TEXT｜Coco Yang , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
適逢勒芒 24 小時耐力賽百年慶典，勞力士特地呈獻新款 Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 腕錶致敬非凡意義，自 2001 年擔任賽事指定時計便開啟深厚淵源，本次以象徵經典美學與出色技術性能的特別版宇宙計型迪通拿腕錶，頌揚賽車精神，採用 18K 白色黃金打造，搭配黑色 Cerachrom 陶質外圈，外圈邊緣飾有同樣18K 白色黃金的纖幼鑲邊，測速計外圈上的紅色陶質數字「100」，代表此經典賽事的一百週年紀念，實為莞爾巧思。錶面上設有多個計時盤，設計靈感源自勞力士傳統錶面，機芯則搭載 4132 型機芯，改良自 4131 型機芯，突破傳統的 12 小時計時機制， 可連續計時長達 24 小時，其配置 Chronergy 擒縱系統與 Paraflex 緩震裝置，並採用新穎飾面與裝飾，如夾板上綴飾的勞力士日內瓦波紋，重新演繹經典製錶飾面，非凡速度中仍可見證其傳奇身影。
以黃金比例為設計準則的 Reverso 翻轉系列腕錶，佈局和諧均衡，成為揮灑創意的畫布，如今積家推出 Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 翻轉系列超凡複雜工藝 179 型機芯腕錶，將第四代升級版多軸陀飛輪的卓越技術成就，結合出眾的藝術美學與珍稀工藝，將這款時計昇華至全新境界。搭載 Duoface 雙面雙時區機芯，於正、反兩面呈現截然意趣，正面沿用 Reverso 翻轉系列腕錶原型設計的裝飾藝術風格，縱橫交錯的纖巧金線格柵，於藍色漆面襯托下格外奪目，與漸變深藍漆面裝飾的時間顯示相互輝映。另以大膽柔美表現簇新面貌，可從 Reverso One Precious Colours 翻轉系列腕錶窺見一二，兩款引人注目的彩色款式，以裝飾精妙豐富的錶殼致敬裝飾藝術風格，當翻轉錶殼，隨即化身為一件精美的高級珠寶，微繪大明火琺瑯裝飾圖案以玫瑰金背景襯托藍黑色調，或以白金底色搭配深淺不一的綠色調，鑲嵌璀璨鑽石，營造深邃靈動的視覺效果，搭載積家 846 型手動上鏈機械機芯，由大工坊自主研發製作，秉承作品的完整性原則，其外觀美學與精密機械特色相得益彰。
兩枚獨一無二的 Les Cabinotiers 閣樓工匠腕錶，靈感取自十七世紀日本國寶級繪畫宗師俵屋宗達的代表畫作《風神雷神圖》，畫作中雷神手持鼓錘，凌空起舞；風神則手執風袋，騰躍雲霄。如今，由江詩丹頓的琺瑯大師和雕刻大師以精湛手工打造，將兩位神祗的靈動身姿再現錶盤，運用細線凹雕技藝刻畫不規則格紋，呈現啞光與亮面的微妙對比，營造金箔般光澤閃爍的裝飾效果，隨即進入微繪琺瑯的創作，勾勒出鮮明輪廓，經反覆燒製固色釉彩，整體工序耗時一百小時，盡顯細緻匠心。兩枚時計均搭載備受鐘錶愛好者及收藏家青睞的 1731 機芯，錶殼則以珠寶鑲嵌工藝精心裝飾，Thunder God 腕錶的錶殼上雕刻渦形紋，意味雷鳴滾滾而來，三問報時滑桿點綴六顆長階梯形切割紅寶石，象徵閃電的攝人威力；Wind God 腕錶錶殼飾以相似的凹雕紋飾，宛如風中遊雲，滑桿上鑲嵌六顆長階梯形切割沙弗萊石，寓意活躍的氣流，猶如藝術品的精巧細節，值得細細品玩。
為展現復古美學與現代工藝的精彩交融，Gucci 嶄新推出 Gucci 25H 系列腕錶，採用一貫流線型的輪廓、超薄外形和俐落的雕刻線條特色，映照著品牌的製錶技藝與敘事視角，兩款精美的 40 毫米自動腕錶採用迷人的藍色錶盤，皆搭載自製機芯 GG727.25A，一款以不鏽鋼錶殼、黃金錶圈搭配相稱的深藍色鱷魚皮錶帶，另一款則是不鏽鋼錶殼搭配五排鍊金屬鍊帶，從一體成形的錶帶、錶冠及錶圈至對比鮮明的拋光修飾等細節，使人聯想起當代建築的簡練風格，服貼的錶身設計也為日常添入時髦品味。另一亮點則為 Gucci 石英腕錶首度搭配彩色皮革錶款，以 4 毫米超薄錶殼打造的 34 及 38 毫米石英錶款，其不鏽鋼鍍黃金錶殼搭配金色黃銅錶面，可選擇熱情四溢的紅色皮革菱格紋錶帶或散發高雅氣息的白色皮革菱格紋錶帶；不鏽鋼鍍錶殼搭配銀色錶盤，選用洗鍊的黑色皮革菱格紋錶帶，打造別樹一幟的優雅風範。
Haute Horlogerie undoubtedly serves as the perfect reminder to always remember where one’s blessings come from. For centuries, master artisans have dedicated their efforts to create ingenious works of art that bridge watchmaking and aesthetics together as one. An embodiment of precision and traditions, they discover beauty in the minutest details and express it through every passing second.
In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race, Rolex presents a brand new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona to pay tribute to the special bond shared between the two. As the official timepiece of the race since 2001, this time, the Swiss watchmaker honors the spirit of racing with a special edition Cosmograph Daytona – a symbol of classic beauty and outstanding technical performance. Crafted in 18-kt white gold, this new watch sports a Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic edged with a thin band of the same metal as the middle case. On the tachymetric scale, the number ‘100’ is visible in red ceramic, as it evokes the legendary race’s centenary. The dial also comes with several white counters whose graphic design is inspired by traditional Rolex dials. Meanwhile, the timepiece houses a reworked version of Calibre 4131, Calibre 4132, which allows the hours to be counted over 24 hours instead of the usual 12. This exclusive movement incorporates the Chronergy escapement and Paraflex shock absorbers and features innovative decorations, such as the bridges adorned with Rolex Côtes de Genève, reinterpreting the timeless classic while preserving its legendary presence even amidst the extraordinary speed.
Designed according to the Golden Ratio, the Reverso is known for its harmonious proportions and as a canvas for artistic expression. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 that perfectly combines the technical tour-de-force of the fourth-evolution multi-axis tourbillon with the finest aesthetics and rarest artisanship, elevating this masterpiece to a whole new level. Housed with a double-sided Duoface movement, this Reverso plays around with two distinct personalities. The front dial embodies the original Reverso design inspired by the Art Deco period and features a fine lattice of golden lines that contrasts with the blue lacquer background, perfectly complementing the deep blue gradient lacquer time display. Furthermore, bold but also with a gentle beauty, the Reverso One Precious Colours offers a fresh look that comes in two color variations. These novelties feature a richly decorated case that pays direct tribute to Art Deco and instantly transform into pieces of high jewelry after turning the swiveling case over. Executed in miniature-painted grand feu enamel, the Art-Deco inspired geometric patterns are presented in shades of blue with black on a pink gold background, or in different hues of green on a white gold background. The timepieces are set with brilliant diamonds to create an optical illusion of depth and movement. Aligned with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philosophy of product integrity, this Reverso is powered by the hand-wound Calibre 846, which was developed and produced entirely within the Manufacture, and showcases a perfect interplay of exquisite aesthetics and mechanical excellence.
Issued in single-piece editions, the two distinctive Les Cabinotiers draw inspiration from The Gods of Wind and Thunder, an artwork by 17th-century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu. In the painting, Raijin the Thunder God wields his hammer as he dances in mid-air, while Fujin the Wind God grasps his wind bag and leaps through the clouds. Now, through the exquisite craftsmanship of the skilled enameller and engravers at Vacheron Constantin, the dynamic silhouettes of the gods are brought to life on the dial. First, the dial is adorned with intaglio-type fine line engravings to create an irregular checkered pattern that highlights a subtle interplay of matte and glossy textures and presents decorations evoking a gold-leaf illusion. The process then moves on to miniature enamel painting, where the distinct contours are outlined and fired in the kiln repeatedly to set the colors in place, a process that takes about a hundred hours to showcase its astonishing level of detail. Both timepieces come with the in-house Calibre 1731, a movement favored by watch lovers and collectors, and cases carefully adorned with precious jewels. The Thunder watch is engraved with volutes symbolizing waves of thunder, while its lug is embellished with six baguette-cut rubies emblematic of the captivating power of lightning. Similar intaglio motifs can be found on the Wind watch representing the filaments of clouds blowing the wind. The slide piece is set with six baguette-cut tsavorites as a tribute to the vitality of air currents, an intricate detail, among many others, that is reminiscent of artworks and deserves to be admired with great attention.
To showcase the splendid fusion of vintage aesthetics and contemporary craftsmanship, Gucci introduces new additions to the Gucci 25H collection that features a streamlined silhouette, an ultra-thin profile and sleek engraved lines. A testament to the House’s watchmaking expertise and narrative, two exquisite 40mm automatic timepieces feature captivating blue dials and the in-house GG727.25A movement. One model comes with a stainless steel multi-layered case and a yellow gold bezel complemented by blue alligator strap, while the other is equipped with a stainless steel case and a five link stainless steel bracelet. From its strap, crown, bezel to the contrasting polished finishes, everything evokes the minimalist style and sleek forms of contemporary architecture, as the comfortable design also adds chicness to everyday wear. Another highlight is the debut of Gucci quartz watches paired with colored leather straps. With a 4mm ultra-thin case and offered in 34mm or 38mm, the gold-tone brass dial edition, which comes with a stainless steel, gold-plated case, can be paired with either a red leather strap evoking passion or an elegant white leather strap. Meanwhile, the silver brass dial option features a stainless steel, gold-plated case and a black leather strap with diamond patterns, creating a distinctive and sophisticated style.