Text ∣ Lynn Tan , Translation ∣ Elaina Kung
樹木的枝枒冒出嫩綠的葉，捎來初春的訊息。無論是翠綠色的沙弗萊石，或是濃郁色調的祖母綠，都活力盎然地演繹春季瀰漫的繁茂綠意。
Tender, green leaves sprouting on tree branches hints at the arrival of early spring. Whether it’s the forest green of tsavorite, or the rich tones of emerald, both gems boasts a luscious green, embodying the spring season.
蔥鬱紐約
一個品牌創立的起點，就像是選定一處的土壤播種向下扎根，在經年累月中長成蔥鬱大樹，海瑞溫斯頓運用祖母綠作為New York紐約系列的主軸，詮釋品牌創立於紐約的歷程，紐約系列中的 Cathedral頂級珠寶，是呼應最初店址對面的聖派翠克大教堂（St. Patrick’s Cathedral）而做設計，作品中白鑽鑲嵌於金質上，搭配著水滴形切割祖母綠，重現教堂的外觀。系列中Central Park頂級珠寶則是以紐約著名的中央公園為創作繆思。中央公園距離海瑞溫斯頓先生的辦公室僅數個街區，因此海瑞溫斯頓先生與珠寶設計師經常從自然之美中汲取靈感。因此，Central Park系列其實是採用少見的空拍視角所打造。在Central Park Mosaic耳環、手鍊及戒指作品當中，祖母綠、藍寶石、鑽石以及海水藍寶等各種寶石，在有如馬賽克般的拼貼風格鑲嵌之中，演繹出色彩綺麗及富有幾何感的中央公園。
Luxuriant New York
The founding point of a brand is like picking soil to plant seeds that grows into flourishing trees over the years. For the New York Collection, Harry Winston uses emeralds as the center, interpreting the brand’s establishment in New York. The Cathedral high jewelry, within the New York Collection, pays homage to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, located opposite to the brand’s original store. The pieces feature diamonds set in gold, complemented by pear-cut emeralds, recreating the appearance of the cathedral. The Central Park Collection is inspired by the famous Central Park in New York, located just a few blocks from Harry Winston’s office. Mr. Winston and the jewelry designers often draw inspiration from the beauty of nature, and the Central Park Collection is created using an uncommon aerial perspective. In the Central Park Mosaic earrings, bracelets, and rings, gems such as: emeralds, sapphire, diamonds and aquamarine are intricately set in a mosaic style, portraying the colorful and geometric essence of Central Park.
清燦翩飛
出自Cindy Chao手中的作品，有著絕然清晰的作品輪廓——建築感、雕塑性、生命力。而在2022 Black Label Masterpiece X大師系列春之荳蔻胸針作品上，她更是在自我風格之中再創巔峰：呈現3D-3概念，以「立體中的立體」做為呈現。她在作品標誌性的建築感、雕塑感有機立體結構之上，融合油畫色彩堆疊原理，將各式切割的各式寶石多層次的鑲嵌疊加。概念首作「春之荳蔻胸針」以約81克拉的哥倫比亞祖母綠作為主石，其他寶石在油畫色彩推疊原理以及各式寶石的疊加鑲嵌之下，塑造出立體光影的效果和多面向的3D包裹式結構，創造出立體起伏的3D-3全新概念。
3D-3全新概念誕生後的首款年度蝴蝶——2023 Black Label Masterpiece No.1大師系列年度蝴蝶Amour Butterfly儷影蝴蝶，在歷經五年、超過數萬個工時後翩然現世。這款年度蝴蝶依舊由Cindy Chao 親自塑型，為求藝術珠寶的完美，整件作品結構推翻重做數十次，最終呈現出雙蝶造型的蝴蝶。一對六角糖塔形哥倫比亞祖母綠佔據視覺主軸的同時，蝶翼舒展而交疊的立體感也美的令人震撼。為了讓蝴蝶翅膀具備更多層次並呈現向外舒展的視覺效果，Cindy Chao首次使用逐步潛入式的脈絡打造翅脈，期間蝴蝶翅膀造型修改多達上百次。在多層次鑲嵌工藝之下，透過蝶翅表層玫瑰式切割鑽石，能夠看到下層的藍寶石，在角度變化之中，呈現色彩及光影變幻的輕盈蝶翅，清燦翩飛。
Clear and Graceful
Cindy Chao’s works are characterized by clear outlines, embodying architectural elements, sculptural qualities, and vitality. In her 2022 Black Label Masterpiece X Collection’s Spring Cardamom Brooch, she reaches a new pinnacle by introducing a distinctive three-dimensional concept, labeled as 3D-3, highlighting the integration of architectural and sculptural elements with vivid oil painting color layering principles. The Spring Cardamom Brooch features an approximately 81 carat Colombian emerald as the main stone. The layering of other gemstones, inspired by the principles of oil painting color stacking, creates a three-dimensional play of light and shadow, and a multidimensional 3D-3 structure, bringing depth to the piece.
Following the 3D-3 concept, the first annual butterfly creation, as well as the tenth out of all butterfly pieces, emerged in the 2023 Black Label Masterpiece No.1 Collection — the Amour Butterfly. Crafted over five years, and taking up tens of thousands of hours to complete, this sculpture was personally shaped by Cindy Chao, presenting a butterfly with dual forms. With a pair of hexagonal sugarloaf-cut Colombian emeralds as the focal point, the wings of the butterfly are gracefully spread, creating a stunning three-dimensional effect. In order to add layers to the butterfly’s wings and illustrate an outwardly, expanding visual effect, Cindy Chao utilized a gradual submergence technique for the veins. After being modified for over a hundred times, the wings are adorned with rose-cut diamonds, revealing layers of blue sapphires underneath, creating a mesmerizing, fluttering appearance.
璀璨萬千
春的綠充滿詩意，在嫩綠、草綠、濃綠等各色的綠之中，還夾帶著冬季殘留的枯葉，深淺層次的色彩之間訴說著季節更迭的故事。善於以珠寶描繪故事與打造詩意情境的梵克雅寶，在一款靈感源於1950年代疊襟式晚裝所設計的Chevron Mystérieux套件中，將祖母綠運用著世家傳統隱密式鑲嵌（Traditional Mystery Set），讓蔥鬱的綠如一片畫布，鋪疊在佩戴者的頸項之間。一如世家多數高級珠寶大件作品，Chevron Mystérieux套件也是設計為轉換式珠寶，共6種佩戴方式。三顆分別重約31.24、12.18及12.07克拉的DFL等級Type IIa型的梨形切割鑽石可拆卸下來，讓項鍊中的祖母綠成為唯一的主角。中央的圖騰可作為吊墜懸於鍊條上；另外兩顆鑽石可以點綴成套的祖母綠耳環，讓梨形鑽石垂墜於祖母綠貼耳耳環。
梵克雅寶不僅是在項鍊展現轉換式珠寶的功力，以巴登巴登大街為靈感設計的Jeu de colombage戒指佩戴方式可多達4種，主石為13.35克拉糖塔形切割祖母綠祖母綠，融合錐體與圓潤的線條再搭配周圍藍寶石、紅寶石、白鑽，打造出豐盛繽紛的視覺效果。想展現不同戒指的樣貌時，可將圍繞祖母綠的珠寶元素拆下，便能夠化為單鑲祖母綠的戒指；也可拆卸中央祖母綠主石而呈現中央為鑽石與周圍藍寶石搭配的戒指組合，或是白鑽主石搭配藍寶石與紅寶石，一款戒指便能夠有截然不同的4種呈現，也足見世家在轉換式珠寶的頂級工藝。
Dazzling and Magnificent
The poetic essence of spring, with its various shades of green ranging from tender to deep, intermingles with the remnants of winter’s dried leaves, narrating the story of changing seasons. Van Cleef & Arpels, known for its ability to illustrate stories and create poetic scenes through jewelry, introduces the Chevron Mystérieux set inspired by the layered evening gown designs of the 1950s. This set employs the maison’s Traditional Mystery Set technique, showcasing emeralds in a cascading design around the wearer’s neck. Like several high jewelry pieces from the brand, the Chevron Mystérieux set is designed to be convertible, offering six different ways to wear it. The set’s centerpiece features three pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 31.24, 12.18, and 12.07 carats each. These diamonds, of the DFL grade and Type IIa clarity, are removable, allowing the emeralds to take center stage. The central motif can be worn as a pendant on the chain, while the other two diamonds can be adorned as matching emerald earrings, with the pear-cut diamonds hanging from the emerald studs.
Van Cleef & Arpels not only demonstrates its mastery of convertible jewelry in the necklace, but also in the Jeu de colombage ring inspired by Baden-Baden Street. This ring can be worn in four different ways, and features a 13.35 carat sugarloaf-cut emerald surrounded by sapphires, rubies and white diamonds, creating a rich and vibrant visual effect. One can also choose to remove the jewelry surrounding the emerald, transforming it into a single-set emerald ring, or present different combinations with a central diamond surrounded by sapphires and rubies; this showcases the maison’s top-tier craftsmanship in convertible high jewelry.
翠光星韻
TIFFANY & CO.高級珠寶系列幻海秘境Out of the Blue海岩星韻（Starfish）主題作品，將海浪起伏的立體層次，在方、圓、橢圓、梨形等各種花式切割鑽石的組成之間，以鑽石的光芒展現陽光下浪花的光燦。海星的生命力則是以綠色銅鋰碧璽以及沙弗萊石所散發的翠綠色光彩活力盡顯。鍊墜中央所鑲一顆逾22克拉未經優化處理的綠色銅鋰碧璽，更是奪人目光。海岩星韻與同系列各款作品，都在花式切割鑽石、彩色寶石以及線條的架構之中，呈現海洋生物的萬千景象，蒂芙尼珠寶暨高級珠寶首席藝術總監Nathalie Verdeille對此系列如此言說︰「幻海秘境Out of the Blue全系列在摹仿與風格形塑、描繪與具象、寫實主義與自然抽象之間靈活轉換。這些洋溢海洋風情的作品是對史隆伯傑先生驚人創意的禮讚，他的創意引領我們建構出新型態的夢幻設計，為他半世紀前的奇思妙想注入蓬勃活力。」這一段話精闢地為此系列所呈現的創作精髓道盡了一切，無須其他言語的贅述已足見此系列的靈魂。
Verdant Elegance
TIFFANY & CO.’s Out of the Blue Collection’s Starfish theme jewelry captures the dynamic layers of ocean waves using various fancy-cut diamonds such as: square, round, oval and pear. The brilliance of the diamonds represents the glistening sea under the sunlight, and the vitality of the starfish is portrayed through the green hues of untreated tourmalines and peridots. The centerpiece of the pendant is adorned with an untreated green cuprian elbaite weighing over 22 carats, attracting the viewer’s attention. The Out of the Blue Collection, including the Starfish theme, illustrates scenes of marine life through the arrangement of fancy-cut diamonds, colored gemstones, and artistic lines. Nathalie Verdeille, Tiffany’s Chief Artistic Officer for Jewelry and High Jewelry, states, “The Out of the Blue Collection is a flexible interchange between imitation and style, depiction and figuration, realism, and natural abstraction. These works, brimming with oceanic charm, pays tribute to Mr. Jean Schlumberger, whose visionary ideas from half a century ago continues to infuse vitality into the creation of this new dreamlike design.” This statement captures the creative brilliance presented in this collection, requiring no further words to explain the essence of this series.
柔情飄飛
由珠寶設計師Anna Hu所打造的珠寶，輕盈如樂譜上的音符。若旋律是看的見的，那麼，Anna Hu的作品便是了……。她將多年古典音樂造詣融入作品中的DNA，於是作品中有著顯而易見的旋律性，繽紛的寶石色調，呼應著樂曲裡的豐富性。如此古典浪漫的氛圍在「愛的禮讚祖母綠耳環」與流行於愛德華時代的蝴蝶結相得益彰。這一對耳環以分別為1.55克拉和1.45克拉的祖母綠包覆於柔美線條的蝴蝶結之中。垂墜的鑽石流蘇，是以菱形與Baguette（現代法棍式切工）等花式切割鑽石，搭配圓形明亮式切割鑽石而成，如透著光流瀉而下的瀑布。這對耳環有三種佩戴方式——單獨配戴主石祖母綠耳環、祖母綠搭配緞帶、搭配鑽石流蘇，一款呈現三種風情。
同樣出自「愛的禮讚」系列的祖母綠戒指，是Anna Hu與哥倫比亞 MUZO寶石公司合作，採用3 顆未經處理具備高淨度與飽和綠色調的MUZO祖母綠所打造，主石為2.6克拉哥倫比亞MUZO無油祖母綠寶石。綠色，或濃郁或淡雅，對於喜愛淡色秀綠的藏家而言，「印象百合橄欖石手鐲」中央橄欖石達53.92克拉，清澈透亮、像是望著一池秀綠的水。手鐲搭配深淺的藍紫色藍寶石、紫紅色琺瑯，再加上花蕊漆上帶有如花粉般的水晶石晶粒，增添花朵真實感的視覺效果。另外，以18K玫瑰金及黃銅鍛造，手繪特殊綠色琺瑯漆，同時刷繪出青銅綠年代感效果，也為這款作品打造獨特的魅力。
Drifting Feelings
Annu Hu’s creations are as light as the musical notes on a score. She incorporates her expertise in classical music into the DNA of her pieces, creating a visible, melodic quality with vibrant gemstone tones, echoing the richness of musical compositions. This is evident in the Salut d’Amour Emerald Earrings, which beautifully complements the butterfly bows popular during the Edwardian era. These earrings feature emeralds of 1.55 and 1.45 carats each, enveloped in delicate butterfly bows. The dangling diamond tassels are crafted using fancy-cut diamonds such as diamonds with a baguette cut, creating a cascade of light pouring down like a waterfall. These earrings can be worn in three different ways, showcasing different styles — worn individually, or paired with a ribbon or the diamond tassels.
Additionally, the Salut d’Amour Collection features an emerald ring, a collaboration between Anna Hu and the Colombian gemstone company MUZO, featuring a 2.6 carat, untreated Colombian MUZO emerald as the main stone. For those who appreciate lighter shades of green, the Enchanted Lily Bangle in Peridot features a central peridot stone weighing 53.92 carats that is clear and bright like a pool of water. The bracelet is adorned with various shades of blue-violet sapphires, purple-red enamel, and crystalline particles resembling pollen, creating a lifelike visual effect. It is crafted in 18K rose gold and brass, hand-painted with special green enamel, and brushed with bronze-green for a vintage and unique touch.
星光燦幕
GRAFF充滿生命力與燦爛活力的Tribal系列，是源自於民間傳說「創造星星的女孩」而起的靈感——「在沙漠深處，女孩圍著篝火起舞……。她撈起仍然通紅的餘燼，撒向空中……。餘燼神奇地變成繁星，照亮漆黑的夜空，猶如在空中閃爍的鑽石。」於是，在Tribal系列當中，祖母綠彷彿化身為大地，在蔥鬱靜謐的色彩之中，伴著祖母綠內部如「花園」般的天然內含物，搭配各式切割的鑽石，呼應著故事當中在天空閃爍的繁星。
GRAFF珠寶一向是在令人驚艷的設計當中，同時富含珍貴寶石永恆雋永的保值性，在Tribal系列也不例外，一款Tribal系列多形切割祖母綠鑽石項鍊，祖母綠總重達57.30克拉，鑽石總重58.35克拉。一副Tribal系列梨形祖母綠和多形切割鑽石耳環，祖母綠總重高達22.47克拉，鑽石總重10.18克拉。能達到如此高克拉數得祖母綠相當難得，由於祖母綠的結晶顆粒通常比較微小，挖掘大顆原石已不容易，再經過切磨後，一顆優質且 2 克拉以上的就不容易，若是超過 5 克拉更是極品，在GRAFF的作品當中，有一枚祖母綠形切割戒指主石達14.54克拉，絕對是珍品中的珍品。
Starry Brillance
GRAFF’s vibrant and lively Tribal Collection is inspired by the folklore of the “girl who created the stars.” The story is about a girl, dancing around a campfire in the depths of a desert, lifting the still-glowing embers and scattering them into the air. These magical embers transform into a multitude of stars, illuminating the dark night sky like sparkling diamonds. In the Tribal Collection, green emeralds symbolize the earth and its serene colors. The natural inclusions within the emeralds, resembling a “garden,” are complemented by various diamond cuts, echoing the shimmering stars in the story.
Known for stunning designs and the enduring value of precious gemstones, GRAFF continues this in the Tribal Collection. A necklace in the Tribal Collection features multi-shaped-cut emerald diamonds, with a total weight of 57.30 carats, complemented by diamonds with a total weight of 58.35 carats. A pair of Tribal Collection pear-shaped emerald and multi-shaped-cut diamond earrings showcases emeralds with a total weight of 22.47 carats, and diamonds with a total weight of 10.18 carats. It is rare to achieve such high carat weights for emeralds as emerald crystals are typically smaller. After cutting and polishing, it becomes even more challenging to obtain a high-quality emerald above 2 carats, and exceeding 5 carats is considered exceptional. In GRAFF’s collection, there is even a ring with an emerald as the central stone that weights 14.54 carats; it is truly a rarity among rarities.