FASHION

悠遊國度 | Leisure Nation

TRANSLATION | Neda

隨著全球疫情政策的放鬆,許多國家已選擇共存走出新冠肺炎疫情,回歸正常生活,而時裝週也由數位轉回實體辦秀,在2022年更是暢行無阻,悠遊世界的每一個角落。Dior 在韓國首爾的梨花女子大學舉辦2022秋季時裝系列大秀,這是 Dior 有史以來第一次於南韓辦秀 ; Dior男裝創意總監Kim Jones則是選址於美國洛杉磯發佈最新 2023 春季系列 ; 早春系列總是選址於世界各地的 Chanel 在摩納哥發佈 2023 早春度假系列,也將於 6月7日重溫 21/22 Métiers d’art 工坊系列,並將此發表選至義大利文藝復興之鄉佛羅倫斯舉辦。

With the lift of global pandemic policies, many countries are already coexisting with the virus and returning to the normal life. The fashion week also shifts to physical runway shows from the digital. In 2022, it has become more borderless worldwide and the far-flung fashion shows are eventually back. Dior unveiled the 2022 Fall ready-to-wear collection at Ewha Womans University in Seoul, which was the fashion house’s first time to hold a runway show in South Korea. As for Dior Men, the Artistic Director Kim Jones brought its 2023 Spring Collection show to Los Angeles, U.S.A.. With this comeback of destination shows, Chanel also headed to Monaco for its Cruise 2023 show and will relaunch the 21/22 Métiers d’art collection on the 7th of June in Florence, the city of Renaissance. 

而 LV 2023 早春大秀跨洋到美國加州的索爾克研究院(Salk Institute)舉行,步上索爾克研究院的中央大道。GUCCI 繼去年11月於好萊塢星光大道封街舉辦 Love Parade 大秀後,於近期選址於意大利普利亞 (Apulia) 的Castel Del Monte 蒙特城堡發表 2023 年全新男女裝時裝系列。同屬開雲集團的 Balenciaga 在美國紐約發佈2023年春季系列,是睽違兩年多來首次於除了線下以及巴黎以外的地方發表新系列。

《當代建築第三人稱》一書中曾說到:「當代建築容易欣賞,卻不易理解,在去除掉一切裝飾後,建築,更像是一門抽象藝術。」在 Louis Vuitton 2023早春開秀時夕陽餘暉落在美國加州的索爾克研究院(Salk Institute)中央大道,太陽至中軸線上分隔映射而入,Louis Vuitton 完整地將當代建築與抽象藝術之理解:一種不描述自然世界的藝術,反透過形狀和顏色以主觀方式來表達。

Louis Vuitton 女裝創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 擅長以當代建築作為創作靈感與秀場選地,並將空間軸線與過去、現在、未來時間軸交織、以古典涵義滿載未來主義,將兩種衝突美學結合,創造出Nicolas Ghesquière獨一無二的多重宇宙。Salk Institute這座由建築師 Louis Kahn 設計的粗野主義作品結合LV服裝中金屬未來感與復古宮廷輪廓,看似中世紀感的裙擺,卻藏著不同材質與顏色拼接未來風格的元素與特色,以建築「對稱美學」激盪出現代感服裝形式,海平面、折射光影、天空與建築本身都成為靈感來源。他打造出來的LV女裝形象是堅毅、未來主義感的女戰士,宛如《沙丘》科幻小說中神秘多元的遊牧文明,用古典美學向未來史學緻意。

Nicolas自擔任Louis Vuitton 女裝創意總監後,時常以穿梭時光為主軸,早春系列更是悠遊藝術人間,選址地點遍佈全球,如摩納哥王宮廣場、由現代主義大師 John Lautner 於加州棕櫚泉打造的私人宅邸(The Bob and Dolores Hope Estate)、 巴西的尼泰羅依當代藝術博物館、由建築大師貝聿銘建造的京都美秀美術館、知名芬蘭裔美國建築師 Eero Saarinen 設計的紐約甘迺迪機場第五航站,以及去年於巴黎近郊走秀的大型藝術傑作 Axe Majeur , 創意總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 正在改寫 Louis Vuitton 女裝的歷史,其中也不段強調著LV百年來文化血液中的旅行主題,承襲著品牌文化底蘊行李箱發跡主旨,乘載著每個旅人們的精神,關乎對未來的渴望。

GUCCI 創意總監 Alessandro Michele 。( B ) Creative director of Gucci — Alessandro Michele.

Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton showcased their 2023 Cruise Collection in California, the runway was walked out in the plaza at Salk Institute. And after Gucci’s Love Parade show took place along the Hollywood Walk of Fame in November last year, the fashion house this year launched the 2023 Resort collection at Castel Del Monte in Puglia, Italy. Also from the French luxury group Kering, Balenciaga is bringing the next Spring 2023 Collection to New York City, which is the first time in two years for Balenciaga to stage a runway show ditching Paris. 

It’s said in the book—Contemporary Architecture The Third that “It is easy to appreciate contemporary architecture, but difficult to comprehend it. After eliminating all the decorations, architecture is more like an abstract art.” When the Louis Vuitton 2023 Cruise show began, the afterglow of sunset lingered on the courtyard of Salk Institute, beamed and reflected on an axis. Louis Vuitton has entirely expressed the comprehension of contemporary architecture plus abstract art by a subjective way of shapes and colors instead of the indescribability of nature.

2023年 GUCCI 全新男女裝時裝系列取名為 《Cosmogonie 》。GUCCI Cosmogonie 2023 collection.

Nicolas Ghesquière, the creative director for Louis Vuitton’s women collections, is highly inspired by contemporary architecture. He not only applies the inspiration on his design but also on selecting venues. Wittily interweaves the space with the past, present and future, has the classics to be tinged with futurism, building up the unique cosmo of Nicolas Ghesquière himself. The brutalist Salk Institute designed by architect Louis Kahn, was combined with the metallic and futuristic pieces of Louis Vuitton collection this time, along the outline of palaces and seemingly medieval hemlines with hidden mixture of different colors and textiles. The aesthetics of symmetry seen on the architecture inspired the clothing with elements like horizon, reflection of beam and skyline. The image of womenswear Nicholas has built is armour-like and futuristic which is alike to the mysterious nomad from science fiction “Dune”. Traveling through time has often been used as the major theme since Nicholas was appointed as creative director, he tends to bring the destination shows to various locations worldwide, such as Royal Palace in Monaco, the Bob and Dolores Hope Estate designed by modernist John Lautner in Palm Springs, California, Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Brazil, Miho Museum in Kyoto built by I.M. Pei, former terminal TWA Flight Center designed by architect Eero Saarinen in New York, as well as showcasing around the large-scale masterpiece Axe Majeur in the suburb of Paris last year. Nicolas Ghesquière is rewriting the history of Louis Vuitton womenswear, while ceaselessly emphasizing traveling as the theme of Louis Vuitton for the past century, carries out the spirit of each globetrotter and the desire towards future. 

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