每種寶石都猶如自成的小宇宙，紅寶石由內而外散發深邃的光芒，藍色藍寶曖曖火光高雅且神祕，黃鑽則明亮透亮靈動，綠寶內含物則猶如一個宇宙星系，每顆寶石都有其生命價值與美妙姿態。紅寶石由內而外散發深邃的光芒，藍色藍寶曖曖火光高雅且神祕，黃鑽則明亮透亮靈動，綠寶內含物則猶如一個宇宙星系，每顆寶石都有其生命價值與美妙姿態。大克拉的有色寶石要設計成為令人難忘的作品，必須在雕選寶石的眼光上、設計創意的表現形式上、對工藝技術的熟稔專精，以及探索寶石最原始之美的敏銳性，這幾個元素缺一不可的完美結合。一個打動人心的珠寶作品，除了所鑲嵌寶石本身的優劣，整件作品的靈感設計與所運用寶石之間的相互配合，所呈現的流暢和諧及完整性才是其巧妙與過人之處，就像一曲動人的阿卡貝拉，主音的優美還需要整體和諧的高低合音襯托。不同品牌在展現大寶石魅力的表現手法上，仔細推敲寶石本身的迷人特點之外，還會根據品牌的精神與風格量身適合的設計手稿。
Gemstones are the most magnificent treasures on earth, each of them shine in colors and held its own unique characteristics and attractiveness. As the time flows, the mysterious beauty of gemstones leave traces in the brilliant shines on timeless jewelry.
Every type of gemstone forms its own mini-universe. Ruby red burns like flames from the inside. Sapphire blue radiates with warmth and elegance. Yellow Topaz gleams with pellucid clarity. Emerald green holds a galaxy inside the stone. Each jewel holds its intrinsic value and exquisite beauty. For large carat colored jewels crafted into a piece of exceptional work, keen eyes in selecting gemstones, unique design with creativity, highly skilled stone cutting and crafting technique, and an acute sense in capturing the natural beauty of gemstones are all essential factors. A touching masterpiece, other than the quality of the crafted stones, the coordination of inspiration design and stones being used will also determine its quality. Display of smoothness, harmony, and completion are major factors affecting the quality. As in an “a cappella”, the vocal requires a harmonic blend in high and low pitches. Brands when showcasing large jewels, will first carefully scrutinize and brainstorm the charming points of the design and create an appropriate draft according to the core beliefs and styles of the brand.
盡現寶石原生之美
珠寶設計以大膽創意聞名的卡地亞，在全新Magnitude頂級珠寶系列中，推出了一系列運用各種原石的作品，其中一枚Yuma項鍊卡地亞透過黃色與褐色鑽石的細緻漸層，將黃鑽之美演繹為變化多端的陽光。一向擅長表現大克拉鑽寶之美的GRAFF格拉夫，在2019年秋冬頂級珠寶新品中，也沒少推出大克拉彩寶的作品，以其中一個鑲嵌重達58.48藍色藍寶石主石的項鍊為例，其藍寶上下以梨形與圓形的白鑽襯托，不僅突顯方形切割的主石本身的魅力，項鍊整體仍呈現出格拉夫珠寶設計的靈動性特色。梵克雅寶今年盛大推出的Treasure of Rubies系列，則是透過60款作品，方方面面展現了紅寶石的各種瑰麗美態。其中鑲嵌18.12克拉紅寶石的可轉換式項鍊與胸針作品，藉由鑲嵌大小錯落的鑽石、紅寶石、與粉紅色鑽石，凸顯這一單顆紅寶石傲人的淨度色澤，以及卓越的切割工藝，在不同的光線下還給予這一主紅寶石更豐富的色彩變化，其錯落的串串寶石令人聯想到叫人垂涎的莓果，亦符合梵克雅寶品牌結合大自然之美的設計風格。
The Natural Beauty Revealed In Jewels
Cartier, a renowned brand jewelry design, in its newest high jewelry collection Magnitude offers the necklace Yuma, crafted with various suffused exquisite gemstones. One of the necklaces, Yuma, captures the variations of the sun in a palette of diamonds ranging from golden yellow to brown.
Graff, a brand skilled in crafting large carat stones, as usual, released its high jewelry in large stones for the autumn and winter season of 2019. One of the 58.48 cr. blue sapphire as the main gem for a necklace as an example, the blue sapphire is decorated with oval cut white diamonds to attract attention to the beauty of the square cut of the main stone. The whole necklace reveals the fluidity characteristics of the Graff designs.
This year, Van Cleef & Arpels presents Treasure of Rubies collection through 60 different designs and showcased the elegant beauty of rubies from every aspect. A 18.12 cr. ruby can be crafted into a design of necklace and brooch. By mounting various small diamonds, rubies, and pink diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels created a design that magnifies the purity and tone of a single ruby with its extraordinary cutting technique. Under variations of sunlight, the strings of stones granted the main ruby a wider change in rich colors. The string design suggests a resemblance to delicious berries, and also in line with the style of Van Cleef & Arpels on interpreting natural beauty.
融入意象概念
以純粹的寶石美麗與線條美學相互搭襯創作出魅惑迷人的珠寶作品，是常見於珠寶設計的表現形式，但融入故事性或啟發自某一意象概念，進而凸顯寶石的瑰麗之處，也是常見的設計方向。擅長藉由精湛且準確的切割與設計凸顯寶石特質的品牌，少不了鑽石大王HARRY WINSTON海瑞溫斯頓，今年HARRY WINSTON的全新New York系列Cathedral項鍊和耳環則是藉由獨特的幾何構成，將紐約最大最華麗的著名聖派翠克大教堂的建築結構幻化為完美比例的項鍊與耳環，Cathedral項鍊鑲嵌了5顆切工卓越的水滴型祖母綠，祖母綠的選擇巧妙地點出了聖派翠克的主題，將這整個聖派翠克大教堂的形象串聯成一體，在優雅度上又仍維持海瑞溫斯頓一貫的簡約純淨美感；另一個City Lights 珠寶作品則是透過紅、綠、藍三色寶石演繹百老匯的璀璨華燈，這組作品最具巧思之處在於，寶石旁以馬眼形或圓形切割鑽石所鋪排圍繞的設計，將霓虹燈這一主題更襯托得色彩斑斕且光芒閃爍。
伯爵在今年度的Golden Oasis高級珠寶腕錶系列從沙漠中擷取靈感，將貴金屬與純淨寶石融入天馬行空的創意，伯爵藉由Play of Lights光之嬉戲、Desert Minerals漠地之泉及Native Bloom原生之花這三個原創主題，將大自然的沙漠壯麗之美微縮入珠寶設計之中。藍寶石成為了汩汩秘泉、白鑽黃鑽詮釋了烈陽下耀眼的光芒，祖母綠化作沙漠中難得綠意。在這組系列中，其中一枚Irresistible Attraction主題戒指，以流動的線條圍繞一顆枕形切割錳鋁石榴石，將漠地風沙流淌的動態魅力以介於抽象與具象的表現手法展露無遺。
Blended With Image Concept
It is not a rare practice that the beauty of pure gemstones and line aesthetics collaborate to create lustrous and attractive jewelry designs. Moreover, telling a story or inspiring a certain notion in design to enhance its elegance is nothing rare as well. When we think about brands that are skilled in technical and precise cutting to magnify the characteristics of gemstones, the King of Diamonds Harry Winston must be on the list. This year, Harry Winston’s newest designs in its New York Collection of Cathedral necklace and earrings are inspired by geometry mechanics. The necklace and earrings design crafted with the elements of the greatest and most elegant structure in New York – St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The Cathedral necklace is embedded with 5 brilliant pear cut emeralds. The selection of emerald wisely pointed out the theme of St. Patrick’s Cathedral and connected the image of the cathedral as a whole. For elegance, the design maintains the simple and pure aesthetics of Harry Winston’s work. City Lights jewelry design uses gemstones in the hues of red, green and blue to display the resplendence of Broadway. A highlight of this combined design is that one side of the stone is decorated with marquise or round cut diamonds that surround the main stone, which perfectly expressed the theme of neon lights at night.
Piaget Golden Oasis collection takes its inspiration from the desert this year. Precious metal and pure gemstones designs with excellent creativity showcased in the three original themes, which are “Play of Lights”, “Desert Minerals”. and “Native Bloom.” A miniature of the natural image of the great desert is crafted into the jewelry design. Blue sapphire refers to hidden spring, white and yellow diamonds refer to brilliant sunlight, and emerald refers to the rare green oasis in a desert. In this series, the ring with the theme of Irresistible Attraction uses lines to encircle a cushion cut spessartine. The design resembles the sand storm and its attractive movement in the desert to display its properties between the abstract and the concrete.
結合趣味創意
寶石的成色豐富多樣，給予了珠寶設計師馳騁想像的空間，從各式主題型態到結合創意趣味，都成為珠寶展演自身之美的表現形式。利用寶石本身的色澤樣貌詮釋有趣的創意主題，以伯爵的Limelight Cocktail系列或許最佔據人心令人過目難忘。伯爵以各式雞尾酒為靈感，利用寶石的特質打造一枚枚如雞尾酒的迷人指環。優容華貴的HARRY WINSTON海瑞溫斯頓今年則推出一系列Winston Candy戒指，同樣以充滿趣味的創意為人帶來驚喜。今年HARRY WINSTON選擇了成色淡雅又帶點糖果特質的碧璽、各色剛玉、弗萊石等有色寶石，大玩寶石的顏色組合，打造出一個晶透予人甜蜜Sweet的糖果世界，融化了不少內心都藏有一個十七八歲少女的女性們的心。
我們愛這些美麗的頂級珠寶，愛得不見得是其單顆鑽石有多大，或是閃光有多耀眼，而在於這些品牌是如何藉由設計創意結合卓越工藝，將一顆顆華美誘人的寶石串成一個個美麗的故事，也許是壯闊的自然景觀，也許是一段奇幻旅程，也許是午後的一場派對時光，將世上各個面向的美好被點石成詩，透入我們心裡。
A Combination Of Fascinating Creativity
Gemstones can be colorful and also provide a wide dimension to designers’ imagination. Combining creativity and fascination becomes one of the ways for jewelry to showcase its beauty. Using the gemstones’ color to express fascination and creativity is how Piaget leaves an unforgettable impression in the Limelight Cocktail series. Piaget was inspired by various cocktails and uses the characteristics of stones to create impressive rings with colors like cocktails. Elegant Harry Winston releases a collection known as Winston Candy with a fascinating surprise this year. Harry Winston selected pale and candy-like gemstones such as tourmaline, various corundum, tsavorite, etc. With different color combinations, Harry Winston created charming and sweet designs that capture the attention of many females with a youthful mind.
We love beautiful high jewelry. What we love is not how large or how brilliant their diamonds are, but how the brands combine their design with creativity and excellent craftsmanship. Beautiful gemstones are connected to strings of stories. Perhaps they describe the great natural environment, or an amusing adventure, or even party time in an afternoon. The greatest things in life are written into poems through the gemstones and remembered.