TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
Retro color schemes, warm hues, complex layers and earth tones are often the first impressions of autumn and winter. Opening a brand new chapter, this year’s bag variation, soft texture and high-saturated color schemes quietly imbue the upcoming seasons with a sense of warmth.
秋冬等於大地色?又或著是偏偏要獨樹一幟。Gucci創意總監Alessandro Michele用電影誇張重現並以服飾填補，訴說著奇幻想像，厚重毛料、異材質拼湊和怪異變裝都是人們展示自己，為塑造自己慾望和最終感受停留的樣子。Gucci Attache重新詮釋了傳統及品牌符碼包款，完美輪廓與機械感十足的Ｇ型扣環，成為令人渴望擁的夢幻逸品。
世代不斷的嘗試改變與創新，不管是衣著或配件，重新拼湊逐漸形成超現實概念，熟悉的事物也開始變得抽象。承襲Virgil Abloh主張的精神和理念，路易威登全新男裝形象廣告「V」世代，色彩斑斕卻也充滿感性玩味，藉此呼應Virgil Abloh的彩虹之路。
透過攝影師的鏡頭，模特兒置身如畫框的空間，充滿實驗精神的前衛大膽風格就此從珍奇櫃裡釋放。Dior創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri所設計的秋冬時裝系列將頌揚新時代的到來，藉由16至19世紀繪畫史中的女性肖像畫汲取靈感，對從古至今持續制約女性的世俗眼光表達質疑。標誌性的Bar Jacket配有與義大利新創公司D-Air lab* 合作打造的溫度調節科技裝置，經典包款透過現代主義的棱鏡詮釋，美學與科技結合重新演繹廓形，將過去、現在和未來緊密相連。
Do autumn and winter equal earthy tones? Perhaps it’s more about being distinctive. Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele recreates iconic movie scenes with his new collection. Capturing his fantastical imaginations, the heavy fabrics, variation of materials and the bizarre alterations become ways in which people express themselves and their true desires. The Gucci Attache reinterprets the House’s archives with its perfect silhouette and G-shaped hook closure—the bag of our dreams is thus created.
Back to the Basics
Like embarking on a short journey through time, what comes into view is pure and transparent, but at the same time full of unique insights—it’s the sublimation of beauty. The Louis Vuitton AW22 womenswear collection pays tribute to the unrestrained spirit of adolescence through designs departing from convention and delivers an ode to the fleeting and precious nature of youth.
As generations continue to change and innovate, whether it’s clothing or accessories, the concept of surrealism gradually falls in place, while the things we are familiar with become more abstract. Inheriting the late Virgil Abloh’s spirit and belief, Louis Vuitton’s latest menswear collection campaign—Generation V—is enriched with colors but also instilled with emotion and fun, echoing the legendary designer’s extraordinary legacy.
Cabinet of Curiosities
Through the camera lens, the models are placed in picture frame-like spaces—the avant-garde style and experimental spirit come to full bloom in the cabinet of curiosities. Celebrating the arrival of the next era, Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri draws inspiration from the portraits of women from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries and expresses her doubts towards the judgment that has conditioned, and still conditions, women from the past to present. The signature Bar Jacket is reinterpreted with climate-sensitive technical inserts made by D-Air Lab, an Italian start-up, while classic handbags are rendered through the prism of modernism. Aesthetics and technology are combined to redefine the iconic silhouettes, linking the past, present and future.
The existence of ready-to-wear is not about the moment it was created, but about the story it carries without any hint of boredom or tedium. Artistic director Kim Jones reworks and pairs the geometric prints of 1986 with the diaphanous lightness of the fall-winter collection from 2000. As Fendi’s archives are combined with modern fashion, an exploration of softness and strength in femininity emerges.
A Tribute to Journey
A journey is a symbol of growth and experience, and one may encounter obstacles and challenges along the way. Embarking on a brand new journey, the Fendi Classic collection makes use of the signature brown and tobacco tones. From everyday handbags, duffles to trolleys, the creations pay homage to a selection of brand DNAs, creating a style that is modern, casual but also timelessly chic.
In a scene that is bold and nonsensical, leather, shearling and latex simultaneously capture motion and immobility. LOEWE’s fall collection presents a world that seems imaginative but surreal, with a slight hint of humor. Playing around with optical illusions, the balloons—lots of it—surprisingly exude beauty with intensity.
About the Artisanal
Embellished with antique-like brass, the knot design showcases a simple but fashionable silhouette, while the lowkey color scheme sets the tone for a mature and warm autumn atmosphere. Beginning a new chapter with the intrecciato, the handwoven bags are strong with texture but lightweight, the playful knot design being either elegant or creative depending on its wearer.
With Character and Elegance
An intriguing scent is always one that cannot be forgotten. Burberry offers a beautiful ode to the strong women of the world with the new Lola bag. Celebrating the heritage of the brand with the Monogram motif, the two quilted runway bags are softly structured and limited-edition. Crafted with top-stitched, sequined leather in black and burgundy, they are a testament to the coexistence of exquisite craftsmanship and elegant luxury.