EDITOR Ning Chi｜TRANSLATOR Sherry Chen｜PHOTO DIOR, GIORGIO ARMANI, VALENTINO
高訂嬉遊
2025春夏高級訂製服系列秀場報導
Haute Couture Frolic
Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture Show Report
時尚圈的一整年總是連軸轉的。去年秋末走完今年春夏女裝，男裝緊跟其後在1月中旬發表，接著便來到各大品牌灌注工坊實力打造的高訂系列揭幕之時。
高級訂製服，一針一線含蘊超越成衣的奢華工藝，在與時俱進、難以避免沒入快銷陰影的生產線上另起時尚神壇。DIOR、VALENTINO、GIORGIO ARMANI作為高訂週班底，從作品本身到背後的藝術寓意，都耐得細細挖掘品味，甚不自覺為之傾心。本期編輯邀你漫遊巴黎，領進風華萬千的大秀現場，一同揭曉2025春夏高訂系列將為新一季尖端時尚，綴以何等奢光。
隨後，時尚圈近來的大風吹終要落座——全球注目的諸位新總監首秀將於今年9、10月的四大時裝週登場。從位懸已久的CHANEL、女力接棒的BOTTEGA VENETA到十年易主的MAISON MARGIELA等，文末一併帶來2026春夏趨勢預測。
DIOR’s S/S 2025 Haute Couture Show Draws Inspiration from “Alice in Wonderland,” Creating a Surreal Dreamscape.
Fashion never stands still. It is an ever-turning carousel of creativity, spinning seamlessly from one season to the next. Last autumn, the S/S womenswear collections of 2025 walked the stage, followed by the unveiling of menswear in mid-January. Now, the moment arrives to celebrate the craftsmanship and artistry of each house that diversifies creativity.
Haute Couture is a testament to artistry that transcends ready-to-wear. Every stitch is a fashion sanctuary that guides the fashion industry against the tides of fast-fashion whirlwinds. Renowned haute couture houses, including DIOR, VALENTINO, and GIORGIO ARMANI unveil collections that weave sartorial poetry and artistic narratives with contemplative and charming savoir-faire. This season, let us take you on a Parisian sojourn into the grandeur of S/S 2025 Haute Couture, where opulent brilliance meets artistry at the pinnacle of luxury.
As the industry’s ever-shifting winds settle, the spotlight turns to the upcoming runways of September and October, where a new era of creative direction debuts. The long-anticipated CHANEL succession, the female-led BOTTEGA VENETA renaissance, and MAISON MARGIELA’s transformative decade-defining transition are each poised to redefine the fashion landscape. Stay with us as we unravel the S/S 2026 fashion forecast!
The Show’s Backdrop Features a Mesmerizing Tableau of Motifs, Florals, and Organic Shapes, a Celebration of Feminine Strength with DIOR’s Couture Creations.
DIOR 歡迎來到夢幻春境
DIOR大秀的看頭從不只在服裝，更在緊密扣合系列之作的秀場選址與空間陳設上；近兩季作品如2025度假系列在蘇格蘭高地重構民族服飾、2025春夏女裝系列開秀以射箭印象體現力與美，皆是獨到巧思。
本季則由印度藝術家Rithika Merchant領銜工藝團隊，轉化其9件畫作為巨幅紡織布景，構築沉浸式環形秀場，將觀眾涵納於《愛麗絲夢遊仙境》的世界觀中；富含創世紀原始力量和超現實主義色彩的眼睛圖騰遍布各處，微妙搭建起「觀看」的雙向性，興許正呼應了Merchant構思時所言「眼睛幾乎是心靈的延伸」之深意，同時開展時尚訂製的藝術維度。
服裝重點解析
此次女裝創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri亦如入愛麗絲鏡中之境，以想像力跨越時尚歷史，重新演繹1952秋冬高訂系列迪奧先生所設計的La Cigale雕塑感禮服、汲取靈感自1958年時任創意總監聖羅蘭先生的Trapèze系列傘擺洋裝，並在形體與情感上變奏，打造連結傳統與現代、交融世故與童真的2025春夏高級訂製服。
Drawing from the Maison’s Archives, Ateliers Passes on the Legacy of Intricate Craftsmanship. Tailcoats Cinched at the Waist, Revisiting the Signature Lines of the La Cigale Gown, Paired with DIOR’s Emblematic Elegant Lace Dresses or Lantern Shorts.
全系列68套造型以黑白為始，裸膚色為過渡，偶有櫻粉、日金、湖藍等春意流瀉而出；花條搖曳的籠狀群撐和龐克風格的莫霍克髮型並存，彷彿訴說著女性可以如花朵般嬌柔，亦可以如飛鳥般自由。當對比元素共織童心未泯的優雅服裝，從細柔貼膚的蕾絲面料、歐根紗、流蘇、蝴蝶結墜飾，到廓型立體的羊腿袖、分層荷葉裙及外顯式緊身胸衣，都能見得Chiuri一貫剛柔並蓄的女性語言。然而相比過往卻更歸於赤子之心，似將「童裝」放大詮釋，甚至拆解拼貼了愛麗絲那一襲藍洋裝裡的歡樂與夢想。
DIOR: WELCOMING A SPRING DREAMSCAPE
At DIOR, the runway is more than a stage for garments, it is an immersive dialogue between collection, location, and spatial design. The recent 2025 Cruise collection reimagined Highland heritage in Scotland, while the S/S 2025 Haute Couture collection showcases the visual impression of archery, embodying both fierceness and grace in intricate detail.
This season, enchantment continues with Indian artist, Rithika Merchant, whose nine large-scale embroidered textile panels become mesmerizing runway murals, enveloping the audience in an Alice in Wonderland dreamscape. Rithika repeatedly uses surrealist eye motifs, rich in strength with primal mysticism, subliminally establishing a two-way gaze echoing her philosophy, “The eyes are kind of the window to the soul.” In this space, the artistic dimension of fashion converges.
RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS
Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri steps through the looking glass of DIOR heritage, weaving archival silhouettes into her imaginative reverie. The collection revisits the structured gown of Christian Dior’s A/W 1953 collection Profile Line, “La Cigale.” Inspired by Yves Saint-Laurent’s 1958 Trapèze line that rippled through A-line dresses, with a twist in emotions and silhouettes, conjuring a connection between modern and tradition, a childlike chic with a worldly sophistication in the S/S 2025 haute couture collection.
The 68-look collection unfolds in a monochrome palette, giving way to soft nudes, in cascading spring colors of cherry blossom pink, radiant gold, and blue lake. Caged skirts with trailing flowers swaying alongside the punk Mohawk hairstyle are expositions to the plurality of a delicate flower-woman or a bird-woman reaching for freedom in femininity. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s signature juxtaposition of power and softness is at play in contrasting elements from elegance and childhood attire: from diaphanous skin-soft lace, organza, fringe, dainty bow embellishments to sculptural leg-of-mutton sleeves, layered ruffles, and outerwear corsetry. This season, DIOR delves deeper into nostalgia, a magnified interpretation of childhood attire, as if Alice’s blue dress has been unstitched into a memory of joyful reverie.
Cage Skirts Adorned with Cascading, Branch-like Embellishments, Reminiscent of the Sun in an Interplay of Light as it Shimmers Along with the Breeze.
VALENTINO 藝術鬼才製衣做戲
為品牌效力25年之久，前總監Pierpaolo Piccioli的忠實信徒不計其數，「PP粉」、「PP黑」早已成為時尚教科書上不衰的用詞。而2024年設計鬼才Alessandro Michele入主，則再度為時裝屋繪滿斑斕色彩，翻寫全新篇章。
本季大秀有別於傳統T台走秀形式，更像在黑盒子劇場裡進行沉謐的服裝展演，「這是一次進入未完成多樣性的眩暈之旅。」2025春夏高訂系列作為Michele在VALENTINO呈現的首個高訂系列，題名「Vertigineux」，法語中意即頭暈目眩。他自述這種眩暈感源自各種「分類」的有限性與未完成性；同時其豐滿、狂熱又充滿戲劇性的藝術表達，使得觀者目眩神迷也確實一點沒錯。
Biographical Quilts, Cinematic Weaves, Chromatic Geometries, Philosophical Seams, and Historic Fabrics—48 Looks Form 48 Poetic Narratives, Each Numbered From 1 to 48, Imprinting VALENTINO’s Distinct Artistic Storytelling onto a Black Canvas.
服裝重點解析
人稱極繁主義大師，此次Michele便以「列舉」最末使用的「等等」的概念，展現自身對於創作本質不斷延展、持續堆疊且潛在無限的思索。48套禮服背後彷彿象徵著歌劇女伶們永駐的靈魂，不計其數的珍珠與水鑽融注於中式織花與和式剪裁，彰顯了Michele意念上的「繁」；各式配件如長手套、大澎裙（維多利亞時代裙撐）、鑲飾面具、流蘇斗篷、鮮豔的蕾絲褲襪乃至突出於肩外側的浮誇羽根，更為一套套整體造型注入神祕風采。
每一根線、每一縫合、每一抹色彩都轉化為超越可見界限的多重語言。
每件禮服不僅僅是一件物品，它更是意義之網的結點：一張承載視覺和象徵記憶的活地圖。它是一份敘事檔案，在這裡，不可能的組合找到了和諧，跨越時代的文化與過去的回聲在此交織，並與當下產生共鳴。
——Alessandro Michele
Drawing Inspiration from Italian Semiotician, Umberto Eco’s “The Infinity of Lists,” Alessandro Masterfully Layers Elements to Present Endless Reverie.
一場Alessandro Michele的「大戲」，始於喃喃人聲，終於忽明忽暗的詭譎燈光。在高訂時裝化趨勢下，Michele之作就好像在提醒著我們：這裡是訂製服的殿堂，是無與倫比的「非日常奢華」——你不會每天都能穿它，但它仍占你衣櫃無可取代的一席之位。
VALENTINO: THE SARTORIAL INTERPLAY OF A CREATIVE GENIUS
For 25 years, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s reign at VALENTINO cultivated an unwavering following, so much that “PP pink” and “PP black” became fixtures in the fashion lexicon. In 2024, creative talent Alessandro Michele ushered in a new era of opulence, infusing the Maison with his creative vision.
This season, the runway was more than a stage—it became a black box theatre for a quiet fashion spectacle, a space where Alessandro conjured a “vertigo journey into the unfinished.” His haute couture debut for VALENTINO was aptly titled Vertigineux—French for “dizzying.” He suggested the vertigo is the unfinished nature of any cataloguing within any finite, and at the same time a ravishing artistic expression of psychodrama in excess and reverie.
RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS
Renowned for his eccentric maximalism, Michele revels in a perpetual state of “etcetera” in his “list” of creation—garments in extending layers of contemplations that are not finite. Each of the 48 gowns embodied the spirit of an eternal opera diva, cascading in pearls and crystals over Chinese jacquards and Japanese tailoring, a testament to Michele’s flair for “flourish.” Long gloves, panniers, bejeweled masks, fringed capes, riotous lace stockings, and enormous peacock feathers extending beyond the shoulders transformed each look with a multitude of elements into a unified enigma of allure.
Every thread, every seam, every trace of colour transfigures into a multiplicity of words that transcend the boundaries of the visible.
Each dress is not just an object, it’s rather the knot of a net of significance: a living cartography that keeps traces of visual and symbolic memories. It’s a narrative archive where improbable combinations find harmony, recalls cross eras, cultures and echoes of past stories resonate with the present.
Alessandro Michele
Alessandro Michele’s couture is never just a collection; it is a mise-en-scène, a production that begins in whispers and ends with flickering lights. In the sanctuary of haute couture, Michele reminds us that opulence is not for everyday wear—yet its presence in the wardrobe remains undeniable.
GIORGIO ARMANI 異地風情溢彩流光
GIORGIO ARMANI高級訂製服系列ARMANI Privé浪漫而不失大氣，總因帶著幾分東方意蘊而令人心隨之蕩漾，與各地的漫漫春光相映。
創辦人亞曼尼先生去年度過90歲生日、並宣布預計3年內退休，由其執掌的系列作品可以說看一次少一次，本場大秀更承載著品牌高訂系列20週年的非凡意義。選址巴黎阿瑪尼宮（Palazzo Armani），圍繞著「Lumières」的核心主題，全系列93套造型捕捉並渲染了無形無跡的「光」元素，以品牌擅長的流暢剪裁，在一如既往的優雅性感中玩味出新意。
亞曼尼先生與眾模特留下珍貴合影，鐫刻品牌高訂系列20 週年的永恆座標。
A Photo of Mr. Armani and the Models for a Treasured Portrait, Marking a Timeless Milstone of the Maison’s 20th Haute Couture Anniversary.
服裝重點解析
2025春夏高訂大秀宛若真正的晚宴現場，高貴的禮服穿梭於中華豐富形態與色彩之間，襯著琴聲流淌出各色緞光，從米金漸變為灰褐，黑白交織間點綴著柔粉，時而迸發出紫紅、青銅與深藍的耀眼光澤。靈感取材打破洲際，波里尼西亞的風景如水彩般化作細膩的印花，日本的線性優雅、北非的莊重禮儀皆以輕若無物的光線筆觸盡顯。廓型方面，精緻的短版夾克、飄逸的長裙與寬鬆的男性化西裝，勾勒流動的線條與精準的結構；亮片、水晶和寶石在面料中悄然生長，每一件作品都飾以精緻的手工刺繡，最終匯聚成一幅繁複的拼貼藝術，致敬印度裝飾風格的瑰麗與豐盈。
抹胸和斜肩禮服帶著若隱若現的光反射，無領和深V套裝讓人聯想到中國瓷器紋樣和印度拼貼藝術。
Strapless and Asymmetric Shoulder Line Gowns Shimmered in an Elusive Glow, While Collarless Deep-V Suits Evoked the Motifs of Chinese porcelain and the Intricate Artistry of Indian Patchwork.
亞曼尼先生曾說，高級訂製讓他進入一個幻想與實驗的領域。謝幕時全場起立的掌聲，或許就是眾人對其畢生揮灑想像力與創造力最大的尊崇。
GIORGIO ARMANI: LUMINOUS COLORS OF FOREIGN FLAIRS
The romanticism and grandeur of GIORGIO ARMANI Haute Couture, ARMANI Privé whispers an enthralling Eastern demeanor that ushers in spring. As Mr. Giorgio Armani celebrated his 90th birthday last year, he alluded to retirement within the next three years, making each of his remaining collections a cherished masterpiece.
This season, the remarkable 20 years of Armani Privé Haute Couture returns to its Parisian home, Palazzo Armani, to unveil a collection under the theme of Lumières—a poetic celebration of light in its most intangible, fluid forms. It is an interplay of the Maison’s signature craftsmanship, where innovative expression meets elegant, sensuous tailoring.
RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS
A luminous soirée unfolds as we step into the S/S 2025 Armani Privé show. Elegant evening gowns, with a touch of Chinese tailoring influence, shimmer in weaved silken reflections of musical harmony. Champagne gold dissolves into taupe, black and white interlaced with soft blush, while bursts of imperial purple, burnished bronze, and deep sapphire blues infuse the collection with chromatic opulence. The inspiration spanned continents: Polynesian landscapes that disperse like watercolor into detailed prints, Japanese linear grace, and North African ceremonial splendor, all rendered with a painter’s delicate touch of light. Silhouettes whispered contrast and harmony: cropped jackets, fluid evening gowns, and relaxed, masculine pantsuits tailored with sleek precision. Sequins, crystals, and gemstone embellishments bloomed across sumptuous fabrics, each piece a tapestry of intricate embroidery that collages into a work of art, a homage to the opulent decorative arts of India.
For Mr. Giorgio Armani, haute couture has always been a laboratory of experimentation, a space for his fantasy to flourish and create his “clothes of dreams.” As the final look swept the runway, the audience rose in ovation to salute a man who has spent a lifetime pursuing imagination and creativity.
時尚圈大風吹落座？
Fashion’s Musical Chairs
從設計師履歷看2026春夏趨勢
OVERSEEING THE S/S 2026 TRENDS THROUGH CREATIVE DIRECTOR PROFILES
本季高訂系列負「承舊啟新」之任，在春夏、秋冬兩大季別間暫替品牌頂住了壓力。老將新星經歷這波換位戰後，勢必於2026春夏系列大展其才，以下預覽3個受矚品牌的嶄新氣象。
This season, haute couture is entrusted to take on the responsibility of reinventing and extending the heritage amidst the SS and FW runways. After the reappointment of creative directors and their successors, designers are to take full flight in the grand seasonal show of S/S 2026. Let us take the first look at three fashion houses poised for their transformation.
【CHANEL】創意新血注入百年經典
A NEW CHAPTER IN TIMELESS CLASSICS
「香奈兒大位由誰接掌？」是過去半年來業內備受關注的話題，諸多大師都被點名。如今，從買手、編輯到廣大時尚迷無不把目光匯聚在新任創意總監Matthieu Blazy身上。這位雕琢BOTTEGA VENETA極致工藝數年、賦予時裝更高藝術價值的年輕設計師，如何承襲老佛爺的香奈兒經典，與其弟子Virginie Viard五年來毀譽參半的流行化風格，同時渡入自己最為擅長的安靜奢華美學，將是2026春夏大秀焦點。
For months, the industry has been abuzz with one question: Who will take the reins at CHANEL? Speculations swirled with insiders naming master contenders. Now, from buyers, and editors, to fashionistas, the attention is all on Matthieu Blazy, the newly appointed creative director for the Maison. The focal point of S/S 2026 is on Matthieu Blazy, as he inherits Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy, followed by Virginie Viard’s five-year tenure, which drew both acclaim and critique for its commercial appeal. Over the years at BOTTEGA VENETA, the young creative visionary has refined his craft and elevated fashion with an artistic depth, revered for his mastery of quiet luxury. The attention is now on: How will Matthieu reimagine CHANEL in the S/S 2026 grand show.
【BOTTEGA VENETA】運動風尚加碼高級時裝
WHEN ATHLETICISM MEETS COUTURE
隨Matthieu Blazy於2024年末投下卸任震撼彈，BOTTEGA VENETA迎來了有「 救火隊」之稱的56歲女設計師。曾任CALVIN KLEIN女裝部門主管、JOSEPH創意總監，後又壯大LACOSTE有功、並為CARVEN救火的Louise Trotter，這回與其說救火，不如說被挖來「火上加油」——畢竟在Blazy掌門的短短3年間，早將BOTTEGA VENETA的綠焰燒了時尚圈一遍。然Trotter在LACOSTE帶起的運動風尚，或許就是那不可或缺的趣味調料，得以造就更童趣繽紛、層次豐富的系列作品。
With Matthieu Blazy’s departure at the close of 2024 sending the industry into commotion, BOTTEGA VENETA names 56-year-old Louise Trotter as the new Creative Director. Helmed as the “firefighter” who shaped CALVIN KLEIN as the head of womenswear, redefined JOSEPH as the creative director, revitalized LACOSTE with a fresh take, and rescue CARVEN, Louise Trotter is now “fanning the heat” to the green blaze of Matthieu’s three-year tenure. Louise’s mastery of the sportswear trend is perhaps seen most notably at LACOSTE which will continue to celebrate creative aesthetics with rich layers in vivid childlike hues.
【MAISON MARGIELA】同門學弟接掌未來可期
AN EXPECTED ALUMNUS SUCCESSOR
2024春夏高訂秀可謂John Galliano在MAISON MARGIELA造的最後一個癲狂的夢，無疑將品牌Artisanal高級訂製系列推向再一巔峰。而他的位置接下來將由DIESEL現任創意總監Glenn Martens接任。
這些年Y2K風潮席捲全球，DIESEL便在Martens的帶領下徹底翻盤，如黑馬般成為炙手可熱的Z世代愛牌。身為品牌創辦人Martin Margiela的學弟，Martens挾以安特衛普皇家藝術學院的頂尖學歷和一路上漂亮的時尚履歷，我們是否可以期待下一波大勢潮流不遠了？
John Galliano’s final dream at MAISON MARGIELA pushed the S/S 2024 Haute Couture Artisanal line to its pinnacle. The Maison now appoints Glenn Martens, the creative force behind DIESEL, as its successor.
Under the creative guidance of Glenn and the Y2K trend that stormed the fashion globe, DIESEL transformed into the most sought-after black horse and a Gen Z powerhouse. As an alumnus of Martin Margiela’s background institution at Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Glenn is a designer who has firmly established his name in the industry, poised to shape the next wave of avant-garde fashion.
【延伸閱讀】
發表迴響