TEXT｜Lynn Tan, Amy Liu, Annie Lu 。 TRANSLATION | Eugenia Yang
Radiant Beauty, Vibrant Life
Amidst the crisp autumn air, the radiant sunlight still graces the sky, flowers bloom with colorful beauty as they sway against the wind and the creatures of nature grasp on to the end of the season. Let us, before the weather turns wintry, seize the remaining vitality and explore the wonders of the earth.
寶詩龍以大自然的野性之美作為靈感泉源，創作出Plume de Paon孔雀羽毛系列，為模擬最具真實感的孔雀羽毛系列作品，珠寶工坊使用特殊系統鉸接，使每根細節能夠自由擺動，重現羽毛的柔軟動態，猶如空氣般自由。考慮到作品佩戴時的輕盈感受，材質運用比黃金輕3倍的鈦金屬材質，並經過「鏤空技術」減輕珠寶重量，提升寶石的透光性，賦予作品輕盈感。最後，再將鈦金屬經過陽極氧化處理，呈現出藍綠色漸變效果，並朝端部逐漸消失，藍綠色的光芒中彷彿孔雀翩翩起舞。
Drawing inspiration from the untamed beauty of nature, Boucheron presents the Plume de Paon collection, a series that recreates the most realistic peacock feathers in forms of jewelry. Through a special system, the Maison assembles the diamonds in a specific way, allowing each detail to move with suppleness and recreate the soft dynamics of feathers flowing gracefully like air. Aiming to create a lightweight sensation for wearers, artisans choose to use titanium as the main material, which is three times lighter than gold, and incorporate a hollowing technique to reduce the weight of the jewelry. The translucency of the gemstones are enhanced to imbue the pieces with an airy quality. Finally, the titanium undergoes anodization to create a gradient of blue and green hues that fade towards the tip, as if a peacock is dancing in the iridescent blue-green glow.
In this brand new collection, Boucheron revisits the classic Point d’Interrogation necklace. Through the lightness of titanium and platinum, along with exquisite metalwork, the soft lines showcase the dynamic beauty of peacock feathers. Strands of feather are set with diamonds, sapphires, tanzanite and tsavorites to capture the radiance of peacock wings. The shimmering gemstones, with their blue luminescence, gracefully display the elegance of a peacock through each and every gesture, exuding a sense of agile beauty. From the same collection, the white gold pavé diamond earrings can be worn individually or as a pair, adding a touch of asymmetric beauty inspired by the natural world. Like the untamed spirit of natural creativity, the various ways embody a spirit of freedom, as the peacock feathers adorning the earlobes come to life in the gentle breeze with vitality and livelihood.
寶格麗的花朵珠寶自成一格，雖然靈感繆思來自於自然界的花朵，但不以拷貝花的樣貌為設計初衷。而是透過幾何線條的鋪陳，或是以彩色寶石的鑲嵌組成，呈現出一朵花純然天真、可愛清麗的樣貌。例如在Eden the Garden of Wonders系列之中，以品牌經典系列Divas’Dream扇形輪廓為底，在其上鑲嵌彩色寶石，以梨形切割粉紅剛玉為花瓣、圓形切割紅寶石為花蕊，在項鍊作品與耳環作品上開展一朵花的容顏。同樣是在蛇形主題珠寶當中自成一格的Serpenti系列，面世75 週年以來不斷在細處做設計變化。新款Mediterranean Sapphire Serpenti 地中海藍寶石靈蛇頂級藍寶石與鑽石項鍊，以9 顆斯里蘭卡總計約40.81 克拉的藍寶石，象徵蛇身鱗片，再垂墜著由80 顆橢圓形藍寶石圓珠搭配白鑽串成的吊墜流蘇，展現靈動之蛇的輕盈活力。
Bvlgari’s floral jewelry is a unique expression of creativity. Though it is inspired by the flowers of the natural world, the designs do not directly replicate the exact appearances of them. Instead, the pieces utilize geometric lines and arrangements of colored gemstones to present flowers in their pure, innocent and charming form. For instance, in the Eden the Garden of Wonders collection, the fan-shaped motif of the brand classic Divas’ Dream serves as the foundation of the jewelry pieces, which are further embellished with gemstones of various colors. Pear-cut pink sapphires recreate the petals, while round-cut rubies come together as pistils, presenting the visage of a flower in bloom through necklaces and earrings. In a similar way, the Serpenti collection has earned its fame among serpent-themes jewelries and has continued to offer new changes in detail over its 75-year history. In top-quality blue sapphire and diamonds, the new Mediterranean Sapphire Serpenti necklace is adorned with nine sapphires originating in Sri Lanka, totaling 40.81 carats, and complemented by fringes of 80 oval-cut blue sapphire beads and white diamonds, embodying the vibrant spirit of the agile creature.
卡地亞珠寶之所以能被一眼辨出，無非是品牌秉持多年的風格所造就而成，無論是幾何元素、簡約線條、美洲豹設計，都是讓人難以忘懷的經典形象，基於創辦人路易・卡地亞的喜好，許多絕美之作也都帶有不少穆斯林藝術的氣息。近期在卡地亞Markers of Style頂級珠寶展上亮相的Ocelle蛋白石祖母綠項鍊，其猶如羽毛般交纏的設計更是吸引了藏家、珠寶愛好者們的注視，這件迷人之作除了是鑲嵌蛋白石、鑽石以及21.8克拉的祖母綠項鍊外，更能作為可拆式胸針配戴；另外也有許多卡地亞標誌性作品是不能錯過的，像是Panthère Lagune蛋白石藍寶串珠手環，主角為鑲有縞瑪瑙、鑽石與藍寶石斑紋的美洲豹，安靜待在一顆45.15克拉的澳洲蛋白石上休憩，整體形象看似慵懶，但仔細觀察它的祖母綠雙眼，卻可以感受到其強大威嚴，令人懾服。
Cartier’s jewelry is instantly recognizable for the style the brand has established and upheld for countless years. From geometric elements, minimalist lines, to the panther, every feature becomes a classic attribute that is hard to forget. Many of these exquisite pieces also carry Islamic artistic roots, which is something Louis Cartier, founder of Cartier, was very fond of. Recently, at the Markers of Style high jewelry exhibition, the House unveils the Ocelle emerald opal necklace, a charming piece that garnered the attention of collectors and jewelry enthusiasts for its feather-like design. The captivating novelty is not only adorned with opals, diamonds and a 21.8 carat emerald, but can also be worn as a detachable brooch. There are several iconic Cartier pieces that cannot be missed, one being the Panthère Lagune opal and blue sapphire bead bracelet. The bracelet showcases a panther, adorned with onyx, diamond and blue sapphires, resting quietly on a 45.15 carat Australian opal. While the overall image may appear relaxed, a closer look into its emerald eyes reveals its powerful and majestic presence, leaving the inspector in awe.
雛菊的典雅與昆蟲的靈動，在戴美安妮Damiani瓦倫薩金匠純手工打造的細緻工藝之下，顯得更為明燦動人。串接80顆明淨Akoya珍珠的DAMIANI Masterpiece Margherita高級訂製珠寶珍稀之花雛菊手環，中央綻放著由小而大向上堆疊的7朵鑽石雛菊花朵，層次之間錯落有致，也讓鑽光的閃爍更加躍動。Damiani的動物主題珠寶也總是靈動生姿，Animalia時尚動物園系列彩鑽蝴蝶戒指，能夠隨佩戴者手指閉合而舞動雙翅。這特別的裝置是在兩個戒指環中間有一個推桿，當手指閉合的時候，可以連動蝴蝶的骨架活動機關，讓蝴蝶的翅膀擺動。同系列蜘蛛彩鑽戒指也會隱約擺動，這是由一系列逐漸轉細的鑲爪順列，同時在內部裝載金屬彈簧，最終讓蜘蛛的觸手能夠隨著手指動作而彎曲與伸展，透過這精湛的金工表現出靈動的生命力。
The elegant daisies and agile insects, through the meticulous craftsmanship of Damiani Valenza goldsmiths, shine with extra radiance. Adorned with 80 pristine Akoya pearls, the Damiani Masterpiece Margherita High Jewelry bracelet glistens with seven diamond daisies stacked in different sizes in the center, an arrangement creating a captivating sense of depth that enhances the brilliance of the diamonds. The animal-themed jewelry of the Italian jewelry house also exude a lively charm. From the Animalia collection, the butterfly ring with multi-colored diamonds flutters its wings along with the wearer’s finger movement. The novelty comes to life thanks to an incredible mechanism that connects the opening and closing of the finger with a rod, which triggers the butterfly’s skeletal movement and allows its wings to move. Similarly, the spider ring from the same collection also moves along with the wearer. Its long, slender legs – composed of a sequence of rising prongs – house a metal spring, enabling the tentacle structure to bend and stretch in sync with finger movements and conveys a sense of dynamic vitality through the impeccable goldsmith techniques.
Chaumet作為拿破崙的皇室御用珠寶品牌，拿破崙的摯愛約瑟芬皇后也成為品牌的創作謬斯，她對植物學、花草植栽的濃厚喜愛，也成為Chaumet珠寶的重要靈感之一，如今世家延續約瑟芬的興趣，以Le Jardin de Chaumet（Chaumet的花園）為題，在世界展出多件以精湛工藝所製作的珠寶，並透過「樹林與灌叢」、「遼闊原野」、「花團錦簇」以及「花花世界」四個主題，帶領藏家親身感受法式花園的無窮生機。此次的觀展重點作品Écorce白楊樹紋項鍊，更是選擇以台灣作為初次亮相的首站。世家工匠除了運用鑽石鉸接組合讓白楊樹的樹紋條條分明外，還在中間鑲嵌一顆50.61克拉的澳洲黑蛋白石，石上散發的七色虹彩頗具神秘氣息。
Messengers of Love
As the royal jeweler of Napoleon, Chaumet shares a history with the beloved Empress Joséphine, who serves as the jewelry house’s timeless muse. Her passion for botany and florals have become a continuing source of inspiration for Chaumet when it comes to creating jewelry pieces. Titled Le Jardin de Chaumet, the collection presents exquisite pieces crafted with exceptional craftsmanship from around the world and is divided into four chapters – Woods and Undergrowth, Fields, Flowers, Bouquets of the World – to offer collectors to experience, up close, the endless vitality hidden within French gardens. A highlighted piece of the exhibition is the Écorce Bark necklace, which made its debut in Taiwan. Chaumet artisans skillfully utilize diamonds to create the distinct patterns of the white poplar bark, with a 50.61 carat Australian opal set in the center that radiates with the mysterious seven-color rainbow.
Delving deeper into the garden, the lush pink irises, a symbol of the love shared between Joséphine and Napoleon, are in full bloom. From the four-piece Iris set, the necklace features a 24.25 carat cushion-cut pink spinel centerpiece complemented by pink spinels and padparadscha sapphire petals, perfectly capturing the delicate contours and color variations of the flower. Additionally, the iris pendant can be detached and worn as a brooch separately, adding a clever touch to the art piece.
深不可測的大海是一切生命的起源，於是，人們對於海洋充滿敬畏與讚頌，邁向130周年、以養殖珍珠奠基頂級珠寶殿堂的Mikimoto，在全新《Praise to the Sea》頂級珠寶系列名清晰明瞭地傳遞出設計初衷，便是對於大海的的讚頌。一款描繪著一對藍鯨親子的項鍊，彷彿是對於生命的傳承，再更細觀欣賞項鍊的景鋪陳，以彩寶為魚身、金質為魚尾的繽紛小魚們成群結隊與藍鯨一同悠游。在以綠碧璽主石，18K白金、碧璽、藍寶石、海水藍寶石、石榴石、鑽石，在水中打造一場彩色的遊行隊伍。另一款設計靈感源於「棘螺」的胸針，在外側打造精緻的複雜螺殼並鑲嵌鑽石，再以丹泉石、藍寶石、尖晶石及鑽石裝飾螺殼的內部，主視覺的深藍色調精彩地演繹著大海的深邃與靜謐。
Ode to the Ocean
The bounteous sea, the origin of all life, has always been a source of awe and reverence. In celebration of its 130th anniversary, Mikimoto, the renowned pearl cultivator and top-tier jewelry house, presents the Praise to the Sea High Jewelry collection to pay its tribute to the sea. The series offers a necklace portraying a pair of blue whales, symbolizing the continuity of life. Upon closer look, the art piece reveals a lively scene with a school of colorful fish – bodies depicted by colored gemstones and tails in gold – swimming alongside the blue whales. Together, the green tourmaline centerpiece and the surrounding 18-kt white gold, tourmaline, sapphire, aquamarine, garnet and diamond create a marching band of aquatic hues. Also from the same collection, a brooch draws inspiration from the conch. On the outside, the exquisite and intricate shell is adorned with diamonds, while on the inside, the shell is adorned with tanzanite, blue sapphire, spinel and diamonds. The deep blue hues of the arrangement beautifully capture the depth and tranquility of the ocean.
Tiffany & Co. 最富傳奇色彩的珠寶作品「石上鳥胸針」之所以誕生於世，源於珠寶設計大師 Jean Schlumberger 與鳳頭鸚鵡的美麗邂逅，創作靈感因此應運而生，其不單是讓小鳥型態更加活靈活現，也使它的美態永恆的存在，且更加純粹；本季Tiffany & Co.決定重譯大師風華，推出兩款分別以44克拉銅鋰碧璽與44克拉紫水晶為焦點的石上鳥胸針，搭配上各式豔麗寶石作為裝飾，為整件作品增色不少，與以往不同的是此次小鳥的頭部首次由珍珠製成，富饒高潔、溫潤之氣。Jean Schlumberger除了以獨到眼光描繪天上鳥兒矗立於石上的景象外，他對於海洋生物也有自己的一番見解，Tiffany & Co.為了致敬大師，在今夏推出全新Blue Book系列，尤其是系列中的「海岩星韻」透過藍色尖晶石、珍珠交織而成，刻畫出海星攀岩的奇幻魅力，並輔大量鑽石為點綴，整體視覺效果也更加靈動。
Azure Seas, Blue Skies
The creation of the legendary Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock brooch can be traced back to the beautiful encounter between jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger and cockatoos. With the agile creature in mind, he aspired to make the bird come to life through his designs and allow its pure beauty to be preserved in time. This season, Tiffany & Co. decides to reinterpret the master’s brilliance by introducing two new versions of the Bird on a Rock brooch – one featuring a 44 carat green cuprian elbaite tourmaline and the other, a 44 carat amethyst – with each adorned with various colorful gemstones to enhance its vibrancy. What sets these pieces apart from previous versions is that, for the first time, the head of the cockatoo is crafted in pearls to add a touch of opulence, purity and warmth. Besides portraying birds perched on rocks with his unique perspective, Schlumberger also has a special eye for interpreting marine life. A tribute to the legendary designer, Tiffany & Co. introduces a new Blue Book collection this summer. A noteworthy piece, the Starfish necklace capture the enchanting charm of the marine creature through blue spinel, Akoya pearls and pearls to elevate the overall visual effect by making it more dynamic and captivating.
對於結合自然與詩意，梵克雅寶總能神來一筆便揮灑出一枚大作。在全新頂級珠寶系列Le Grand Tour當中一款Étoile des glaciers胸針，結合了詩人的思緒與璀璨的詩意。作品以喬治•桑（George Sand）筆下所描繪阿爾卑斯山脈的冬日為概念的基底，透過胸針重現阿爾卑斯山珍稀的雪絨花。花朵上鑲嵌著圓形、梨形、方形和馬眼形等各種花式切割鑽石，在層次堆疊之中，展現雪絨花盛開時細密絨毛的純白花瓣。再有濃郁黃鑽、藍色藍寶石的點綴鑲嵌，演繹花朵綻放的繽紛璀璨。世間另有一種詩意，是將繁盛大景化做小巧精緻，梵克雅寶在同系列當中，便是以垂柳、橡樹、白樺木和菩提樹為靈感，創造出多枚色彩絢爛的胸針，以珊瑚或是蛋白石為枝幹，金質搭配彩色藍寶石葉瓣，巧兮燦兮傳頌著綺麗的樹之歌。
When it comes to combining nature and poetry, Van Cleef & Arpels never fails to create masterpieces. From the latest Le Grand Tour High Jewelry collection, the Étoile des glaciers brooch merges the musings of a poet with captivating poetic imagery. Paying homage to the winter days in the Alps depicted by the poet George Sand, the artistic piece beautifully recreates the rare Alpine Snowbell. Adorned with various fancy-cut diamonds – round, pear-shaped, square, marquise – the layers evoke the delicate white petals of the snowbell flowers in full bloom. Adding vibrancy and brilliance, the yellow diamonds and blue sapphires further accentuate the blooming flower. Another form of poetry can be found in miniaturizing grand landscapes. In the same collection, Van Cleef & Arpels draws inspiration from weeping willows, oak trees, birches and bodhi trees to create a series of colorful brooches. With coral or opal as branches, the leaves made of gold and colorful sapphires eloquently sing the alluring ode of trees.