以當代手法再現歷史名作的卓爾風采!高級製錶 當代藝術

TEXT|Coco Yang , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang

縱觀高級鐘錶界,向來不乏精準表現與縝密技術,如何與領域之外的藝術家、設計師及工藝大師拓展製錶對話,藉獨出心裁且出乎意料的材質與媒介探索嶄新形式,體現飲水思源的精神,以當代手法再現歷史名作的卓爾風采,滿溢的創作能量正激昂澎湃。 

愛彼 Royal Oak Offshore 皇家橡樹離岸型系列限量黑色陶瓷計時碼錶,錶盤細節圖。
Dial details of the limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph.

王者風範

適逢 Royal Oak Offshore 系列 30 週年,愛彼推出全新皇家橡樹離岸型自動上鏈計時碼錶,以黑色陶瓷重新演繹 1999 年問世的 「魔鬼末日」紀念款,本次致敬極具紀念意義,不僅見證了當時與 Arnold Schwarzenegger 聯合創作的一夕成名,更首次進入大眾視野,於此,愛彼締造特別版的風氣便開始盛行。本次黑色錶面鐫刻新生代「Mega Tapisserie」超大型格紋裝飾,搭配黃色測速儀、時標與指針煥然一新,並與 1999 年原創款的黃黑雙色設計相呼應,K 金立體「AP」標誌設於 12 點鐘位置,三個黑色計時器分據 3、6 及 9 點鐘位置,盡顯和諧勻稱之美。另搭載最新愛彼 4401 自動上鏈一體式計時碼錶機芯,兼具導柱輪與飛返功能,佩戴者只需按一下按鈕,即可一鍵完成計時指針歸零及重新啓動的雙重任務,而機芯上的眾多精修裝飾,包括日內瓦波紋、珍珠圓點打磨、太陽紋、環形霧面打磨及拋光斜面,皆能一覽無遺,無可挑剔的新作向 30 年來不斷突破極限的系列獻上禮讚。

愛彼 Royal Oak Offshore 皇家橡樹離岸型系列限量黑色陶瓷計時碼錶形象圖。
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph limited edition.

光陰狂熱

持續以「融合藝術」為品牌精神的宇舶錶,近期與備受國際關注的法國雕塑藝術家 Richard Orlinski 推出經典融合 Orlinski 鈦金計時碼錶,分別為鍊帶款和橡膠錶帶款兩款新作,巧妙揉合彼此對時間與藝術的熱愛。運用 Orlinski 標誌性的多角度切面與棱角分明的結構造型,以霧面鈦金屬打造 41 毫米錶殼,搭載 HUB1153 自動上鏈計時機芯,立體感十足的鈦金屬鍊帶,由 83 個部件組成,其特殊倒角形狀的鍊節設計,使光線相互折射後散發閃耀光芒,兼具佩戴舒適性與設計美學,經微珠噴砂潤飾的鈦金屬材質帶來的霧面溫潤效果,悄悄傳遞著神秘氣息,霧黑面盤映襯金屬色澤的立體三角柱時標與指針,細微處可見藝術家極簡俐落的標誌性符碼,將當代藝術注入高級腕錶中,造就了獨樹一幟的優雅運動時計。

神秘堂奧

為頌揚 Van Cleef & Arpels 經典之作 Ludo 手鐲典雅雋永的美學,Ludo Secret 系列新增兩款高級珠寶腕錶,運用嶄新的尺寸比例和兩個素材組合,重現經典系列的精髓,玫瑰金糅合鑽石或粉紅色藍寶石,細緻的鑲嵌手法彰顯世家高級珠寶的卓越傳統,渾然天成的網狀細工,如磚塊般拼湊成巧若靈蛇的結構,呼應原作的腰帶造型,每一枚鉸件均以人手精工裝嵌,交織出柔軟靈動的設計,好比細意織造的當代絳紗,足以勾起眾人目光。另一別具匠心的全新神秘錶,汲取 1941 年 Ludo Hexagone Macarons 腕錶精髓,將錶盤藏於祖母綠圖騰之下,以 Mystery Set 隱密式鑲嵌技術拼湊出璀璨無瑕的色彩效果,為精湛工藝的一大結晶,略呈拱形的圖騰呼應錶殼外圍呈同心圓的兩行美鑽,而手鐲則以六角形黃 K 金鉸件組成,星形鑲嵌祖母綠為手鐲灑上點點瑰麗色彩,高超技術臻達珠寶製作的堂奧,現今唯有少數大師級寶石匠和珠寶匠掌握其竅門。

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret 腕錶,形象圖。
Craft details of Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret watch.

In the industry of haute horlogerie, it has always been about precision and meticulous craftsmanship, about starting conversations with artists, designers and artisans from other fields to expand horizons. By employing surprising materials and mediums, watchmakers are exploring innovative methods without losing sight of where everything began. Through contemporary techniques, they strive to recreate the splendor of historical masterpieces, while showcasing an overflowing creative energy that is vibrant and exhilarating. 

Royal Demeanor 

In celebration of Royal Oak Offshore’s 30th anniversary, Audemars Piguet presents a new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, which reimagines the limited “End of Days” edition released in 1999. The tribute holds great significance as it not only commemorates the instant success achieved through the collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger, but also marks its entry into the public eye for the first time. Ever since, the Swiss watchmaking brand has been setting the trend of creating special edition novelties. In black ceramic, the new Offshore features a dial decorated with the new-generation Mega Tapisserie pattern and illuminated with touches of yellow on the tachymeter scale, hour markers and watch hands – perfectly echoing with the original 1999 edition in black and yellow. Showcasing the beauty in balance, while the applied gold AP logo is set at 12 o’clock, the three black counters grace the dial at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. Meanwhile, the novelty houses Audemars Piguet’s latest selfwinding chronograph movement – Calibre 4401 featuring a column wheel and flyback function – which allows the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph with one single press of the push-piece. The various refined decorations of the movement – Côtes de Genève, circular graining, sunray finishing, circular satin finishing, polished bevels – are all visible through the crystal case back, paying homage to the collection that has been challenging limits for 30 years, nonstop. 

愛彼 Royal Oak Offshore 皇家橡樹離岸型系列限量黑色陶瓷計時碼錶,搭載最新 4401 自動上鏈一體式計時碼錶機芯。
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph houses the latest selfwinding chronograph movement – Calibre 4401.

Love of Time 

Continuing its brand spirit – the art of fusion – Hublot once again teams up with acclaimed French sculptor Richard Orlinski to present the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski. Perfectly blending the love for time and art into one, the novelties can be paired with either a titanium bracelet or a smooth black rubber strap. Both timepieces feature Orlinski’s signature multi-angular facets with structures highlighting sharpness. In matte titanium, the 41mm case houses a self-winding HUB1153 calibre and comes with a three-dimensional titanium bracelet – composed of 83 components – showcasing a distinctive angular link design that refracts light to emit a radiant glow. Comfortable without losing aesthetic, the micro-blasted titanium material softens the edge of the metal and exudes a sense of mystery. The matte black dial is adorned with metallic hour markers and dauphine-shape hands, while the artist’s minimalist and sleek signature codes can be found upon close inspection. By infusing contemporary art into haute horlogerie, a graceful sports watch that is one-of-a-kind is thus born. 

HUBLOT 經典融合 Orlinski 鈦金計時碼錶系列,各有鍊帶款和橡膠錶帶款。
HUBLOT Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski comes in either a titanium bracelet or rubber strap.

Mystical Profundity

To celebrate the timeless elegance of the Van Cleef & Arpels classic – Ludo bracelet – Ludo Secret introduces two new high jewelry watches crafted in innovative proportions, capturing the essence of the iconic collection. While rose gold is complemented by diamonds of pink sapphires to showcase the excellent artisanship of the renowned jewelry house, the intricate setting technique pays tribute to the exceptional traditions of high jewelry. In a serpent-like brick pattern, the meticulous ensemble recalls a belt, as in the original creation. Each piece is set by the hands of the maison’s gemologists to deliver a delicate and flexible design reminiscent of contemporary meshwork. Van Cleef & Arpels is also unveiling another ingenious creation inspired by the 1941 Ludo Hexagone Macaron secret watch. The dial is hidden behind a motif adorned with Mystery Set emeralds, a setting technique that highlights the dazzling and flawless color effect and sets itself as the ultimate testament to exquisite craftsmanship. Slightly rounded, the motif complements the diamond-studded curves of two concentric arcs, while the bracelet is composed of a meshwork of yellow-gold hexagons and embellished with star-set emeralds to add a touch of technicolor beauty. Mastering the intricacies of these refined novelties requires exceptional skills and expertise, which today, only a handful of gemologists and jewelers possess the secret to achieving such fine crafts in the high jewelry industry.