TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
「為何百達翡麗提供形形色色的時計系列？只因每款時計各具個性，以不同的方式促進我們創新和表達自我。」百達翡麗總裁 Thierry Stern 如是說。今年日內瓦高級鐘錶展，百達翡麗呈現十七款最新腕錶，各具技術創新與美學特色，令旗下時計系列陣容更盛。編號 6300/403G-001 百達翡麗大師報時高級珠寶腕錶，添上一百一十八顆長方形綠寶石 （7.87 克拉）和二百九十一顆長方形鑽石（20.54 克拉），奠立「長方形」及「隱密式鑲嵌」技巧的卓爾典範，舉手投足間閃爍生輝。
另一亮點，為百達翡麗重新演繹兩款三問腕錶，編號 5531G-001 珍稀手工藝世界時 區三問腕錶為首款可時刻報上當地時間的三問時計，亦是首款世界時區三問白金腕錶，錶面綴以全新大明火掐絲琺瑯畫像，展現蒸汽船於日內瓦湖上航行的經典場景；另一新款時計為編號 5178G-012 珍稀手工藝三問腕錶，搭配自動上鍊機芯及「教堂鐘聲」音簧，音色深厚豐滿，新穎錶面由人手刻上交錯渦形飾紋，添以藍色大明火透明琺瑯。靈感源自裝飾藝術的 Gondolo 時計系列，編號 4962/200R-001 Gondolo Serata 腕錶由玫瑰金製成，鑲以錳鋁榴石，營造雙色漸變效果，凸顯錶殼精緻弧線，棕色塗漆錶面以花卉圖案潤飾，為優雅現代的摩登款式。
勞力士為紀念 Cosmograph Daytona 誕生 60 週年，推出新一代 Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona（蠔式恒動宇宙計型迪通拿），重新設計眾多細節，使整體錶面色彩呼應，突顯搶眼風格，錶耳與錶殼兩側折射淡雅光澤，視覺上愈顯別緻。今年 GMT-Master II 分別推出黃金鋼款與 18K 黃金款兩款新錶，二者均配備一體成型 Cerachrom 灰黑雙色陶質 24 小時刻度字圈，全新配色令人眼前一亮，新款 GMT-Master II 搭載製錶技術先進的 3285 型機芯，可 24 小時制顯示另一個時區的時間，亦可精準顯示時、分、秒、日期及月份。
三款 Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 新作，盡顯歡悅活力，12 點鐘位置設弧形窗展示如 Happy、Eternity、Gratitude 等鼓舞人心的英文詞彙，3 點鐘位置視窗則以 31 種專屬表情符號取代日期顯示，為煩悶日常捎來會心一笑。另款錶面則以裝飾寶石鍛造，使人憶起地中海沿岸的旖旎風光，綠色砂金石、紅玉髓及綠松石，搭配鑲鑽鐘點標記與羅馬數字 VI 及 IX，外圈均鑲嵌 52 顆圓形鑽石，搭配經典元首型錶帶及優雅隱蔽式皇冠帶扣，盡是藏不住的迷人風采。
揮灑非凡創意，重新演繹面貌一新、獨具個性的造型腕錶，為卡地亞今年所呈現的心意。其中 Tank 腕錶推出兩款新作：向創作於 1917 年的原型錶款致敬的 Tank Normale 腕錶，以及象徵優雅的 Tank Américaine 腕錶，憑藉更為纖薄緊湊的外觀，進一步突顯原作的設計風格與弧形輪廓，錶盤矚目大氣、錶耳與錶帶融為一體，令腕錶的簡約美感更加突出。
除了標誌之作，Pasha 腕錶、Baignoire 腕錶、Panthère 美洲豹腕錶及 Santos de Cartier 腕錶也推出嶄新演繹的作品，Clash [Un]limited 腕錶亦凝聚巧思創意，延續並昇華卡地亞製錶的美學傳承，將精巧與力量融為一體，圓珠、細膩的金質色澤和方形釘 Clash de Cartier 系列的標誌性元素交替鋪陳，俐落分明的輪廓與靈動姿態形成巧妙對比，構成雋永風格。
伯爵的「宮廷式裝飾」誕生於 1960 年代，靈感來自製錶工藝中的璣鏤鐫刻飾紋技術，匠師巧妙利用雕刻針的鋒利尖端於金質扣環上雕琢，以精湛手藝刻畫出獨具風格的凹槽和輪廓線條，每一道刻紋的深度與厚度皆別具匠心。現今可見於亮眼的青藍色綠松石錶盤的手鐲腕錶上，此工藝在另兩款手鐲腕錶中更顯華麗耀眼，均鑲嵌蛋白石，體現出伯爵對大自然的熱愛，一款刻有形似樹皮和礦脈紋飾面，另一款則以短暫華美的寒霜為題，從不對稱感中襯托每顆寶石的神秘魅力。
當大自然的生命遇見製錶業最歷史悠久的複雜功能「萬年曆」，全新 Piaget Polo 萬年曆腕錶黑曜石錶盤就此誕生，其銀色黑曜石錶盤呈現自然的彩虹光環，為感性設計增添了果敢精神與中性氣息。象徵絢麗璀璨與無畏向前的 Aura 系列腕錶，如今透過鑽石與藍寶石的結合重新演繹，長方形切割寶石經過精確校準，搭載伯爵製的超薄 430P 手動上鏈機械機芯，纖薄鑲爪塑造出仿若隱形鑲嵌的效果，使光線得以滲透並散發獨特光彩，錶盤上的放射狀寶石鑲嵌設計也為腕間增添綺麗風華。
三種蛋面切割的珍貴珠寶素材於梵克雅寶 Perlée 系列初登場，呈灰藍至淡藍色的玉髓擁有工整紋理，於白 K 金的光芒映照下，點綴晶瑩剔透；首次用於系列的粉紅水晶色彩柔和，烘托溫煦玫瑰金；方納石則以黃 K 金鑲嵌，紫藍和不規則紋理別具詩般韻致，剔透中自帶動人層次。換上簇新色彩的 Lady Féerie 腕錶，以琺瑯工藝和微繪細工呈現繽紛微妙，仙子輕揮魔杖，伴隨柔和晚霞，細訴點滴流轉的時光，藍寶石玻璃將這詩意盎然的一幕定格，玻璃上以琺瑯釉彩勾勒雲彩，則為方寸天地鍍上一抹爛漫霞光。
Ludo Secret 系列新增兩款高級珠寶腕錶，運用嶄新尺寸和兩個素材組合，重現經典精髓，玫瑰金糅合鑽石或粉紅色藍寶石，細緻的鑲嵌手法彰顯世家高級珠寶的卓越傳統，渾然天成的網狀細工，如磚塊般拼湊成巧若靈蛇的結構，每一鉸件均以人手精工裝嵌，柔軟靈動緩緩交織。另一全新神秘錶以 1941 年 Ludo Hexagone Macarons 腕錶為藍本，將錶盤藏於祖母綠圖騰之下，透過 Mystery Set 隱密式鑲嵌技術拼湊出璀璨無瑕的色彩效果，略呈拱形的圖騰呼應錶殼外圍呈同心圓的兩行美鑽，而手鐲則以六角形黃 K 金鉸件組成，星形鑲嵌祖母綠為手鐲灑上點點絢爛色彩。
江詩丹頓全新 Traditionnelle 陀飛輪腕錶展現出製錶傳統與現代美學的和諧相融，搭載 2160/1 超薄機芯，由陀飛輪精準調節運轉，盡顯精深技藝內涵，迷人的深綠色旭日紋錶盤，獨創色調以電鍍工藝製作，賦予錶盤微妙層次和深邃魅力。獨一無二的 Les Cabinotiers 閣樓工匠雙月超卓複雜功能腕錶，雙面錶盤上井然有序分佈著 11 項時間顯示和天文複雜功能，於陀飛輪調節下精密運作，從清晰功能佈局到匠心入微的裝飾打磨細節，盡顯珍罕優雅之氣派，內斂外觀下，內「芯」的複雜功能一目了然，十分值得收藏把玩。
簇新 Traditionnelle 陀飛輪逆跳日曆鏤雕腕錶展現了江詩丹頓的非凡創意，藉由透視設計的錶盤及錶底蓋，可欣賞經 NAC 電鍍處理的墨褐色 2162 R31 機芯所呈現的機械律動之美，相互映襯的逆跳日曆顯示與陀飛輪，營造出分明層次感，實用又不失現代風範。兼具運動氣質與優雅魅力的全新 Overseas 月相逆跳日曆腕錶，將天文複雜功能與作為品牌標誌性的逆跳日曆顯示巧妙結合，配備厚度 5.4 毫米的品牌自製 2460 R31L/2 機芯，彰顯出 Overseas 系列一脈相承的當代風範。
繼推出萊姆金和精鋼兩款單按把計時腕錶 Unveiled Secret 後，萬寶龍今年再度推出全新仿舊鋼限量款，於 43 毫米的精鋼錶殼塗覆黑色塗層，再經過手工水洗，以來自白朗峰的石英岩和格里德峽谷的石灰石刷紋處理，連結高山與峽谷，使每只腕錶呈現獨特的光澤和外觀。另一值得欣賞的全新 1858 系列 Unveiled Timekeeper 為突破傳統的計時腕錶，機芯基於 1923 年 Minerva 首度推出的經典自製機芯，既沿襲所有傳統的設計規範和製錶工藝，也走在時代尖端。
為致敬世界高峰與攀登巔峰的勇者，萬寶龍 1858 系列推出四款全新零氧腕錶，不僅紀念品牌與山峰之關聯，同時展示最新的技術革新，將這幾款腕錶轉型為專業運動腕錶，提供探險者所需的高效能。而 1858 系列 Iced Sea 日期顯示自動腕錶今年推出首款限量版禮盒套組，分別為去年上市的綠色款、藍色款及全新推出的冰河灰色款，三款皆別於舊款設計，以彩色雷射鐫刻技術呈現白朗峰的相異美景，送禮自用兩相宜。
2023 Watches & Wonders Geneva
Endless dedication and mastery are invested in creating unique timepieces that allow people to witness the eternity of time, a place where exquisite craftsmanship meets bold creativity. Showcasing daring, distinctive and original brand spirits, the novelties integrate the tradition of merging jewels with timepieces to reveal the rich and diverse facets of jewelry watches. Not only shining with brilliance, but also pushing to reach a sublime level – the past and the future are bridged together as one entity.
“Why does Patek Philippe have so many collections? Because while each collection has a different character, each one allows us to innovate and to express ourselves,” said Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe. At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Genevan watch manufacturer unveils 17 new models, all coming with innovative technology and distinctive aesthetics. Setting itself as the epitome of baguette-cut and invisible setting techniques, the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300/403G-001 features 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 carats) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 carats), while shining brilliantly with each and every wrist movements.
Another highlight is the two reinterpreted minute-repeaters offered by Patek Philippe. Having established itself as the first minute-repeater that always chimes local time, the Ref. 5531G World Time Minute Repeater in white gold comes with a dial that is adorned with a new cloisonné Grand Feu enamel motif depicting the classic scene of the famous steamships still sailing on Lake Geneva today. On the other hand, the self-winding Ref. 5178G-012 Minute Repeater chimes on two “cathedral” gongs and is adorned with refined Rare Handcrafts showcased on the flinqué blue Grand Feu enamel dial, which is finely hand-guilloched with a swirling pattern. Inspired by Art Deco, the Gondolo series introduces a new rose gold version – Ref. 4962/200R-001 Gondolo Serata. The jewelry watch is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient to highlight the exquisite lines of the watch case. Its brown lacquered dial is decorated with a floral motif, establishing itself as the emblem of contemporary elegance.
Celebrating the 60th anniversary of Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex ensures the legend lives on by introducing the brand new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona with reworked designs. The dial presents subtle combinations of colors and finishes, while the lugs and case reflect a soft luster, bringing a greater visual harmony that is delicate and modern. Meanwhile, the GMT-Master II is now available in two new versions this year – yellow Rolesor and 18k yellow gold – with a 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom bezel inserted in gray and black ceramic. Immediately the center of attention upon first glance, the novelty comes with the state-of-the-art calibre 3285 that allows the wearer to read the time in two time zones simultaneously, while showcasing the date and time with absolute precision.
Rolex also unveils three new variants of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 that are filled with joy and energy. Instead of showing the day of the week, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays inspirational keywords – ‘Happy,’ ‘Eternity,’ ‘Gratitude,’ and more – while the window at 3 o’clock reveals 31 exclusive emojis, changing daily, in place of the date. Another new addition to the series welcomes dials made of decorative stones that remind one of the Mediterranean coast and its beautiful scenery. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise, along with diamond-encrusted hour markers and Roman numerals VI and IX, are endowed with a bezel set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds. The three new timepieces all feature the signature President bracelet with a concealed Crownclasp, presenting details that are unable to contain their charm.
Channeling extraordinary creativity, this year, Cartier aims to reinterpret its watches with a new look and a new personality. The Tank watches introduce two novelties – the Tank Normale that pays tribute to the 1917 original model and the Tank Américaine, which serves as a symbol of elegance. With a thinner, more compact design, the 2023 innovation reinforces the original style and its curved shape. Its form is elevated by the dial, which is made more grandeur, and the flawless integration of the brancards into the extension of the strap further enhances the timepiece’s minimalist aesthetic.
Besides the signatures, the Pasha, Baignoire, Panthère and Santos de Cartier also offer new interpretations. With ingenious creativity, the Clash [Un]limited continues to sublimate Cartier’s aesthetic heritage by combining finesses and strength. Iconic elements of the Clash de Cartier collection – beads, pearlescent tones and studs – are used in various ways to create a contrast between the sleek silhouette and agile movement, further establishing a style that defies time.
Piaget’s “courtly adornments” was born in the 1960s and inspired by engraving technique in watchmaking. One line at a time, the gold was incised by the hands of the artisans using the sharp tip of a burin to craft the distinctive patterns and silhouettes, with the lines varying in depth and width to showcase the ingenuity of craftsmanship. Today, the art can be seen on the strikingly contemporary cuff watch with an eye-catching turquoise green dial. Two other masterpieces also reinterpret the same technique, only more opulent and exceptional. Both inlaid with white opal to highlight Piaget’s love for nature, one comes with this rugged, bark-like texture and the other evokes a frosty landscape, highlighting the mysterious allure of each gemstone from the asymmetrical design.
When the vitality of mother nature meets one of watchmaking’s most historic complications, the new Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Obsidian is thus born. Radiating with a natural rainbow luster, the obsidian dial adds a bold and technical, androgynous feel to the sensual design. Meanwhile, a symbol of brilliance and fearlessness, the Aura is reinterpreted by the combination of diamonds and sapphires. The meticulously calibrated baguette-cut gemstones are paired with Piaget’s ultra-thin hand-wound calibre 430P, while the ultra-thin claw setting creates an inlay that appears to be invisible – allowing light to penetrate to emit an unprecedented radiance – and elevates the diamond-set dial with a sunburst pattern.
Three oval-cut rare gemstones make their debut in Van Cleef & Arpels’s Perlée collection. In a hue between gray-blue and light blue, the chalcedony is neatly textured and shines with pristine transparency under the glistening white k gold; marking its debut, the quartz is softly accentuated by the warming rose gold; the sodalite, adorned with yellow k gold, showcases poetic layers with its violet-tinged blue and irregular texture. In new vibrant colors, the Lady Féerie Or Rose watch captures the magical scene of a fairy working her charm against the backdrop of the soft dusk through enamel and micro-painting techniques. The sapphire glass adorned with clouds painted in enamel captures the poetic image and gilds the romantic beauty of nature with a splendid haze.
The Ludo Secret collection introduces two novelties among the High Jewelry watches that recreate classics with brand new dimensions and two combinations of materials. Rose gold is accentuated by diamonds or pink sapphires and minutely set in the high jewelry tradition of excellence. Evoking the agility of a serpent, the watch’s flexible, brick-pattern meshwork is carefully assembled by hand, one piece at a time, to deliver optimal articulation and fluidity. With the 1941 Ludo Hexagone Macarons secret watch as its blueprint, a special new creation features a dial hidden behind a motif adorned with emeralds. Through Mystery Set – a signature savoir-faire – the color appears to be flawless, while the slightly rounded motif complements the diamond-studded curves of two concentric arcs framing the case. The bracelet is composed of a meshwork of yellow hexagons, which is punctuated with star-set emeralds that paints the piece with glistening colors.
Bridging together watchmaking traditions and contemporary aesthetics, Vacheron Constantin introduces a new edition of the Traditionnelle tourbillon watch driven by an ultra-thin calibre 2160/1. Precisely regulated, the tourbillon showcases the profound technical craftsmanship, while the charming dark green sunburst dial is made with electroplating to achieve its unique tone of color. A one-of-a-kind majesty, the Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication features 11 complications distributed in an orderly manner on the dual dial. With the precision of the tourbillon, the clear placements, intricate details and decorations are a declaration of rarity, elegance and magnificence. Despite its understated appearance, the complications are easy to view, establishing the novelty as a must-have for collectors.
The latest Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface perfectly expresses Vacheron Constantin’s creative expertise. Through its open-worked dial and caseback, one gets to enjoy the in-house 2162 R31 self-winding movement – in a slate gray shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – and the beauty of its mechanical power. In perfect coordination, the retrograde date display is complemented by the tourbillon, taking on added depth and layers in a functional but modern style. On the other hand, sporty without losing elegance, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date cleverly incorporates an astronomical complication with the maison’s signature retrograde date display. Equipped with an in-house calibre 2460 R31L/2 that is only 5.4mm thick, the timepiece epitomizes the inherently contemporary spirit of the Overseas collection.
Having launched the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph in lime gold and stainless steel last year, Montblanc returns with a new, limited-edition boasting a distressed steel finish. The 43mm stainless steel case is first covered with a black coating, then the material is manually washed and brushed with quartzite from the Mont-Blanc and limestones from La Combe Grède – a process that brings the mountain and valleys together to highlight each timepiece’s unique luster and appearance. Another innovation worth mentioning is the reimagined 1858 Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva. Breaking conventions, this special time-teller houses the signature manual-winding movement first created in 1923 and inherits the traditional design and watchmaking techniques without losing its place as one of the forerunners in the industry.
To pay homage to the world’s peaks and the brave souls who climb them, Montblanc presents four 1858 Zero Oxygen 8000 models. The capsule collection not only celebrates the bond shared between the brand and mountains, but also showcases the top-tier, revolutionary technology that turns these timepieces into professional athletic watches, perfect for explorers who need their equipment to work in harsh environments. Meanwhile, this year, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date comes in a limited-edition coffret, which includes a blue and a green edition from last year and this year’s glacier gray version. Different from the previous models, all three timepieces are adorned with color engravings depicting different views of Mont-Blanc, an ideal choice for both personal collection and gift giving.