TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
到底誰是引領怪異的始祖，或許看久也能懂得這些時尚，越怪越搶手，在這季秋冬秀上不得不提到Louis Vuitton創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière 大膽玩弄包款，以法國街上的門牌為靈感，透過工匠精巧的技藝化作硬殼包款，一整棟芳登廣場旗艦店變為手提包，即使是煙囪或窗櫺等細節都不馬虎。 Burberry首次端出熱水袋包款，Gucci復古搖滾包也將回歸於經典。
早在60年代，墊肩外套已經是事業型女性的必備裝束，是強烈的自信感與態度。提到墊肩不能不提及標誌性代表Saint Laurent，內斂的璀璨與輪廓在整個系列中出現的墊肩裙套裝中最為明顯，反之，墊肩早不只屬於女性，反而賦予整個系列中性氣息，性感卻不過於嫵媚，有型卻不流於窠臼。而Demna 從過去的 Balenciaga 高級訂製系列中汲取靈感，拖地禮服不僅著重描繪肩部線條，更使整體造型呈現出立體鮮明的圓潤觀感。
日常裝束中點綴一些運動細節，拉鍊連帽衫、機車夾克、運動服和鋪棉外套的內襯中縫入了充氣的填充物，將整體結構重塑，Balenciaga在視覺上轉變了身體的輪廓尺度，以機車越野鞋為靈感設計的Biker靴子 ，類似於某些極限運動時的造型。Louis Vuitton戴上了法國國旗紅白藍三色拼成的賽車手套，配戴著LED發光面罩，呈現跳脫框架的法式異想。
乍看之下是襪子搭配鞋子，仔細一看其實是雙連合一體的短靴，在往年秀場上襪靴的設計早已受人關注，被稱為分體式襪靴，將襪子與高跟鞋疊穿，運用其相近的顏色打造出靴子的感覺。而這種手法巧妙被重現在今年秋冬秀場上，以更為時髦的姿態回歸，Bottega Veneta這季就以膝下靴為靈感，將其腿部的線條及襪子的意象，以拿手皮革印花的方式呈現。Louis Vuitton 更將高跟鞋加入此概念，幽默感十足。
性感並不僅僅是一抹紅唇搭配細肩帶背心，時尚界一直以來備受關注的趨勢即是透視感，無論是蕾絲、網紗或是網格材質，透過薄薄的質感及似有若無的透視肌膚視覺效果，展現低調性感的傲人姿態。想起 Gucci 在 1990 年代和 2000 年代初期的性感和迷人的設計語言，鑲嵌水晶的 GG 金屬內衣也有異曲同工之妙。
AW23 Trend Report
Rules are rewritten to pursue freedom, with no limitations and boundaries blurred – everything is focused on the expression of details.
As we embrace the warm sunshine, the gentle fabrics of wool, feathers and woolen softly caress our skin. When it comes to autumn and winter, how can we forget about the fur? Reflecting on fashion shows in the past, we found a recurrence of furry elements and noticed how they would instantly become the center of attention. While fur had always been a symbol of class and an equivalence to luxury, this year, it was interpreted in a different way. During AW23 fashion week, instead of using faux fur on outerwear, it was transformed into undergarments, feathers that swayed with body movements and fabrics that seemed heavy but were actually incredibly lightweight. Similar silhouettes were found at Burberry and Gucci’s shows, where fake fur trapper hats took the spotlight with their exaggerated designs.
Say goodbye to the heavy garments of autumn and winter and welcome the spirit of spring and summer. Without being overly colorful, floral elements in shades of black, white and gray create a sense of understated delicacy. Balenciaga, a brand known for its minimalist style, also incorporated flower patterns into dresses and handbags through hollow-out and full print designs, as if adding a glimmer of light to the overarching dark tones. Prada transformed wedding gowns – a symbol of love – into daily wear and created a unique beauty that merged familiarity with romance. Showcasing vintage luxury, Dior’s floral patterns continued to represent the perseverance of femininity.
While it is unclear who started the whole eccentric trend, perhaps with enough observation we can finally understand the fashion and its popularity. During this season’s AW23 fashion week, we have to mention how Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière boldly played around with his handbag designs. Inspired by French street signs, the artisans turned their exceptional craftsmanship into hard case bags. The house’s Place Vendôme flagship was transformed into a handbag that captured small details such as the chimney and window frames. Meanwhile, Burberry debuted its hot water bottle design and Gucci revisited one of its classic vintage rock n’ roll bag archives.
Why not try to view clear instructions as a warm invitation to liberate conventional dress codes, so that style is no longer bound by restrictive shackles? Just like how classic symbols and signs can be reinterpreted or redefined in a new context, familiar objects can be reimagined with a new perspective as well. The phrase “Black Tie” returned to its literal meaning and became a cultural code that defied our regular styling rules. For this season, Valentino is no longer following traditions by switching freely between daywear and evening wear, blurring the line defining formal attire and gowns or dresses.
Back in the ‘60s, the padded shoulder jacket – an emblem of confidence and individuality – was already a necessity for business women. Speaking of the iconic silhouette, one cannot forget about Saint Laurent, who perfectly captured the understated brilliance of the classic look with the padded-shoulder skirt and suit sets. On the other hand, padded shoulders were no longer exclusive to women. Instead, they gave the collection a gender-neutral appeal, which was sexy but not overly flirtatious and stylish but not stereotypical. Drawing inspiration from Balenciaga haute couture archives, Demma focused on depicting shoulder lines in floor-length gowns, creating a more solid but rounded visual for the entire ensemble.
From zip-up hoodies, biker jackets, sportswear to quilted jackets with padded-lining, everyday attire was incorporated with athletic details as the overall structure was reshaped. Transforming the body’s silhouette scale visually, Balenciaga introduced pointy motocross boots inspired by the extreme sport. Louis Vuitton also presented several wearable wardrobe staples – such as moto gloves in red, white and blue to represent the flag of France and glowing LED masks – that offered a French-style imagination breaking conventional boundaries.
At first glance, it looks like socks paired with shoes, and yet, upon closer inspection, it is actually a pair of ankle boots. In past runway shows, similar designs had long been the center of attention. Also known as sock booties, heels were layered with socks of the same color to create the illusion of wearing boots. The same clever technique was found in this year’s AW23 runway shows. Only this time, even more chic and stylish. Taking inspiration from knee-high boots, Bottega Veneta reimagined the silhouette of the leg through their signature leather prints. Louis Vuitton also incorporated the same concept into their heels, adding a touch of playfulness to their footwear offering.
Sexiness is never just about wearing red lips with camisoles. A trend that has been dominating the fashion industry is the use of sheer garments – lace, mesh or netting. Through the thin and subtly see-through materials, it brings out an understated allure by teasing just glimpses of the skin. Reflecting on Gucci’s sexy and captivating design language of the 1990s and early 2000s, one would find the crystal-encrusted GG metal bra actually embodied the similar concept.