LUXURY

鑑古知今:輝煌珠寶史 | A History of Brilliance

TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

歷史總有種讓人著迷的魔力,可供今人理解過往,作為未來行事的參考依據,其中所蘊含的故事點滴與文化情懷,為枯燥無味的汗青史冊增添了生動意趣,亦如擁有悠久歷史的珠寶史,精雕細琢、繁複華麗流轉間,交融文學、哲學、藝術、音樂等知識繆思,汲取人類精神文明的纍纍果實,於今日綻放愈加耀眼的異彩光芒。

Tiffany以重逾80克拉帝國鑽石重現1939年世界博覽會展出的高級珠寶項鍊。

古羅馬再現

注入古羅馬爛漫靈魂,向來是寶格麗擅長之事。承襲兩千五百年的羅馬輝煌歷史,Magnifica 頂級珠寶系列將百年來所積累的獨到美學與精湛工藝,打造臻於化境的壯麗之作。擁有全世界市場最大切割尖晶石的 Imperial Spinel 頂級尖晶石、祖母綠與鑽石項鍊,以碩大寶石、無可忽視的份量感、奔騰奪目的配色完美體現寶格麗的大膽創作因子,採用枕形切割,烘托熱情粉紅與細緻翠綠的澄淨底蘊,搭配27顆祖母綠圓珠與各式切割鑽石,將領帶意象巧妙注入項鍊中,鮮明對比下,也彷若走入古羅馬花園,一窺跨越歷史恆河的盛綻光影。

詮釋鑲嵌西元69年羅馬帝國著名的明君維斯帕先君王的古羅馬青銅幣 Monete 項鍊,見證了維斯帕先皇帝積極與羅馬元老院合作,展現治理長才並重建帝國秩序的明理,兩千年的汗青過往盡濃縮於一枚古幣,象徵永恆的君王精神,將悠遠的沈穩魅力表露無遺。

義大利超模Vittoria Ceretti配戴BVLGARI MAGNIFICA系列IMPERIAL SPINEL頂級尖晶石與祖母綠項鍊,展現璀璨華美氣質。

巴洛克啟蒙

縱使光陰流逝,大自然總為人們帶來不少靈感筆記。亦如 Serpenti Barocko 頂級彩寶神秘腕錶,融入以羅馬為首的巴洛克風格,將花園階梯的螺旋設計飾以眾多瑰麗彩寶,奼紫嫣紅於手腕綻放,浪漫凝聚羅馬文化與巴洛克美學的精湛工藝。Baroque Spiral 腕錶則以藝術為本,頌揚巴洛克藝術之下,強調運動無畏、裝飾浮誇與極致的感官體驗,象徵生命和進化的螺旋幾何圖案十足展現了華麗與內斂的平衡狀態,蜿蜒的巴洛克圖騰與493顆鑽石、9顆祖母綠、10顆紅寶石和8顆藍寶石,煥發無與倫比的和諧及優雅高貴。《天鵝湖》樂曲,於耳畔悠然響起。彷若兩隻天鵝輕柔地俯身在羽翼之下,為Diamond Swan 頂級鑽石項鍊所營造的巧思,靈感取自裝飾藝術時期波蘭畫家 Tamara de Lempicka,交錯鑲嵌珍珠母貝與鑽石,耗費2000小時的細緻絞接工法,方能體現羽毛的溫婉輕盈。以蛋面祖母綠為主角,Hypnotic Emerald 頂級祖母綠與鑽石項鍊生動地展現靈蛇守護重達 93.83 克拉哥倫比亞蛋形祖母綠的繾綣身影,不僅象徵著永恆的女性魅力,藉靈蛇唯妙唯肖的矯捷姿態,盡顯寶格麗的精湛珠寶工藝,也為自古流傳的魅惑能量展現無盡生命力。

非裔名模Blesnya Minher演繹BVLGARI MAGNIFICA系列DIAMOND SWA頂級鑽石項鍊,展現璀璨華美氣質。
BVLGARI MAGNIFICA系列 BAROQUE SPIRAL頂級神秘珠寶腕錶 。

大自然永存

「我觀察大自然,從中找到活力。」傳奇藝術大師 Jean Schlumberger 藉由作品體現了他深具想像力的才華洋溢,遊走天馬行空與原創精緻間,各色寶石彷彿被賦予了無限生機,如藏匿花園中的翩翩彩蝶、隨風飄逸的爛漫雛菊、春雨過後的晶透露珠,皆化為一幅幅絢麗多姿的自然畫卷,吸吐之間,經甘霖灌溉後的土壤氣息撲鼻而來,以讓人意想不到的奪目華彩,賦予別樣夢幻光影。其代表作石上鳥胸針,透過各色彩寶手工鑲嵌,為小巧可人的鳳頭鸚鵡打造專屬休憩站,不禁使人遐想鳥兒停駐時的喜悅之情,啁啾之間,大自然的風情永存,亦呼應 Jean Schlumberger 的創作精神不曾因韶光流逝,而是順應時光洪流,成為珠寶史上不可抹滅的靈動非凡。

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger石上鳥設計鉑金與 18K 金鑲嵌主石逾54.07克拉紫水晶與鑽石胸針。

裝飾風重塑

靈感來自1939年世界博覽會首次面世的 Tiffany & Co. 頸鏈,重塑美得讓人屏息的高級珠寶珍品。熠熠生輝的非凡「帝國鑽石」(The Empire Diamond),以品牌誕生地紐約市命名,體現不忘本的純粹光芒,也向世人展現裝飾藝術風格下,注入現代精神的創新時刻。重逾80克拉、成色等級D、內部無瑕的橢圓形主鑽,以負責任方式採購自非洲,僅次於非賣品鎮店之寶傳奇黃鑽(Tiffany Diamond),為 Tiffany 有史以來最大的鑽石。耗費兩年多的光陰,方能成就一條如此璀璨奪目之作,總重逾 100 克拉的鑽石:353 顆圓形明亮式鑽石與 224 顆訂製切割矩形鑽石,悉心雕琢重塑既可作項鍊,亦可轉換成一只鉑金鑲嵌的鑽石戒指,充滿玩味的巧思令人嘆為觀止。

Tiffany 以重逾80克拉帝國鑽石重現1939年世界博覽會展出的高級珠寶項鍊。
Tiffany 2022自然綺想高級珠寶展空景照。 

History always radiates with a fascinating charm. It allows us to understand our past and serves as a reference for future actions. The stories and cultural sentiments encapsulated in history add a sense of fun and energy to the hard reality. Just like the long-running history of jewelry, it combines literature, philosophy, art, music and other kinds of knowledge through the process of craft and design. As they continue to draw from the fruits of human civilization, the jewels gleam with a brighter, more brilliant shine as time goes on.

Revisiting Ancient Rome 

Drawing inspiration from the romantic spirit of Ancient Rome has always been what Bvlgari is best at. Embodying over 2,500 years of history, the Magnifica High Jewelry collection is a testament to the Maison’s distinctive style and impeccable craftsmanship. With one of the largest known spinels in the world as its centerpiece, the Imperial Spinel necklace is also set with diamonds and emeralds. Its sinuous volume, vibrant colors and delicate shapes perfectly demonstrate Bvlgari’s bold commitment towards uniqueness. Through its cushion cut design, the extraordinary gem is surrounded by a cascade of diamonds and 27 emerald beads, while the hot pink tones echo with the purity of green. Infused with imagery, the masterpiece takes us back to the gardens of Ancient Rome for a glance of the brilliant colors of history. 

Capturing the eternal spirit of the famous Roman emperor Vespasian, the Monete necklace is a testament of Vespasian’s fiscal reform and consolidation of the empire through his peacemaking with the Roman Senate. Consolidating two thousand years of history into one singular ancient coin, the necklace becomes a symbol of Rome’s imperial glory and a perfect display of the Maison’s timeless sophistication.

2義大利超模Vittoria Ceretti配戴BVLGARI MAGNIFICA系列IMPERIAL SPINEL頂級尖晶石與祖母綠項鍊,展現璀璨華美氣質。

Baroque Inspiration 

Through the passing of time, Mother Nature has never failed to provide us with inspiration. Embracing the magnificence of the Baroque era, the Serpenti Barocko Secret watch displays the extraordinary gemstones with a spiraling design that resembles garden stairs. As the creative audacity and sensuality bloom on the wrist, Bvlgari’s mastria in jewelry craftsmanship is fully expressed. Meanwhile, the Baroque Spiral Secret watch also celebrates the beauty of Baroque art. Emphasizing boldness, flamboyance and a heightened sensual experience, the timepiece is covered with spiral geometry, which symbolizes the equilibrium of life and evolution. Set with 493 diamonds, 9 emeralds, 10 rubies and 8 sapphires, the diamond curls are harmoniously intertwined with each other, a perfect testament of balance and absolute sophistication. 

As Swan Lake begins to play, the image behind the Diamond Swan necklace unravels in front of our eyes: two graceful, snow-white swans are about to take off. Inspired by Polish Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka, the piece is adorned with diamonds and mother-of-pearls resembling the lightness of feathers, which took over 2,000 hours of delicate stranding craftsmanship. Gracefully capturing the agility of the serpent, the Hypnotic Emerald necklace comes with an exceptional 93.83 carat cabochon-cut Colombian emerald as its centerpiece. Not only an eternal symbol of feminine seduction, but the masterpiece is also an emblem of Bvlgari’s brilliant, exceptional craftsmanship, flawlessly demonstrating Mother Nature’s timeless energy. 

BVLGARI MAGNIFICA系列 BAROQUE SPIRAL頂級神秘珠寶腕錶。

Eternal Nature 

“I observe nature and find verve.” Through his works, the legendary designer Jean Schlumberger showcased his amazing talent that had no boundaries. Wandering between the imaginative and the original, the gemstones are given infinite vitality. From the fluttering butterflies hiding in the gardens, the rosy daisies wavering in the wind, to the translucent dew glistening after the rain, everything is transformed into a colorful natural painting. Through each breath, it is as if we can smell the rich aroma of wet soil, while the gems perfectly capture nature’s surprising shine. One of Schlumberger’s best-known designs, the Bird on a Rock brooch recreates the adorable scene of a bird perching through the use of different colored gemstones. As if preserving nature’s beauty indefinitely, the brooch echoes with Schlumberger’s undying creative spirit that has already become a timeless classic in the history of jewelry. 

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 雛菊設計鉑金與 18K 金鑲嵌錳鋁榴石、黃水晶、帝王托帕石、橄欖石、紅碧璽與鑽石項鍊。

Art Deco is Back 

Drawing inspiration from its 1939 World’s Fair necklace, Tiffany & Co. finally reveals the exceptionally rare and absolutely brilliant Empire Diamond. Named in honor of New York City, the gemstone gleams with a pure shine and perfectly showcases its Art Deco style that comes with a twist of modern ingenuity. An over 80-carat, D-color, internally flawless type IIa oval diamond, the Empire Diamond was responsibly sourced in Botswana with a value that is only eclipsed by the House’s most famous yellow Tiffany Diamond that is not for sale. The recreation took Tiffany’s artisans over two years to finally complete such an opulent masterpiece. Featuring 353 round brilliant diamonds and 224 custom-cut baguette diamonds, the Empire Diamond can be worn not only as a necklace, but also as a diamond-encrusted ring in a platinum setting, making it unique, cleverly transformable and full of fun. 

Tiffany 於1939年世界博覽會展出鑲嵌海藍寶石和美鑽的高級珠寶項鍊。
Tiffany 於1939年世界博覽會展出鑲嵌海藍寶石和美鑽的高級珠寶項鍊設計草圖。

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