TRANSLATION | Neda
陽光透過竹葉的間隙緩緩散落，伴隨日落變化輝映大稻埕百年老宅一隅，時光荏苒，塵寰萬物曾未停下消長的腳步，不論外顯內化，盡收於盡收於辰光流年中。闊別兩年，《enya FASHION QUEEN》再度邀請國際名廚江振誠擔任八月號封面人物，這次他化身為時空旅人，引領我們走入古典法式傳奇，細數九個世紀的歷史洪流，且看江振誠如何突破自我天花板，遊弋於回顧與展望間，再再解鎖人生新成就。
Sunlight slowly scatters through the gaps between the bamboo leaves, along with the change of the sunset, at a corner of the century-old house in Dadaocheng. Time flies, everything in the world has never stopped growing, no matter whether it is external or internal, it is all collected in times. After two years , “enya FASHION QUEEN” once again invited André Chiang to be the cover star of the August issue. This time he turned into a time traveler, leading us to the classic French legend, counting down the nine centuries of history, and seeing how the chef breaks through, cruising between retrospect and outlook, and then unlock new achievements in life.
白色，象徵著澄淨單純，毫不造作的性格，正如江振誠予人的感受般真摯。如此也體現於他近期與寶格麗合作推出的葡萄酒款，滿是爛漫的白色花紋酒標，寄寓了豐厚的法國古典文化，同時兼顧現代美學，「因為我們這次的主題是復刻與經典，在酒的方面也挑了一支非常特別的酒。自最源頭開始，挑葡萄酒莊、挑地塊、從味道到設計，全部都自己來。」若細心爬梳挑選準則，他透露當想起法國的葡萄酒，首要浮現於大腦的便是波爾多，其乾淨直接的特性，也讓江振誠隨即決定以白色酒標為靈感延伸，「會選這支酒也是因為法國的酒莊主人跟我是好朋友，我有天跟他聊到這件事，想挑支酒來配我這次的菜單，我想要個性是很 Andre 或是很適合 RAW 的。」深耕料理檯之餘，將美學觸角從自身出發，削去過多的複雜層次，一品直球對決的純粹法式味蕾。
RAW 最新一季的菜單以「GRANDE CLASSIQUE」揭開序幕，由主廚江振誠籌備數月的道道經典，試圖帶領所有人穿越古今，回溯法國十一至二十世紀，於餐桌上共同探索跨越九世紀的文化底蘊。談起以法國為靈感的緣由，江振誠表示源自於近期有趣的餐飲現象，「這幾年在台灣，尤其是年輕的料理人，對這些新穎炫技的烹調手法，越來越疲乏了，反而對古典的做法，一個湯要十六小時、一個肉派做三天，那種很硬體質的東西非常有興趣，覺得這是真正料理應該要有的樣子。」介於古典與新穎之間，讓江振誠認為這或許是個契機，讓台灣年輕一代有機會嘗到百年硬底子的法式烹調，他便義無反顧地扛起「傳承」的重責大任，「因為如果我不做也沒人會做跟要做，這東西就沒機會傳下去。每道菜都是上百年歷史的菜色，包括在法國，像這樣的料理出現在同個菜單裡基本上是沒有的，所以我覺得是很難得的機會。」本季菜單另一個亮點莫過於集結了在台的法國夢幻匠人卡司，推廣厲害的法國職人之餘，也讓更多人知曉何處可品嚐最優質的法國魚子醬、法國起司、法國葡萄酒、法國麵包以及法國甜點，由江振誠領軍的法國夢幻隊，正式插旗 RAW。
如今一位難求的台中飛花落院，以及甫開幕便成為熱議焦點的宜蘭 CÔTE À CÔTE，尤其兩間餐廳菜品的細膩度，皆讓人難以忘懷。藉由主廚江振誠毫不藏私的分享，不僅開啟台灣精緻飲食的新風氣，也造就了更多的人才輩出。當問及是什麼原因擁有如此無私的導師精神？「我常常說一個 Andre 沒辦法改變台灣的餐飲業，也不是 Andre 再開二十家餐廳就能改變台灣的餐飲業，是必需每個人對這樣的東西都有認知和熱情。」他認為台灣其實擁有不少優秀料理人與經營者，缺的只是臨門一腳或想法上的幫助，自己最大的功能便在於讓大家更清楚每個餐廳的規劃方向，以堅定謙遜的語氣娓娓道來，擁有這般無私分享的大愛精神著實令人欽佩。
出版料理書《八角哲學》、紀錄片《初心》以及與各大品牌合作等，主廚江振誠持續以不同向度展現自我，也讓人望見「唯有江振誠能超越江振誠」的宏大氣度。對於尚未解鎖的人生新畛域，他則笑答未來敬請期待，「不管是 Fine Dining 也好或是其他料理，我其實沒有給料理太多的設限。我們生活在一個很好的世代，在台灣真的有很多很棒的事物，不論日本料理、法國料理、台灣味也好，我覺得我都可以用我的方式跟大家分享，所以接下來會有蠻多不同的嘗試和大家見面。」面臨世代不斷創新、更迭之下，如何保有一顆從容自在的心，扎穩腳跟並持續向前，江振誠對此提出了獨樹一幟的觀點，「我反而覺得當我們時常地『往後看』，其實會讓我們的步調稍微慢一點，我認為這是好事。」更舉例現代人經常開發新 ㄍ餐廳、新景點，而他卻會花時間思考有哪些餐廳是拜訪後很喜歡，想一去再去；亦或哪些書籍是讓他愛不釋手，想再次拜讀回味。「包括這次做古典法式料理也是一樣，會讓自己停下來，去欣賞很多很美的事物，這些事物是當你在一個高速運轉的狀態沒辦法好好欣賞的。」閱讀至此，不妨嘗試停下匆匆腳步，靜心享受分秒間大千世界所捎來的細膩感知，一同與主廚慢品內斂優雅的法式工藝哲學。
Stepping into Design Aesthetics
White symbolizes a pure and unpretentious character, just as sincere as the feeling André Chiang has left to people. This is also reflected in the wine he recently launched in cooperation with Bvlgari, which is full of brilliant white pattern wine label, embodying the classical French culture, while taking into account modern aesthetics, “Because our theme this time is retro and classic. In terms of wine, I also chose a very special wine. Starting from the beginning, I chose the winery, the yard; moreover, from the taste to the design, all by myself.” If you carefully read the criterion of selection through, he revealed that when he thinks of the French wine, the first thing that comes to his mind is Bordeaux. Its clean and direct features also made André Chiang decide to use the white wine label as an inspiration to extend, “I chose this wine because the French winery owner is a good friend of mine. I talked to him about this one day, and I want to choose a wine to match my menu this time, I want a character that is very André or very suitable for RAW.” In addition to working in the kitchen, he starts from himself and the aesthetics.
The latest seasonal menu of RAW is unveiled by the name “GRANDE CLASSIQUE”. Chef André Chiang prepared various classic dishes for several months, trying to lead everyone through the past and the present, back to the 11th to 20th Centuries in France, and to explore the cultural heritage from the Ninth Century together on the dining table. Mentioning the reason for taking France as an inspiration, André Chiang said that it stemmed from the recent dining phenomenon which is interesting, “In recent years in Taiwan, especially young cooks, they are getting more and more tired of the novelty and show-off of cooking techniques. Instead, for the classical recipe, it might take 16 hours to boil a soup and 3 days for a meat pie. I am very interested in that kind of things, and I think this is what real cooking is supposed to be like.” Between the classic and the innovative, André Chiang thinks that this may be an opportunity to give the younger generation of Taiwan an opportunity to taste the century-old French cuisine, so that he takes the heavy responsibility of “inheritance” without hesitation, “because if I don’t do it, no one will do it, this thing will remain no chance to inherit. Every dish has a historic background that might be century-old, including in France, there are basically no dishes like this on the same menu, so I think it is a rare opportunity.” Another highlight of this season’s menu is to assemble dreamlike French craftsmen in Taiwan. In addition to promoting excellent French craftsmen, it also lets more people know where to taste the best French caviar, French cheese, French wine, French bread and French desserts, the heavenly French team led by André Chiang officially placed a flag at RAW.
Selfless Mentor Spirit
Recently, the INFLORESCENCE in Taichung which is incredibly difficult to reserve a table, and CÔTE À CÔTE in Yilan which has immediately become a topic since its opening, especially the delicateness of the dishes of these two restaurants are unforgettable. With Chef André Chiang’s generous sharing, it not only opened up a new trend of Taiwanese fine dining, but also created more talented people. When asked what is the reason for such a selfless mentorship? “I often say that the catering industry in Taiwan can’t be changed merely by me, or even if I open another 20 restaurant can’t make it possible, either. It is necessary for everyone to have awareness and enthusiasm for such things.” He believes that Taiwan actually has many excellent cooks and operators lack only a footstep or help with ideas. He is here to let everyone know more about the planning direction of each restaurant, and to express it in a firm but humble way. The great spirit of sharing selflessly is truly admirable.
Publishing the book “Octaphilosophy” and the documentary “Andre and His Olive Tree”, chef André Chiang continues to show himself in different aspects, and it also makes people see the grandeur of “only André Chiang can rival André Chiang”. Regarding the new frontier of life that has not yet been unlocked, he smiled and replied that he will look forward to the future, “Whether it is fine dining or other cuisines, I don’t actually set too many restrictions on cooking. We live in a very nice era, there are a lot of great things here in Taiwan, whether the cuisine is Japanese, French, or Taiwanese, I think I can present them in my own way, so there will be a lot of different attempts to show in the future.” Facing the continuous innovation and change of generations, to maintain a calm and easygoing mindset and to establish a firm foothold that continues to move forward, André Chiang puts forward a unique point of view on this, “I feel that when we often ‘look back’, in fact, it makes our pace a little slower, which I think is a good thing.” For example, nowadays, people often develop new restaurants and new attractions, but he will spend time thinking about which restaurants he likes after visiting or make him willing to visit again and again, or which books make him fall in love with and wants to read them again. “It’s the same with making classical French cuisine this time. It made me stop and appreciate many beautiful things, which you can’t appreciate when you are operating speedily.”