TEXT｜Elva Liu , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
Pharrell Williams執掌的首個之作！Louis Vuitton 2024 春夏男裝系列圍繞著太陽運行，Pharrell Williams 將太陽視為普世的生命之源，是迷途羔羊的方向。品牌縮寫 LV 變成 LVERS 新文化的象徵，大到服飾採用的技術和材料，小至鈕扣、鉚釘和拉鍊，傳達溫暖、幸福和歡迎基礎上的精神狀態。這一季男裝以西裝為主軸，結合不同的輪廓呈現，也許是紙醉金迷或紈絝子弟的態度，藉由工坊技術加以放大，Damier 重新與迷彩融合出全新 Damoflage 圖案，將傳統與現代重新轉換，運動服和針織品也加上珍珠刺繡或 Monogram 圖案。太陽的概念也藉由飾品再次體現，寶石、金屬元素、水晶跟珍珠搭配的耀眼奪目，賦予全新的潮流樣貌。
穿梭在 FENDI Factory 皮件工廠光線明媚的中庭，這一季FENDI 2024男裝系列和時裝秀本身是對加工過程的後設元素進行反思，優雅風格貫穿整個系列，運用精緻成熟的製衣工藝來頌揚企業工匠原型，各種不同比例，從縮小的羅紋緊身背心到高腰拉鍊西裝褲，以及扣到肘部的及膝正裝襯衫。從焦赭色和赤土色到深靛藍色，一層又一層的礦物色調瀰漫著鼠尾草綠、石灰石和白堊的柔和霧霾，讓人想起托斯卡尼的景色，包括輕薄的夏季羊毛和蕁麻纖維針織品等衣衫，同樣採用金合歡、杜松、指甲花和罌粟的植物性染料來染色，為這季春夏增添一抹優雅活力。
素淨的外觀洋溢古典主義色彩，緊抱當時的時代精神，Saint Laurent 2024春夏男裝選擇這座以玻璃和鋼材構築的藝術殿堂，以自由奔放的手法融和傳統的二元性別元素，展現Saint Laurent衣櫥多元折衷的蛻變，逾越性別規範，再一次宣示新時代的降臨。繼續主打俐落線條，結構出乎意料地輕巧，寬鬆的上身搭配高腰闊褲；西裝外套襯以誇張的肩線，或採露肩設計，向品牌的昔日致意，卻絲毫不帶戀舊情結。簡潔的縐褶及呈現嶄新比例的圓點和豹紋印花，為熟悉的創作主題鍍上強烈個性，大膽混搭的條紋顛覆和諧的概念。絲綢薄紗等高訂面料結合男裝風格，打破傳統的框架。
Bold New Perspectives: SS24 Menswear Fashion Week
A single light source illuminates the entire space, like dusk rising in the center of the city, it becomes a symbol of renewal and the ever-changing cycle of season.
When Old Meets New
Alas, Pharrell Williams’s debut collection is here! The Louis Vuitton SS24 menswear collection revolves around the movement of the sun, as Williams views the sun as a unifying source of life, the guidance for lost souls in the universe. A symbol of a new cultural identity, the letters LV are transformed into LVERS. From the techniques and materials used creating the garments to the little details of buttons, studs and zippers, everything conveys a welcoming spirit of warmth and happiness. This latest collection focuses on suits, presented in different silhouettes that either embody the extravagance of luxury or the aloof attitude of the privileged. Through the artisanship of the Atelier, the new Damoflage splices Damier patterns with camo to bridge tradition with modernity. Sportswear and knitwear are embellished with pearl embroidery or the signature Monogram, while the concept of the sun can be found in the accessories, where gemstones, metallic elements, crystals and pearls present a brand new facade for the upcoming season.
Touch of Elegance
Moving through the bright courtyard of FENDI Factory, the FENDI SS24 menswear and runway reflect on the process of craftsmanship. While elegance permeates the entire collection, the skilled artisans are celebrated through the refined and mature art of tailoring. Various proportions are explored, from fitted ribbed tank tops, high-waisted zippered trousers, to knee-length blouses with buttoned cuffs. Shades of burnt umber, terracotta and deep indigo blue are complemented by layers of mineral tones – sage, limestone, chalk – to evoke the landscapes of Tuscany. Lightweight summer wool and linen knits take on pigments of acacia, juniper, henna and poppy, all created while using plant-based dyes – the arriving spring and summer seasons are imbued with a touch of elegant vitality.
Packed with clean aesthetics and infused with classical colors, the Saint Laurent SS24 menswear collection embraces the spirit of time and chooses the artistic temple built with glass and steel as its show venue. It skillfully blends the freedom of expression with traditional elements of gender binaries to showcase the diverse and eclectic transformation of the Saint Laurent wardrobe. As gender norms are transcended, a new era finally arrives. The collection continues to emphasize sharp lines, but this time offering lightweight structures. Oversized tops are paired with high-waisted pants pleated at the ankle and blazers feature exaggerated shoulder lines or off-the-shoulder design, a subtle nod to the brand’s history without being overly sentimental. Clean pleats, polka dots in new proportions and leopard prints imbue familiar themes with a strong personality, while a bold mixture of striped patterns breaks the concept of harmony. Even luxurious fabrics such as silk and chiffon are incorporated into menswear designs, successfully breaking the boundaries of tradition.