感性篇章,極致手工藝|Extreme Craftsmanship, A Sensual Chapter

TRANSLATION | Neda

當進入DIOR的藝術殿堂,先是由烏克蘭藝術家 Olesia Trofymenko與印度孟買的 Chanakya 工坊打造的生命之樹場景,以68套極致刺繡工藝高級訂製服揭開序幕;不同以往的FENDI用留白襯托那些溫柔氣息,卸下多餘設計,保有從容與浪漫。

When entering the art palace of DIOR, firstly see the tree of life created by the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko and the Chanakya workshop in Mumbai,  open with 68 sets of haute coutures with the ultimate embroidery craftsmanship. Different from the past, FENDI left blanks to set off those gentle breaths, removed redundant designs to keep the caltm and romance.

FENDI 2022秋冬高訂,結合擁有百年歷史的「友禪染」技術和代表日本文化的楓葉、花草刺繡及圖騰點綴在水晶製成的硬挺洋裝和鏤空禮服之上。
FENDI 2022FW haute couture combined with the century-old “kata-yuzen” technique and the maple leaves, flower and grass embroidery and totems that represent Japanese culture, embellished on the stiff dress made by crystal and hollow dress.

高級訂製上的繁花盛開|DIOR 2022秋冬高訂

帶著華美和優雅邀請我們進入DIOR的藝術殿堂,記憶和文化緩緩勾勒出象徵自然的生命之樹,而這季「刺繡」成為了DIOR的核心,一針一線縫製著濃厚的情感,讚詠著生命和傳統手工藝,像是在續寫上一季春夏高訂的感性篇章。一切源自於創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri 第一眼看見烏克蘭藝術家Olesia Trofymenko以生命之樹為核心的畫作的時刻,從全然不同的文化語境裡獲得共鳴,然而不論是藝術、時尚又或者世界,成就如今的一切何嘗不是如此?

Blooming|DIOR 22FW Haute Couture

Inviting us into the art palace of DIOR with beauty and elegance, memory and culture slowly outline the tree of life that symbolizes nature. Embroidery has become the core of DIOR this season, every stitch is attached with strong emotions, praising life and traditional handicrafts, it seems to be continuing the emotional chapter of the haute couture from previous season. It all stems from the moment when creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri first saw the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko’s painting with the tree of life, resonating from a completely different culture, but whether it is art, fashion or the world, aren’t they just like the way the are which have achieved this moment?

DIOR 2022秋冬高級訂製系列。
DIOR 2022FW haute couture collection.

豐沛的棉線、絲線與紗線,交織而成精緻的刺繡蕾絲在棉織物、羊毛縐綢、絲綢、以及喀什米爾羊絨上肆意綻放,大衣、黑色縐紗連身長裙或全幅鑲花邊棉質半截裙都飾有植物圖樣。

配飾部分仍圍繞著華美的刺繡點綴造型,以阿拉伯式花飾演繹生命之樹圖樣。鞋履以蕾絲或通花穗帶裝飾綁帶靴子的孔眼下沿,平底芭蕾舞鞋的鞋跟和飾品們綴以珍珠圓珠,在典雅氛圍中凸顯細緻差異,向女性、生命與世界致上最浪漫的敬意。

Rich cotton, silk and yarn, interwoven into delicate embroidered lace on cotton, wool, silk, and cashmere, in coats, black dresses or full-length half cotton half lace skirts are all decorated with botanical patterns.

The accessories still revolve around the gorgeous embroidery, with arabesque ornaments to interpret the tree of life. The shoes are decorated with lace or tassels on the bottom edge of the eyelets of the boots, and the heels and flat ballet shoes are decorated with pearl beads, highlighting the subtle differences in an elegant atmosphere, paying the most romantic tribute to women, life and the world. 

刺繡圖案珍珠耳環,與身上刺繡連身裙互相呼應。
Embroidered pearl earrings complement the embroidered dress.
刺繡工藝延伸到手上的時髦配件,以珠飾串連而成的刺繡戒指。
Embroidery extends to trendy accessories, with embroidered rings strung with beads.
鞋履以蕾絲或通花穗帶裝飾綁帶靴子的孔眼下沿。
Shoes with lace or tassels trim the lower edge of eyelet of boots.

賦予柔和簡約的輕盈姿態|Fendi 2022秋冬高訂

繼FENDI春夏高訂所帶來的奇幻視覺衝擊,這回秋冬高訂系列Kim Jones選擇讓大秀場景留白,並不做任何的裝飾,猶如一張不斷刮乾淨重寫的羊皮紙,卸下多餘誇張的設計,變得更加平易近人貼近生活,身穿高訂不再是遙不可及或象徵身份的束縛,反而賦予柔和簡約的輕盈姿態。而Kim Jones對日本文化的喜愛這次也應用在系列上,選擇以京都為起點,結合擁有百年歷史的「友禪染」技術和代表日本文化的楓葉、花草刺繡及圖騰點綴在水晶製成的硬挺洋裝和鏤空禮服之上,並將視覺感衝向巔峰。

Minimalism and Lightness|FENDI 22FW Haute Couture

Following the fantastic visual impact brought by FENDI SS haute couture collection, Kim Jones chose to leave the runway scene blank this time, without any decoration, just like a piece of parchment that is constantly scraped and rewritten, removed the superfluous and exaggerated design which has become more approachable and close to life. Wearing haute couture is no longer out of reach or a symbol of identity, but gives a soft and simple lightness. And Kim Jones’ love for Japanese culture is also applied to the collection this time. Started from Kyoto, combining the century-old “kata-yuzen” technique and the maple leaves, flower and grass embroidery and totems that represent Japanese culture, embellished on the stiff dress made by crystal and hollow dress.

由 FENDI 珠寶藝術總監 Delfina Delettrez Fendi設計的FENDI Flavus 高級珠寶也在系列中首次亮相。
FENDI Flavus High Jewellery, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, also makes its debut in the collection.
FENDI 2022秋冬高級訂製系列。
FENDI 2022FW haute couture collection. 

大地色系結合傳統男裝剪裁的西裝還有義式裁縫製成的小羊駝、皮革和皮草裝束,看似簡單的廓型與剪裁卻蘊含著 Fendi 精湛的工藝,衍生出一套套的實搭服裝。Kim Jones也透過薄荷綠、藕粉與亮黃等繽紛色調的緊身開衩洋裝致敬Fendi 1997春夏系列,無袖背心、素T這些簡單的單品藉由亮片綴飾、綢緞面料延伸為晚禮服,延續「日常化」的嶄新高級訂製服概念。由 FENDI 珠寶藝術總監 Delfina Delettrez Fendi設計的FENDI Flavus 高級珠寶也在系列中首次亮相,白鑽與鮮豔的黃鑽相互襯托,富麗堂皇的色彩和火光效果,猶如瀑布般流洩而下的奇景。

Earth tones combined with traditional men’s tailoring suits and vicuña, leather and fur costumes made by Italian tailors. The seemingly simple silhouette and tailoring contain Fendi’s exquisite craftsmanship, resulting in numeral outfits full of practicality. Kim Jones also paid tribute to Fendi’s 1997 SS collection through tight-fitting slit dresses in colorful shades of mint green, pale pinkish gray and bright yellow. Simple items such as sleeveless vests and white Tees were extended into evening dresses with sequin and satin fabrics. FENDI’s Flavus High Jewelry, designed by FENDI’s Jewelry Director Delfina Delettrez Fendi, also debuted in the collection. White diamonds and bright yellow diamonds set off each other. The magnificent color and flashing effect are like a waterfall flowing down.

薄紗禮服上,精緻銀色亮片組成大小不一的碎片,隨著身軀擺動彷彿流動的金屬般。
On the tulle dress, delicate silver sequins form fragments of different sizes, swaying with the body like flowing metal.
薄紗禮服上,精緻銀色亮片組成大小不一的碎片,隨著身軀擺動彷彿流動的金屬般。
On the tulle dress, delicate silver sequins form fragments of different sizes, swaying with the body like flowing metal.
十八世紀京都傳統的和服布料碎片與絲綢重組拼接,重新縫製而成得不對稱剪裁款式。
Pieces of traditional kimono fabric from Kyoto in the 18th century were reassembled and spliced with silk and re-stitched to create an asymmetrical cut.