FASHION

聯名大時代崛起!adidas x Gucci碰撞火花、Jacquemus x Nike超極簡美學 聚焦所有人的目光!

TRANSLATION | Neda

近期層出不窮的聯名系列,包含了精品時尚品牌與潮流品牌的聯名、百年時裝屋與新創品牌的聯名,甚至是百年一遇才有的奢侈品牌與奢侈品牌之間的結合創作,這是一個聯名的大時代,每個品牌為了提升社交媒體的關注度以及吸睛度,結合兩種風格迥異的文化風格,試圖將所有人的目光聚焦。

Recently, the co-branding trend has emerged in an endless stream, including the fashion brands and trendy brands, even the century-old fashion houses  which is rarely seen. This is the era of co-branding, every brand tries to catch people’s attention by combining two different cultural styles in order to increase the attention on social media.

adidas x Gucci聯名系列。adidas x Gucci collection.

Gucci創意總監Alessandro Michele如萬花筒般千變萬化的審美觀,繼去年與Balenciaga推出 The Hacker project 合作系列後,今年於《Exquisite Gucci》秀場再次推出聯名系列,將Gucci品牌風格融入adidas運動風格,剪裁精美的街頭服飾與運動風格單品被華麗繁複的Gucci風格包覆,多彩綺麗的美學風格相互映襯,擦撞出高級時裝融合街頭服飾的無限火花。有趣的是,這兩個品牌共同有個相似的文化資產「三條紋」,天真以為一種可能性是跨越底線矛盾打官司,否則保持著平行線,井水不犯河水之道理,但 adidas x Gucci 卻帶著玩味和諷刺意味將最珍貴的品牌符號拿出來共享資源,滲透進雙方的設計初衷,以詼諧方式體現創意,因此可以看到右手袖來自愛迪達的三條紋,與左手袖來自Gucci的紅綠色三線條。

Gucci與adidas合作系列發佈後,Balenciaga在美國紐交所交易大廳舉辦最新2023早春大秀,同樣發佈了與adidas的聯名合作,服裝設計包含了以adidas字體呈現的Balenciaga標識,或是有著Balenciaga字樣呈現adidas的三葉草圖騰設計。相較起adidas x Gucci,創意總監Demna執掌的Balenciaga風格識別沒有Gucci與adidas來的衝突,反倒貫徹 Balenciaga 服裝語序的繭型廓形、寬大且鬆垮的剪裁,提倡著大眾都能夠體驗時尚的權利,以豐厚的品牌底蘊玩味無厘頭的時尚風格,意外地與運動品牌adidas相當搭配。

聯名的作用不僅僅體現於設計創意同時也是商業價值的來源,透過雙方的創意激盪製造出反差與衝突感受,帶來驚喜與珍貴的獨特性,更是提升品牌話題度與扭轉品牌形象調性,如同Louis Vuitton X Nike聯名球鞋的綁定、MONCLER 與藤原浩合作系列、FENDI x SKIMS限時聯名系列等等,達到精品時尚品牌與潮流品牌的互相碰撞,與有購買力的客群對調產生連結,希望能夠打入年輕化的Z世代市場。

說到底曝光量與話題度正是一直不斷推出聯名系列的主要首因,Jacquemus推出「Le Papier」系列與Nike驚喜聯名為一個相當鮮明且成功的實例。Jacquemus品牌主理人Simon Porte Jacquemus在社交媒體中的個人影響力奠定了他為新世代設計師的代表,也可以說是以社群平台打造出品牌王國的概念。Jacquemus不斷傳達詩意的南法風情,創造出一個又一個火紅的「爆款」,例如始祖迷你包、超巨大草帽、大型流蘇草編包等等,不僅是「爆款」製造機,且善於以親民的限時姿態於城市的角落寫下經典,例如於巴黎開設的24小時粉紅色快閃店、米蘭時裝週的白色快閃店以及在巴黎開設快閃花店等等,一推出立刻在社交平台中發酵。

此次「Le Papier」系列於Jacquemus Instagram發佈一張俯瞰灰色網球場圖片與一系列氛圍靈感圖片開始,透過Simon Porte Jacquemus的氛圍美學與極簡風格首次跨界運動領域。他提及此次的設計目的是希望在女性運動服中注入感性的細節與中性色彩,且透露 Nike Air Humara 為他最愛的鞋款。合作系列不僅縮小了 Nike Logo,改以迷你細節詮釋,並加入大面積的留白,以法式的優雅極簡與運動專業形成了反差,抓住了吸睛元素與轟動關鍵。如今運動品牌已不再單一以「運動表現」作為服飾配飾的唯一設計要求,而精品時尚品牌也不再單一追求奢侈為由,於社交媒體新時代中,相互融合,雙贏成就。

Jacquemus與Nike推出「Le Papier」聯名合作系列。(圖片來源Jacquemus Instagram)
The launch of the “Le Papier” between Jacquemus and Nike on June 28.

Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, has an ever-changing aesthetics like a kaleidoscope. Following the launch of The Hacker project with Balenciaga last year, he debuted the adidas x Gucci series on the “Exquisite Gucci” show, integrating Gucci’s brand style into adidas’ sports style, tailoring exquisite streetwear and sports-inspired pieces are wrapped in a gorgeous and complex Gucci style, and the colorful and beautiful aesthetics complement each other, colliding with the infinite spark of high fashion and streetwear.

Interestingly, these two brands share a similar cultural asset “three stripes”. People naively thought that one possibility is fighting a lawsuit or the parallel lines will be maintained. But adidas x Gucci cooperates with much playfulness and irony, the most precious brand symbols are taken out to share resources, combine the original design intentions of both parties, and express creativity in a humorous way. The three stripes from adidas on the right sleeve can be seen on the cooperative clothing when the left sleeve comes from the red and green three lines of Gucci.

After the release of the cooperation between Gucci and adidas, Balenciaga held the latest 2023 early spring show on the trading hall of the New York Stock Exchange in the United States. It also released a crossover with adidas. The clothing design includes the Balenciaga logo printed in adidas font, or with the word Balenciaga in adidas’ logo. Compared with adidas x Gucci, the creative director Demna does not have the conflict between Gucci and adidas. Instead, it implements the cocoon-shaped silhouette and loose tailoring of Balenciaga, advocating that the public can experience right of fashion, playing with nonsensical styles with a richness of the heritage of brand, which unexpectedly matches the sports brand Adidas.

The benefit of co-branding is not only reflected in the creativity of design but also the source of commercial value. Through the creation of both parties, it creates contrast and conflict, bringing surprises and precious uniqueness. It also make the brand go viral and reverses the brands’ images. Like the Louis Vuitton X Nike sneakers, the cooperation between MONCLER and Hiroshi Fujiwara, and the FENDI x SKIMS limited edition, etc. To achieve the collision between fashion houses and trendy brands, and connect with the purchasing power of consumers, also enter the younger Gen Z market.

After all, exposure and topicality are the main reasons for the continuous launch of co-branding. The launch of the “Le Papier” between Jacquemus and Nike on June 28 is a very clear and successful example. Simon Porte, the brand manager of Jacquemus, says its personal influence in social media has established him as a representative of the new generation of designers, and it can also be said that the concept of creating a brand kingdom through social platforms. Jacquemus continues to convey the southern French style, creating one after another fiery “popular style”, such as the mini bag, super huge straw hat, large tassel straw bag, etc., not only being the trendsetter, but also good at being close to the people in limited time of the brand that writes a history of new classics in the corners of the city, such as the 24-hour pink pop-up store opened in Paris, the white pop-up store in Milan Fashion Week, and the pop-up flower shop in Paris, which all fermented once it was published. The “Le Papier” series started with a picture of gray tennis court and a series of inspirational pictures on Jacquemus’ Instagram, which crossed the field of sports for the first time through Simon Portes atmospheric aesthetics and minimalist style. He mentioned that the purpose of this design is to inject sensual details and neutral colors into women’s sportswear, and revealed that Nike Air Humara is his favorite shoe. The cooperation series not only make the Nike Logo smaller, but also interprets it with mini details, and adds a large area of ​​blank space, forming a contrast between the French elegant minimalism and the sports profession, capturing the key to attracting attention and sensation. Nowadays, sports brands no longer rely solely on the performance of sport as the only requirement for designing clothing and accessories, and boutique fashion brands no longer solely pursue luxury. In the new era of social media, they integrate with each other and achieve win-win results.

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