TEXT｜Cloe Chan , TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
秋冬時尚極簡主義體現了精緻簡約感，簡潔的線條、流暢的輪廓，營造出一種低調的美感。而在這一季Prada 通過對 「基礎款」的展現，進一步探索時尚的內核，由 Miuccia Prada 和 Raf Simons 聯合呈現的2023 秋冬系列重新定義、重新思考，最終重新發現美的概念。
Prada 在本季度的圖案花型通過柔和多變的手繪手法展示，粉色的運用打破本季度商務女裝的強勢，紅色系單品也呈現了驚人的視覺感受，而 Dior 在這一季選擇的花卉圖案就像被重新詮釋，已斑駁的圖案賦予面料生命和柔順感，模糊輪廓營造出抽象效果。花紋圖案捕捉了季節的精髓，為衣櫥增添了深度和特色，同時也擁抱了不斷變化的風景。
這一季的秋冬時裝引入了一種令人著迷的性別模糊趨勢。 Bottega Veneta 2023 秋冬系列於北京紅磚美術館重現了「義大利三部曲」終章，在 Matthieu Blazy 職掌下的時裝系列演繹出了更多可能，首先是無明顯性別界限的穿搭，女性時尚不再是精緻「包裹」下華而不實的工藝品，而是鮮活流動的舒適本體，透過流暢的輪廓、中性的色調和雌雄同體的裁剪交織在一起，打造出一個真正具有包容性的衣櫥。
從各個時尚品牌2023秋冬系列發布來看，男裝和女裝之間的界線越來越不明顯，男裝越來越女性化，如緊身裙、連身裙；女裝越來越男性化，如各式各樣的 Oversize 的寬肩西裝，同樣的款式男女皆可穿。這種模糊性別的方法促進了對自我表達的讚美，邀請人們不受束縛地探索時尚。
秋冬格紋元素是舒適精緻的永恆象徵。2023 秋冬系列是英國設計師 Daniel Lee 為 Burberry 帶來的首個系列，延續了 Daniel 自身的風格之外，也為了這個百年品牌帶來了全新語言。在這一季中他也運用了亮麗色彩結合經典格紋為品牌注入了新活力。
Autumn Elegance | AW23 Trend Report
Like a conversation that transcends time and space, trends and elements are interpreted through a fashion language that is dreamy and enchanting.
Concept of Minimalism
The autumn-winter fashion often embodies the essence of minimalism that showcases a refined simplicity through clean lines and fluid silhouettes, further creating a sense of understated beauty. This season, Prada delves into the core of fashion by exploring basic styles from brand archives. A collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the AW23 collection redefines, reworks and eventually rediscovers the concept of beauty.
Major brands have also chosen to return to the essence of clothing in terms of creative presentation. Through a series of designs that plays around with tailoring and deconstructing conventional styles, these runway looks, predominantly following a minimalist approach, have become the trendsetters of the season. As minimalism continues to showcase refined and confident attire, it not only highlights the idea of “less is more,” but also exudes an enduring charm for the brisk weather.
Patterned designs never fail to evoke people’s attraction towards the season of autumn and winter. Whether applied in large areas or experimented in smaller doses, this fall, printed patterns come to full bloom, as they bring a sense of nostalgic romance that feels secure and comfortable. In the upcoming collections, floral and botanical patterns can be found on dresses and blouses, all blooming with rich, saturated hues.
For the 2023 autumn-winter season, Prada showcases its floral patterns through soft and versatile hand-painted techniques. The use of the color pink breaks the dominance of female business attires, while accessories in shades of red present a stunning and impacting visual. On the other hand, Dior’s choice of floral patterns feels more like a reinterpretation, with weathered totems breathing life and fluidity to the fabric and blurry contours creating an abstract effect. Capturing the essence of the season, patterned designs not only add depth and character to the womenswear wardrobe but also embraces the ever-changing versatility of natural landscapes.
This year’s fall-winter fashion introduces a captivating gender-neutral trend. For the 2023 winter season, Bottega Veneta staged its show at the Red Brick Art Museum in Beijing, marking the final chapter of a trilogy dedicated to “Italia.” Under the direction of Matthieu Blazy, the ready-to-wear collection explores more possibilities, starting with designs that blur traditional gender boundaries. The latest line no longer showcases womenswear as decorations of superficial artisanship, instead, it becomes a vibrant, fluid embodiment of comfort. Through flowing silhouettes, neutral tones and androgynous tailoring, a truly all-inclusive wardrobe is built, one that embraces diversity and universality.
Looking at the major fashion houses’ AW23 collections, it isn’t hard to notice the line between menswear and womenswear is getting blurry – the former is becoming more feminine and featuring bodycon dresses and skirts, while the latter is growing more masculine by incorporating a variety of oversized blazers with broad shoulders and can be worn by both genders. An encouragement of self-expression, this gender-fluid approach is inviting people to explore fashion without any constraints or limitations.
Plaids are timeless symbols of comfort and sophistication for autumn and winter. The AW23 collection marks British designer Daniel Lee’s debut series for Burberry. While continuing his own distinctive style, Lee has also introduced a brand new fashion language for the century-old house through infusing the classic plaid patterns with vibrant colors to bring vitality and energy to this season.
From well-tailored coats to oversized scarves, the classic and versatile plaid patterns can also be found among major brands. The multifaceted charm of the signature print lies in its ability to seamlessly transition between casual and formal occasion, always adding a touch of traditional allure to any outfit. Whether it’s dresses, pants or accessories, plaid never fails to incorporate classic beauty and comfort into fashion. Trends can change within a second, and yet, there are always elements that can firmly hold their place and remain timeless – plaid is one of them, something that can exude charm in all kinds of way, retro or elegant, and stay in our wardrobe with confidence that it will endure the passing of time.