity. Elegant without losing boldness, these creations encourage their wearer to show their most extraordinary self. In a similar sense, the Piaget Polo Skeleton watch perfectly showcases its upscale craftsmanship with the ultra-thin case and pavé diamond. The novelty timepiece not only symbolizes a refined, free-spirited lifestyle, but also pays tribute to those who dare to explore and enjoy life with absolute confidence. 

Boyhood

During the 1920s, Coco Chanel boldly changed the course of women’s fashion. Instead of creating garments with corsets, she chose looser-flowing silhouettes and opted for uniforms and suits for women to wear. Her forefront decisions not only gave rise to feminism, but also paved the way for genderless fashion. Nowadays, womenswear also looks towards men’s fashion for inspiration, creating a brand new realm of creativity in our diverse society. With gender norms eliminated, people are more prone to express their true selves through different looks and attires—the “Unisex” trend is thus born—while creative directors are continuing to challenge the boundaries of gender conventions. As Thom Browne incorporates the iconic pleated skirt into its menswear designs, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, CELINE, Rick Owens and Raf Simmons are also playing around with the idea of feminine menswear and even combining it with High Jewelry. Look at the industry’s favorite, Harry Styles, who has successfully harnessed the genderless fashion with the use of pearls, diamonds, lace and even ruffled blouses and fishnet. His bold style breaks the gender barrier and creates a conflicting but beautiful aesthetic that perfectly balances femininity and masculinity. Meanwhile, with his eyes beaming with a soft, melancholic look, Timothée Chalamet also goes for genderless clothes and designs, making him one of the most popular fashion icon of the industry. 

Gentleman

Arriving at Dior’s 75th anniversary, creative director Kim Jones decides to dive deep into the brand archive for his AW22 menswear collection. Among some of the couturier’s most characteristic designs, we see the classic Bar Jacket and dressy shawls incorporated into the contemporary men’s wardrobe. The addition of the shawl successfully adds volume to the garments, creating a sturdier, more voluminous look.  Paying tribute to Dior’s archival womenswear, Jones also included elements from sportswear like street-styled work pants, tailored track pants and casual Birkenstocks to create the unisex fashion. Meanwhile, the collection is also rife with Monsieur Dior’s favorites—flowers, stars, cannage quilting, leopard prints and even his beloved dog, Bobby. Elegant lines found in womenswear are reimagined with French Haute Couture craftsmanship to create a new gentleman silhouette. While the colors like gradient gray and pastel pink weaken the feeling of masculinity, the combination of modern sportswear and technological elements highlights a clash of formality and casual elegance. Of course, genderless is not just for men’s fashion but also men’s fine jewelry. For this AW22 show, Dior’s fine jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane once again collaborated with Korean jewelry designer Yoon Ahn to introduce creations like diamond and emerald-studded bracelets, jewel-encrusted derby shoes and ropes of freshwater gray pearls—a bold declaration of the arrival of elegant, luxurious Dior menswear. 

Mischievous

When it comes to breaking gender barriers, there are many ways of expression, with forefront, unconventional designs being one of them. After watching the Loewe AW22 menswear show, it felt like we had just walked through an absurd, fantastical art film, where it was hard to tell what’s real and what’s not. Centered around the body, the collection features pieces framed by plenty of flesh—skin colored full body suits, a sweater with a heart-shaped cut-out at one nipple, and even Flamenco bags as footwear. Creative director Jonathan Anderson’s inspiration stemmed from the digital world, a place where anything is possible and perfection is something that can be fabricated. Questioning the very essence of reality, Anderson’s show also echoes with recent films like Netflix’s Tinder Swindler and Inventing Anna. In this new state of society where everything is commercialized, different forms of fear and danger are rising, as the downsides of technological advances are surfacing. In a satirical way, Anderson’s take on digital fashion serves as a wake-up call. As for whether the digital world holds a positive or negative influence on our reality, the answer lies within our heart. Ultimately, the idea of perfection is really what we make of it.

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