TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
步入花繁葉茂的繽紛，直抵春日最核心，由一片片珍稀寶石串起的旖旎風光，耽溺之情如植被般綻放，亦如 Bulgari Eden the Garden of Wonders 為寶格麗對祖母綠的深情告白，首度於單一頂級珠寶系列中推出多件以祖母綠為主的華麗巨作，解放自由創意，透過藝術昇華瑰麗寶石的多重魅力。取材自羅馬最著名的花園之一 Villa Borghese，Heart of Rome 羅馬之心頂級鑽石與祖母綠項鍊展現了工整建築法般的設計細節，鑲嵌一顆代表著品牌經典標誌的甜麵包山形切割枕形 42.31 克拉哥倫比亞祖母綠，以不同切割相互呼應光影的層次安排，完美詮釋了體積份量與細膩對稱之平衡，實屬巔峰之作。另一吸睛的嶄新實驗色彩，將經典顏色重新組合搭配，傳遞奢華生動的大膽訊息，於 Bird of Paradise 天堂鳥頂級鑽石與帕拉伊巴碧璽彩寶項鍊中便可尋得，堅硬金屬化成輕盈柔軟的羽毛，巧妙運用縞瑪瑙點綴，並鑲嵌六顆色澤清亮的帕拉伊巴碧璽，創造出錯視效果的層次感，彷若感受天堂鳥於空中飛舞的栩栩姿態，象徵伊甸奇蹟花園的無限可能。
色彩運用，早已根深蒂固於寶格麗 DNA 之中，對彩寶藝術大師而言，已然如呼吸般自若。於伊甸奇蹟花園內，不可或缺的蓊鬱碧翠，透過嫩芽新生、花朵盛放捎來爛漫生氣，無一不顯露蓬勃明媚光景。柔美的 Ninfea Romance 浪漫睡蓮頂級彩寶項鍊，為當代女性的優雅象徵，以代表羅馬的馬賽克風格呈現粉嫩迷人，七顆份量豐厚、總重 41.20 克拉的橢圓形切割紅碧璽，彷彿睡蓮漂浮於池塘，受珍珠母貝與粉色蛋白石圍繞，錯落點綴圓形切割的祖母綠，巧妙呈現畫龍點睛的跳色效果，為一方池塘帶來詼諧活力。傳說中，祖母綠是女神維納斯與埃及豔后最為鍾愛的寶石，將天然瑰寶雕琢成件件驚艷稱奇的曠世逸品，融匯人類的聰慧與巧手，致敬女神與寶石之美，便是對二者的最佳鮮麗寫照。
以高級訂製服的準則運用於高級珠寶的創作語彙，將寶石豐饒斑斕的色彩回敬 Dior 的品牌傳承，Victoire de Castellane 續寫她對蕾絲精妙的嶄新領悟，體現於全新 Dearest Dior 高級珠寶系列。從 77 款卓越非凡的作品中，可見得女性多樣貌的迷人特質，細膩敏感也為之強大，雋永風格跳脫時間汰換經緯的風貌，以撩撥感官的線條抱擁身形，於從容律動中流瀉高雅精神。項鍊、戒指、手鐲如蕾絲般輕盈環繞，留下璀璨美鑽與紅寶石、珍珠與碧璽，藍色、粉色或黃色藍寶石展現彩寶閃爍的多彩光澤，輔以精心交織的構圖，使人聯想交織纏繞的精緻蕾絲緹花面料，完美體現 Dior 珠寶工坊的多樣工法與嫻熟技藝。
極盡吻合於肌膚之上，在閃耀與透析間宛如催眠遊戲，蕾絲以金色網狀如床單般柔軟輕薄，歸功於廣泛研究及反覆試驗下的成果，作品的線條與連結處經縝密細究後，實現完美貼合腕間、手部與頸部的穿戴效果。一條宛如金匠的絲帶，由一系列鋪鑲點綴美鑽、如散落花朵或流蘇裝飾與亮片，延續了珠寶與時裝之間的創意對話。靈感汲取 Dior Galons 系列的型態，圖騰則是以植物為設計特色，向迪奧先生對自然的無盡熱忱致意。遊走於傳統與創新間，耳環的非對稱式風格到超現代主義詮釋的項圈式頸鍊，紅寶石吊飾轉譯成一枚精美胸針，令人沈迷的珠寶創作新篇章，向工坊的非凡技藝致敬，寄寓種種華美巧思，靜待有緣人悉心賞玩。
復刻品牌傳奇黃鑽項鍊 Tiffany Diamond，為本次 Tiffany 高級珠寶展重磅之作，逾 106 克拉白鑽的高級珠寶項鍊，運用原創的 82 個刻面枕形明亮式切割，進而凸顯其美感與色澤，使主鑽盡情散發璀璨光芒。作為珍稀寶石領域的代表，Tiffany 從現已關閉的澳洲阿蓋爾鑽石礦區購得最後一批粉鑽，阿蓋爾鑽石礦更首次以珠寶品牌為其訂製系列命名，35 顆的夢幻光影亦為訂製服務增添了不少亮點。全新推出的石上鳥珍珠系列，以罕見天然珍珠嶄新演繹 Jean Schlumberger 經典之作，跳脫過往小鳥於各色鑽石、寶石佇立的動人模樣，著實令人驚喜，同系列如巴洛克式設計胸針、灰色天然海水珍珠戒指，其珍珠皆產自波斯灣地區，大小、形狀與耀眼光澤均屬頂極珍品，於細微之處展現 Jean Schlumberger 特有美學，落實自萬物汲取不竭藝術靈感，花開花落中，將平凡化作不凡。
As we discover the origin of everything, we are diving deep into the pure and true beauty of nature to celebrate mother earth’s virtuous harmony and experiencing the throbbing joy and vitality. Paying tribute to the long-standing relationship shared between jewelry houses and the gorgeous gems, the dazzling and precious pieces—an ode to the extraordinary wonders and enduring elegance of nature—are coming to life with ingenious designs right in front of our eyes.
Garden of Eden
Spring is a time of blossoming flowers and foliage, a time of charm that can be mimicked by rare gems strung together. It is a time when indulgence blooms like vegetation, the same way Bulgari pays tribute to its love for emeralds with Eden the Garden of Wonders, the first high jewelry collection centered solely around the precious green gemstone. Free of restraints and filled with creativity, the gorgeous collection sublimates the multi-layered charm of emeralds through art. Taking inspiration from Villa Borghese, the Heart of Rome High Jewelry necklace perfectly captures the shape of the villa viewed from the sky with its architectural design details. Adorned with an exceptional 42.31 carat sugarloaf cut emerald at the center and layered with diamonds of different cuts, the piece strikes the perfect balance between volume and delicacy, an epitome of Bulgari’s phenomenal creative vision. Another eye-catching creation experimenting with new colors, the Bird of Paradise High Jewelry necklace delivers a bold message of luxury and vibrancy by playing around with classic colors. Turning rigid metal into lightweight feathers, the piece is cleverly embellished with onyx and six Paraiba tourmalines to create a spectacular visual contrast. As if soaring in the sky like birds of paradise, the extraordinary artistry becomes a symbol of the infinite possibilities found in Eden, the Garden of Wonders.
The use of color has long been ingrained in Bulgari’s DNA, something that is as easy as breathing to the master of colorful jewelry. In the Garden of Eden, the indispensable lush greenery is brought to life through the blooming new life and flowers, all of which radiate with throbbing vitality. A symbol of a modern woman’s elegance, the Ninfea Romance High Jewelry necklace captures the charm of the Roman mosaic style. Consisting of seven oval-cut tourmalines, totaling 41.20 carats, surrounded by mother-of-pearl, pink opals and round-cut emeralds, the piece resembles how water lilies float in a pond. The way the gemstones are ingeniously adorned to highlight their color contrast brings jubilance to the miraculous pond. Legend has it that emeralds were Roman goddess Venus and Cleopatra’s favorite gem. By combining human ingenuity and dexterity when it comes to carving natural treasures, the necklace becomes a tribute to the ancient goddesses and the absolute beauty of emeralds.
Essence of Elegance
By applying the principles of haute couture to high jewelry, Victoire de Castellane continues her innovative chapter on lace with a new interpretation, the Dearest Dior High Jewelry collection. A tribute to Dior’s brand heritage, the collection is composed of 77 extraordinary creations that celebrates a multi-faceted femininity that can be fragile and powerful, all at the same time. Timeless without losing modernity, each marvel embraces the skin and the curves of the body, while radiating with the spirit of elegance. From necklaces, rings, to bracelets, every piece takes finesse and lightness from lace and showcases the shimmer shades of diamonds and rubies, pearls and tourmalines, sapphires in blue, pink and yellow. Through the complex compositions, the collection evokes the intertwining of refined guipure, perfectly showcasing the great meticulousness and diverse techniques of Dior artisans.
In a hypnotic play of shine and transparency, the lace is made of gold that appears to be as thin as supple mesh sheets, a result of extensive research and development. After careful research on the lines and articulations, the pieces adapt perfectly to the curves of the hand, wrist and neck. Like a goldsmith’s ribbon that is enhanced by an array of stitched diamonds, scattered flowers, tassels and sequins, the creative dialogue between jewelry and couture thus continues. Drawing inspiration from the Dior Galons models, the motifs feature plant designs in homage to Monsieur Dior’s unconditional passion for mother nature. Bridging the gap between tradition and innovation, earrings play around with asymmetry, necklaces transform into ultra-modern chokers, while the ruby-set pendant becomes a gorgeous brooch. As Dior begins a fascinating new chapter on jewelry design, the novelties, imbued with all kinds of beautiful, ingenious ideas, celebrate the impeccable craftsmanship of the Atelier and await to be picked up by collectors who are fortunate enough to appreciate them.
A Legacy Continues
Recreating the legendary Tiffany Diamond, the highlight of the Tiffany High Jewelry Exhibition this year is a high jewelry necklace of white diamonds weighing over 106 carats. An absolute masterpiece, it features the final cushion-shape brilliant design that boasts an unprecedented 82 facets, accentuating its beauty and color and allowing the centerpiece to shine to its brightest. As the expert in rare gemstones, Tiffany & Co. has acquired a final bespoke curation of rare pink diamonds from the now-closed Argyle Diamond Mine in Australia. This also marks the first time Argyle has ever curated a collection named in honor of a jeweler, allowing the last 35 diamonds to elevate the jewelry house’s customization service. The luxury house also introduces the brand new Bird on a Pearl capsule collection. Reinventing the Jean Schlumberger signature with natural pearls, the creations differ from the original design of birds standing on diamonds and gemstones and feature various surprising designs. From the Baroque-styled brooch to the natural saltwater gray pearl ring, all the pearls used originated from the Gulf and are of the finest quality in terms of size, shape and shine. Every exquisite detail is a showcase of Jean Schlumberger’s one-of-a-kind aesthetic, an epitome of how nature serves as the ultimate inspiration for art. Because the only way of transforming the mundane into the extraordinary is by looking closely between a flower’s bloom and wither.