TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

復古極致的色調、暖調、層次、蕭瑟與大地色彩往往是秋冬給人的第一印象，而今年以包款變奏、軟綿、濃厚色彩意象開啟篇章，悄悄為秋冬注入一絲暖意。

Retro color schemes, warm hues, complex layers and earth tones are often the first impressions of autumn and winter. Opening a brand new chapter, this year’s bag variation, soft texture and high-saturated color schemes quietly imbue the upcoming seasons with a sense of warmth. 

/復古變裝

秋冬等於大地色?又或著是偏偏要獨樹一幟。Gucci創意總監Alessandro Michele用電影誇張重現並以服飾填補，訴說著奇幻想像，厚重毛料、異材質拼湊和怪異變裝都是人們展示自己，為塑造自己慾望和最終感受停留的樣子。Gucci Attache重新詮釋了傳統及品牌符碼包款，完美輪廓與機械感十足的Ｇ型扣環，成為令人渴望擁的夢幻逸品。

/反璞歸真

短暫時光旅途之中，眼前見到的是純粹透徹，同時又充滿獨特見解，這就是在短暫的蛻變之中，美麗昇華的階段。路易威登秋冬女裝系列順從本能穿搭且不受傳統拘束，藉此來詮釋青春期未完待續的詩篇，向青少年自由不羈的精神致敬。

/玩味V世代

世代不斷的嘗試改變與創新，不管是衣著或配件，重新拼湊逐漸形成超現實概念，熟悉的事物也開始變得抽象。承襲Virgil Abloh主張的精神和理念，路易威登全新男裝形象廣告「V」世代，色彩斑斕卻也充滿感性玩味，藉此呼應Virgil Abloh的彩虹之路。

/珍奇櫃之美

透過攝影師的鏡頭，模特兒置身如畫框的空間，充滿實驗精神的前衛大膽風格就此從珍奇櫃裡釋放。Dior創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri所設計的秋冬時裝系列將頌揚新時代的到來，藉由16至19世紀繪畫史中的女性肖像畫汲取靈感，對從古至今持續制約女性的世俗眼光表達質疑。標誌性的Bar Jacket配有與義大利新創公司D-Air lab* 合作打造的溫度調節科技裝置，經典包款透過現代主義的棱鏡詮釋，美學與科技結合重新演繹廓形，將過去、現在和未來緊密相連。

/重溫衣櫥

所謂時裝，最值得回味的一點在於它並不只為某時某刻而存在，而是不帶一絲一毫的平淡乏味，每件衣服背後都蘊藏著故事。Fendi藝術總監Kim Jones將昔日的經典與當下的時尚結合，2000年秋冬的輕透質感注入1986年的幾何印花設計，將柔美的時裝設計與獨立的女性形象融合。

/致敬旅程

一段旅行象徵成長和經驗，在路途中也許會遇見一些碰撞和挑戰，Fendi創造了全新旅程，Classic系列運用經典的菸草色及棕色調製，從日常包款、旅行袋到拉桿箱皆向品牌DNA致敬，傳達出當代、輕盈又雋永的時髦風格。

/大膽意象

一幕充滿大膽偏風意味的戲碼，皮革、毛氈和乳膠像被捕捉的動感，又像被困住的物件。LOEWE秋冬系列捏造一個似虛幻的世界，意想不到的超現實意味中帶有幾分幽默，加上視覺陷阱的錯視效果，上身下身點綴的那些氣球元素，更意外散發著強烈美感。

/編織工藝

扭結的造型點綴仿舊色澤的黃銅金屬，勾勒簡約時髦的線條，以低調內斂的色系，打造沉穩溫潤的秋冬氣息。Bottega Veneta以成熟的編織元素開啟嶄新篇章，手感厚實的皮革編織包體卻極致輕盈，俏皮的結飾造型時而優雅，時而創意。

/個性優雅並存

耐人尋味的氣息總讓人難以忘懷，Burberry藉由全新Lola包款，向全世界的堅強女性獻上一首美麗頌歌，以絎縫詮釋品牌經典元素，靈感源自標誌性格紋，而兩款限量版包款為柔和硬挺的絎縫時裝秀包，以正面壓縫亮片羔羊皮製成，精緻工藝與優雅奢華並存。

Retro Alteration 

Do autumn and winter equal earthy tones? Perhaps it’s more about being distinctive. Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele recreates iconic movie scenes with his new collection. Capturing his fantastical imaginations, the heavy fabrics, variation of materials and the bizarre alterations become ways in which people express themselves and their true desires. The Gucci Attache reinterprets the House’s archives with its perfect silhouette and G-shaped hook closure—the bag of our dreams is thus created. 

Back to the Basics 

Like embarking on a short journey through time, what comes into view is pure and transparent, but at the same time full of unique insights—it’s the sublimation of beauty. The Louis Vuitton AW22 womenswear collection pays tribute to the unrestrained spirit of adolescence through designs departing from convention and delivers an ode to the fleeting and precious nature of youth. 

Generation V

As generations continue to change and innovate, whether it’s clothing or accessories, the concept of surrealism gradually falls in place, while the things we are familiar with become more abstract. Inheriting the late Virgil Abloh’s spirit and belief, Louis Vuitton’s latest menswear collection campaign—Generation V—is enriched with colors but also instilled with emotion and fun, echoing the legendary designer’s extraordinary legacy. 

Cabinet of Curiosities 

Through the camera lens, the models are placed in picture frame-like spaces—the avant-garde style and experimental spirit come to full bloom in the cabinet of curiosities. Celebrating the arrival of the next era, Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri draws inspiration from the portraits of women from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries and expresses her doubts towards the judgment that has conditioned, and still conditions, women from the past to present. The signature Bar Jacket is reinterpreted with climate-sensitive technical inserts made by D-Air Lab, an Italian start-up, while classic handbags are rendered through the prism of modernism. Aesthetics and technology are combined to redefine the iconic silhouettes, linking the past, present and future.

Revisiting Archives

The existence of ready-to-wear is not about the moment it was created, but about the story it carries without any hint of boredom or tedium. Artistic director Kim Jones reworks and pairs the geometric prints of 1986 with the diaphanous lightness of the fall-winter collection from 2000. As Fendi’s archives are combined with modern fashion, an exploration of softness and strength in femininity emerges. 

A Tribute to Journey 

A journey is a symbol of growth and experience, and one may encounter obstacles and challenges along the way. Embarking on a brand new journey, the Fendi Classic collection makes use of the signature brown and tobacco tones. From everyday handbags, duffles to trolleys, the creations pay homage to a selection of brand DNAs, creating a style that is modern, casual but also timelessly chic. 

Daring Imagery 

In a scene that is bold and nonsensical, leather, shearling and latex simultaneously capture motion and immobility. LOEWE’s fall collection presents a world that seems imaginative but surreal, with a slight hint of humor. Playing around with optical illusions, the balloons—lots of it—surprisingly exude beauty with intensity. 

About the Artisanal 

Embellished with antique-like brass, the knot design showcases a simple but fashionable silhouette, while the lowkey color scheme sets the tone for a mature and warm autumn atmosphere. Beginning a new chapter with the intrecciato, the handwoven bags are strong with texture but lightweight, the playful knot design being either elegant or creative depending on its wearer. 

With Character and Elegance

An intriguing scent is always one that cannot be forgotten. Burberry offers a beautiful ode to the strong women of the world with the new Lola bag. Celebrating the heritage of the brand with the Monogram motif, the two quilted runway bags are softly structured and limited-edition. Crafted with top-stitched, sequined leather in black and burgundy, they are a testament to the coexistence of exquisite craftsmanship and elegant luxury.