TEXT|Lynn Tan , TRANSLATION |Elaina Kung
During late autumn, the wind is brisk and the water is refreshingly cool. On this island called Taiwan, this season is the most comfortable time to connect with nature and may be the last chance to embrace the sea breeze before the cold winter season arrives. For those that aren’t in the presence of nature, a visual feast through jewelry design can present the essence of the wind and the traces of water…
Harry Winston細膩詮釋大海的絢漪錦簇系列﹙Sparkling Cluster﹚，是以品牌經典的Cluster鑲嵌為基礎，此項工藝是將鑽石鑲嵌於幾乎看不到金屬底座的小巧底座，使得鑽石在視覺上彷彿漂浮於空中，如此便能擁有最好的光線折射，並且精彩呈現作品的立體感。在全新的絢漪錦簇系列之中，運用了深藍色的藍寶石、淺藍色的海水藍寶石、晶燦的白鑽。深淺漸層的藍色調詮釋著大海深邃的層次，再搭配上全系作品所運用圓形明亮式切工或水滴形切工寶石與鑽石，勾勒出如水般的輕盈淡雅。
Deep Blue Seascape
Harry Winston’s “Sparkling Cluster” collection intricately interprets the sparkling ripples of the ocean. Built on the foundation of the brand’s classic Cluster setting, this technique involves embedding diamonds in small settings with nearly invisible metal bases, creating the illusion that the diamonds are floating in the air. This, in turn, allows for optimal light refraction and a spectacular presentation of three-dimensional quality in the pieces. In the new “Sparkling Cluster” series, deep blue sapphires, light blue aquamarines, and brilliant white diamonds are employed. The gradient of deep and light blue hues represents the profound layers of the ocean, complemented by round brilliant cut and pear-shaped gemstones and diamonds used throughout the series, creating a delicate and water-like elegance.
若要揀選一個「最貼心」的珠寶設計，Boucheron的「問號項鍊」絕對是首選——1879年首次面世的問號項鍊，是創辦人Frédéric Boucheron觀察到當時項鍊的扣頭設計讓女性佩戴時需要仰賴其他人的幫忙，於是他設計出線條簡約流暢的圓形項圈，環繞於佩戴者的頸間，這種無鎖扣的設計無需借助他人便可輕鬆佩戴。簡約的項圈搭配了非對稱式的設計，再加上精湛的寶石鑲工與線條金工，打造出頸項間的視覺饗宴。也由於貌似問號，於是有了「問號項鍊」之名。至今，Boucheron持續以問號為輪廓創作新穎作品。這款Feuilles De Laurier項鍊的設計靈感，是源自芳登廣場石柱底部的月桂葉圖案。以珍珠母貝或白鑽鑲嵌的葉瓣，展現葉片不規則而層次相疊的立體動感。而透過精湛細膩的葉片傾斜角度配置，也營造出月桂葉隨風搖曳的姿態，為作品增添靈動的生命力。
Swaying with Radiance
Boucheron’s “Question Mark Necklace” is a top choice when looking for the “most thoughtful” jewelry design. The “Question Mark Necklace” was first introduced in 1879 by founder Frédéric Boucheron, who noticed back then that women required assistance from others in order to put on a necklace. As a solution, he designed a simple and fluid circular collar that gracefully encircled the wearer’s neck, allowing women to easily put on a necklace by themselves. The simple collar is complemented by an asymmetrical design, combined with exquisite gem setting and intricate metalwork, creating a visual feast for the neckline. The resemblance of the necklace to a question mark earned it the name “Question Mark Necklace,” and till this day, Boucheron continues to create pieces with a question mark as its profile. This Feuilles De Laurier necklace is inspired by the laurel leaf pattern at the base of the Place Vendôme. The leaf petals, inlaid with mother-of-pearl or white diamonds, showcases an irregular and layered three-dimensional dynamism. The expertly arranged petals of the leaves at different angles also produces the impression of laurel leaves swaying in the wind, adding a sense of vitality to the piece.
Graff這款全鑽項鍊，透過馬眼形、水滴形切割鑽石，由上至下、由小至大漸進式鑲嵌，展現鑽飾的層次，也詮釋水滴的兩種樣貌。正如創辦人Laurace Graff OBE先生所說：「每顆鑽石都擁有與眾不同的故事， 大自然為我們送上不同凡響的盛禮，因此我們有責任盡量展現它的天賦美態。」 於是，在這條項鍊上總重25.93克拉的白鑽，魚貫鑲嵌排列，淋漓盡致地闡述了水的姿態。如涓涓水流，也如晨間露珠的滴落，既有浪漫情懷又具璀璨風情。
The Brilliance of Water Droplets
The Graff necklace, adorned with marquise and pear-shaped cut diamonds, progressively set from top to bottom, showcases the layering of the jewelry and interprets the two facets of water droplets. As founder Laurace Graff OBE once said, “Every diamond has a unique story, and nature has bestowed upon us exceptional gifts, so it is our responsibility to present its innate beauty as best as we can.” Therefore, for this necklace, 25.93 carats of white diamonds are seamlessly arranged, vividly illustrating the postures of water. Like a gentle stream and the dropping of morning dew, it possesses both romantic sentiment and a dazzling charm.
Tiffany & Co. 在今秋呈現的Blue Book系列幻海秘境（Out of the Blue）全新作品，再次傳承珠寶詩人Jean Schlumberger的海洋風格創作，誠如珠寶暨高級珠寶首席藝術總監Nathalie Verdeille所說︰「……幻海秘境Out of the Blue全系列在摹仿與風格形塑、描繪與具象、寫實主義與自然抽象之間靈活轉換。……」於是，在鮮明的幾何美學之中重塑這如真似夢的水底元素。例如以未經優化處理的紫色藍寶石與鑽石鑲嵌而成的珊瑚溢彩（Coral）項鍊，詮釋珊瑚在水流之間悠游擺盪，彷彿是將風化作了水，將風裡的飄搖重現於海中。同系列一款魚躍光影（Pisces）作品，主石為一枚超過12克拉未經優化處理的橙色藍寶石，透過不對稱的線條演繹著魚鰭在水中隨波蕩漾的恣意與隨興。
Tiffany & Co.’s new “Blue Book” collection, for this autumn, titled “Out of the Blue”, once again carries forward the ocean-inspired creations of jewelry poet Jean Schlumberger. As Nathalie Verdeille, the Chief Artistic Officer for Jewelry and High Jewelry, stated, “The “Out of the Blue” collection seamlessly navigates between imitation and style shaping, depiction and concretization, realism and natural abstraction.” In this context, this collection reshapes these dreamlike underwater elements within a distinctive geometric aesthetic. For example, the Coral necklace is created by inlaying unenhanced purple sapphire and diamonds to create the image of the coral swaying between water currents, capturing the movements of the sea. Another piece in the collection, Pisces, features an unenhanced orange sapphire that weighs above 12 carats as the central stone. This piece utilizes asymmetrical lines to illustrate the carefree fluttering of fish fins underwater.
Deep Blue Elegance
Blue cocktails have the power of evoking a sense of relaxation and leisure. Simply hearing the name of a cocktail can transport one’s mind and heart to another place; for example, the cocktail Blue Hawaii can transport one to a tropical island filled with birds and flowers. This classic ring from Piaget draws inspiration from cocktails and features a blue topaz as the centerpiece, with the sides adorned to resemble a plumeria alba. This design beautifully captures the leisure moment of sipping cocktails by the azure coastline.
The romantic and poetic Van Cleef & Arpels interprets the beauty of the ocean’s power in their “Lucky Summer” collection. In necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, they utilize yellow gold, lazurite, turquoise, chalcedony, white mother-of-pearl, and diamonds to craft totems of various sizes, creating a continuous yet intricate flow.
The mother-of-pearl shines like a reflection on a calm lake’s surface, and the embedded diamonds glisten like the sparkling ripples under the sunlight. These pieces not only interpret the ever-present sound of the sea waves, but also transforms them into a continuous, undulating lines. The asymmetric design, especially, beautifully conveys the asymmetric yet harmonious beauty of nature.