TEXT｜Elva Liu , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
一座人間仙境般的Isola Bella 美麗島，被Lake Maggiore 馬焦雷湖包圍，幾個世紀以來一直流傳著博羅梅歐家族的傳奇故事。路易威登2024 早春系列降臨在這座水上宮殿，神秘的花園在蓊鬱茂盛的枝葉中綻放，宛如一艘被植物簇擁的巨大郵輪，看似矛盾的風格實則令人激動且愉悅，激發出魔幻般的風格詮釋。Nicolas Ghesquière 再度大膽創新服裝的輪廓與搭配度，與時俱進地再進化，把鰭狀般的衣領、水滴珠飾、巴洛克風格的頭飾、建築廓形的雪紡長禮服、橡膠材質潛水衣與宮廷長袍搭配，彼此相互襯托與輝映，在熟悉和玄幻之間來回穿梭，平凡走向非凡。而秀場上出現美人魚禮服的絕美晚裝、如海洋珊瑚、魚鱗、湖水波光的細節和潛水面料裝束，宛如這座島嶼不可思議般的存在。
一段延時攝影短片，捕捉了都市生活的晝夜變幻，路上行人如織擦肩而過、駐足觀望，從遛狗的人到快遞送貨員，人行道上撿起硬幣或踏著滑板飛馳而過，形形色色的城市居民面對著陽光普照的巴黎晴空，突如其來的大雨讓步調緩慢了下來，Balenciaga 春季 24 Capital B 系列捕捉巴黎繁忙而優雅的日常，觀察社會百態後的細緻詮釋，以此回歸設計和靈感初衷，誰說巴黎街頭不能化身秀場？像是連帽衫採用格紋襯裡，映射出繁忙的都市生活，而精剪服飾則採用俐落高級的剪裁和奢華稀有的羊毛質料 ; 晚裝採用輕薄的平紋衝浪服材質或科技縐紗紡織品織造而成， Biker 機車靴煥然一新成為連褲版本，更加靈活的同時，呈現出近乎高訂設計的完美色澤。
以優雅拓展從容態度邊界，加州視角詮釋法式格調，先鋒線條盡展銳利氣場。2024年春季GIVENCHY 創意總監 Matthew M. Williams 延續了高級訂製款注重的優雅線條，女裝針織連衣裙上點綴了蕾絲水晶，帶來整體強烈的視覺效果；男裝則重塑魅力，優雅奢華和正式感與時尚必備單品相結合。晚禮服融入龐克元素，營造出新鮮張力，柔軟的運動衫面料賦予輕鬆優雅的工裝格調。本季設計靈感來自典藏資料，將 Hubert de Givenchy大師的經典元素帶入新的領域，重新演繹像雪豹圖案、詮釋褶皺技巧，並將創新材料結合輕鬆奢華的基本款式中。
From the daily hustle and bustle, calm tranquility, elegant interpretations to the unrestrained freedom, the early spring season has brought upon some transformation, ones that open up all the possibilities for our upcoming vacations.
Tales of the Secret Island
Situated in the middle of Lake Maggiore, Isola Bella – the island that has been the centuries-long residence of the legendary Borromeo family – was where the Louis Vuitton 2024 Cruise show took place. The collection arrived at the palace on water, a place where mysterious gardens come to full bloom among the lush foliage. Like a massive cruise embraced by mother nature, the clashing styles were exciting and delightful, as they evoked a rather magical interpretation of fashion. Nicolas Ghesquière once again took his designs to the next level with bold, innovative silhouettes and approaches. From collars shaped like fins, water droplet embellishments, baroque headgears, sculptural chiffon gowns, rubber material wetsuits, to regal robes, everything was a reflection of one another as they navigated between the familiar and the fantastical, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary. The recurring water-centric elements – corals, fish scales, wave details, scuba materials – and the breathtaking mermaid evening gown that closed the show created a mesmerizing allure akin to the inexplicable existence of the opulent island.
Capturing Daily Elegance
From pedestrians making their way along the pavement, dog walkers, couriers rushing to deliver parcels, people retrieving coins or zooming by on scooters, city dwellers soaking up the warm Paris sun, to the downpour that interrupts the brisk pace, the ever-changing rhythm of urban life is captured through a time-lapse short film. Offering a refined interpretation after close observation, Balenciaga unveiled its spring 2024 collection titled “Capital B” that captured the bustling yet elegant façade in Paris and focused on the essence of design and inspiration – who says the streets of Paris can’t be transformed into a runway show? Hoodies with plaid linings reflected the density of city life, while garments boasted sleek tailoring and luxury rare wool fabrics. Eveningwear was reinterpreted through lightweight surfer jerseys or technical crêpe textiles and a pair of Biker Boots was transformed into a Pantashoe to highlight mobility and showcase a perfect design that is almost couture.
Graceful French Styles
Expanding the boundaries of elegance and interpreting French style through a Californian perspective, Givenchy’s 2024 Resort collection took the stage with avant-garde silhouettes that exude precision. Creative director Matthew M. Williams continued his focus on the elegant lines used in haute couture by adorning knit dresses with lace and crystals, presenting a visual effect that was striking and strong. For menswear, he redefined charm by combining essential pieces that were a combination of refinement, luxury and formality. Evening gowns were incorporated with punk elements to present a fresh tension, while soft athletic garments were imbued with a relaxed but elegant workwear aesthetic. Drawing inspiration from brand archives, the collection brought Hubert de Givenchy signatures into brand new territory, reworking the snow leopard motif, revisiting draping techniques and bringing an innovative mix of materials to relaxed luxury essentials.