enya FASHION QUEEN

秀場報導|2025秋冬時裝週亮點總覽:LV、DIOR、VALENTINO、PRADA、FENDI、GUCCI,坐上米蘭開往巴黎的時尚特快

2025秋冬時裝週米蘭巴黎亮點總覽:LOUIS VUITTON, DIOR, VALENTINO, PRADA, FENDI, GUCCI

EDITOR Ning Chi|TRANSLATOR Aurora Lin|PHOTO DIOR, FENDI, GUCCI, LOUIS VUITTON, PRADA, VALENTINO

熱戀米蘭,情定巴黎
2025/26秋冬時裝週亮點總覽
Love in Milan, Destiny in Paris
A Complete Review of Fall/Winter 2025/26 Fashion Week Highlights

搭上每年春初、秋末班次的時尚特快車穿行四大時裝週,我們看見即將漫入街頭的著裝趨勢,看見歷史典範和當代思潮的交會,看見當家總監領創意團隊的心血結晶,更看見過往的翻新與對未來的開闊想像。

紐約啟程,重點走訪倫敦,接續探查米蘭工坊,最後巴黎的滿盛光景映入眼簾——當然,在本就深淺不一的歷史根基上,四城市如今的聲量消長愈趨快速且顯著。2025秋冬秀程開跑後由《BOF》統整法國行銷數據平台Lefty資料顯示,本季巴黎時裝週的網路關注度已然超越紐約、倫敦加總的兩倍之多,米蘭則憑藉約巴黎六成左右的EMV(媒體價值)穩居第二。這說明了什麼?說明創意的價值不可衡量,但商業的抉擇卻始終如鐘擺般震盪著時尚發展。換帥納新、移師辦秀,乃至於實操以明星為同心圓主體的社群效應,無一不是為了從開局便打好業績這張牌,哪怕再好的創意都需力爭下一次揮灑的機會。

各位時尚乘客,讓我們首先注目巴黎巨頭LOUIS VUITTON、DIOR新系列和VALENTINO元劇場,再回頭揭開坐鎮米蘭的PRADA、FENDI、GUCCI驚喜作品。3位品牌老將、1位家族傳人、1組設計班底,以及1位接任不久的新總監⋯⋯以下帶來2025/26秋冬大秀完整亮點與服裝解析。

Boarding the fashion express that departs each early spring and late autumn, we journey through the four major fashion capitals, witnessing the silhouettes soon to grace city streets, the dialogue between heritage and modernity, and the collaborative masterpieces between creative directors and their ateliers. More than that, we see reinterpretations of the past and bold visions of the future.

The journey begins in New York, moves through London, immerses itself in Milanese craftsmanship, and culminates in the radiant splendour of Paris. Yet beneath these storied foundations, the ebb and flow of each city’s influence is growing ever more dynamic. According to Business of Fashion and French marketing platform Lefty, Paris Fashion Week this season generated over twice the online engagement of New York and London combined, while Milan followed with approximately 60% of Paris’s EMV (Earned Media Value)—a clear indication that while creativity is immeasurable, commercial decisions continue to shape fashion’s trajectory like a swinging pendulum. Leadership changes, venue shifts, and star-powered social strategies all underscore the industry’s reality: no matter how brilliant the ideas, only a strong debut secures the next canvas.

Fashion passengers, fasten your seatbelts. Let us first turn our gaze to the Parisian powerhouses—LOUIS VUITTON, DIOR, and VALENTINO—before circling back to explore Milan’s captivating showcases from PRADA, FENDI, and GUCCI. Three legacy maestros, one family heiress, one co-design team, and a newly appointed director—what follows is your full report on the Fall/Winter 2025/26 shows and their defining looks.

LOUIS VUITTON 共聚路威月台

高級時裝就要正統又嚴謹?誰說的,創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière的2025秋冬女裝「電影」在在揭示一切動起來才酷!以旅行為核心概念的LOUIS VUITTON,此次將秀場從羅浮宮拉至北方之星L’Étoile du Nord,一處保留19世紀鐵路魅力的神祕站點;當開場模特兒背光而來,重節拍的大秀音樂推使車站大廳的掛鐘指針,擁抱著發生在月台上的相遇和分別、出發和抵達,時間滴答流逝間一幀幀畫面如電影般情思湧動。

服裝重點解析

全系列從面料和廓型下手,混合城市時髦風韻與鄉村舒適感受,甚或汲取靈感自法國電子樂團Kraftwerk標誌性專輯《環歐快車》封面,打造合作服飾及包款。

黑色、紅色和沉黯的大地色交錯於運動夾克、斗篷狀外套和雕塑感上衣之間,落日橘洋裝斜灑細碎亮片,帶著向晚的慵懶奔放。配件部分亦緊扣旅行敘事,多款樂器盒提包持續堆疊本季音樂靈感、全新L’Express手袋推出不同皮紋和色彩搭配,1988年的LV II歷史腕錶則以5款造型回歸,還可作為飾物佩戴於頸間。同時,精靈王子Felix二度走上伸展台,更賦予21世紀20年代時裝無性別趨勢指標性意義。

深層敘事探索

人來人往,有聚有散。所有人都是參與者,也都是旁觀者。
模特兒在街燈下行走,座位沒有前後排之分;反倒由身懷故事的每一個人,面對著品牌輝煌歲月中充滿生命力的創意切片,自發沉浸抑或抽離鑑賞。且不能不提Ghesquière絕對是挑選靈魂音樂的佼佼者,具強烈感染力的旋律和唱詞,搭配開場和閉場相呼應的暗夜藍光,不由地喚起驅動時尚煥新最根本那縷好玩的念想——「好玩」包括或悲或喜的人生體驗,豐富設計和著裝欲望應運而生,使我們有了在日常中起舞的力量。

LOUIS VUITTON – RENDEZVOUS AT THE LV PLATFORM

Who says haute couture must be stiff and severe? Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection unfolds like a film, proving that in motion lies the magic. Staying true to LOUIS VUITTON’s travel-centric DNA, this season’s show relocated from the Louvre to L’Étoile du Nord—a mysterious 19th-century railway station in northern Paris. As the first model emerged backlit to pulsating beats, the station’s grand clock ticked forward, marking encounters and farewells, departures and arrivals—each moment cinematic in its passage through time.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Fabrics and silhouettes blend metropolitan sophistication with rustic charm, with nods to Kraftwerk’s iconic album Trans-Europe Express, inspiring collaborative apparel and accessories. Black, crimson, and earthy tones dance across sporty bombers, cape-like coats, and sculptural tops. Sunset-hued gowns shimmer with scattered sequins, evoking twilight’s languid grace. Accessories further echo the theme of travel—instrument case handbags amplify the musical undercurrent, while the newly introduced L’Express bag appears in various leathers and hues. The 1988 LV II timepiece returns in five versions, doubling as a neck ornament. Notably, Prince Felix’s second runway appearance reinforces the gender-fluid spirit shaping 2020s fashion.

NARRATIVE EXPLORATION

Every passerby is both witness and participant. Models traverse beneath streetlamps, seats arranged without hierarchy, inviting attendees to immerse or detach as they wish. Ghesquière’s music curation remains peerless—its lyrical depth and magnetic rhythms, bathed in midnight-blue light, awaken the joy that fuels fashion’s constant renewal. And ”joy” encompasses life’s full spectrum—melancholy or elation—each feeding the desire to dress, to move, to dance in the ordinary.

DIOR 臨摹衣裝變革

暗場之中,四面台一角垂掛鞦韆,一名白衣人坐於其上,仰頭望向天穹……伴隨幾次「Once Upon a Time(從前從前)」的渾厚回聲,DIOR 2025秋冬篇從此說起。全系列服裝仍以黑白為主調、米金為點綴,幾抹暗紅乍現,而符碼般的精緻蕾絲絕不會從Maria Grazia Chiuri的創意視野中褪淡——這是DIOR的美學底蘊,眾所期待的不外乎是品牌在同一優雅畫布上繪出的別樣靈光。

系列靈感來源

吳爾芙小說《奧蘭多》描述同名角色奧蘭多跨越時空的雌雄轉換,全書兼富對服裝演進的記敘和對性別氣質的探究,數十年來可謂為設計師們不斷鑿掘的靈感之源。本季Chiuri著眼主人翁的文藝復興風格領飾,經現代化演繹後大量黏貼於系列作品中——恰如其言,「時尚是一種變革的載體,設計的目的在於展現服裝如何見證承載文化、美學和社會的沿革。」秀場空間依序以史前鳥、岩石、隕石坑及冰山裝置象徵持續變動的世界,將完整系列分割出多個帶有漸變戲劇色彩的服裝套組。

服裝重點解析

搭起與歷史的多元對話,本季服裝重新詮釋了屬於Dior的記憶與姿態,John Galliano所設計的「J’adore Dior」標語T恤,以貼花刺繡的華麗之姿回歸;下身搭配綴有巴洛克珍珠的天鵝絨緞帶裙,如同去物質化的襯裙般為整體造型增添趣味性。並修剪90年代時任總監Gianfranco Ferré鍾愛的寬鬆廓型白襯衫,搭於燕尾服外套、極短版皮衣等風格化裝束內;同時,輕盈的透明襯衫與極具結構感的啞黑色毛氈大衣形成對比,強化了本季交錯生成的剛柔線條。另有光滑皮質、古董織花、立體紋樣及燈籠型抓皺等各式百慕達短褲勾勒出中世紀騎士形象,男性化西裝外套與緊身馬甲的結合則打破既定性別界限,參想著未來的女性特質。謝幕時所有模特兒定格呈現全系列作品,歷史檔案、故事靈感與現下時裝被有力地連綴而起,開展於眼前。

DIOR – SKETCHING THE EVOLUTION OF DRESS

In darkness, a swing descends in a four-sided theatre. A figure in white sits upon it, gazing skyward. The deep intonation of ”Once Upon a Time” reverberates—the Fall/Winter 2025 chapter begins. Dominated by black and white with accents of ivory gold and sudden flashes of crimson, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection is a continuation of the DIOR aesthetic, steeped in lace like an enduring code—timeless, yet ever reimagined.

INSPIRATIONAL SOURCE

Virginia Woolf ‘s Orlando—a novel chronicling gender metamorphosis across centuries—serves as Chiuri’s muse. The protagonist’s Renaissance ruff, modernized and repurposed throughout the collection, mirrors Chiuri’s own philosophy: ”Fashion is a vehicle for change; design reveals how garments witness the evolution of culture, aesthetics, and society.” The set, featuring installations of prehistoric birds, meteorites, rock formations, and glaciers, symbolises a world in constant flux—dividing the show into theatrical chapters of transformation.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Dior’s legacy is dissected and reinterpreted—John Galliano’s ”J’adore Dior” tee returns with opulent embroidery, paired with baroque-pearl-trimmed velvet skirts mimicking the playfulness of petticoats. Oversized shirts, inspired by Gianfranco Ferré’s 1990s tenure, are layered under cropped leather jackets and tuxedo blazers. Soft sheer blouses clash against structured black felt coats, creating powerful juxtapositions of hard and soft. From glossy leather and antique jacquards to lantern-shaped bermudas and sculptural corsets, the garments channel medieval knights and dismantle gendered dressing. The finale—models frozen in tableau—ties past, present, and future into a single resonant thread.

VALENTINO 表演真實自我

Alessandro Michele的設計有一種魔力,讓人渴望從伸展台直直闖進他的內心,窺探他藏於詩意表達之後的哲思與繆想。然而,「我們在層層揭開表象之時,不必執著於尋找所謂的『核心』或『隱藏的本質』,因為這些並不比外在的表現、角色扮演或偽裝來得更為真實。」他卻援引此言,構思出一座充斥紅光的公共廁所發表2025秋冬系列;透過反傳統的異托邦短暫化解親密與暴露、個人與集體、私密與共享、深度與表象之間這種內外的二元對立——當模特兒(亦可代入每一個我們)對鏡擺首,映照出的究竟是被層層包裹以至於並不見得存在的真實自我,抑或只是所謂的「本真」假以示人的面具?

服裝重點解析

旨在探討親密關係的表演性,秀上多數造型搭配頭套和墨鏡,卻也有幾身連體衣著裝不完全、露出膚色底褲,在偽飾和超逸之間過猶不及。當蝴蝶結外套、作舊牛仔褲和VANS帆布鞋的組合營造出另類街頭感,喬其紗和蕾絲製成的粉彩禮服仍帶著古典戲劇性。

上季吸睛的瓷貓包款本季化為拖尾洋裝上的水鑽圖案,直見Michele的怪誕美學沒有要停筆——縱使這位設計師每回都給我們留了許多話,他的作品事實上卻不需要任何註解,便足夠有力道衝擊、打散,重構繁複之最。

VALENTINO – PERFORMING THE SELF

Alessandro Michele’s designs beckon us into his psyche, where fantasy and philosophy blur. But rather than seeking an elusive ”essence,” Michele challenges that premise altogether: ”Truth is no more authentic than its outer performance.” For Fall/Winter 2025, he stages a show in a red-lit public restroom—a provocative heterotopia where binaries dissolve: intimacy and exposure, self and other, private and shared.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Exploring performative intimacy, the show featured masked models in sunglasses, but also left bodies bare with skin-toned undergarments and deconstructed jumpsuits. Bowed coats, distressed denim, and VANS sneakers offered an alternative street aesthetic, while pastel gowns in lace and chiffon brought theatrical classicism. Last season’s porcelain-cat purse becomes a rhinestone motif trailing down a gown—a testament to Michele’s relentless eccentricity. His designs speak in riddles, but they never need explaining—they mesmerize, fragment, and reconstruct fashion’s complexities.

PRADA 開放美麗釋義

女性特質是如何被定義的?由Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons共同創作的2025秋冬系列是對此命題的一次審問,圍繞著人們對美、對典型女性特質的集體認知而生。大秀於PRADA藝術基金會Deposito場內舉辦,金屬腳架重塑空間,模特兒踩著最初由設計師Catherine Martin所設計的圖騰地毯登場,藉視覺上的對比反映服裝所蘊藏的原始與精緻、結構與裝飾等複雜意義。

服裝重點解析

短短6分鐘大秀呈現52套造型,服裝比例的重新縮放、非典型材料的翻玩運用,甚至刻意露出縫線等「逆反」手法,無非都是對女裝《美麗・精緻・時髦》規章的破格嘗試;最有趣之處在於,這些逆反顯然經過嚴謹鋪排(不禁想起Miuccia Prada曾說PRADA的設計總要深思熟慮,而非憑直覺),尖銳地拒絕著某種「正確」的審美——我們看到了Ugly Chic印花、未完成的毛邊、不明所以的領口掛件、紙袋般突兀的半身裙廓型,以及抓皺洋裝胸線上生硬的蝴蝶結裝飾——比較極端地說,它們全是打著《不漂亮・不性感・不時尚》宣言來的。珠寶和包款亦加劇與原始感之間的衝突,進一步質疑對女性特質的界定。所以,女性特質於今日的意義為何?或許PRADA並不給答案,反而塗去了答案欄。

PRADA – REWRITING THE RULES OF BEAUTY

What defines femininity? In a conceptual dialogue between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the Fall/Winter 2025 collection interrogates collective perceptions of beauty and womanhood. Staged at the PRADA Foundation’s Deposito, metallic scaffolding enclosed the space, while models walked atop Catherine Martin-designed carpets—symbols of refinement and primitivism in friction.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Across just six minutes, 52 looks reconfigured proportions and upended materials. Visible seams, raw finishes, and awkward silhouettes staged an intellectual revolt against traditional ”feminine” codes of beauty. Think: deliberately unfinished hems, bizarrely placed neck ornaments, paper-bag shaped skirts, and awkward bows slicing across the bust. Prada’s Ugly Chic is sharper than ever—each garment a counterargument to prettiness, sensuality, and style. Accessories followed suit, their rough textures and primal aesthetics challenging luxury’s gloss. PRADA offers no answers to femininity’s meaning—instead, it erases the question altogether.

FENDI 進出回憶之門

兩名身穿馬術服的7歲雙胞胎男孩拉開FENDI創始工作室的大門,2025秋冬男女裝合秀暨百年慶典正式揭幕。「我不想花太多時間在翻閱那些實體檔案上。對我來說,FENDI品牌成立百年更多跟我自己的回憶有關,不管這些回憶是真實的或想像的,關於FENDI的過去還有FENDI在當下的意義。」執掌本季系列的第三代傳人Silvia Venturini Fendi溯回1967年、7歲的自己,首次穿著Karl Lagerfeld設計的騎馬裝走上伸展台的記憶——為慶典揭幕的她的兩個孫子所穿的正是這套裝備的復刻品——復刻的不只是衣服,更是五代人深刻的夢;下一個五代或許早已越過你我有生之年所能見證,然而FENDI品牌時尚的夢卻不會止息。

面料工藝揭密

全系列採漸層色彩表彰羅馬日暮情懷,在肉桂色、赤土色、酪乳色、猩紅色和灰玫瑰色等熾熱色調中,月桂綠、汽油藍和巧克力棕等點綴之筆吸引了沙龍賓客的目光。從精緻剪裁的皮褲、鱷魚皮紋套裝到歐普藝術風格大衣⋯⋯滿滿皮革皆致敬品牌雋永工藝;FENDI更似通過本季大秀為即將開設於米蘭新店中的皮草工作室做了「首發廣告」,包括長款披肩在內的眾多仿皮草作品巧妙運用剪羊毛材質創造出猶如狐狸、紫貂毛皮的質感和外觀。

服裝重點解析

聚焦女裝設計,霓光面料的細肩連衣裙綴滿份量感裝飾,大理石紋細褶和羅紋針織裙融入捲曲波浪縫邊,象徵永恆的沙漏廓型出現在人魚及膝裙、荷葉邊花冠夾克和套裝上衣的圓袖上。

繽紛色彩與奢華頹靡韻味形塑配件系列的復古未來風格,剪羊毛嵌花、迪斯可亮片和褶皺麂皮技法重新演繹了Mamma Baguette和Peekaboo Soft包款;2005年推出的Spy包款以解構主義回歸,毛絨包體和麻花提把的搭配恐怕將使它很快躋身秋冬季It Bags之列。

配件無疑是Silvia Fendi信手拈來的強項,但別忘了她還身兼男裝總監,在男女裝並呈的秀場上自然不可能讓男士系列有絲毫失色。當衣著風雅的模特兒手抱蓬頭布偶走出工作室大門,我們果然又一次被FENDI的趣味玩心擄獲。

FENDI – THROUGH THE DOOR OF MEMORY

Two seven-year-old twins in equestrian attire push open the door to FENDI’s founding atelier—the Fall/Winter 2025 co-ed show and centennial celebration begins. ”I didn’t want to spend too much time poring over archives,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi. ”FENDI’s 100 years are more about my own memories—real or imagined—of what FENDI has meant, and still means, today.” The twins wore exact replicas of the riding outfit Karl Lagerfeld designed for a young Silvia in 1967—reawakening a family’s five-generation dream.

CRAFT AND MATERIALS

The palette captured Rome at dusk—cinnamon, terracotta, buttermilk, scarlet, and rose-grey accented by laurel green, petrol blue, and chocolate. Luxurious leatherwork took center stage—crocodile-textured suits, op-art coats, and tailored trousers reaffirmed FENDI’s artisanal roots. Faux-fur shawls crafted from shorn sheepskin mimicked fox and mink, introducing the house’s new fur studio set to debut in Milan.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Women’s looks included glistening slip dresses heavy with embellishment, rippling marble-pleated skirts, and ribbed knits with curled hems. The timeless hourglass silhouette reappeared in mermaid skirts, ruffled jackets, and circular sleeves.

Accessories exuded decadent futurism: sheepskin intarsia, disco sequins, and ruched suede reimagined the Mamma Baguette and Peekaboo Soft bags, while the cult Spy bag returned with deconstructed elements, plush textures, and braided handles—destined to be an It Bag once more. And of course, Silvia’s playful touch endured—male models carrying shaggy plush dolls reminded us: at FENDI, fashion always keeps a sense of humor.

GUCCI 輕啟時光膠囊

1960年代末誕生的GUCCI服裝系列,揚不同領航者之帆,船過數十個年頭。在當代時尚的非線性進程上,品牌服飾設計從90年代中期的極簡主義,進入Alessandro Michele所打造繁花似錦的8年時光,再至近兩年由Sabato De Sarno以「經典」二字重新書寫義式美學,又回歸簡單與別致——安可拉紅和古馳綠的過渡間,一抹令人神馳的古典底色從未消失;而正是那樣的色彩,讓GUCCI的「義大利性」總能以或簡或繁、或張揚或細膩的形式被彰顯。

>>延伸閱讀:GUCCI 2025秋冬:並陳男女裝二元性、重述完美中的不完美,綠絨盒裡一場沒有總監的時間禮讚

秀場設計寓意

「工匠與藝術家、創意總監與設計師、傳播者與顧客,每個人的故事都與之緊密相連。」模特們沿著Interlocking G字母印花伸展台行走,象徵男女裝秀場的二元性融合為一體,如同雙螺旋、陰陽或無限符號,彼此定義。

服裝重點解析

本季以義大利文單詞「Sprezzatura」為核心,體現完美中的不完美。在蘋果綠、石墨灰、羅蘭紫與大地棕的鮮明光譜下,男裝材質無違和渡入女裝世界,西裝的俐落線條被肌膚的若隱若現、色彩的跳躍或絲綢的顛覆所平衡,硬朗與柔軟的對話流淌於磨毛馬海毛襯衫、珍珠母皮革、塗層羊毛與混紡花呢中。

配件方面,馬銜鍊作為品牌符碼必然無處不在,時而化為服飾腰鍊,時而點綴皮革製品;從重新詮釋的Horsebit 1955包款、新款慵懶肩包的巨型馬銜鍊手柄,到全新Gucci Siena包款以「半馬銜鍊」扣合的精妙設計,皆刻印1955包款問世70週年里程碑。

補記:秀後17天,開雲集團正式任命原BALENCIAGA創意總監Demna為GUCCI新任總監。沒有人知道究竟什麼樣的變革能夠領向絕對的高峰,只知道「變」包含著回首與展望,是聯繫故事這一章到下一章的重要節點,而GUCCI始終透由其動人篇章傳遞無限情意。

GUCCI – A CAPSULE OF TIME

Emerging in the late 1960s, GUCCI has journeyed through a multitude of design eras. From the minimalist precision of the mid-90s to Alessandro Michele’s ornate decade, and now Sabato De Sarno’s refined classics, the brand redefines Italian identity through each transformation. Amid crimson and GUCCI green, a timeless elegance always lingers—quiet, yet commanding.

RUNWAY SYMBOLISM

”This story belongs to artisans and artists, to creative directors and customers alike,” read the notes. Models walked across an Interlocking G-printed runway, blending masculine and feminine energies in an infinite loop—a symbolic merger of dualities.

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS

Rooted in the Italian word Sprezzatura—effortless elegance—the collection embraced imperfection. Apple green, graphite, lilac, and earthy browns painted a vivid palette. Masculine fabrics met feminine cuts: mohair shirts, mother-of-pearl leathers, coated wools, and tweeds became playgrounds for structured tailoring softened by bare skin or fluid silk.

Horsebit motifs—GUCCI’s enduring emblem—appeared as waist chains, leather trims, and bag handles. The reimagined Horsebit 1955, a new oversized shoulder bag, and the debut of the Gucci Siena with its ”half-Horsebit” clasp marked the 70th anniversary of this iconic design.

Postscript: Seventeen days after the show, Kering appointed Demna—formerly of BALENCIAGA—as GUCCI’s new creative director. No one knows what change will yield the ultimate crescendo, but transformation remains fashion’s only constant. And GUCCI continues to write each chapter with elegance, memory, and passion.

【延伸閱讀】

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